I always sharpen my own hooks but my new syndicate is covered in silk weed. The sharpened hooks are coming in black and rusted. Tried jag pens, the wax sticks and grease to no effect. There is also crays in the lake.
What are the sharpest chod style hooks out of the packet at the moment? I like a beaked point due to barbless rules.
Also a recommendation for sharpest wide gape style? Again beaked.
I'm currently using Korda wide gape and choddy in size 4's and have done for years.
Cheers
What are the sharpest chod style hooks out of the packet at the moment? I like a beaked point due to barbless rules.
Also a recommendation for sharpest wide gape style? Again beaked.
I'm currently using Korda wide gape and choddy in size 4's and have done for years.
Cheers
In reply to Post #1
Drennan continentals for me are one of the sharpest out of the pack ( and I've tried most ) although I still hand sharpen mine
Drennan continentals for me are one of the sharpest out of the pack ( and I've tried most ) although I still hand sharpen mine
In reply to Post #1
Chemical sharpening is much of a muchness imo. You'll find hooks with a longer/finer taper to the point or a thinner gauge that might appear sharper but in all honesty there's very little in it. Your Korda hooks are as sharp as any chemically sharpened hooks out of the packet imo.
Chemical sharpening is much of a muchness imo. You'll find hooks with a longer/finer taper to the point or a thinner gauge that might appear sharper but in all honesty there's very little in it. Your Korda hooks are as sharp as any chemically sharpened hooks out of the packet imo.
In reply to Post #1
I have some Korda Kamakura hooks that are razor sharp. However for me think they're too sharp as they're always coming back with their hook point bent. Reluctant to use them now as never quite sure if they're fishing properly or not.
I have some Korda Kamakura hooks that are razor sharp. However for me think they're too sharp as they're always coming back with their hook point bent. Reluctant to use them now as never quite sure if they're fishing properly or not.
In reply to Post #4
Same here, hook point turning over continually.
Same here, hook point turning over continually.
I used the kamakura and am convinced the point goes when it impacts the surface of the water ... or as it lands on lake bed. Very sharp but far to precious to have 100% faith in when your fishing .
I've used Atomic hooks for years and never had a problem .
I've used Atomic hooks for years and never had a problem .
In reply to Post #1
Atomic choddas are solid .
I just give them a touch with a file to suit my needs .
Atomic choddas are solid .
I just give them a touch with a file to suit my needs .
In reply to Post #1
Angling Iron for me 👍
Angling Iron for me 👍
Have to say for me J Precision are superb
In reply to Post #9
While the JP's and the Kamakura's are available off the shelf they're mechanically sharpened (JP's by hand and Kamakura's by machine) so they don't solve the OP's problem. He's looking for the sharpest chemically sharpened/coated hooks.
While the JP's and the Kamakura's are available off the shelf they're mechanically sharpened (JP's by hand and Kamakura's by machine) so they don't solve the OP's problem. He's looking for the sharpest chemically sharpened/coated hooks.
Why change from the Korda. I don't sharpen hooks since the introduction of the chemical sharpening process many years ago and I have been using Korda hooks for years with no problems. I do occasionally try new products but they are all much of a muchness.
I use Korda wide gape and choddies for all my carp fishing, except when freelining soft baits when I use Drennan super specialists. These are all quality hooks and extremely sharp straight out of the packet and they stay sharp in use.
I use Korda wide gape and choddies for all my carp fishing, except when freelining soft baits when I use Drennan super specialists. These are all quality hooks and extremely sharp straight out of the packet and they stay sharp in use.
ESP
In reply to Post #12
Agree. Always impressed with how sharp their cryogen range is.
Agree. Always impressed with how sharp their cryogen range is.
Angling iron, absolutely superb range of hooks, and vv sharp
In reply to Post #14
JP best hooks out of packet nash or esp
JP best hooks out of packet nash or esp
In reply to Post #14
Another one for Angling Iron their Anchor hooks are spot on 👍
Another one for Angling Iron their Anchor hooks are spot on 👍
Another
for the ESP cryogen range, very sharp hooks out of the packet.
In reply to Post #17
Esp for me too , loving the trigg and chod hammers sds ince their release , quality gear as always with esp 👍
Esp for me too , loving the trigg and chod hammers sds ince their release , quality gear as always with esp 👍
In reply to Post #13
Yes cryogen range are great
Yes cryogen range are great
In reply to Post #18
Id say these ones are sharp as anything ive ever used striaght from the packet. I dont know if the whole range of cryogen are as sharp though as i dont use them as much i love these hooks and i use atomic ones also. The esp are sharper becouse they are a very thin gauge but still plenty strong enough.
