Currently using esp syncro loaded been a good line but anything else these days on the market better?
In reply to Post #1
Not really a question with a clear answer. Some cast better, some sink better, some are more abrasion resistant. No one line has it all
Not really a question with a clear answer. Some cast better, some sink better, some are more abrasion resistant. No one line has it all
In reply to Post #1
The normal xt is much nicer than the loaded version.
The normal xt is much nicer than the loaded version.
GR60 green 12lb
In reply to Post #3
I've just started using this on rec from Braders, got to say 1st impressions are very good, it's been dragged through reeds, hung in trees & it's not even scuffed!
I've just started using this on rec from Braders, got to say 1st impressions are very good, it's been dragged through reeds, hung in trees & it's not even scuffed!
In reply to Post #1
ESP Syncro XT NORMAL is a far better line than the loaded
as its a completely different line and one of the best all round monos available IMHO
ESP Syncro XT NORMAL is a far better line than the loaded
as its a completely different line and one of the best all round monos available IMHO
Based on a lot of recommendations on here I spooled up with the Sync XT. I know I'm in a minority but I just couldn't get on with it. I had terrible trouble with it coiling off my reels. Not sure if I got a duff spool of it but it just behaved really badly for me. What I would say is that it cast well, I never got cut off and I landed mid thirties on it without any incident. So in that respect it did what I wanted but it just seemed to coil badly when not under tension. In the end I stripped it off and went back on to GTHD.
In reply to Post #7
What BS were you using? It gets a bit wirery above 15lb.
What BS were you using? It gets a bit wirery above 15lb.
In reply to Post #7
I've used the TA OGX and liked it. ESP Syncro XT is great. I have got on well with the Avid Outline (got a free spool with a reel I bought) and it's been great.
Most of the time line doesn't work for me it's because I didn't check it after landing a fish and it was frayed.
I've used the TA OGX and liked it. ESP Syncro XT is great. I have got on well with the Avid Outline (got a free spool with a reel I bought) and it's been great.
Most of the time line doesn't work for me it's because I didn't check it after landing a fish and it was frayed.
In reply to Post #8
Can't remember the exact breaking strain. We have a 0.40 diameter rule on one of my tickets, so whichever that was. I'm guessing 15 or 18lb.
Can't remember the exact breaking strain. We have a 0.40 diameter rule on one of my tickets, so whichever that was. I'm guessing 15 or 18lb.
In reply to Post #10
15 is 0.37mm so you would be on the 18lb
15 is 0.37mm so you would be on the 18lb
In reply to Post #1
Used PB control for a few yrs -very supple, sinks and decent abrasion.
Used PB control for a few yrs -very supple, sinks and decent abrasion.
Another vote for ESP Syncro XT, use that or original Berkley Big Game. Used to like Berkley Pro Spec Mono for distance casting but it's discontinued now unfortunately.
In reply to Post #7
I have syncro xt 18lb and it seems fine to me.
If you had it coiling then that's down to how you have loaded your spools.
I have syncro xt 18lb and it seems fine to me.
If you had it coiling then that's down to how you have loaded your spools.
In reply to Post #14
It's great line..... when fishing solid bags at range I use the 15 lb which is .37 👍
It's great line..... when fishing solid bags at range I use the 15 lb which is .37 👍
In reply to Post #14
Well I didn't do anything different to any other line I've ever spooled up with and the GTHD that I replaced it with has gone on a treat. What makes me think I might have had a bad spool is because after I posted it on Facebook I had a couple of comments from people that had used it for years without problems and they'd had the same issue as well. So I wonder if there was a dodgy batch. Anyway it was enough for me to say I tried it and it's not for me.
Well I didn't do anything different to any other line I've ever spooled up with and the GTHD that I replaced it with has gone on a treat. What makes me think I might have had a bad spool is because after I posted it on Facebook I had a couple of comments from people that had used it for years without problems and they'd had the same issue as well. So I wonder if there was a dodgy batch. Anyway it was enough for me to say I tried it and it's not for me.
I've been using long Chuck since spring and first off it was really good.. probably the best I've used until recently where the last few meter seem to snap like cotton. Seems to have gone really brittle. Strip back 3 or 4 meter and it's good as new but for the peace of mind I'll be getting rid.
In reply to Post #6
The loaded is one of the worst lines I've ever used. Took it off my spools within 24 hours of spooling up, it coiled terribly. The normal synchro is the best mono I've ever used. Heard good things about thinking anglers ogx but can't see myself ever not using braid or flouro tbh they're much more forgiving.
