Seeing people talking about Fluro in weed ? Isn't this a bad thing to have a heavy line bedded into weed ? 
In reply to Post #1
It wouldn't be my choice in heavy weed. I would rather have something of neutral buoyancy to lay on top of the weed instead of sinking into it.
It wouldn't be my choice in heavy weed. I would rather have something of neutral buoyancy to lay on top of the weed instead of sinking into it.
GR60 in 15lb. In fact, I'll never use anything else as long as they keep making it. Strong and reliable is all I care about.
In reply to Post #3
At 0.39 it should be strong.
At 0.39 it should be strong.
In reply to Post #2
Flouro doesn't sink into heavy weed, like a thick bed of Canadian, it will sit on top of it much line any mono. It's not so heavy that it'll push its way down into heavy weed. That's just one of those things that someone said and everyone just accepts without actually checking for themselves.
Flouro doesn't sink into heavy weed, like a thick bed of Canadian, it will sit on top of it much line any mono. It's not so heavy that it'll push its way down into heavy weed. That's just one of those things that someone said and everyone just accepts without actually checking for themselves.
In reply to Post #3
Exactly that
Exactly that
In reply to Post #3
It's tow rope. It should be strong.
It's tow rope. It should be strong.
In reply to Post #7
And that's a problem because?
And that's a problem because?
In reply to Post #8
I used Fox Exocet in 21lb. Got to be one of the best I have used in weed.
Thanks
Brent
I used Fox Exocet in 21lb. Got to be one of the best I have used in weed.
Thanks
Brent
In reply to Post #8
Not a problem unless you have to cast a long way, or as in my club there is a max dia limit of 0.37mm. I used to use it. Can't anymore.
Not a problem unless you have to cast a long way, or as in my club there is a max dia limit of 0.37mm. I used to use it. Can't anymore.
In reply to Post #10
It's a very thick line for the rating Gardner give it, ie 15lb is 0.39 and for that diameter it's nothing special strength wise but does have good abrasion resistance.
It's a very thick line for the rating Gardner give it, ie 15lb is 0.39 and for that diameter it's nothing special strength wise but does have good abrasion resistance.
I didn't say it was anything special. I said it was strong (probably due to the diameter) and reliable (abrasive resistance, consistent strength etc), both of which I would argue are the most important properties of a main line when fishing in weed. The original question doesn't indicate suggestions for a mainline for casting long distances or for use on fishing lakes with silly rules such as max line diameter (just use the 12 lb version).
In reply to Post #10
A max limit on line diameter? That's a new one on me. Seems an odd rule Tbh unless it's a completely weed and snag free bowl which I'm guessing it's not by the thread title ? . Any idea why they have that in place? Agree it doesn't cast as well as many, I can't cast far anyway these days with a knackered shoulder so it's no bother lol
A max limit on line diameter? That's a new one on me. Seems an odd rule Tbh unless it's a completely weed and snag free bowl which I'm guessing it's not by the thread title ? . Any idea why they have that in place? Agree it doesn't cast as well as many, I can't cast far anyway these days with a knackered shoulder so it's no bother lol
In reply to Post #13
Stupid club rules. A worthy thread title on it's own.
Stupid club rules. A worthy thread title on it's own.
In reply to Post #12
I didn't say it was anything special. I said it was strong (probably due to the diameter) and reliable (abrasive resistance, consistent strength etc), both of which I would argue are the most important properties of a main line when fishing in weed. The original question doesn't indicate suggestions for a mainline for casting long distances or for use on fishing lakes with silly rules such as max line diameter (just use the 12 lb version)
I find the line ratings of a lot of lines a complete joke exactly because of your bracketed point.
A 15lb line should be 0.35mm, 18lb 0.38mm, and 20lb 0.40mm.
I know a few years ago there was a big hoohar in the tackle industry about breaking strains vs diameter. It does make comparing lines for specific purposes quite difficult when you are mixing diameters as thicker lines should be better in weed and snags for abrasion resistance, and thinner lines for casting.
I know Tackle Box do their line tests but they miss abrasion resistance as a test, however they do give a recommendation on lines they would use in weed.
tacklebox line test
I didn't say it was anything special. I said it was strong (probably due to the diameter) and reliable (abrasive resistance, consistent strength etc), both of which I would argue are the most important properties of a main line when fishing in weed. The original question doesn't indicate suggestions for a mainline for casting long distances or for use on fishing lakes with silly rules such as max line diameter (just use the 12 lb version)
I find the line ratings of a lot of lines a complete joke exactly because of your bracketed point.
A 15lb line should be 0.35mm, 18lb 0.38mm, and 20lb 0.40mm.
I know a few years ago there was a big hoohar in the tackle industry about breaking strains vs diameter. It does make comparing lines for specific purposes quite difficult when you are mixing diameters as thicker lines should be better in weed and snags for abrasion resistance, and thinner lines for casting.
I know Tackle Box do their line tests but they miss abrasion resistance as a test, however they do give a recommendation on lines they would use in weed.
tacklebox line test
In reply to Post #15
Why should a 15lb line be 0.35mm, 18lb 0.38mm, and 20lb 0.40mm ?
Who told you that ?
Why should a 15lb line be 0.35mm, 18lb 0.38mm, and 20lb 0.40mm ?
Who told you that ?
In reply to Post #16
I was thinking that...
I was thinking that...
In reply to Post #16
Because that's a rough guides for mono filament lines as they are all a continuous single filament of nylon.
Because that's a rough guides for mono filament lines as they are all a continuous single filament of nylon.
In reply to Post #18
Thats quite obvious though Goose , there are no sizes set in stone though
Thats quite obvious though Goose , there are no sizes set in stone though
In reply to Post #1
Big Game 15LB
Big Game 15LB
In reply to Post #16
In reply to Post #15
Why should a 15lb line be 0.35mm, 18lb 0.38mm, and 20lb 0.40mm ?
Who told you that ?
It was to do with specified diameters and breaking strains for tournament casting, and I think IGFA line ratings.
A specific diameter line was matched with a specific shockleader in casting tourneys, and IGFA records were that a line rating had to be consistent throughout, with no added leader for any record to be considered.
Anglers have been 'convinced' that a 15lb line that breaks at 20lb is a 'better' line than one that breaks at 15lb, yet if the one that breaks at 20lb is a 0.40mm line, then the angler is not getting the whole story.
Now a 0.35mm line that breaks at 20lb is impressive.
A thicker line In theory should also have better abrasion resistance, (but doesn't always) as some lines do seem more resistant to damage, they may be more 'slippery' over snags and not get abraded as a line that 'digs in', or a more supple line may not get damaged as easily as a stiffer line in the same diameter.
Anglers themselves also have lines that work for them, yet other lines don't. I got on with Daiwa Sensor, others hated it. I found Berkeley Big Game, Ultima lines and Nash Bullet absolutely awful horrible stuff, too much twist, unexplained breakages.
Other lines I got on with for years Platil, Sylcast, Maxima, hardly heard of now.
The line I do still use, in and around weed is Gardner Pro, either light or dark in 15lb.
In reply to Post #15
Why should a 15lb line be 0.35mm, 18lb 0.38mm, and 20lb 0.40mm ?
Who told you that ?
It was to do with specified diameters and breaking strains for tournament casting, and I think IGFA line ratings.
A specific diameter line was matched with a specific shockleader in casting tourneys, and IGFA records were that a line rating had to be consistent throughout, with no added leader for any record to be considered.
Anglers have been 'convinced' that a 15lb line that breaks at 20lb is a 'better' line than one that breaks at 15lb, yet if the one that breaks at 20lb is a 0.40mm line, then the angler is not getting the whole story.
Now a 0.35mm line that breaks at 20lb is impressive.
A thicker line In theory should also have better abrasion resistance, (but doesn't always) as some lines do seem more resistant to damage, they may be more 'slippery' over snags and not get abraded as a line that 'digs in', or a more supple line may not get damaged as easily as a stiffer line in the same diameter.
Anglers themselves also have lines that work for them, yet other lines don't. I got on with Daiwa Sensor, others hated it. I found Berkeley Big Game, Ultima lines and Nash Bullet absolutely awful horrible stuff, too much twist, unexplained breakages.
Other lines I got on with for years Platil, Sylcast, Maxima, hardly heard of now.
The line I do still use, in and around weed is Gardner Pro, either light or dark in 15lb.
In reply to Post #21
Nobody in this thread said that GR60 in 15lb actually breaks at 15lb did they? The original poster simply asked for suggestions of the best main line for fishing in weed. I wish I would have said "GR60 in 0.39 mm diameter" now. Christ on a bike!
Everybody and their mother knows that the strength of a line is primarily a function of the diameter. I'd imagine the chemical construction also plays a part because the strength of the chemical bonds between the atoms must play some role, has anybody bothered to test the chemical bonds of GR60 in 15... sorry 0.39 mm before? Also, any differences in suppleness of lines are probably, to all practical purposes anyway, completely diminished when put under tension whilst playing a fish.
Nobody in this thread said that GR60 in 15lb actually breaks at 15lb did they? The original poster simply asked for suggestions of the best main line for fishing in weed. I wish I would have said "GR60 in 0.39 mm diameter" now. Christ on a bike!
Everybody and their mother knows that the strength of a line is primarily a function of the diameter. I'd imagine the chemical construction also plays a part because the strength of the chemical bonds between the atoms must play some role, has anybody bothered to test the chemical bonds of GR60 in 15... sorry 0.39 mm before? Also, any differences in suppleness of lines are probably, to all practical purposes anyway, completely diminished when put under tension whilst playing a fish.
In reply to Post #20
I used to use that, so long ago I can't remember why I stopped using it. There was a reason. Also technology has come on so far since then there must be better lines out there now.
I used to use that, so long ago I can't remember why I stopped using it. There was a reason. Also technology has come on so far since then there must be better lines out there now.
In reply to Post #21
IGFA as in International Game Fish Organisation ?