Id say these ones are sharp as anything ive ever used striaght from the packet. I dont know if the whole range of cryogen are as sharp though as i dont use them as much i love these hooks and i use atomic ones also. The esp are sharper becouse they are a very thin gauge but still plenty strong enough.
Sharp and strong then definitely Atomic Tackle,if you want sharp but turn over easily then the esp trighammer
In reply to Post #21
Gardner hooks are sharper than any esp hooks imo - had this discussion in a tackle shop not so long back, the chap behind the counter said the same esp till I did the finger ***** test - Gardner hook made me 🩸.
Gardner hooks are sharper than any esp hooks imo - had this discussion in a tackle shop not so long back, the chap behind the counter said the same esp till I did the finger ***** test - Gardner hook made me 🩸.
In reply to Post #22
Gamakatsu 17211's for me.
They are sharp out of the packet and hold their sharpness superbly.
Not easy to find however.
I brought a lifetimes supply back from Thailand a few years back.
Gamakatsu 17211's for me.
They are sharp out of the packet and hold their sharpness superbly.
Not easy to find however.
I brought a lifetimes supply back from Thailand a few years back.
I have never found hooks sharper out of the packet than the now long gone Ace razor hooks, I know that the Angli g Iron and carp spirit sell identical patterns to the ace hooks but they are not as sharp. I find the sharpest now are the Nash pinpoint hooks, but they are difficult to resharpen.
The rigworx X range sharpest out the packet by a mile!
So answer shows multiple brands so far...its one to there own!! But the good ones will need a finer touch! Esecially after one or two in the net 😉
In reply to Post #26
Especially (spelling mistake)
Especially (spelling mistake)
In reply to Post #24
Agree on the nash pin points top hooks
They don't rust like some others too
Agree on the nash pin points top hooks
They don't rust like some others too
In reply to Post #21
I agree. Alot of sharper Hooks but they all turn over after a fish in my experience. Atomic are sharp enough but you can tell they are more durable
I agree. Alot of sharper Hooks but they all turn over after a fish in my experience. Atomic are sharp enough but you can tell they are more durable
In reply to Post #30
Another vote for Angling Iron. Use to use the Ace Razorpoints before that.
Another vote for Angling Iron. Use to use the Ace Razorpoints before that.
In reply to Post #31
Bought some Chod hammers recently and was initially impressed but then on bedding down 25lb stiff link (Gardner) I opened a couple out. I do bed down and pull my knots very tight but even so, left me with little confidence in these hooks. Lovely sharp point but they are too fine for me and I'd definitely lose more confidence around weed and snags. If anyone wants a pack of size 5's please PM me, I was using gardener chods in 4's (awesome hooks btw, very strong and durable sharp points) but moving up to 25lb, it just wont go through the eye 3 times and I hate tying the whipping knot. so have recently purchased the Angling Irons in size 4 and 5, hoping they are the business. Thanks for the recommends in this post
Bought some Chod hammers recently and was initially impressed but then on bedding down 25lb stiff link (Gardner) I opened a couple out. I do bed down and pull my knots very tight but even so, left me with little confidence in these hooks. Lovely sharp point but they are too fine for me and I'd definitely lose more confidence around weed and snags. If anyone wants a pack of size 5's please PM me, I was using gardener chods in 4's (awesome hooks btw, very strong and durable sharp points) but moving up to 25lb, it just wont go through the eye 3 times and I hate tying the whipping knot. so have recently purchased the Angling Irons in size 4 and 5, hoping they are the business. Thanks for the recommends in this post
In reply to Post #32
Big chod hammer fan here. I've not experienced any issues with them opening up or letting me down (to date!) and are by far the sharpest hooks I've seen out of the packet. Angling Iron hooks are also good out of the packet, their curves in particular
Big chod hammer fan here. I've not experienced any issues with them opening up or letting me down (to date!) and are by far the sharpest hooks I've seen out of the packet. Angling Iron hooks are also good out of the packet, their curves in particular
In reply to Post #33
Same, use them a lot and I've purposely stressed them to the point they start to open which takes far more force than you could apply when fishing and they spring back to shape.