The loaded is one of the worst lines I've ever used. Took it off my spools within 24 hours of spooling up, it coiled terribly. The normal synchro is the best mono I've ever used. Heard good things about thinking anglers ogx but can't see myself ever not using braid or flouro tbh they're much more forgiving.
In reply to Post #18
It's always amazes me how we all have different experiences. I had the loaded version on my spools for 4 years and think it's a great line. Yes it coils when on the spool but after a cast and getting the line wet the coils disappear and it behaves perfectly and as you would expect sinks really well.
It's always amazes me how we all have different experiences. I had the loaded version on my spools for 4 years and think it's a great line. Yes it coils when on the spool but after a cast and getting the line wet the coils disappear and it behaves perfectly and as you would expect sinks really well.
With so many mixed experiences I'm beginning to wonder if it's how the line is loaded onto the spool for the first time that makes the difference.
I had problems with Shimano Technium coiling when I loaded it with the label of the spool facing the reel..
So I took it off and put new Technium on using the pencil through the spool method and it's been great.
When I say the pencil method I don't actually use a pencil, I do it like this
LINK
I had problems with Shimano Technium coiling when I loaded it with the label of the spool facing the reel..
So I took it off and put new Technium on using the pencil through the spool method and it's been great.
When I say the pencil method I don't actually use a pencil, I do it like this
LINK
This is why braid is the way. Better abrasion, zero stretch and you can load it any way you want.
In reply to Post #21
This is why braid is the way. Better abrasion, zero stretch and you can load it any way you want.
Except for when it's banned
@ Tinhead, when I got my Infinity xbr I'm sure it said in the instructions to load the line with the spool lying flat on the floor, line coming off anti clockwise and I've always done it that way even before from memory, I used to stick a bank stick inner through the line spool and use my feet to apply pressure for loading.
I saw lots of comments about line twist and XT, I watched Matt Eaton (Gardner HD) & Dave Ellyatt (ESP Syncro) vids and I seem to remember a contradiction or something that made me Q , so thought I'd ask Gardner. Chris kindly replied and also said that some of the reviewers with line twist had said they'd loaded it differently to advised. A quote from Chris which I'm sure he'll be fine with
Only one way to load line correctly with all reels except Mitchells ( bale arm rotates clockwise on them) Bulk spool on the floor flat Make sure the line is peeling from the spool in an anti clockwise direction as your balearms rotate this way This will eliminate any possibilities of adding extra twists to your spool A great tip is to soak your bulk spool in relatively warm water for half an hour before loading Loading any other way ie rotating bulk spool or even worse spool wrong way up will add twist not take it away
EDIT, I swapped out Leon Bartropps name above as it wasn't him, it was Matt Eaton as I was also considering Gardner HD at the time. The contradiction that made me Q, Matt Eaton had the line coming off the spool clockwise rotation, Dave Ellyatt was anti clockwise, I'll edit some pics in a min. EDIT 2, if you've already read my post, I e-mailed Paul but it was Chris who replied.
This is why braid is the way. Better abrasion, zero stretch and you can load it any way you want.
Except for when it's banned
@ Tinhead, when I got my Infinity xbr I'm sure it said in the instructions to load the line with the spool lying flat on the floor, line coming off anti clockwise and I've always done it that way even before from memory, I used to stick a bank stick inner through the line spool and use my feet to apply pressure for loading.
I saw lots of comments about line twist and XT, I watched Matt Eaton (Gardner HD) & Dave Ellyatt (ESP Syncro) vids and I seem to remember a contradiction or something that made me Q , so thought I'd ask Gardner. Chris kindly replied and also said that some of the reviewers with line twist had said they'd loaded it differently to advised. A quote from Chris which I'm sure he'll be fine with
Only one way to load line correctly with all reels except Mitchells ( bale arm rotates clockwise on them) Bulk spool on the floor flat Make sure the line is peeling from the spool in an anti clockwise direction as your balearms rotate this way This will eliminate any possibilities of adding extra twists to your spool A great tip is to soak your bulk spool in relatively warm water for half an hour before loading Loading any other way ie rotating bulk spool or even worse spool wrong way up will add twist not take it away
EDIT, I swapped out Leon Bartropps name above as it wasn't him, it was Matt Eaton as I was also considering Gardner HD at the time. The contradiction that made me Q, Matt Eaton had the line coming off the spool clockwise rotation, Dave Ellyatt was anti clockwise, I'll edit some pics in a min. EDIT 2, if you've already read my post, I e-mailed Paul but it was Chris who replied.