Carp fishing and carp fishing line has zero relevance to IGFA so lines can be whatever thickness and rating the manufacturers want to put on the label , I always look at diameter first , I think you'll find most anglers will , rating is only relevant to the venues rule book in my eyes
IGFA as in International Game Fish Organisation ?
Carp fishing and carp fishing line has zero relevance to IGFA so lines can be whatever thickness and rating the manufacturers want to put on the label , I always look at diameter first , I think you'll find most anglers will , rating is only relevant to the venues rule book in my eyes
I've been using berkley.. I don't know which one but its been the best mono I've ever used and you get miles of it for the money
Have been seriously impressed with the new Thinking Anglers OGX....was out in France recently and had some trouble with a fish getting into some savage thorny tree root snags, landed the fish when it eventually came out but expected the line to be shredded....it was barely marked.
In reply to Post #26
Have been seriously impressed with the new Thinking Anglers OGX....was out in France recently and had some trouble with a fish getting into some savage thorny tree root snags, landed the fish when it eventually came out but expected the line to be shredded....it was barely marked.
That is a serious line. The 0.35mm was breaking in the line tests at around 18lb. Sadly the only line that came close to that is the discontinued Shimano Catana that broke at 20lb.
In reply to Post #21
IGFA as in International Game Fish Organisation ?
Carp fishing and carp fishing line has zero relevance to IGFA so lines can be whatever thickness and rating the manufacturers want to put on the label , I always look at diameter first , I think you'll find most anglers will , rating is only relevant to the venues rule book in my eyes
From working in Tackle shops I can pretty much guarantee That most anglers DON'T look at line diameter, they ask for a breaking strain, carp anglers especially so. It is pole anglers who might ask for a diameter.
I recall there was a thing about consumer standards or Line Charter regarding breaking strains of lines, with breaking strains being so overrated leading to a spate of prosecutions. So a 15lb line should be around 15lb, NOT 20lb. Also you are incorrect about IGFA as their line tests are actually tested close to a fishing situation.
Also technology has come on so far since then there must be better lines out there now.
Sadly fishing lines are still pretty much the same. I refer to this above, 0.35mm is still around 15lb. The only thing that has changed is the line stretch or elasticity
Henry Gilbey said this back in 2016 I think it was:
Culture - In the UK historically people bought line by breaking strain, and only in more recent times have anglers started to consider diameter in a more important way. If you are going to buy a 15lb line then you want a strong one, and you may remember an old brand called Sylcast that was famous for being exceptionally strong. In reality it wasn't, it was just thicker and so stronger than stated. Europeans by contrast have looked at diameters when buying for a lot longer than we have. So again as a way of getting ahead of the competition it makes sense to have your 0.35mm stronger than the rest as nylon is nylon and there is not a great deal you can do except cheat and state a higher breaking strain than the reality. Interestingly the US has always sold line by "lb test" ratings. The rationale being that a 15lb Test will always break at a minimum of 15lb with a knot. Like the UK this encourages companies to put heavier line on the spool to make their "15lb test" stronger than the rest. There is some IGFA rated line where it cannot break at more than 15lb (although interestingly the IGFA strength testing standard is much closer to a fishing scenario than the industry standard).”
“So in answer to your question "Are the ratings on a spool of line essentially a load of rubbish?" then the answer is yes. If the line is from a EFTTA Line Charter member than you can be sure the diameter and breaking strain is correct in the laboratory, but a bit overstated for real fishing scenarios. If it is not Line Charter certified then it could be greatly overstated (Poland and Italy being the worse offenders) or greatly understated (probably a UK brand).”
Have been seriously impressed with the new Thinking Anglers OGX....was out in France recently and had some trouble with a fish getting into some savage thorny tree root snags, landed the fish when it eventually came out but expected the line to be shredded....it was barely marked.
That is a serious line. The 0.35mm was breaking in the line tests at around 18lb. Sadly the only line that came close to that is the discontinued Shimano Catana that broke at 20lb.
In reply to Post #21
IGFA as in International Game Fish Organisation ?
Carp fishing and carp fishing line has zero relevance to IGFA so lines can be whatever thickness and rating the manufacturers want to put on the label , I always look at diameter first , I think you'll find most anglers will , rating is only relevant to the venues rule book in my eyes
From working in Tackle shops I can pretty much guarantee That most anglers DON'T look at line diameter, they ask for a breaking strain, carp anglers especially so. It is pole anglers who might ask for a diameter.
I recall there was a thing about consumer standards or Line Charter regarding breaking strains of lines, with breaking strains being so overrated leading to a spate of prosecutions. So a 15lb line should be around 15lb, NOT 20lb. Also you are incorrect about IGFA as their line tests are actually tested close to a fishing situation.
Also technology has come on so far since then there must be better lines out there now.
Sadly fishing lines are still pretty much the same. I refer to this above, 0.35mm is still around 15lb. The only thing that has changed is the line stretch or elasticity
Henry Gilbey said this back in 2016 I think it was:
Culture - In the UK historically people bought line by breaking strain, and only in more recent times have anglers started to consider diameter in a more important way. If you are going to buy a 15lb line then you want a strong one, and you may remember an old brand called Sylcast that was famous for being exceptionally strong. In reality it wasn't, it was just thicker and so stronger than stated. Europeans by contrast have looked at diameters when buying for a lot longer than we have. So again as a way of getting ahead of the competition it makes sense to have your 0.35mm stronger than the rest as nylon is nylon and there is not a great deal you can do except cheat and state a higher breaking strain than the reality. Interestingly the US has always sold line by "lb test" ratings. The rationale being that a 15lb Test will always break at a minimum of 15lb with a knot. Like the UK this encourages companies to put heavier line on the spool to make their "15lb test" stronger than the rest. There is some IGFA rated line where it cannot break at more than 15lb (although interestingly the IGFA strength testing standard is much closer to a fishing scenario than the industry standard).”
“So in answer to your question "Are the ratings on a spool of line essentially a load of rubbish?" then the answer is yes. If the line is from a EFTTA Line Charter member than you can be sure the diameter and breaking strain is correct in the laboratory, but a bit overstated for real fishing scenarios. If it is not Line Charter certified then it could be greatly overstated (Poland and Italy being the worse offenders) or greatly understated (probably a UK brand).”
In reply to Post #27
That is a serious line. The 0.35mm was breaking in the line tests at around 18lb. Sadly the only line that came close to that is the discontinued Shimano Catana that broke at 20lb.
there are a few lines at 0.35 that break at 18lb plus according to tackle box line test.
That is a serious line. The 0.35mm was breaking in the line tests at around 18lb. Sadly the only line that came close to that is the discontinued Shimano Catana that broke at 20lb.
there are a few lines at 0.35 that break at 18lb plus according to tackle box line test.
In reply to Post #22
Everybody and their mother knows that the strength of a line is primarily a function of the diameter. I'd imagine the chemical construction also plays a part because the strength of the chemical bonds between the atoms must play some role, has anybody bothered to test the chemical bonds of GR60 in 15... sorry 0.39 mm before? Also, any differences in suppleness of lines are probably, to all practical purposes anyway, completely diminished when put under tension whilst playing a fish.
If you are going to try to be smart, at least try to be correct.
That is just it, it isn't, or doesn't have to be diameter equals strength.
I go back to Shimano Catana, in 0.35mm, 15lb line that was regularly breaking around 20lb. Others in the same 0.35mm diameter as Goose has said breaking between 18-20lb. It is strange how some Korda lines rated at 15lb, 0.35mm stand up extremely well in breaking strain, yet the same 18lb line is cacke.
The suppleness of some lines is screwed over by something people ignore, line stretch. Mono stretches between 15 and 30% under tension, and different brands stretch different amounts, some recover to some or most of the original, others will stretch and stay stretched (minimal elasticity) then next cast might break. It could be that a line that does not stretch much retains more strength. A very supple line might stretch more, put it under tension, and you put your knot at risk of giving way.
Line stretch could possibly affect bite indication. A line that can stretch still after putting indicator on could give reduced bite indication. A stretched line with indicator on could give improved indication, but you could be close to breaking point before even tightening into the fish. That stretched line touching a tough weed stem could break, yet a low stretch line could handle it.
Everybody and their mother knows that the strength of a line is primarily a function of the diameter. I'd imagine the chemical construction also plays a part because the strength of the chemical bonds between the atoms must play some role, has anybody bothered to test the chemical bonds of GR60 in 15... sorry 0.39 mm before? Also, any differences in suppleness of lines are probably, to all practical purposes anyway, completely diminished when put under tension whilst playing a fish.
If you are going to try to be smart, at least try to be correct.
That is just it, it isn't, or doesn't have to be diameter equals strength.
I go back to Shimano Catana, in 0.35mm, 15lb line that was regularly breaking around 20lb. Others in the same 0.35mm diameter as Goose has said breaking between 18-20lb. It is strange how some Korda lines rated at 15lb, 0.35mm stand up extremely well in breaking strain, yet the same 18lb line is cacke.
The suppleness of some lines is screwed over by something people ignore, line stretch. Mono stretches between 15 and 30% under tension, and different brands stretch different amounts, some recover to some or most of the original, others will stretch and stay stretched (minimal elasticity) then next cast might break. It could be that a line that does not stretch much retains more strength. A very supple line might stretch more, put it under tension, and you put your knot at risk of giving way.
Line stretch could possibly affect bite indication. A line that can stretch still after putting indicator on could give reduced bite indication. A stretched line with indicator on could give improved indication, but you could be close to breaking point before even tightening into the fish. That stretched line touching a tough weed stem could break, yet a low stretch line could handle it.
In reply to Post #29
One of the stages in the manufacturing process is annealing and I believe this can be use to give the line different properties such as suppleness, stretch etc. Not sure if this is true but I feel some lines have like an external case hardening making them abrasion resistant but wirey and less supple, then again some have an external coating. Twenty plus years ago I visited the Bayer factory in Germany through my work as a service engineer and remember the manager telling me that at that time there were only three factory's in the world producing mono filament fishing line, Bayer as said in Germany, Berkley in the USA and I think it was yozuri in Japan but all produced line for tackle companies that put their name on it.