Same, use them a lot and I've purposely stressed them to the point they start to open which takes far more force than you could apply when fishing and they spring back to shape.
In reply to Post #32
Yeah, had the same with trig hammers when making combi's with fluo and braid. You have to pull a bit to get those in order, but all in all i was looking at deformed hooks with a force under 25lbs. Otherwise great hooks
)))
Yeah, had the same with trig hammers when making combi's with fluo and braid. You have to pull a bit to get those in order, but all in all i was looking at deformed hooks with a force under 25lbs. Otherwise great hooks
In reply to Post #35
I dont think you will ever put that much pressure on the hook with a hooked fish
I dont think you will ever put that much pressure on the hook with a hooked fish
In reply to Post #36
Me neither, but i do have to tighten my knots somehow. With a braid i think its's fine but with an albright i would like my knot not to slip.
Me neither, but i do have to tighten my knots somehow. With a braid i think its's fine but with an albright i would like my knot not to slip.
Carp R US or Gardner for me.
Now I'm a lazy bugger and sharpen and.reuse hooks (have done since a kid as I fished a gravel pit which I cut my teeth on) and have a set of hook markers that give me 12 hours of use in water without rust.
Now I'm a lazy bugger and sharpen and.reuse hooks (have done since a kid as I fished a gravel pit which I cut my teeth on) and have a set of hook markers that give me 12 hours of use in water without rust.
In reply to Post #38
Nash fang or J precision both mega sharp straight from packet
Nash fang or J precision both mega sharp straight from packet
might not be the sharpest,but muggas never let me down
I think it's hard to find hooks which aren't sharp these days, the quality from the likes of ESP and Gardner, along with some of the others - is really very high.
So long as you always check sharpness before casting, and take care of the hooks, so long as the pattern is correct for the rig - I don't think sharpness is something to stress too much about.
So long as you always check sharpness before casting, and take care of the hooks, so long as the pattern is correct for the rig - I don't think sharpness is something to stress too much about.
In reply to Post #36
I agree, no chance. Stretch in the mono, lunges absorbed by the rod and a small degree of flex in the hook maybe
I agree, no chance. Stretch in the mono, lunges absorbed by the rod and a small degree of flex in the hook maybe
In reply to Post #1
I started using the Ridgemonkey Apex hooks last year and I'm a big fan of them.
Strong, sharp and nice patterns too.
I started using the Ridgemonkey Apex hooks last year and I'm a big fan of them.
Strong, sharp and nice patterns too.
In reply to Post #43
I find Gardner hooks pretty sharp . 👍
I find Gardner hooks pretty sharp . 👍
Normally use nash pin points but got some rigmorale to try out and super impressed with how sharp and strong they are
In reply to Post #45
Jason Hayward own brand
Jason Hayward own brand
In reply to Post #42
Who is talking about playing a fish on it? They bend out of shape by simply securing a knot. But if slipping knots and/or deformed hooks are your thing, hf.
Who is talking about playing a fish on it? They bend out of shape by simply securing a knot. But if slipping knots and/or deformed hooks are your thing, hf.
In reply to Post #44
I find that I hook myself on Gardner Talon every time I bait up.
I find that I hook myself on Gardner Talon every time I bait up.
In reply to Post #47
How the heck do you bend a hook out of shape tightening a knot?
I'm honestly trying to think of any scenario where you would be stupid enough to grab an hook in forceps beyond the hookshank bend.
I have tied loads of types of knot to my hooks, Domhoff, Knotless knot, Uni or Grinner, Blood knot or Palomar, and I don't think that I have ever bent a hook out. If I tie combi-rigs, braid to fluoro or mono I can still tighten the hooklink materials together without straightening an hook.
If I tie a D-rig in fluoro or mono, and either tie that to a swivel or other knot to another material, still don't straighten the hook.
Out of the packet the sharpest hooks I've found that are still available are Gardner Muggas, Solar 101's.
How the heck do you bend a hook out of shape tightening a knot?
I'm honestly trying to think of any scenario where you would be stupid enough to grab an hook in forceps beyond the hookshank bend.
I have tied loads of types of knot to my hooks, Domhoff, Knotless knot, Uni or Grinner, Blood knot or Palomar, and I don't think that I have ever bent a hook out. If I tie combi-rigs, braid to fluoro or mono I can still tighten the hooklink materials together without straightening an hook.
If I tie a D-rig in fluoro or mono, and either tie that to a swivel or other knot to another material, still don't straighten the hook.