In reply to Post #22
Both of those methods rely on the spool with the new line spinning in water.
It's this method that I think causes problems.
LINK
A method that was promoted in the last 20 years or so?
And a method that I think causes problems.
No doubt someone will disagree with me so and so the debate will continue
Both of those methods rely on the spool with the new line spinning in water.
It's this method that I think causes problems.
LINK
A method that was promoted in the last 20 years or so?
And a method that I think causes problems.
No doubt someone will disagree with me so and so the debate will continue
In reply to Post #23
Both of those methods rely on the spool with the new line spinning in water.
No they don't**....lol...as I posted before
when I got my Infinity xbr I'm sure it said in the instructions to load the line with the spool lying flat on the floor, line coming off anti clockwise and I've always done it that way even before from memory, I used to stick a bank stick inner through the line spool and use my feet to apply pressure for loading.
In fact for 20+ years water's never been involved when I spool up, I've only done it the last 2 respools, with Shimano Technium and XT and tbh, I've noticed very little difference.
EDIT ** that's just the way they do it.
Both of those methods rely on the spool with the new line spinning in water.
No they don't**....lol...as I posted before
when I got my Infinity xbr I'm sure it said in the instructions to load the line with the spool lying flat on the floor, line coming off anti clockwise and I've always done it that way even before from memory, I used to stick a bank stick inner through the line spool and use my feet to apply pressure for loading.
In fact for 20+ years water's never been involved when I spool up, I've only done it the last 2 respools, with Shimano Technium and XT and tbh, I've noticed very little difference.
EDIT ** that's just the way they do it.
load it on the spools which way suits best for yourself, get yourself to a big open field,walk your lines out, reel in under tension,job done,and repeat if starts getting lively or coily.
In reply to Post #25
Spin Doctors wre all the rage way back when
Spin Doctors wre all the rage way back when
In reply to Post #26
I didn't get on with them either, just walk the lines out works really well...although I did have an incident with a dog once that I wasn't expecting to be on the field at 0400 after I'd finished nights!!!
I didn't get on with them either, just walk the lines out works really well...although I did have an incident with a dog once that I wasn't expecting to be on the field at 0400 after I'd finished nights!!!
whatever you do, DO NOT load line onto your reels with the spool face up / face down.
it should always be spinning & never coiling off.
manufacturers load the line onto spool with no twist (spinning) & that is how it should come off so that when you load it onto your spool, the bailarm loads it on with a twist for each rotation. when you open the bailarm & cast out, this twist is then 'released / reversed' as the line comes off spool so anything going through your rings has no twist.
the spool facing up / down technique is faux science & completely wrong - I am amazed that companies still advise this - especially gardner as I had a lengthy conversation with Richard Gardner about it over 20 years ago where he tested it & agreed with me.
not only does the spool up twist principle not work but if your reel spool circumference is larger / smaller than the spool your line comes on, you will end up with even more twist - they increase / decrease in size as the line is loaded too. the spool up / down method implies the line is stored on your spool with no twist but seems to forget that a twist is added as it comes off.
it doesn't matter that any companies say - it is one of those stupid bits of advice that has now become a 'fact'. spinning spools - pencil / bankstick / bucket of water & a cloth are all you need.
it should always be spinning & never coiling off.
manufacturers load the line onto spool with no twist (spinning) & that is how it should come off so that when you load it onto your spool, the bailarm loads it on with a twist for each rotation. when you open the bailarm & cast out, this twist is then 'released / reversed' as the line comes off spool so anything going through your rings has no twist.
the spool facing up / down technique is faux science & completely wrong - I am amazed that companies still advise this - especially gardner as I had a lengthy conversation with Richard Gardner about it over 20 years ago where he tested it & agreed with me.
not only does the spool up twist principle not work but if your reel spool circumference is larger / smaller than the spool your line comes on, you will end up with even more twist - they increase / decrease in size as the line is loaded too. the spool up / down method implies the line is stored on your spool with no twist but seems to forget that a twist is added as it comes off.
it doesn't matter that any companies say - it is one of those stupid bits of advice that has now become a 'fact'. spinning spools - pencil / bankstick / bucket of water & a cloth are all you need.
In reply to Post #7
I had exactly the same with the XT in 12lb. Loaded my spools exactly as per the ESP video (which is how I load them anyway, using a cereal container with warm water in). Coiled and twisted all over the place off the spools when slack, and a weekends fishing with it didn't seem to improve it much.