One of the stages in the manufacturing process is annealing and I believe this can be use to give the line different properties such as suppleness, stretch etc. Not sure if this is true but I feel some lines have like an external case hardening making them abrasion resistant but wirey and less supple, then again some have an external coating. Twenty plus years ago I visited the Bayer factory in Germany through my work as a service engineer and remember the manager telling me that at that time there were only three factory's in the world producing mono filament fishing line, Bayer as said in Germany, Berkley in the USA and I think it was yozuri in Japan but all produced line for tackle companies that put their name on it.
In reply to Post #30
Probably one in China as well by now?
Probably one in China as well by now?
In reply to Post #27
Wasn't the Daiwa Infinity mono IGFA rated? Pretty sure it was. The 20lb bs was about 0.035 from memory.
Wasn't the Daiwa Infinity mono IGFA rated? Pretty sure it was. The 20lb bs was about 0.035 from memory.
In reply to Post #27
Your quote ... From working in Tackle shops I can pretty much guarantee That most anglers DON'T look at line diameter, they ask for a breaking strain, carp anglers especially so. It is pole anglers who might ask for a diameter.
I recall there was a thing about consumer standards or Line Charter regarding breaking strains of lines, with breaking strains being so overrated leading to a spate of prosecutions. So a 15lb line should be around 15lb, NOT 20lb. Also you are incorrect about IGFA as their line tests are actually tested close to a fishing situation.
I didn't mention most anglers , this is a carp forum for discussion of carp line I think you may be generalising this a tad .
So you're saying carp anglers especially don't look at diameter when buying a line ? You're out of touch I'm afraid with that , as you have said ratings are not a true comparison between different manufacturers, you're basically talking bull I'm afraid
Your quote ... From working in Tackle shops I can pretty much guarantee That most anglers DON'T look at line diameter, they ask for a breaking strain, carp anglers especially so. It is pole anglers who might ask for a diameter.
I recall there was a thing about consumer standards or Line Charter regarding breaking strains of lines, with breaking strains being so overrated leading to a spate of prosecutions. So a 15lb line should be around 15lb, NOT 20lb. Also you are incorrect about IGFA as their line tests are actually tested close to a fishing situation.
I didn't mention most anglers , this is a carp forum for discussion of carp line I think you may be generalising this a tad .
So you're saying carp anglers especially don't look at diameter when buying a line ? You're out of touch I'm afraid with that , as you have said ratings are not a true comparison between different manufacturers, you're basically talking bull I'm afraid
A question to all carp anglers .....
How many of you don't look at line diameter and only rely on the stated breaking strain when buying line ?
How many of you don't look at line diameter and only rely on the stated breaking strain when buying line ?
In reply to Post #34
Yep, never take notice of diameter
Yep, never take notice of diameter
In reply to Post #35
Quote... Yep, never take notice of diameter
That does surprise me Ian ,if your favourite line which is say GR60 in 15lb 0.40mm isn't available any more and you looked at an alternative say PB control , which is as follows...
18lb, 0.30mm, 1250m spool
24lb, 0.35mm, 1250m spool
28lb, 0.38mm, 1250m spool
If they did it 15lb what do you think the diameter would be ? What im saying is you should never go by the rating , you should always go by the diameter , especially when considering snags and distance
Quote... Yep, never take notice of diameter
That does surprise me Ian ,if your favourite line which is say GR60 in 15lb 0.40mm isn't available any more and you looked at an alternative say PB control , which is as follows...
18lb, 0.30mm, 1250m spool
24lb, 0.35mm, 1250m spool
28lb, 0.38mm, 1250m spool
If they did it 15lb what do you think the diameter would be ? What im saying is you should never go by the rating , you should always go by the diameter , especially when considering snags and distance
In reply to Post #36
Majority probably know what they use and just replace like for like unless they have had issues. Don't understand why some constantly change there line.
Majority probably know what they use and just replace like for like unless they have had issues. Don't understand why some constantly change there line.
In reply to Post #37
Lines have changed a lot of the years , long gone are the days where you can just pick up a spool of 15lb and it be like any older 15lb type , those that do choose based on rating alone should be made aware that they could be making a big mistake with their line choice as explained earlier with the pb control mono v Gardner line diameter
Lines have changed a lot of the years , long gone are the days where you can just pick up a spool of 15lb and it be like any older 15lb type , those that do choose based on rating alone should be made aware that they could be making a big mistake with their line choice as explained earlier with the pb control mono v Gardner line diameter
In reply to Post #38
True but I would assume the vast majority would look at reviews as well as the b/s and diameter and probably talk to other carp anglers either on the bank or in the local shop or forums. There are more choices of mono now but but some lines from 20+ years ago would still give them a good challenge, Technium black, Catana if still available, gr60, personally I still use maxima chameleon in 4,6 and 8lb for barbel and chub fishing and I've tried many of the modern alternatives but don't find them better.
True but I would assume the vast majority would look at reviews as well as the b/s and diameter and probably talk to other carp anglers either on the bank or in the local shop or forums. There are more choices of mono now but but some lines from 20+ years ago would still give them a good challenge, Technium black, Catana if still available, gr60, personally I still use maxima chameleon in 4,6 and 8lb for barbel and chub fishing and I've tried many of the modern alternatives but don't find them better.
In reply to Post #34
Diameter only for me. I take no notice of the bs because it is nothing but bs
Diameter only for me. I take no notice of the bs because it is nothing but bs
In reply to Post #40
didnt Berkley change Big Game for example to the IGFA rating and people then complained it wasnt as durable as before.
so they went back to "breaking strain rating"
didnt Berkley change Big Game for example to the IGFA rating and people then complained it wasnt as durable as before.
so they went back to "breaking strain rating"
In reply to Post #36
Tbh the gr is what I've used for many years now, and as it's becoming harder to source now I've got a couple of new spools stashed away so I've not really needed to look for anything else. I did give the cm90 a go and just went for the 15 rather than checking the diameter ,and as to me the first thing I want is abrasion resistance and I found it lacking in that area I ditched it and got the gr back on. When I've run out of the I've already decided to go to asso lines and know that they are superb for abrasion resistance in the higher strains I use for catting so there's no reason the lower strains won't be the same. Diameter doesn't really come into it for me as I'm not a big caster these days anyway.
Tbh the gr is what I've used for many years now, and as it's becoming harder to source now I've got a couple of new spools stashed away so I've not really needed to look for anything else. I did give the cm90 a go and just went for the 15 rather than checking the diameter ,and as to me the first thing I want is abrasion resistance and I found it lacking in that area I ditched it and got the gr back on. When I've run out of the I've already decided to go to asso lines and know that they are superb for abrasion resistance in the higher strains I use for catting so there's no reason the lower strains won't be the same. Diameter doesn't really come into it for me as I'm not a big caster these days anyway.
In reply to Post #37
04:24In reply to Post #36
Majority probably know what they use and just replace like for like unless they have had issues. Don't understand why some constantly change there line.
Goose,
I think a lot of people change line because they find it is not as good as they expected it to be In their fishing situation.
Line twist, stretch or durability, abrasion resistance.
As you said in your following post, they read reviews, take advice or read other anglers opinions then change to one of the best rated, not considering how or exactly what they need.
A line that behaves on a Big Pit reel can be awful on a smaller baitrunner, or vice versa. How an angler loads the line onto the reel can change its behaviour in a fishing situation by creating line twist. Even brands recommend different ways to load your reel spool, some straight, some off the front, yet I reckon most of us (including me), always load our reels the same way
So you're saying carp anglers especially don't look at diameter when buying a line ? You're out of touch I'm afraid with that , as you have said ratings are not a true comparison between different manufacturers, you're basically talking bull I'm afraid
Fraid I'm not talking bull, although I enjoy reading yours 
Ip100 made my point, and he is not the only one. I also gave a quote by Henry Gilbey, an angling journalist and presenter. I pointed out I worked in a tackle shop, very few carp anglers chose a line on diameter, they asked for a breaking strain. I didn't try to muddy the waters, although I did point out that it was mostly pole anglers who specified a diameter. I kept to carp anglers other than that, so I wasn't generalising
at 11.22am In reply to Post #37
Lines have changed a lot of the years , long gone are the days where you can just pick up a spool of 15lb and it be like any older 15lb type ,
The exact point I made in Post 29, just picking up a spool of line you need to consider its pros and cons in your fishing, but very few anglers actually test the stretch, know the percentage of stretch the mono they are using, even what knot works best, not all are the same.
I bet most anglers can tie (example only) a grinner knot and use it for all of their fishing, hooklinks, Mainline to swivel, Mainline to leader. Yet again as an example only Sensor works best with a palmar knot.
Lines haven't changed that much in 30years, not all have improved, many brands are made in the same factory, just a different label.
Goose has backed my point up, lines from 20years ago would be and still are giving modern lines a run for their money.
Think of the carp market as a cake.
With 5 tackle brands your cake is cut into 5 decent sized pieces.
Now the carp market is probably 30 or more manufacturers, the cake is the same size, yet the pieces are smaller. There are so many more line brands available that weren't about 20years ago. They are all produced in the 6 Line factories in the world.
@ip100
I have used some Asso lines, bought some in this country last year, when I went to get the same this year it is no longer available in the UK.
I have had the same problem in the past with P-line.
I do think, not positive though that they both make line for other brands as some of the initials in the name like CX-Pro match other brands.
(Edited for typo)
04:24In reply to Post #36
Majority probably know what they use and just replace like for like unless they have had issues. Don't understand why some constantly change there line.
Goose,
I think a lot of people change line because they find it is not as good as they expected it to be In their fishing situation.
Line twist, stretch or durability, abrasion resistance.
As you said in your following post, they read reviews, take advice or read other anglers opinions then change to one of the best rated, not considering how or exactly what they need.