Out of the packet the sharpest hooks I've found that are still available are Gardner Muggas, Solar 101's.
The ESP Claw Hammers are the sharpest I have come across - far sharper than the Gardner Talon tips and ESP Grippers I used previously or the Muggas I use for other rigs.
The points seem fairly durable too, I've used them on several sessions this year and haven't had any points turn over in general use, where they have gone over with a fish it has been the very tip of the point and can be corrected with a quick brush of a file.
The points seem fairly durable too, I've used them on several sessions this year and haven't had any points turn over in general use, where they have gone over with a fish it has been the very tip of the point and can be corrected with a quick brush of a file.
In reply to Post #1
Muggas - always pass the nail test
Muggas - always pass the nail test
In reply to Post #47
Exactly as Nick has said below, if you're 'testing' a hook or knot to the point that the hook deforms then you're doing something very wrong
Exactly as Nick has said below, if you're 'testing' a hook or knot to the point that the hook deforms then you're doing something very wrong
In reply to Post #49
Stupid? I see:P
I have here incizors, fangs and trig hammer. I make a combi link and join line with an albright. I don't want slipping knots so i grab 2 pull tools and tighten up. The fang is oblivious to the power, the incizor flexxes but comes back into shape, the trig hammer flexxes and doesn't fully come back to its shape. It is an extremely fragile hook.
As you might have seen my original comment was directed at somebody experiencing the same. The same has been said by quite a lot on this very forum. I guess they too are all stupid.
Now you could discuss why that happens (gauge and shape), what are the ways around it (there are, but too much fuss for me) and under which conditions such fragile, yet sharp, hooks are not a problem. But you prefer to flat out deny user experience and resort to calling people stupid, assuming everybody is pulling on the hookpoint to the point of breaking the hooklink.
To finish off, because come on man, esp on their latest hooks have increased the wire gauge on certain sizes, but i guess that's stupidity as well
Stupid? I see:P
I have here incizors, fangs and trig hammer. I make a combi link and join line with an albright. I don't want slipping knots so i grab 2 pull tools and tighten up. The fang is oblivious to the power, the incizor flexxes but comes back into shape, the trig hammer flexxes and doesn't fully come back to its shape. It is an extremely fragile hook.
As you might have seen my original comment was directed at somebody experiencing the same. The same has been said by quite a lot on this very forum. I guess they too are all stupid.
Now you could discuss why that happens (gauge and shape), what are the ways around it (there are, but too much fuss for me) and under which conditions such fragile, yet sharp, hooks are not a problem. But you prefer to flat out deny user experience and resort to calling people stupid, assuming everybody is pulling on the hookpoint to the point of breaking the hooklink.
To finish off, because come on man, esp on their latest hooks have increased the wire gauge on certain sizes, but i guess that's stupidity as well
I got no dog in this fight, so to speak,
but,, take a length of kryston ton-up, or similar and thread it through the eye of your chosen hook,and double it back on itself, now tie a simple overhand knot and the same in other end minus the hook, now place the hook into a strong fixture the size of your knot pulling tool, and then simply keep adding weights until something breaks, try it with a wide choice of hooks of differing makes and styles, I did this to find a hook suitable for big catfish, but added a few carp hooks in the mix, quite a few surprised me in their strength, and gave me confidence to use them in my carp fishing scenarios, a couple even made it into catfish rigs.
I won't show my findings, if you do it for yourself you will see the obvious winners.
I don't advocate "winching" fish in on mega strong gear, and the resulting mouth damage, but in balance I don't wan't to lose them to inferior tackle either.
but,, take a length of kryston ton-up, or similar and thread it through the eye of your chosen hook,and double it back on itself, now tie a simple overhand knot and the same in other end minus the hook, now place the hook into a strong fixture the size of your knot pulling tool, and then simply keep adding weights until something breaks, try it with a wide choice of hooks of differing makes and styles, I did this to find a hook suitable for big catfish, but added a few carp hooks in the mix, quite a few surprised me in their strength, and gave me confidence to use them in my carp fishing scenarios, a couple even made it into catfish rigs.
I won't show my findings, if you do it for yourself you will see the obvious winners.
I don't advocate "winching" fish in on mega strong gear, and the resulting mouth damage, but in balance I don't wan't to lose them to inferior tackle either.
In reply to Post #53
I don't want slipping knots, but I still don't deform a hook pulling a combi-rig knot tight with Amnesia to braid.