Never had an issue with CM90 or Technium.
I had exactly the same with the XT in 12lb. Loaded my spools exactly as per the ESP video (which is how I load them anyway, using a cereal container with warm water in). Coiled and twisted all over the place off the spools when slack, and a weekends fishing with it didn't seem to improve it much.
Never had an issue with CM90 or Technium.
In reply to Post #27
None of what I'm about to type is meant to be sarcastic, so please don't take it that way, but I'm struggling to understand why I'm not coming across, it could just be me, it happens.
I know the spools show them spinning, I said that in my post and the 2 pictures are clips from the video. If you look at the clips closely enough I think it's fair to say you can see it's a motion shot.
I've said twice that I lay the spool FLAT on the floor, not upright, I also said that I place a bankstick through the spool and use my feet to alter the pressure for loading. I did fail to say 'while spinning' but I thought it obvious.
The only other way I can think of describing the way I do it, the video with the stick through the spool, take away the bucket and water and instead put your feet either side spool on the stick. You don't need water to load line this way.
I hope that clears it up, because if it doesn't I give up or your on a wind up 
None of what I'm about to type is meant to be sarcastic, so please don't take it that way, but I'm struggling to understand why I'm not coming across, it could just be me, it happens.
I know the spools show them spinning, I said that in my post and the 2 pictures are clips from the video. If you look at the clips closely enough I think it's fair to say you can see it's a motion shot.
I've said twice that I lay the spool FLAT on the floor, not upright, I also said that I place a bankstick through the spool and use my feet to alter the pressure for loading. I did fail to say 'while spinning' but I thought it obvious.
The only other way I can think of describing the way I do it, the video with the stick through the spool, take away the bucket and water and instead put your feet either side spool on the stick. You don't need water to load line this way.
I hope that clears it up, because if it doesn't I give up or your on a wind up
In reply to Post #31
So after all that I think we agree
That's the problem with the written word, 'eats shoots and leaves and all that.
So what you are saying is that there's two ways the line can come off.
One coming off the nearer to you, the other way being the furthest from you.
I've not really thought about that before, I wouldn't have thought it made much difference but now you've mentioned I suppose the line coming off furthest from you (as in the second of your pictures) seems the right way?
Or are we still not understanding each other
So after all that I think we agree
That's the problem with the written word, 'eats shoots and leaves and all that.
So what you are saying is that there's two ways the line can come off.
One coming off the nearer to you, the other way being the furthest from you.
I've not really thought about that before, I wouldn't have thought it made much difference but now you've mentioned I suppose the line coming off furthest from you (as in the second of your pictures) seems the right way?
Or are we still not understanding each other
In reply to Post #32
Or are we still not understanding each other
So what you are saying is that there's two ways the line can come off.
It has to have the label turning anti clockwise, so I think that's only 1 way but my head hurts now ...but as someone might already have said what if the labels on the wrong way round 
Or are we still not understanding each other
So what you are saying is that there's two ways the line can come off.
It has to have the label turning anti clockwise, so I think that's only 1 way but my head hurts now
...but as someone might already have said what if the labels on the wrong way round
In reply to Post #33
It has to have the label turning anti clockwise,
That's the last part of the puzzle solved, I know fully understand, hooray!
As I said before I wouldn't thought it would make much difference but in the future I will make sure the label turns anti clockwise
Phew
It has to have the label turning anti clockwise,
That's the last part of the puzzle solved, I know fully understand, hooray!
As I said before I wouldn't thought it would make much difference but in the future I will make sure the label turns anti clockwise
Phew
Ridge monkey flourocast, cast well sinks well and quality abrasion resistance.Spooled clockwise,anticlockwise or upside down.Been using it for a few years never had a problem.
In reply to Post #33
I think you are confusing yourself if you had a label on both sides one would spin clockwise and one would spin anticlockwise as the spool is unwinding.
My take on it is with the spool through the pencil method as you take line the spool can only spin one way as line is coming off if it span the other way line would be going back on
I think you are confusing yourself if you had a label on both sides one would spin clockwise and one would spin anticlockwise as the spool is unwinding.
My take on it is with the spool through the pencil method as you take line the spool can only spin one way as line is coming off if it span the other way line would be going back on
In reply to Post #36
If you mount the spool so it spins on a pencil, then the line can still come off two ways...
It can leave the spool on the far side, or if you twist the spool around then the line can come off on the near side.
One way will be right, and not twist.