A line that behaves on a Big Pit reel can be awful on a smaller baitrunner, or vice versa. How an angler loads the line onto the reel can change its behaviour in a fishing situation by creating line twist. Even brands recommend different ways to load your reel spool, some straight, some off the front, yet I reckon most of us (including me), always load our reels the same way
So you're saying carp anglers especially don't look at diameter when buying a line ? You're out of touch I'm afraid with that , as you have said ratings are not a true comparison between different manufacturers, you're basically talking bull I'm afraid
Fraid I'm not talking bull, although I enjoy reading yours
Ip100 made my point, and he is not the only one. I also gave a quote by Henry Gilbey, an angling journalist and presenter. I pointed out I worked in a tackle shop, very few carp anglers chose a line on diameter, they asked for a breaking strain. I didn't try to muddy the waters, although I did point out that it was mostly pole anglers who specified a diameter. I kept to carp anglers other than that, so I wasn't generalising
at 11.22am In reply to Post #37
Lines have changed a lot of the years , long gone are the days where you can just pick up a spool of 15lb and it be like any older 15lb type ,
The exact point I made in Post 29, just picking up a spool of line you need to consider its pros and cons in your fishing, but very few anglers actually test the stretch, know the percentage of stretch the mono they are using, even what knot works best, not all are the same.
I bet most anglers can tie (example only) a grinner knot and use it for all of their fishing, hooklinks, Mainline to swivel, Mainline to leader. Yet again as an example only Sensor works best with a palmar knot.
Lines haven't changed that much in 30years, not all have improved, many brands are made in the same factory, just a different label.
Goose has backed my point up, lines from 20years ago would be and still are giving modern lines a run for their money.
Think of the carp market as a cake.
With 5 tackle brands your cake is cut into 5 decent sized pieces.
Now the carp market is probably 30 or more manufacturers, the cake is the same size, yet the pieces are smaller. There are so many more line brands available that weren't about 20years ago. They are all produced in the 6 Line factories in the world.
@ip100
I have used some Asso lines, bought some in this country last year, when I went to get the same this year it is no longer available in the UK.
I have had the same problem in the past with P-line.
I do think, not positive though that they both make line for other brands as some of the initials in the name like CX-Pro match other brands.
(Edited for typo)
In reply to Post #43
eBay nick, loads of asso on there
eBay nick, loads of asso on there
In reply to Post #44
Ive used Sakuma fluro alot, very impressed
Ive used Sakuma fluro alot, very impressed
In reply to Post #42
It's a shame it's difficult to get GLT Pro Gold, I thought that was a comparative line to GR60. Not that I gave much of a toss to do an in-depth comparison - I just used it and I found it worked just as well.
It's a shame it's difficult to get GLT Pro Gold, I thought that was a comparative line to GR60. Not that I gave much of a toss to do an in-depth comparison - I just used it and I found it worked just as well.
In reply to Post #1
It depends how they are fishing and just what type of weed and how much, like most things in carp fishing if given a bit of thought it's not a problem.
It depends how they are fishing and just what type of weed and how much, like most things in carp fishing if given a bit of thought it's not a problem.
As for line I've been using Gardner Pro Light Blend for a number of seasons and it's been great for me, currently using the XM version which is 0.40, not lost a fish.
In reply to Post #44
Love a bit of asso, got 2 lots
Love a bit of asso, got 2 lots
In reply to Post #43
You are living in the dark ages im afraid , you're miles behind the times , any notable and accomplished carp angler will always look at diameter of a line first , think of distance casting lines , have you ever heard or seen of them before ? As I've already mentioned this is carp forum for a question about carp fishing lines not some idiot called Gilbey who knows **** all about it
You are living in the dark ages im afraid , you're miles behind the times , any notable and accomplished carp angler will always look at diameter of a line first , think of distance casting lines , have you ever heard or seen of them before ? As I've already mentioned this is carp forum for a question about carp fishing lines not some idiot called Gilbey who knows **** all about it
In reply to Post #50
Just stop talking twaddle, I shown you outright wrong a few times on this thread alone. On other threads you have also been shown to be wrong.
Now Henry Gilbey is an angling journalist, so while he may be a sea angler he does represent the sport as a whole.
Again his point shows how wrong you are.
Have I heard of casting lines?
I took the trouble to point out tournament casting line for tournaments, you even argued the point on that, I know they have specific diameters
Anglers look at diameter? Er No!
First one on here
GR60 in 15lb. In fact, I'll never use anything else as long as they keep making it.
Next:
In reply to Post #8
I used Fox Exocet in 21lb.
And:Big Game 15LB
#35 27 May 2022 at 8.22am 1In reply to Post #34
Yep, never take notice of diameter
How many times do you want to be shown that you are arguing for the sake of it?
I would suggest
Just stop talking twaddle, I shown you outright wrong a few times on this thread alone. On other threads you have also been shown to be wrong.
Now Henry Gilbey is an angling journalist, so while he may be a sea angler he does represent the sport as a whole.
Again his point shows how wrong you are.
Have I heard of casting lines?
I took the trouble to point out tournament casting line for tournaments, you even argued the point on that, I know they have specific diameters
Anglers look at diameter? Er No!
First one on here
GR60 in 15lb. In fact, I'll never use anything else as long as they keep making it.
Next:
In reply to Post #8
I used Fox Exocet in 21lb.
And:Big Game 15LB
#35 27 May 2022 at 8.22am 1In reply to Post #34
Yep, never take notice of diameter
How many times do you want to be shown that you are arguing for the sake of it?
I would suggest
In reply to Post #51
I must admit, I take zero notice of the diameter, doesnt interest me in the slightest
I must admit, I take zero notice of the diameter, doesnt interest me in the slightest
In reply to Post #51
If diameter wasn't relevant on carp lines then why would manufacturers print it on the label ? You've got to be blind if you don't look at diameters, it's irresponsible for one and many waters specify minimum breaking strain WITH DIAMETER OF LEAST ........ mm . Are you sure you are still correct ? Noj and MarkERZ disagree or are you so blind in thinking that you are right you can't take being wrong which you are , now crawl back under your rock on the ‘other' forum ... if you can
Oh and stop going on about Henry ****ing Glibey , he's a ****ing muppet and has no relevance to this thread
If diameter wasn't relevant on carp lines then why would manufacturers print it on the label ? You've got to be blind if you don't look at diameters, it's irresponsible for one and many waters specify minimum breaking strain WITH DIAMETER OF LEAST ........ mm . Are you sure you are still correct ? Noj and MarkERZ disagree or are you so blind in thinking that you are right you can't take being wrong which you are , now crawl back under your rock on the ‘other' forum ... if you can
Oh and stop going on about Henry ****ing Glibey , he's a ****ing muppet and has no relevance to this thread
In reply to Post #53
Why is it irresponsible??
Why is it irresponsible??
In reply to Post #54
Ok , take your usual line which might be for arguments sake Korda Basix ‘15lb' which comes in a a diameter of 0.40mm .
Now take another ‘15lb' line this time Prologic mimicry , it's stated diameter is 0.30mm , both of these lines have 15lb stated on them , one breaks at 13.37lb and the other breaks at 19.55lb
Which ‘15lb' line would you be happy walloping a 3.5oz or 4oz lead out with ? Or would you not look at diameter ? Same goes for the snag / distance argument
That's why rules are in place on fisheries with a minimum diameter of line , not just a lb rating
Ok , take your usual line which might be for arguments sake Korda Basix ‘15lb' which comes in a a diameter of 0.40mm .
Now take another ‘15lb' line this time Prologic mimicry , it's stated diameter is 0.30mm , both of these lines have 15lb stated on them , one breaks at 13.37lb and the other breaks at 19.55lb
Which ‘15lb' line would you be happy walloping a 3.5oz or 4oz lead out with ? Or would you not look at diameter ? Same goes for the snag / distance argument
That's why rules are in place on fisheries with a minimum diameter of line , not just a lb rating
In reply to Post #54
To go just off stated breaking strain only in my opinion isn't advisable as lines are rated differently.
For example a lot of 15lb lines in the region of 0.37 to 0.4 diameter will happily take a hard cast with 3.5 or 4 oz leads without breaking and due to diameter will be fairly resistant to small nicks damage etc .
Compare that to say 18lb pb products in 0.3mm diameter despite the higher stated breaking strain it will not take the same force when casting so risk cracking off possibly resulting in putting people at risk or leaving live rigs in the lake, it would also not be as durable to minor damage etc with the prospect of losing a fish and leaving it with end tackle.
To go just off stated breaking strain only in my opinion isn't advisable as lines are rated differently.
For example a lot of 15lb lines in the region of 0.37 to 0.4 diameter will happily take a hard cast with 3.5 or 4 oz leads without breaking and due to diameter will be fairly resistant to small nicks damage etc .
Compare that to say 18lb pb products in 0.3mm diameter despite the higher stated breaking strain it will not take the same force when casting so risk cracking off possibly resulting in putting people at risk or leaving live rigs in the lake, it would also not be as durable to minor damage etc with the prospect of losing a fish and leaving it with end tackle.
In reply to Post #56
Sorry andy i replied before i saw your post
Sorry andy i replied before i saw your post
In reply to Post #55
I wouldnt use either, I'd just spoil up with GR60, but that's experience talking though.
But in regards to the diameter, again I wouldnt bother looking, some lines might have a slightly larger diameter, but are poor when it comes to abrasion resistance, likewise the other way around, so it's pretty pointless to me to have 2 sets of rules for mono, especially if you're allowed to use braid
I wouldnt use either, I'd just spoil up with GR60, but that's experience talking though.
But in regards to the diameter, again I wouldnt bother looking, some lines might have a slightly larger diameter, but are poor when it comes to abrasion resistance, likewise the other way around, so it's pretty pointless to me to have 2 sets of rules for mono, especially if you're allowed to use braid
I find it hard to believe that people only go off BS and not diameter. Diameter will give you a much better idea of the performance of the line. BS is BS, just any number the company fancied putting in it.