I 'tease' my knots down, wet, I don't force them. Pulling on a hook beyond the bend towards the point is going to open it out, that is the force of pressure, it's physics.
As a result I 'test' the knot with the hook in the eye of my forceps or chain loop on my Swiss Army Knife. The natural spot that it goes onto is the bend of the hook.
I've tested various hooks over the years, I know which patterns I use can be used in weedy or snaggy waters and which can't. I use plenty of B175's in clear water for pop-up rigs. I would not even think of using them near weed, they open out, even though they are very sharp straight out of the pack.
I'm thinking my way through my tackle box and rig bins, what hooks I have left and what are ready tied, it's down to these aforementioned Solar 101's and Gardner Muggas in size 4 and 6.
The Kamasan B175's are saved specifically for clear waters.
Annoyingly my other favoured hooks don't seem to be available anymore in the UK, the VMC 7023 and 7021's. If anyone finds any...
Boy did they hold their points, and very strong.
I don't want slipping knots, but I still don't deform a hook pulling a combi-rig knot tight with Amnesia to braid.
I 'tease' my knots down, wet, I don't force them. Pulling on a hook beyond the bend towards the point is going to open it out, that is the force of pressure, it's physics.
As a result I 'test' the knot with the hook in the eye of my forceps or chain loop on my Swiss Army Knife. The natural spot that it goes onto is the bend of the hook.
I've tested various hooks over the years, I know which patterns I use can be used in weedy or snaggy waters and which can't. I use plenty of B175's in clear water for pop-up rigs. I would not even think of using them near weed, they open out, even though they are very sharp straight out of the pack.
I'm thinking my way through my tackle box and rig bins, what hooks I have left and what are ready tied, it's down to these aforementioned Solar 101's and Gardner Muggas in size 4 and 6.
The Kamasan B175's are saved specifically for clear waters.
Annoyingly my other favoured hooks don't seem to be available anymore in the UK, the VMC 7023 and 7021's. If anyone finds any...
Boy did they hold their points, and very strong.
In reply to Post #55
I think we are getting somewhere, i too fished many years with the kamasan, and that's also (especially to today's standards) a fragile hook. But the bend in that one is different, less prone to deforming.
Look, i've been at this for more than 40 years, i can put on a size 18 blindfolded so to speak. I'm just sharing my experience and even give a comparison between several hooks and how they respond to tightening. I was pretty disappointed with the trig hammer, because with wetting and bedding it down, and exerting the same force it deforms where others don't. If you look at the pattern you can see why that happens, and a thicker wire gauge could solve that. I also found out that grabbing the shank with pliers is a way around it, and i'm sure in open water clipped into one of those esp ronnie clips it's one hell of a hook (or hooker, cause i love that shape). But comparatively spoken and looking at the waters i fish it's too delicate for me.
I'm done bitching btw, and wish you a merry christmas and good fishes and all that
I think we are getting somewhere, i too fished many years with the kamasan, and that's also (especially to today's standards) a fragile hook. But the bend in that one is different, less prone to deforming.
Look, i've been at this for more than 40 years, i can put on a size 18 blindfolded so to speak. I'm just sharing my experience and even give a comparison between several hooks and how they respond to tightening. I was pretty disappointed with the trig hammer, because with wetting and bedding it down, and exerting the same force it deforms where others don't. If you look at the pattern you can see why that happens, and a thicker wire gauge could solve that. I also found out that grabbing the shank with pliers is a way around it, and i'm sure in open water clipped into one of those esp ronnie clips it's one hell of a hook (or hooker, cause i love that shape). But comparatively spoken and looking at the waters i fish it's too delicate for me.
I'm done bitching btw, and wish you a merry christmas and good fishes and all that
In reply to Post #33
I love the chod hammers. And now back to a straight point ,seem to bury better. I actually like the fact they are a finer gauge, sometimes hook needs replacing after a a fish, depending on where its been I hooked in mouth but super sharp Hooks. No lost fish yet. Should note using a multi hinge, so I don't actually ever put any pressure on the hook when making the rig
I love the chod hammers. And now back to a straight point ,seem to bury better. I actually like the fact they are a finer gauge, sometimes hook needs replacing after a a fish, depending on where its been I hooked in mouth but super sharp Hooks. No lost fish yet. Should note using a multi hinge, so I don't actually ever put any pressure on the hook when making the rig
Hi all,
Just to be clear i was using size 5 trig hammers, tying chod rigs with Gardner 25lb stiff link. If you've used that material, its very thick more like 30lb bristle and it takes a lot to bed down a 2 turn blood knot fully on it. I recently saw a video where they only used a 1 turn for it so that may have solved this issue for me. I fully agree that, the pressure i had to use probably isn't a realistic amount that will be applied during a fish fight. I'm grateful this happened as it made me find angling iron hooks and I am much happier with these anyway, feel more robust and nearly if not, as sharp. They were kind enough to send me a sample of their curves as well, and potentially could end up swapping out my dear Muggas in future. All in all, think the trigs and chod hammers fine, just prefer the extra confidence of my new hooks in case i really have to hit and hold.