You need to do 20 turns then let the line fall slack and see if it's starting to twist.
If you mount the spool so it spins on a pencil, then the line can still come off two ways...
It can leave the spool on the far side, or if you twist the spool around then the line can come off on the near side.
One way will be right, and not twist.
You need to do 20 turns then let the line fall slack and see if it's starting to twist.
In reply to Post #37
But which way is the spool rotating? it either winds on or winds off one side is clockwise one is anti.
Also which ever side you take it from far or near it is still coming off in the opposite orientation to that of which it went on. Compared to line coming off the face of the spool where it isn't coming off the way it went on.
But which way is the spool rotating? it either winds on or winds off one side is clockwise one is anti.
Also which ever side you take it from far or near it is still coming off in the opposite orientation to that of which it went on. Compared to line coming off the face of the spool where it isn't coming off the way it went on.
In reply to Post #38
If unsure then stop after 20 turns and test it. You should do this anyway as there is no guarantee that it's labelled the correct way around.
Don't get hung up on labels and clockwise/counter-clockwise.
If unsure then stop after 20 turns and test it. You should do this anyway as there is no guarantee that it's labelled the correct way around.
Don't get hung up on labels and clockwise/counter-clockwise.
In reply to Post #39
I think your missing my point with a spool through the pencil type if you look at it from one side it is clockwise the other anti but which ever way you take line from front or back the spool it will always rotate in the opposite direction to which the line was loaded. Which i believe will be without any added twist.
I dont believe the labelled correctly matters with that method so im not hung up about it what im trying to imply by that is say for example you have line coming off the front of spool the right hand side of spool will appear to turn clockwise but from the left it will appear to turn anticlockwise basically the spool is rotating to let the line off the way it went on so not adding any extra twists.
now if line is taken off a flat spool obviously it matters a lot one side will add a lot more twist than the other.
I think your missing my point with a spool through the pencil type if you look at it from one side it is clockwise the other anti but which ever way you take line from front or back the spool it will always rotate in the opposite direction to which the line was loaded. Which i believe will be without any added twist.
I dont believe the labelled correctly matters with that method so im not hung up about it what im trying to imply by that is say for example you have line coming off the front of spool the right hand side of spool will appear to turn clockwise but from the left it will appear to turn anticlockwise basically the spool is rotating to let the line off the way it went on so not adding any extra twists.
now if line is taken off a flat spool obviously it matters a lot one side will add a lot more twist than the other.
In reply to Post #36
I think you are confusing yourself if you had a label on both sides one would spin clockwise and one would spin anticlockwise as the spool is unwinding
Nope, I think you're introducing another factor which isn't a issue as far as I'm concerned. In fact come to think of it I don't think I've ever seen a spool with a label on both sides.
I think you are confusing yourself if you had a label on both sides one would spin clockwise and one would spin anticlockwise as the spool is unwinding
Nope, I think you're introducing another factor which isn't a issue as far as I'm concerned. In fact come to think of it I don't think I've ever seen a spool with a label on both sides.
In reply to Post #41
The mention of a label on both sides was to try to question your thinking that the label has to turn anticlockwise
The mention of a label on both sides was to try to question your thinking that the label has to turn anticlockwise
In reply to Post #39
This.
Just try the three different ways when you start reeling. After a few turns stop and pull some line off your reel, then check the twist.
This.
Just try the three different ways when you start reeling. After a few turns stop and pull some line off your reel, then check the twist.
In reply to Post #42
My thinking
You will note in my posts, that I never stated it was my thinking about the label rotating anti clockwise, I clearly stated it was on my Daiwa reel instructions and also quoted from Chris at Gardner, and that I seem to remember having always done it that way, but I've had those reels over 20 years so may be wrong prior to that. You might want to contact Daiwa and Gardner, see if they want to question their thinking.
My thinking
You will note in my posts, that I never stated it was my thinking about the label rotating anti clockwise, I clearly stated it was on my Daiwa reel instructions and also quoted from Chris at Gardner, and that I seem to remember having always done it that way, but I've had those reels over 20 years so may be wrong prior to that. You might want to contact Daiwa and Gardner, see if they want to question their thinking.
Rather than start a new thread, what are peoples suggestions on the best casting mono?
My old man needs a good casting mono for a big pit. Snags etc... are minimal so it doesn't need to be the most abrasion resistant but he's not the best caster out there, so any help he can get from his line would be great.
My old man needs a good casting mono for a big pit. Snags etc... are minimal so it doesn't need to be the most abrasion resistant but he's not the best caster out there, so any help he can get from his line would be great.