In reply to Post #51
well
on the waters i fish 15LB is sensible due to snags and the like i dont always use tubing either so it sits inbetween the utter tow rope of 0.40's and the thinner stuff.
i mean if it was labelled as 20 id still use it.
yes ok BG can be a little troublesome to the latest and greatest mono but if it didnt sell they wouldnt make it and will likely still be sold long after alot the more fashionable stuff has disappeared.
tis a shame that people focus too much on this type of stuff and dont keep their own council or openly argue about it
if you dont agree you dont need to use it
well
on the waters i fish 15LB is sensible due to snags and the like i dont always use tubing either so it sits inbetween the utter tow rope of 0.40's and the thinner stuff.
i mean if it was labelled as 20 id still use it.
yes ok BG can be a little troublesome to the latest and greatest mono but if it didnt sell they wouldnt make it and will likely still be sold long after alot the more fashionable stuff has disappeared.
tis a shame that people focus too much on this type of stuff and dont keep their own council or openly argue about it
if you dont agree you dont need to use it
In reply to Post #59
But surely the number 1 fundamental requirement is to know how much force is needed to break the line??
But surely the number 1 fundamental requirement is to know how much force is needed to break the line??
In reply to Post #61
Yes, but the breaking strain system is flawed. (Written before you edited your post)
Breaking how? Leader knot? Linear pull? Palomar knot? Uni knot?
I know by diameter and if the line is pre stretched or coated in something what to expect, the 12 or 15lb label is usually completely inaccurate and non descriptive
Yes, but the breaking strain system is flawed. (Written before you edited your post)
Breaking how? Leader knot? Linear pull? Palomar knot? Uni knot?
I know by diameter and if the line is pre stretched or coated in something what to expect, the 12 or 15lb label is usually completely inaccurate and non descriptive
In reply to Post #59
I agree. To me abrasion resistance is far more important. I have caught carp up to 30lb on a 6lb line while tench fishing with a float. Luckily I was fishing in open water. I have never lost a carp by the line parting on a straight pull. Most times I have had a hairy fight where the carp went into reeds or around roots or snags a thick line has saved the day.
I agree. To me abrasion resistance is far more important. I have caught carp up to 30lb on a 6lb line while tench fishing with a float. Luckily I was fishing in open water. I have never lost a carp by the line parting on a straight pull. Most times I have had a hairy fight where the carp went into reeds or around roots or snags a thick line has saved the day.
In reply to Post #61
Over the years i have tested most lines i use with both knot strengths and a true linear strength.
An example diameter of 0.35mm i usually get around 17-18lb knot strength that is around the same as whether or not the line is rated at 12lb,15lb or 24lb that leads me to believe the stated breaking strain doesn't mean a lot but and the diameter is more consistent
Over the years i have tested most lines i use with both knot strengths and a true linear strength.
An example diameter of 0.35mm i usually get around 17-18lb knot strength that is around the same as whether or not the line is rated at 12lb,15lb or 24lb that leads me to believe the stated breaking strain doesn't mean a lot but and the diameter is more consistent
In reply to Post #53
I find you ignorant, rude and insulting, are you so blind that you don't recognise it yourself?
Yes I am positive I'm correct, I worked in Tackle shops. I sold fishing line to many anglers of all disciplines. Noj and MarkerZ are the exceptions that prove the rule, they are NOT the majority.
No rules on diameter on these Fisheries, so once again, you are talking out of your rear end
› ...
Rules | Berners Hall Fishery
our rules · Strictly barbless hooks only (no micro barbed or crimped barbs). · One Zig per angler. · No Leaders or lead core of any type. · Minimum 15lb mainline
Earith Carp Lakes
15lb maximum mainline (only mono)No braid mainline and no leadcore
Either micro-barb or whisker barb or barbless hooks
No bent hooks
Hintelsham Fisheries
7.Minimum of 15lb line to be used maximum 20lb. No braided mainline is allowed only mono and fluorocarbon.
Oh and stop going on about Henry ****ing Glibey , he's a ****ing muppet and has no relevance to this thread
Henry Gilbey is an angling journalist, these words alone make it relevant, what don't you like about that?
Or is it that an angling journalist can show you you are wrong and don't like it?
Culture - In the UK historically people bought line by breaking strain, and only in more recent times have anglers started to consider diameter in a more important way. If you are going to buy a 15lb line then you want a strong one, and you may remember an old brand called Sylcast that was famous for being exceptionally strong.
As for another point, you reckon modern lines are better than lines from 20years ago, Goose said this:
There are more choices of mono now but but some lines from 20+ years ago would still give them a good challenge, Technium black, Catana if still available, gr60, personally I still use maxima chameleon in 4,6 and 8lb for barbel and chub fishing and I've tried many of the modern alternatives but don't find them better.
I have been able to back up my arguments with quotes from other people on the thread, from websites, from Fisheries, whereas your arguments are pretty much your own imagination.
At least I have a rock I can crawl under instead of the glass house you live in
You really aren't worth the effort
I find you ignorant, rude and insulting, are you so blind that you don't recognise it yourself?
Yes I am positive I'm correct, I worked in Tackle shops. I sold fishing line to many anglers of all disciplines. Noj and MarkerZ are the exceptions that prove the rule, they are NOT the majority.
No rules on diameter on these Fisheries, so once again, you are talking out of your rear end
› ...
Rules | Berners Hall Fishery
our rules · Strictly barbless hooks only (no micro barbed or crimped barbs). · One Zig per angler. · No Leaders or lead core of any type. · Minimum 15lb mainline
Earith Carp Lakes
15lb maximum mainline (only mono)No braid mainline and no leadcore
Either micro-barb or whisker barb or barbless hooks
No bent hooks
Hintelsham Fisheries
7.Minimum of 15lb line to be used maximum 20lb. No braided mainline is allowed only mono and fluorocarbon.
Oh and stop going on about Henry ****ing Glibey , he's a ****ing muppet and has no relevance to this thread
Henry Gilbey is an angling journalist, these words alone make it relevant, what don't you like about that?
Or is it that an angling journalist can show you you are wrong and don't like it?
Culture - In the UK historically people bought line by breaking strain, and only in more recent times have anglers started to consider diameter in a more important way. If you are going to buy a 15lb line then you want a strong one, and you may remember an old brand called Sylcast that was famous for being exceptionally strong.
As for another point, you reckon modern lines are better than lines from 20years ago, Goose said this:
There are more choices of mono now but but some lines from 20+ years ago would still give them a good challenge, Technium black, Catana if still available, gr60, personally I still use maxima chameleon in 4,6 and 8lb for barbel and chub fishing and I've tried many of the modern alternatives but don't find them better.
I have been able to back up my arguments with quotes from other people on the thread, from websites, from Fisheries, whereas your arguments are pretty much your own imagination.
At least I have a rock I can crawl under instead of the glass house you live in
You really aren't worth the effort
In reply to Post #53
With all due respect saying not looking at diameter is irresponsible isn't right. I don't need to know the diameter of my gr60 in minimum 15lb, I know it's good solid strong line. That's the important bit for the majority of anglers fishing I'd have thought? I can see diameter becoming more important for distance fishing when casting though. Both are on the labels of spools so either or, as long as what you do works for you what does it matter?
With all due respect saying not looking at diameter is irresponsible isn't right. I don't need to know the diameter of my gr60 in minimum 15lb, I know it's good solid strong line. That's the important bit for the majority of anglers fishing I'd have thought? I can see diameter becoming more important for distance fishing when casting though. Both are on the labels of spools so either or, as long as what you do works for you what does it matter?
In reply to Post #65
You're so blinkered its unreal , you are wrong , get over it , I cant be arsed reading your bull**** so I just skip past it so save your typing for someone who reads the bull
You're so blinkered its unreal , you are wrong , get over it , I cant be arsed reading your bull**** so I just skip past it so save your typing for someone who reads the bull
In reply to Post #66
Thats what I'm getting at , 15lb GR60 is 0.4mm iirc so its gonna be a strong line for its 15lb label with that diameter , you get where I'm coming from ?
So you're telling me you wouldn't look for a similar diameter line to replace the GR60 if you couldn't get any ???you'd just go for another line in 15lb without looking at diameter ? I cant see an angler of your experience not taking notice of the diameter .
Like Noj said bs stands for bull **** , think about it
Thats what I'm getting at , 15lb GR60 is 0.4mm iirc so its gonna be a strong line for its 15lb label with that diameter , you get where I'm coming from ?
So you're telling me you wouldn't look for a similar diameter line to replace the GR60 if you couldn't get any ???you'd just go for another line in 15lb without looking at diameter ? I cant see an angler of your experience not taking notice of the diameter .
Like Noj said bs stands for bull **** , think about it
In reply to Post #68
When I can't get my gr again, I'll get asso hard skin in 15lb, as I also know that is tough as anything and better than the lines aimed at the carp market. When you have line actually in your hands you can see the diameter for yourself. I can see diameter meaning something more when buying unseen. As I stick to what I know and like mostly I've no need to compare. When I tried the cm90 I didn't even look at the diameter on that, I bought a spool off the back of reviews on here ,and when I received it liked what I saw so gave it a try. If nobody used bs as a guide, they wouldn't bother putting it on the spools.
When I can't get my gr again, I'll get asso hard skin in 15lb, as I also know that is tough as anything and better than the lines aimed at the carp market. When you have line actually in your hands you can see the diameter for yourself. I can see diameter meaning something more when buying unseen. As I stick to what I know and like mostly I've no need to compare. When I tried the cm90 I didn't even look at the diameter on that, I bought a spool off the back of reviews on here ,and when I received it liked what I saw so gave it a try. If nobody used bs as a guide, they wouldn't bother putting it on the spools.
In reply to Post #68
The lines these days with so many different diameters to b.s is nuts.I use syncro xt 15lb which is 0.37mm,I tried the TA ogx line in 0.37mm and its rated at 18lb on the tin.I tend to just look at diameter now.
The lines these days with so many different diameters to b.s is nuts.I use syncro xt 15lb which is 0.37mm,I tried the TA ogx line in 0.37mm and its rated at 18lb on the tin.I tend to just look at diameter now.