Just to be clear i was using size 5 trig hammers, tying chod rigs with Gardner 25lb stiff link. If you've used that material, its very thick more like 30lb bristle and it takes a lot to bed down a 2 turn blood knot fully on it. I recently saw a video where they only used a 1 turn for it so that may have solved this issue for me. I fully agree that, the pressure i had to use probably isn't a realistic amount that will be applied during a fish fight. I'm grateful this happened as it made me find angling iron hooks and I am much happier with these anyway, feel more robust and nearly if not, as sharp. They were kind enough to send me a sample of their curves as well, and potentially could end up swapping out my dear Muggas in future. All in all, think the trigs and chod hammers fine, just prefer the extra confidence of my new hooks in case i really have to hit and hold.
In reply to Post #55
VMC available here,
https://www.protackleshop.co.uk/en5/vmc-hooks-7021-short-shank-specimen/s/140
https://www.protackleshop.co.uk/en5/vmc-hooks-7023-long-straight-shank/s/144
VMC available here,
https://www.protackleshop.co.uk/en5/vmc-hooks-7021-short-shank-specimen/s/140
https://www.protackleshop.co.uk/en5/vmc-hooks-7023-long-straight-shank/s/144
In reply to Post #59
carpers essentials elite hooks sharpest ive used in 40 years off fishing
carpers essentials elite hooks sharpest ive used in 40 years off fishing
In reply to Post #17
I agree. The Trig hammers are amazing
I agree. The Trig hammers are amazing
Looking to try some Medium curve shank hooks next, toss up between ridgemonkey and carp spirit razors, anyone got any opinions on these?
Ideally looking for something aggressive enough to not need to worry about kickers or shrink
Cheers
Ideally looking for something aggressive enough to not need to worry about kickers or shrink
Cheers
In reply to Post #62
Never used ridgemonkey, but I can vouch for the carp spirit, razor sharp out the packet, point will bur over on a fish, so wouldn't use them on a runs water, you'll go through packets.
Never used ridgemonkey, but I can vouch for the carp spirit, razor sharp out the packet, point will bur over on a fish, so wouldn't use them on a runs water, you'll go through packets.
In reply to Post #62
The RM hooks are very good
The RM hooks are very good
In reply to Post #64
Would you say the need kickers or anything? The shape on both I mentioned look like they'd be fine without?
Would you say the need kickers or anything? The shape on both I mentioned look like they'd be fine without?
In reply to Post #65
I dont use one and hookholds are good
I dont use one and hookholds are good
In reply to Post #61
The esp hammer range are great. Using chod hammers on hinge rig. No losses yet, mega sharp, affordable to change Hooks if they burr
The esp hammer range are great. Using chod hammers on hinge rig. No losses yet, mega sharp, affordable to change Hooks if they burr
In reply to Post #67
Not a mention of fox hooks-really like these.
Not a mention of fox hooks-really like these.
In reply to Post #68
Not used the latest offerings from Fox but used to like the Arma points
Not used the latest offerings from Fox but used to like the Arma points
In reply to Post #62
Carp Spirit and Esp Trighammers are excellent
Carp Spirit and Esp Trighammers are excellent
In reply to Post #38
Bend like a goodn would rather use Drennan super specialist hooks
Bend like a goodn would rather use Drennan super specialist hooks
If. It's pure sharpness out of the packet then I don't think anything comes near a kamakura- but in my opinion that doesn't make it the right hook. They turn over super easy and are the only hooks that I can't sharpen either any more when new or revive after use. They are one fish looks and because I use barbless I honestly think they are too sharpe on some occasions.
You then look at the runners and riders and most modern hooks are pretty good, but remember they are made and shipped in huge quantities so even at a low percentage rate you are going to find the odd one that is crap.
