Hi guys! I'm fishing a very very weedy water but you cannot use braid! Fishing for drops and tiny little spots in the weed I want to use a mono that has very good reviews for feeling the lead down. I know braid or Fluoro are best for this but I don't want the fluoro sinking into the weed. Any suggestions? Cheers
In reply to Post #1
Hydrotuff. Great sensitivity and hard as nails for the weed
Hydrotuff. Great sensitivity and hard as nails for the weed
I think P Line Extrusion is still one of the lowest stretch mono/copolymer available. There is a guy on eBay who sells it from abroad.
In reply to Post #1
When casting in close behind weed the mainline will make an angle over the weed. As the mainline settles across and behind the weed this will deaden any feel so there will be little feedback through any mono, and very likely not much on braid either.
When casting in close behind weed the mainline will make an angle over the weed. As the mainline settles across and behind the weed this will deaden any feel so there will be little feedback through any mono, and very likely not much on braid either.
In reply to Post #4
Depending on range you can modify your technique to account for this; over-clip a little, rod tip up as high as you can, bring the tip back when you hit the clip and just lower it down into the hole. Tricky but with a bit of practice it can help a great deal.
Depending on range you can modify your technique to account for this; over-clip a little, rod tip up as high as you can, bring the tip back when you hit the clip and just lower it down into the hole. Tricky but with a bit of practice it can help a great deal.
In reply to Post #4
Yeah I get what you're saying mate, but with the marker rod when hitting the spot I'm getting a proper crack, but when trying to get the rods on it i can hardly feel a thing!
Yeah I get what you're saying mate, but with the marker rod when hitting the spot I'm getting a proper crack, but when trying to get the rods on it i can hardly feel a thing!
In reply to Post #2
I've seen a couple things about hydro tuff today and it being good for the drop! 🤔
I've seen a couple things about hydro tuff today and it being good for the drop! 🤔
In reply to Post #1
Use a heavier lead . . .
Use a heavier lead . . .
In reply to Post #6
Do you have braid right though on the marker rod.
Do you have braid right though on the marker rod.
In reply to Post #8
Using 4oz mate
Using 4oz mate
In reply to Post #9
25lb braid with a 50lb shock leader
25lb braid with a 50lb shock leader
In reply to Post #11
Braid right through, 50 lb braid leader like you may have, find spots with braid rod , clip up, line up, sticks, may work
Braid right through, 50 lb braid leader like you may have, find spots with braid rod , clip up, line up, sticks, may work
In reply to Post #12
Yeah my problems not finding spots or getting the wraps but because there's a braid ban I want a mono that's going to give me as much feed back as possible on the drop so I can be confident I'm on the small spots 👍
Yeah my problems not finding spots or getting the wraps but because there's a braid ban I want a mono that's going to give me as much feed back as possible on the drop so I can be confident I'm on the small spots 👍
In reply to Post #13
The problem you have is that most low stretch monos are pre-stretched which in turn means abrasion resistance is massively compromised so no good for proper weed fishing. I'm not sure how the Hydro is so good as it's a proper snag line. It really does everything.
The problem you have is that most low stretch monos are pre-stretched which in turn means abrasion resistance is massively compromised so no good for proper weed fishing. I'm not sure how the Hydro is so good as it's a proper snag line. It really does everything.
vouch for the hydrotuff. Yonny put me on to it and it's great for feeling the drop for a mono, tough as well.
What I would suggest is getting your feel for it refined, go find a spot you can see in the margin or from up a tree or something, feel the drop on braid and then cast to it and feel the drop with mono, you can then check you've cast accurately and get a feel for how the donk on braid translates to the donk on mono.
What I would suggest is getting your feel for it refined, go find a spot you can see in the margin or from up a tree or something, feel the drop on braid and then cast to it and feel the drop with mono, you can then check you've cast accurately and get a feel for how the donk on braid translates to the donk on mono.
Gardner GT -HD seems pretty good to me. Well better than the lines I have previously used.
In reply to Post #16
Its pre-stretched
Its pre-stretched
In reply to Post #1
I'd try Shimano Technium if you can get some , closest thing to braid you can get in my humble opinion
I'd try Shimano Technium if you can get some , closest thing to braid you can get in my humble opinion
In reply to Post #16
My friend swears by gt-hd. I've been using technium and have recently switched to synchro xt . Not enough experience with it to give a realistic appraisal. Seems ok so far.