In reply to Post #11
The abrasion resistance of GR60 again is a factor of its diameter versus its box rated breaking strain. there are lines out there now with greater abrasion resistance by diameter
as for fluro in weed, honestly found 17lb X line to be excellent in all situations ive used it in, including hook and hold snag fishing. have had up to 110 yards out of it on floors terry hearn rods, and played fish in lilies, weed and snags and had minimal issues. it really surprised me.
The abrasion resistance of GR60 again is a factor of its diameter versus its box rated breaking strain. there are lines out there now with greater abrasion resistance by diameter
as for fluro in weed, honestly found 17lb X line to be excellent in all situations ive used it in, including hook and hold snag fishing. have had up to 110 yards out of it on floors terry hearn rods, and played fish in lilies, weed and snags and had minimal issues. it really surprised me.
In reply to Post #71
What are these lines if you don't mind me asking?
What are these lines if you don't mind me asking?
In reply to Post #69
Korda lines are a perfect example on how much the diameter to bs can vary.I like how they do video's and say we have developed a 12lb line that sinks like a brick,check the diameter and its 0.37 or higher not really a 12lb line is it
Korda lines are a perfect example on how much the diameter to bs can vary.I like how they do video's and say we have developed a 12lb line that sinks like a brick,check the diameter and its 0.37 or higher not really a 12lb line is it
In reply to Post #73
That may well be the case Tony, but likewise some higher diameter lines are poorer when it comes to a abrasion resistance too. Big game line for instance, it's thick stuff but not all that good when up against similar lines. At the end of the day, what does it matter as long as it works for you?! Some use be,some use diameter. Who cares ?!
That may well be the case Tony, but likewise some higher diameter lines are poorer when it comes to a abrasion resistance too. Big game line for instance, it's thick stuff but not all that good when up against similar lines. At the end of the day, what does it matter as long as it works for you?! Some use be,some use diameter. Who cares ?!
I think that the generally people buy by breaking strain, I think those that consider the diameter are in the minority albeit probably a sizeable one and I'm certainly one of them. Mostly I think people buy from recommendations from other anglers which can be dangerous if the situation you are fishing isn't taken into account.
You only have to read any thread about line on here and see that there are a lot of people who haven't realised than many modern lines are pre stretched making them thinner and therefore lighter to enhance casting capability. Generally these are not what you want for fishing in weed or near snags although if you also need to fish at range you will obviously need to compromise. Manufacturers don't help with their discriptions often marketing a line as good for both casting and abrasion resistance very few if any really achieve this.
For weed and snags I like to have a margin for error and think the GR60 and synchro in 15lb are very good recommendations of the lines I have personal experience of.
You only have to read any thread about line on here and see that there are a lot of people who haven't realised than many modern lines are pre stretched making them thinner and therefore lighter to enhance casting capability. Generally these are not what you want for fishing in weed or near snags although if you also need to fish at range you will obviously need to compromise. Manufacturers don't help with their discriptions often marketing a line as good for both casting and abrasion resistance very few if any really achieve this.
For weed and snags I like to have a margin for error and think the GR60 and synchro in 15lb are very good recommendations of the lines I have personal experience of.
In reply to Post #75
Quote
many modern lines are pre stretched making them thinner and therefore lighter to enhance casting capability.
Stretching of mono is part of the manufacturing process for virtually all mono's, some are just stretched more than others.
Quote
many modern lines are pre stretched making them thinner and therefore lighter to enhance casting capability.
Stretching of mono is part of the manufacturing process for virtually all mono's, some are just stretched more than others.
In reply to Post #70
Hit the nail on the head there Tony , you just don't know how thick a 15lb line is just by the 15lb rating on it , its shocking to think how many anglers out there are risking potential crack offs and worse by not noting the diameter of said line , I wouldn't dare whack a 3.5oz lead with prologic 15lb mimicry which is 0.29mm measured
I know there are other variables with softer rods when casting and style etc.. but I still wouldn't risk it
Hit the nail on the head there Tony , you just don't know how thick a 15lb line is just by the 15lb rating on it , its shocking to think how many anglers out there are risking potential crack offs and worse by not noting the diameter of said line , I wouldn't dare whack a 3.5oz lead with prologic 15lb mimicry which is 0.29mm measured
I know there are other variables with softer rods when casting and style etc.. but I still wouldn't risk it
In reply to Post #64
Well said Woody 👏
Well said Woody 👏
In reply to Post #78
i wont say whos line i tried, but it stated 18lb on the spool, and i cant remember said diameter...lets say, it was like 8lb BS
well it might aswell have been, it snapped at about that anyway...absolute pile of crap, i chucked 3 spools straight in the bin and never cast out with it
i wont say whos line i tried, but it stated 18lb on the spool, and i cant remember said diameter...lets say, it was like 8lb BS
well it might aswell have been, it snapped at about that anyway...absolute pile of crap, i chucked 3 spools straight in the bin and never cast out with it
In reply to Post #77
That mimicry is very obviously not much suited to big thumps with heavy leads. When you have it in your hands any idiot can see that! Makes a nice floater fishing line though
That mimicry is very obviously not much suited to big thumps with heavy leads. When you have it in your hands any idiot can see that! Makes a nice floater fishing line though
In reply to Post #75
I would of though a low stretch line would be better for snag fishing. PROVIDED you use a thicker diameter line, than you would for casting long distance.
I would of though a low stretch line would be better for snag fishing. PROVIDED you use a thicker diameter line, than you would for casting long distance.
To be fair, breaking strain is an easier way to label line for retail. But like test curve it doesn't tell the whole story. I imagine the majority do just buy a 10 for distance/specialist fishing, 12-15 for general purpose and 18+ for anything a bit tasty.. it's on the manufacturer to market what they think best represents their idea of how a specific line (casting/sinking etc) should be for a given bs I suppose
In reply to Post #82
99% of my angling is no further than 25 yrds out
99% of my angling is no further than 25 yrds out
In reply to Post #80
I get that Ian but if you were ordering the 15lb online without seeing it surely you'd look at the diameter of it to check ?
I get that Ian but if you were ordering the 15lb online without seeing it surely you'd look at the diameter of it to check ?
In reply to Post #74
Mates who used 15lb Big Game on Taverham had it constantly fail.
It simply could not stand the abuse.
I tried it for one session before I replaced it, just couldn't get on with it. I went straight back to my favourite 15lb Sylcast.
I also tried the 18lb Nash Bullet line of the time, again, horrible, and wiry. First fish rubbed against an unknown snag, (which I later retrieved, a fallen branch in the middle of the lake), and parted like cotton.
I used to use Daiwa Sensor in 15lb. What that line stood up to was amazing. I played fish through lilies, round weedbeds, a buoy anchor chain on one occasion, and it never gave way.
I was asked to test and review it by the Daiwa rep, to compare it to the Sylcast I was using, it was what I always replaced my reels with for years.
Sensor was a decent casting line, you could get a decent cast with a 3oz lead on 15lb line straight through.
The only time it ever failed was when I was using a leadcore leader at Suffolk Water Park, a fast take that stayed down low, and the line ran over a flint bar. I was cut off above the leader. (I know it was flint, I lived in the area when SWP was being dug, and it was where there was a flint seam that was left).
The Ultima rep asked me to test some of their 15lb lines. My appraisals were not appreciated, but the line did not stay on the reel. Line twist, no abrasion resistance.
Richard Gardner sent me some Pro Line in 15lb to use and abuse and asked for a review. A budget line that held its own against far more expensive lines. Abrasion resistance, castability, all good. In fact, on a couple of occasions when I snagged up with an overcast, pulling for a break, it was the snag that gave way, and I retrieved a bundle of branch, around 4 or 5 leads and leaders. I think I still have the picture of that lot somewhere.
I still use the Pro lines for fishing, dependant on whether I am using mono or Fluorocarbon obviously.
Other than the Nash 'experiment', I have never had the need to go to 18lb, other than a shockleader when I dropped to 8/10 or 12lb for casting. I figure that if there is the need to go to a higher breaking strain I shouldn't be fishing there!
Other than Shimano Catana, I have never found premium priced lines to be any better than the cheaper Daiwa or Gardner lines.
Mates who used 15lb Big Game on Taverham had it constantly fail.
It simply could not stand the abuse.
I tried it for one session before I replaced it, just couldn't get on with it. I went straight back to my favourite 15lb Sylcast.
I also tried the 18lb Nash Bullet line of the time, again, horrible, and wiry. First fish rubbed against an unknown snag, (which I later retrieved, a fallen branch in the middle of the lake), and parted like cotton.
I used to use Daiwa Sensor in 15lb. What that line stood up to was amazing. I played fish through lilies, round weedbeds, a buoy anchor chain on one occasion, and it never gave way.
I was asked to test and review it by the Daiwa rep, to compare it to the Sylcast I was using, it was what I always replaced my reels with for years.
Sensor was a decent casting line, you could get a decent cast with a 3oz lead on 15lb line straight through.
The only time it ever failed was when I was using a leadcore leader at Suffolk Water Park, a fast take that stayed down low, and the line ran over a flint bar. I was cut off above the leader. (I know it was flint, I lived in the area when SWP was being dug, and it was where there was a flint seam that was left).
The Ultima rep asked me to test some of their 15lb lines. My appraisals were not appreciated, but the line did not stay on the reel. Line twist, no abrasion resistance.
Richard Gardner sent me some Pro Line in 15lb to use and abuse and asked for a review. A budget line that held its own against far more expensive lines. Abrasion resistance, castability, all good. In fact, on a couple of occasions when I snagged up with an overcast, pulling for a break, it was the snag that gave way, and I retrieved a bundle of branch, around 4 or 5 leads and leaders. I think I still have the picture of that lot somewhere.
I still use the Pro lines for fishing, dependant on whether I am using mono or Fluorocarbon obviously.
Other than the Nash 'experiment', I have never had the need to go to 18lb, other than a shockleader when I dropped to 8/10 or 12lb for casting. I figure that if there is the need to go to a higher breaking strain I shouldn't be fishing there!