I prefer to start with a cheaper standard hook and sharpen them - then buff up with a GOM. Out the packet I would use the smallest hook size I can get away with, on the finest wire, from esp, korda, carp spirit(old ace hooks) or fox - you can't go far wrong on these
You then look at the runners and riders and most modern hooks are pretty good, but remember they are made and shipped in huge quantities so even at a low percentage rate you are going to find the odd one that is crap.
I prefer to start with a cheaper standard hook and sharpen them - then buff up with a GOM. Out the packet I would use the smallest hook size I can get away with, on the finest wire, from esp, korda, carp spirit(old ace hooks) or fox - you can't go far wrong on these
Hi all, I popped to AD today to look at all the medium curves that I could. In case its useful to anyone else looking. The foxes, points just weren't sharp enough for me, the ridgemonkeys were excellent out of the pack however the 4s look really big. I noticed korda have just brought a new hook out called "spinner" and these again are medium curve styles, not a huge korda fan but the hooks looked decent and were pretty sharp and they do 5s and 7s
I decided to research some more and by chance came across IB hooks, they do a hook they call a 360 curve. Upon some investigation I'm pretty certain this is the exact same hook as the razor point medium curve and also same hooks that angling iron sell.
Have ordered the 4s and 6s to give them a go.
I also took another look at some trighammers I bought a couple of years ago and I actually think I like the look of these the most, but I've seen a few accounts of them opening out a little so haven't got the confidence to use on my water. Every fish there is one I can't risk anything on.
After all this, I've a funny feeling I'm gonna be reverting back to muggas as I have such confidence in them once they're in, can't recall losing a fish on them just wanted a slightly longer shank curve for bottom bait slip ds. My dream hook would be a medium shank mugga, might plead with gardner to make one as they have that gap in their hook range now
I decided to research some more and by chance came across IB hooks, they do a hook they call a 360 curve. Upon some investigation I'm pretty certain this is the exact same hook as the razor point medium curve and also same hooks that angling iron sell.
Have ordered the 4s and 6s to give them a go.
I also took another look at some trighammers I bought a couple of years ago and I actually think I like the look of these the most, but I've seen a few accounts of them opening out a little so haven't got the confidence to use on my water. Every fish there is one I can't risk anything on.
After all this, I've a funny feeling I'm gonna be reverting back to muggas as I have such confidence in them once they're in, can't recall losing a fish on them just wanted a slightly longer shank curve for bottom bait slip ds. My dream hook would be a medium shank mugga, might plead with gardner to make one as they have that gap in their hook range now
In reply to Post #73
J precision longshank curve in size 6, amazing hooks 👍 just what you are looking for
J precision longshank curve in size 6, amazing hooks 👍 just what you are looking for
After using kamakura for a few years, I've had to move to a non sharpened hook that will hold a point longer and everything feels blunt to me, I've been through a lot of hooks, and the ESP trighammers are the best I've found, they're the only thing I've used recently that I would consider sharp.
I honestly think since the fad with sharpening your hooks and the jag kits came out the quality on mass produced hooks have seriously gone down hill.
I very rarely use anything apart from j Precision R Curves now which are super sharp
I very rarely use anything apart from j Precision R Curves now which are super sharp
In reply to Post #75
I love the trigs for spinners and D rigs but I've been using the claw hammers from ESP and boy they are sharp.
Also the Carp Spirit medium curves are also super sharp.
I love the trigs for spinners and D rigs but I've been using the claw hammers from ESP and boy they are sharp.
Also the Carp Spirit medium curves are also super sharp.
I think the korda kamakura hooks are the sharpest out of the packet but are easily blunted. I will second muggas they are my go to hook
In reply to Post #29
yep agree, just started using the CLAW ...sickly SHARP!
yep agree, just started using the CLAW ...sickly SHARP!
Picked up some slammers size 4 today, my plan is to create a trighammer length and shape but have the extra strength for shorter shank hook. Sharp but few others I've tried lately are definitely sharper. I know there's a lot of die hard ESP fans here bit personally think they messed up with wire gauges lately, the thicker wire on the 4s and 5s isn't really necessary on short shank.hooks like these and they could have been sharper. In an ideal world they'd have used the extra gauge on the trigs and kept the short shanks the same.