My friend swears by gt-hd. I've been using technium and have recently switched to synchro xt . Not enough experience with it to give a realistic appraisal. Seems ok so far.
In reply to Post #16
I loved the gt-hd when I used it in 15lb. But it is pre stretched as yonny says so you lose some diameter. Personally I'd put diameter over breaking strain any day. No point having a thin 18lb line like the pb control mono if it'll cut through really easy. Saying that the pb control mono is very good line and perfect for anywhere you needn't worry about cut offs.
I loved the gt-hd when I used it in 15lb. But it is pre stretched as yonny says so you lose some diameter. Personally I'd put diameter over breaking strain any day. No point having a thin 18lb line like the pb control mono if it'll cut through really easy. Saying that the pb control mono is very good line and perfect for anywhere you needn't worry about cut offs.
In reply to Post #17
Aware of that and I use it in 18lb
Aware of that and I use it in 18lb
bring back the art of pulling back after casting i say 
Ha! I remember that
Used to do it in the late 80s using foot long braided hooklinks and still caught fish!!
I think we worry a bit much now
Used to do it in the late 80s using foot long braided hooklinks and still caught fish!!
I think we worry a bit much now
In reply to Post #22
I always used to pull back after casting into silt , gave me a good idea of how deep it was and obviously pulled it out of the deep crap , used to catch using this method no problem
I always used to pull back after casting into silt , gave me a good idea of how deep it was and obviously pulled it out of the deep crap , used to catch using this method no problem
In reply to Post #24
P-Line Extrusion. End of
P-Line Extrusion. End of
In reply to Post #18
I think you'd struggle getting it these days. The modern stuff is not the same as around 10 years ago.
The old technium black in 15 lb was a beast of a line.
I think you'd struggle getting it these days. The modern stuff is not the same as around 10 years ago.
The old technium black in 15 lb was a beast of a line.
In reply to Post #26
Agree, the European stuff from the last few years is not the same.
Agree, the European stuff from the last few years is not the same.
In reply to Post #22
Haven't pulled back for a long time till this year in silt, its worked
But not something I would usually recommend
Haven't pulled back for a long time till this year in silt, its worked
But not something I would usually recommend
In reply to Post #22
I try not to pull back after casting.
Once the lead is touched down I don't want to move anything, especially if using braid hooklinks.
In reply to Post #4
Yeah I get what you're saying mate, but with the marker rod when hitting the spot I'm getting a proper crack, but when trying to get the rods on it i can hardly feel a thing!
If you use braid mainline on your marker rod you will get feel compared to mono on your fishing rods. Mono has nothing like the feel of braid.
It one reason I rarely use distance sticks, preferring to aim at a marker float and getting as close as possible.
For most waters for years I used Daiwa Sensor in 12 or 15lb (12lb in winter), although now I tend to use 15lb Gardner Pro in light or dark.
Believe it or not I try NOT to use fluorocarbon in weedy waters. It is stiffer and can 'sink' into the weed more than mono. I also don't think it as invisible in weed as it is over solid bottom lakes, sand, gravel or clay. I believe in weedy waters lifted off the bottom it casts a shadow.
I try not to pull back after casting.
Once the lead is touched down I don't want to move anything, especially if using braid hooklinks.
In reply to Post #4
Yeah I get what you're saying mate, but with the marker rod when hitting the spot I'm getting a proper crack, but when trying to get the rods on it i can hardly feel a thing!
If you use braid mainline on your marker rod you will get feel compared to mono on your fishing rods. Mono has nothing like the feel of braid.
It one reason I rarely use distance sticks, preferring to aim at a marker float and getting as close as possible.
For most waters for years I used Daiwa Sensor in 12 or 15lb (12lb in winter), although now I tend to use 15lb Gardner Pro in light or dark.
Believe it or not I try NOT to use fluorocarbon in weedy waters. It is stiffer and can 'sink' into the weed more than mono. I also don't think it as invisible in weed as it is over solid bottom lakes, sand, gravel or clay. I believe in weedy waters lifted off the bottom it casts a shadow.
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