Other than Shimano Catana, I have never found premium priced lines to be any better than the cheaper Daiwa or Gardner lines.
In reply to Post #67
reply to Post #65
You're so blinkered its unreal , you are wrong , get over it , I cant be arsed reading your bull**** so I just skip past it so save your typing for someone who reads the bull
You have proved your opinion is totally worthless by being insulting and swearing. I can make my points without being rude or insulting.
As I said you aren't worth the effort.
reply to Post #65
You're so blinkered its unreal , you are wrong , get over it , I cant be arsed reading your bull**** so I just skip past it so save your typing for someone who reads the bull
You have proved your opinion is totally worthless by being insulting and swearing. I can make my points without being rude or insulting.
As I said you aren't worth the effort.
In reply to Post #86
Well obviously I am worth the effort as you keep on banging on at me and replying , face it , your old fashioned bs ratings in pounds are just not accurate , breaking strains on spools of line are whatever the manufacturers see fit to put on it , whereas the diameter is a true representation of a lines thickness .
Has the penny still not dropped when folk are banging on about 15lb GR60 and Daiwa Sensor being great lines ? I wonder if they are slightly thicker mono than their competitors in the same bs , what a coincidence
Well obviously I am worth the effort as you keep on banging on at me and replying , face it , your old fashioned bs ratings in pounds are just not accurate , breaking strains on spools of line are whatever the manufacturers see fit to put on it , whereas the diameter is a true representation of a lines thickness .
Has the penny still not dropped when folk are banging on about 15lb GR60 and Daiwa Sensor being great lines ? I wonder if they are slightly thicker mono than their competitors in the same bs , what a coincidence
In reply to Post #87
I always use 0.40 dia lines currently using the ogx which is very good! The reason I personally prefer 0.40 is because it sinks a lot easier as most the time I'm using a semi slack lines - most my fishing under 50 yards. I never look at bs
I always use 0.40 dia lines currently using the ogx which is very good! The reason I personally prefer 0.40 is because it sinks a lot easier as most the time I'm using a semi slack lines - most my fishing under 50 yards. I never look at bs
In reply to Post #84
I wouldn't really want to order line I've not seen mate. Tbh I travel a lot for work so can always lol into a shop to look if needs be. But if it ain't broke ,don't fix it, so I know what I'm buying anyway. Diameter doesn't necessarily mean a line is particularly strong or weak. But I get that would be something to consider if buying totally blind
I wouldn't really want to order line I've not seen mate. Tbh I travel a lot for work so can always lol into a shop to look if needs be. But if it ain't broke ,don't fix it, so I know what I'm buying anyway. Diameter doesn't necessarily mean a line is particularly strong or weak. But I get that would be something to consider if buying totally blind
In reply to Post #87
12 lb gr is bloody good too. Had cats to over 60lb on that..
12 lb gr is bloody good too. Had cats to over 60lb on that..
I think it is important to consider all of the variables - diameter, type of line (for example HydroTuff versus a line aimed at distance casting) and the breaking strain. Generally I would look at the diameter then the breaking strain, diameter for me in my scenarios is more 'important' due to the heavy weed, but I would also always look at the BS.
So look at all the variables, and make your choice
Gardner Pro and HydroTuff both perform excellently in weed in my experience, if that helps, with Hydro being the more resilient line - it's an animal!
So look at all the variables, and make your choice
Gardner Pro and HydroTuff both perform excellently in weed in my experience, if that helps, with Hydro being the more resilient line - it's an animal!
In reply to Post #91
ESP Syncro .037 the best mono I've used
ESP Syncro .037 the best mono I've used
In reply to Post #85
15LB BG and Sensor 15LB are both great stuff imo
always found 15LB BG to be very reliable Sensor is a bit better behaved
15LB BG and Sensor 15LB are both great stuff imo
always found 15LB BG to be very reliable Sensor is a bit better behaved
In reply to Post #91
When Daiwa Sensor first came out, and in Tackle Box's first line tests, I'm positive there was no line diameter marked on the spool, just the breaking strain. It was after the line tests were done that Daiwa started adding diameter to the label.
I know that the original Daiwa Tournament line was marked in diameter, 0.35mm for Tournament casting, (d'oh), and 15lb, and that the next Tournament rated line of 18lb was 0.38mm.
To those was added a shockleader of a specific diameter for Tournament casting rules.
I'm not a good enough caster for the Tournament line being 0.01mm thinner to make much difference. With Sensor on 2.75lb TC rods I could stick a 3oz lead 125metres, would 0.01mm gain me much?
I am exactly the same with Gardner Pro, I can stick a 3.5oz lead around the same with 3.25lb rods. Screwed shoulders now hold back my casting.
I can remember Bayer Perlon had diameters marked, but again years ago, in my teens, I used 3 or 4lb for float fishing and stepped up to 6lb on the lead.
I don't think that Sylcast had diameter marked on the spool, we used 8lb on the Cardinals or Mitchell's as standard.
An afterthought, since there are so few line factories in the world, it is probable that Sylcast, Bayer and Platil, all similar lines are made at the same factory.
15LB BG and Sensor 15LB are both great stuff imo
always found 15LB BG to be very reliable Sensor is a bit better behaved
I know a few people have mentioned that Daiwa Sensor is not as good as it used to be.
I noticed when I used Big Game it it was wiry and horrible, it did not lay well on the reels.
Quite obviously, since I didn't look, it is because 15lb Big Game is thicker than 15lb Sensor.
When Daiwa Sensor first came out, and in Tackle Box's first line tests, I'm positive there was no line diameter marked on the spool, just the breaking strain. It was after the line tests were done that Daiwa started adding diameter to the label.
I know that the original Daiwa Tournament line was marked in diameter, 0.35mm for Tournament casting, (d'oh), and 15lb, and that the next Tournament rated line of 18lb was 0.38mm.
To those was added a shockleader of a specific diameter for Tournament casting rules.
I'm not a good enough caster for the Tournament line being 0.01mm thinner to make much difference. With Sensor on 2.75lb TC rods I could stick a 3oz lead 125metres, would 0.01mm gain me much?
I am exactly the same with Gardner Pro, I can stick a 3.5oz lead around the same with 3.25lb rods. Screwed shoulders now hold back my casting.
I can remember Bayer Perlon had diameters marked, but again years ago, in my teens, I used 3 or 4lb for float fishing and stepped up to 6lb on the lead.
I don't think that Sylcast had diameter marked on the spool, we used 8lb on the Cardinals or Mitchell's as standard.
An afterthought, since there are so few line factories in the world, it is probable that Sylcast, Bayer and Platil, all similar lines are made at the same factory.
15LB BG and Sensor 15LB are both great stuff imo
always found 15LB BG to be very reliable Sensor is a bit better behaved
I know a few people have mentioned that Daiwa Sensor is not as good as it used to be.
I noticed when I used Big Game it it was wiry and horrible, it did not lay well on the reels.
Quite obviously, since I didn't look, it is because 15lb Big Game is thicker than 15lb Sensor.
In reply to Post #51
That's all well and good but what main line do you think might be the best for fishing in weed?
That's all well and good but what main line do you think might be the best for fishing in weed?
In reply to Post #95
Go back to post 21, I posted that before carpe diem tried to turn it into an urinating contest.
Gardner Pro Light in 15lb is on the reels now and I will fill up with the same when I change my line in the next few weeks.
Never lost a fish in weed using it, although that comment will be the kiss of death...
Go back to post 21, I posted that before carpe diem tried to turn it into an urinating contest.
Gardner Pro Light in 15lb is on the reels now and I will fill up with the same when I change my line in the next few weeks.
Never lost a fish in weed using it, although that comment will be the kiss of death...
In reply to Post #96
Pro lite in 15lb is 0.34 and breaks at little more than the stated 15lb,surely for use in weed the xm version or hydro tuff would be superior.
Pro lite in 15lb is 0.34 and breaks at little more than the stated 15lb,surely for use in weed the xm version or hydro tuff would be superior.
In reply to Post #97
I agree with that - when I said pro in previous post I meant pro xm in 20lb / 0.4
I agree with that - when I said pro in previous post I meant pro xm in 20lb / 0.4
In reply to Post #98
Have you used yet? Not seen it in any of my locals to have a look.
Have you used yet? Not seen it in any of my locals to have a look.
In reply to Post #97
You're wasting your breath Goose , as long as it says 15lb on the spool he thinks it's suitable no matter what the diameter is
You're wasting your breath Goose , as long as it says 15lb on the spool he thinks it's suitable no matter what the diameter is
In reply to Post #99
Yes - been using for a while. It's really good, I went through a stage of trying a few and this is my favourite
Yes - been using for a while. It's really good, I went through a stage of trying a few and this is my favourite
In reply to Post #98
I have used the xm it's a good line it only has the dia 0.40 on the spool not the b/s.
I have used the xm it's a good line it only has the dia 0.40 on the spool not the b/s.
In reply to Post #102
And a read through the Gardner site is as conclusive as this thread. They state themselves the tougher lines are underrated to account for different knots etc.
And a read through the Gardner site is as conclusive as this thread. They state themselves the tougher lines are underrated to account for different knots etc.
In reply to Post #103
Yes and the spools when you look online, some have the BS on, and some don't
I think I need a lie down It's all too much, I blame the government
Yes and the spools when you look online, some have the BS on, and some don't
I think I need a lie down
It's all too much, I blame the government
In reply to Post #97
I have tested the Pro before using it, as I do all lines, and it stands up to the weed with no problems.
In fact, it also stands up to branches as well.
After the debacle of Nash Bullet, Every line I use, has been given a full test, best knot, abrasion resistance, line twist even before I use it for fishing.
It amuses me still that a budget line is frequently better than more high priced alternatives.
I have tested the Pro before using it, as I do all lines, and it stands up to the weed with no problems.
In fact, it also stands up to branches as well.
After the debacle of Nash Bullet, Every line I use, has been given a full test, best knot, abrasion resistance, line twist even before I use it for fishing.