I'll likely keep, but may become my snag hooks in all honesty. Still lovely hooks
Probably stick with angling iron or ridgemonkeys now
I'll likely keep, but may become my snag hooks in all honesty. Still lovely hooks
Probably stick with angling iron or ridgemonkeys now
Just looking back in a couple of rig/tackle wallets, must be about 40 packs of hooks! Hooks must be the biggest item hoarded by a carper 😄
Size 4-10's, Muggas, Fox SSC, Trighammers, Clawhammers, Big T's, Raptor D7's, IB hooks, Cryogens, ESP Curve Shanx.
Not buying any more for at least 2yrs, they are all sharp and would all catch a bloody fish 🙄
Size 4-10's, Muggas, Fox SSC, Trighammers, Clawhammers, Big T's, Raptor D7's, IB hooks, Cryogens, ESP Curve Shanx.
Not buying any more for at least 2yrs, they are all sharp and would all catch a bloody fish 🙄
In reply to Post #75
There is nothing like the kamkura for sharpness, imagine if the could be that sharp and not have the points turn over, one day they will find a material that stays sharp and strong.i definitely get more runs but bring in too many blunt hooks 🙁
There is nothing like the kamkura for sharpness, imagine if the could be that sharp and not have the points turn over, one day they will find a material that stays sharp and strong.i definitely get more runs but bring in too many blunt hooks 🙁
In reply to Post #74
if they are sharpened, straight out of the packet not very sharp though..
if they are sharpened, straight out of the packet not very sharp though..
In reply to Post #1
Trig hammers are sharp but go careful they bend quite easy. I will only use the 4s now, had a few 5s open and won't even touch the 6. I was a big fan of ESP hooks for years but find myself using Korda wide gapes and choddys more and more these days. I don't like these needle sharp straight points I find they can cut and slide about during a heavy battle. The thicker and curved points seat better once they go in
Trig hammers are sharp but go careful they bend quite easy. I will only use the 4s now, had a few 5s open and won't even touch the 6. I was a big fan of ESP hooks for years but find myself using Korda wide gapes and choddys more and more these days. I don't like these needle sharp straight points I find they can cut and slide about during a heavy battle. The thicker and curved points seat better once they go in
In reply to Post #84
I've just bought a bulk pack of these. Look like what I've been looking for.
I've just bought a bulk pack of these. Look like what I've been looking for.
In reply to Post #86
Superb hooks
Superb hooks
In reply to Post #84
wish I had seen this before going to Johnson Ross earlier..
just checked,they weren't in stock.anyway..🙂
wish I had seen this before going to Johnson Ross earlier..
just checked,they weren't in stock.anyway..🙂
In reply to Post #84
Just had fish up to 50lb in France on these.....it's the only longer shank hook I've found with a wider gape on them.
Just had fish up to 50lb in France on these.....it's the only longer shank hook I've found with a wider gape on them.
In reply to Post #89
Fox do a wide long shank now. Havent used them myself but all their other hooks have been spot on and with. A heavy gauge wire.
Ive always thought hooks opening up is effected by where the fish is hooked and how far the hook penetrates. Maybe length of rig is as big an issue as the hook themselves
Fox do a wide long shank now. Havent used them myself but all their other hooks have been spot on and with. A heavy gauge wire.
Ive always thought hooks opening up is effected by where the fish is hooked and how far the hook penetrates. Maybe length of rig is as big an issue as the hook themselves
There hand sharpened but the best hooks I've used are the j precision advanced hooks. Same price as normal hooks as well.
Muggas that are hand sharpened by Jason Heywood
Sharpest I've ever used
Sharpest I've ever used
In reply to Post #84
Are the medium apex curve bigger hooks over the normal apex curve
Are the medium apex curve bigger hooks over the normal apex curve
In reply to Post #91
As long as you make sure you get the sharpened ones the hooks that aren't sharpen don't seem to be very sharp at all... I love the shape of their hooks, but the unsharpened, I can lift a 5oz lead without getting scared.
As long as you make sure you get the sharpened ones the hooks that aren't sharpen don't seem to be very sharp at all... I love the shape of their hooks, but the unsharpened, I can lift a 5oz lead without getting scared.
I personally use Kamakura hooks but I do as a matter of course change the hook after every fish.... yes that is costly in the long run but 50p per fish is nothing compared to what we spend on everything else
This has certainly improved my catch rate
This has certainly improved my catch rate
In reply to Post #95
Certainly cheaper than everytime you drop a lead
Certainly cheaper than everytime you drop a lead
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