It amuses me still that a budget line is frequently better than more high priced alternatives.
In reply to Post #105
What debacle regarding Nash Bullet Nick? I've just put it on one spool, is it a no go?
What debacle regarding Nash Bullet Nick? I've just put it on one spool, is it a no go?
In reply to Post #106
I used it years ago in its first incarnation.
It was horrible and wiry, first fish I hooked took me round a sunken tree branch. Line gave way and I lost the lot.
I was only fishing around 20yards out over a deep channel to the opposite bank.
When the line was slack before tightening, the line was coiling straight back exactly as it was on the line spool.
I used it years ago in its first incarnation.
It was horrible and wiry, first fish I hooked took me round a sunken tree branch. Line gave way and I lost the lot.
I was only fishing around 20yards out over a deep channel to the opposite bank.
When the line was slack before tightening, the line was coiling straight back exactly as it was on the line spool.
In reply to Post #34
Always buy lines by diameter, mono or braid - it's the only constant. Breaking strain means nothing. Can't believe how misinformed some of the comments on this thread are. Then again, carp anglers
Always buy lines by diameter, mono or braid - it's the only constant. Breaking strain means nothing. Can't believe how misinformed some of the comments on this thread are. Then again, carp anglers
In reply to Post #107
Nick in your tests etc you feel Gardner pro line is the best mate ? Is that in 15lb 0.35 ?
Nick in your tests etc you feel Gardner pro line is the best mate ? Is that in 15lb 0.35 ?
In reply to Post #109
I had to grab the spool to check the diameter .
The honest answer is yes, Gardner Pro in 15lb is better than more expensive monos. The only exception to its all round durability was Shimano Catana, which is no longer available.
I used Gardner Pro on Nazeing Meads; the South Lagoon is very weedy and thick. I did not ever have the misfortune to lose a fish because of the line giving way in the weed.
In the past few years Daiwa Sensor has gone downhill, and I don't know why.
Recently I have been playing and testing with Asso Mainline Master, Fluorocarbon Coated in 16lb, (0.35mm).
I found it did occasionally twist and give wind knots on helicopter set-ups, but that could be because I was giving it a whack.
I found it did give shadows on the lakebed if not touching with a tight line.
It has been OK in light growing weed, but I haven't been anywhere near the thick stuff that is bottom to surface on my syndicate.
I had to grab the spool to check the diameter
.The honest answer is yes, Gardner Pro in 15lb is better than more expensive monos. The only exception to its all round durability was Shimano Catana, which is no longer available.
I used Gardner Pro on Nazeing Meads; the South Lagoon is very weedy and thick. I did not ever have the misfortune to lose a fish because of the line giving way in the weed.
In the past few years Daiwa Sensor has gone downhill, and I don't know why.
Recently I have been playing and testing with Asso Mainline Master, Fluorocarbon Coated in 16lb, (0.35mm).
I found it did occasionally twist and give wind knots on helicopter set-ups, but that could be because I was giving it a whack.
I found it did give shadows on the lakebed if not touching with a tight line.
It has been OK in light growing weed, but I haven't been anywhere near the thick stuff that is bottom to surface on my syndicate.
In reply to Post #107
Ah right, the original Bullet was the exact same line as Gardner GR60 (60?).
It's the latest version I've just spooled up with and it seems to be behaving well for a 15lb mono on 10000XTE's. Time will tell.
Ah right, the original Bullet was the exact same line as Gardner GR60 (60?).
It's the latest version I've just spooled up with and it seems to be behaving well for a 15lb mono on 10000XTE's. Time will tell.
In reply to Post #111
Are you sure? Will be interested in how you get on with the new bullet as I liked the original stuff. Anyone know if gr60 is still the same as the original.
Are you sure? Will be interested in how you get on with the new bullet as I liked the original stuff. Anyone know if gr60 is still the same as the original.
In reply to Post #112
Gr60 hasn't changed,still the same as it was a decade ago
Gr60 hasn't changed,still the same as it was a decade ago
In reply to Post #111
I thought gardner gt80 dark was the same as nash bullet, there was also a light blend gt80 at that time before they brought out a gt80+
I thought gardner gt80 dark was the same as nash bullet, there was also a light blend gt80 at that time before they brought out a gt80+
In reply to Post #113
That maybe but hasn't it been around considerably longer than that?
That maybe but hasn't it been around considerably longer than that?
In reply to Post #115
Yeah it's been around for far longer. I've used it for at least the last 10-15 years and it's not changed. Might even be a bit longer than that tbh
Yeah it's been around for far longer. I've used it for at least the last 10-15 years and it's not changed. Might even be a bit longer than that tbh
In reply to Post #110
Too stretchy.
Too stretchy.
In reply to Post #117
22 18:26:23In reply to Post #110
Too stretchy
Monos all stretch between 10 and 25%, and go back to shape.
Fluorocarbon as much as 30%, and doesn't go back to its original.
I would love to see an UK line stretch test as a chart as there are in the USA.
22 18:26:23In reply to Post #110
Too stretchy
Monos all stretch between 10 and 25%, and go back to shape.
Fluorocarbon as much as 30%, and doesn't go back to its original.
I would love to see an UK line stretch test as a chart as there are in the USA.
In reply to Post #118
Quote
Monos all stretch between 10 and 25%, and go back to shape.
Simply not true, pre stretched mono maybe but non pre stretched anything up to 30%.
Flourocarbon mainline take a greater amount of tension being applied before they start to stretch and if compared to mono in like for like diameter's that many use for UK carp fishing ie 0.37 the angler would never apply enough pressure through bending the rod to stretch it.
Quote
Monos all stretch between 10 and 25%, and go back to shape.
Simply not true, pre stretched mono maybe but non pre stretched anything up to 30%.
Flourocarbon mainline take a greater amount of tension being applied before they start to stretch and if compared to mono in like for like diameter's that many use for UK carp fishing ie 0.37 the angler would never apply enough pressure through bending the rod to stretch it.
In reply to Post #118
I use Technium black in 12lb and have had to strip off line because it got stretched and became thinner. I.e did not return to original diameter. This has happened after repeated casting and also when having to pull for a break when a wayward cast ended up in a tree. I always check my line for this especially when using thinner diameters.
I use Technium black in 12lb and have had to strip off line because it got stretched and became thinner. I.e did not return to original diameter. This has happened after repeated casting and also when having to pull for a break when a wayward cast ended up in a tree. I always check my line for this especially when using thinner diameters.
In reply to Post #119
This may interest you
mono vs fluorocarbon vs braid
Somewhere I have also seen a physics test on nylon vs fluorocarbon.
We can see that base fluorocarbon has very low elongation. Elongation is the amount that a material can stretch before breaking. Part of the stretch is elastic - that is the material will return to its original length when the load is removed - part of it is plastic deformation. In deformation the line is permanently lengthened and also weakened. Nylon undergoes stretching in it's elastic phase more or less until it snaps, fluorocarbon deforms quite early in the process of being loaded. Nylon's high elongation allows it to absorb energy, a useful feature when fighting a fish keen to stress test your line but when it's drawn, it increases in strength per diameter but decreases in elongation. Speculation: A thin line (in relation to its strength) will probably have lower shock strength than a thicker line because it will have been stretched more. This brittleness may be exacerbated in fluorocarbon because of its inherently low elongation. So this may be why we hear complaints of fluorocarbon's breakages in circumstances of sudden shock – catching two fish simultaneously, violent dashes for freedom at short range where there is less elasticity in the whole system of rod, line and leader, excessively hard strikes
Reference: https://www.physicsforums.com/threads/struggling-to-understand-stretch-and-strength-in-fishing-line.980753/
This may interest you
mono vs fluorocarbon vs braid
Somewhere I have also seen a physics test on nylon vs fluorocarbon.
We can see that base fluorocarbon has very low elongation. Elongation is the amount that a material can stretch before breaking. Part of the stretch is elastic - that is the material will return to its original length when the load is removed - part of it is plastic deformation. In deformation the line is permanently lengthened and also weakened. Nylon undergoes stretching in it's elastic phase more or less until it snaps, fluorocarbon deforms quite early in the process of being loaded. Nylon's high elongation allows it to absorb energy, a useful feature when fighting a fish keen to stress test your line but when it's drawn, it increases in strength per diameter but decreases in elongation. Speculation: A thin line (in relation to its strength) will probably have lower shock strength than a thicker line because it will have been stretched more. This brittleness may be exacerbated in fluorocarbon because of its inherently low elongation. So this may be why we hear complaints of fluorocarbon's breakages in circumstances of sudden shock – catching two fish simultaneously, violent dashes for freedom at short range where there is less elasticity in the whole system of rod, line and leader, excessively hard strikes
Reference: https://www.physicsforums.com/threads/struggling-to-understand-stretch-and-strength-in-fishing-line.980753/
In reply to Post #120
Technium black was a pre stretched line so although it would still have some stretch left in it for shock absorption I wouldn't expect it to return.
Technium black was a pre stretched line so although it would still have some stretch left in it for shock absorption I wouldn't expect it to return.
In reply to Post #121
Read it last week and agree for most situations in carp angling mono is still best.
Read it last week and agree for most situations in carp angling mono is still best.
In reply to Post #114
You may well be right, I didn't use either of them and was just trying to remember what someone had told me.
You may well be right, I didn't use either of them and was just trying to remember what someone had told me.
There is some bullpoo talked and regularly repeated about how much mono stretches.
Let's have some fact please.
Let's have some fact please.
In reply to Post #125
As pointed out it varies widely, rather than wait for someone to do the testing for you why not do it yourself with your chosen reel line.
As pointed out it varies widely, rather than wait for someone to do the testing for you why not do it yourself with your chosen reel line.
In reply to Post #126
Nash Bullet 0.37 anyone ?
Nash Bullet 0.37 anyone ?
In reply to Post #127
Liked the Gardner Insight, imo really good line, trying out the Berkeley Connect 90, this season, ok so far.
Liked the Gardner Insight, imo really good line, trying out the Berkeley Connect 90, this season, ok so far.
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