In reply to Post #44
Only going off your quote post 33
"It has to have the label turning anti clockwise, so I think that's only 1 way but my head hurts now ...but as someone might already have said what if the labels on the wrong way round"
Only going off your quote post 33
"It has to have the label turning anti clockwise, so I think that's only 1 way but my head hurts now ...but as someone might already have said what if the labels on the wrong way round"
In reply to Post #45
It depends what sort of distance you are after and whether or not you want to fish a line straight through no shock leader or with a leader and stepping down the line dia.
Distances upto around 110, 120 lines such as 15lb syncro and 18lb ogx are ok but a better level line for casting is the gardner pro in 15lb which due to diameter will cast better than the 15lb syncro, people rate the korda longchuck for casting but i havent used this.
Another option is tapered mainlines gardner do the gthd and korda also do tapered mainlines in the longchuck and subline but i personally would avoid the subline,
Im sure others will help you out with more suggestions
It depends what sort of distance you are after and whether or not you want to fish a line straight through no shock leader or with a leader and stepping down the line dia.
Distances upto around 110, 120 lines such as 15lb syncro and 18lb ogx are ok but a better level line for casting is the gardner pro in 15lb which due to diameter will cast better than the 15lb syncro, people rate the korda longchuck for casting but i havent used this.
Another option is tapered mainlines gardner do the gthd and korda also do tapered mainlines in the longchuck and subline but i personally would avoid the subline,
Im sure others will help you out with more suggestions
To answer the op i have no idea. I did find however that the most hyped lines are in my opinion always not living up to that. Jesus the twists in that shimano technium line for instance. It was indeed strong and all that, but at one point it just gave up on behaving normally.
That was just one example of hyped lines which i gave up upon, and went back to just a basic, allround line and respool for a couple of bucks every now and then. You might miss out on a few yards, it might not be the one with the least stretch, but overall they just function as should.
That was just one example of hyped lines which i gave up upon, and went back to just a basic, allround line and respool for a couple of bucks every now and then. You might miss out on a few yards, it might not be the one with the least stretch, but overall they just function as should.
In reply to Post #48
What method did you use to load the Technium onto the reels?
What method did you use to load the Technium onto the reels?
In reply to Post #45
If there are no snags present then look for lines that are thinner than normal for their breaking strain, this is usually because they have been prestretched. By nature these lines will be lightweight and will not sink well.
The only two I have experience of are pro clear which is no longer available and fox Exocet. I found that both were/are reliable and help with casting.
If there are no snags present then look for lines that are thinner than normal for their breaking strain, this is usually because they have been prestretched. By nature these lines will be lightweight and will not sink well.
The only two I have experience of are pro clear which is no longer available and fox Exocet. I found that both were/are reliable and help with casting.
In reply to Post #49
Machine or spool in water. This was when that line got introduced, 20 years ago orso. But i vividly remember swearing like a madman about those twists, you know a loop that just keeps on twisting. More recently samish with that berkley cm90 i think it's called. That's from memory, maybe i remember more examples one day
. But anyways, my 2 cents, and for me an allround line, soft with a bit of stretch, no crazy high bs, just hanging limp is the best compromise and gives the least problems either spooled by machine or with spool in water.
Machine or spool in water. This was when that line got introduced, 20 years ago orso. But i vividly remember swearing like a madman about those twists, you know a loop that just keeps on twisting. More recently samish with that berkley cm90 i think it's called. That's from memory, maybe i remember more examples one day
. But anyways, my 2 cents, and for me an allround line, soft with a bit of stretch, no crazy high bs, just hanging limp is the best compromise and gives the least problems either spooled by machine or with spool in water.
In reply to Post #51
I had problems the first time I used Technium, which coincided with keeping the spool still and allowing the line to come off with the label facing me.
Not had it since I reverted back to the method I described earlier.
I'm not here to promote Technium though, if you have found a line that works for you sick with it.
Don't listen to me or anyone else, we all have our own lived experiences that we inadvertently try to push onto others
In reply to Post #46
I'd start a new thread if I was you, this thread will go off in to multiple tangents
I had problems the first time I used Technium, which coincided with keeping the spool still and allowing the line to come off with the label facing me.
Not had it since I reverted back to the method I described earlier.
I'm not here to promote Technium though, if you have found a line that works for you sick with it.
Don't listen to me or anyone else, we all have our own lived experiences that we inadvertently try to push onto others
In reply to Post #46
I'd start a new thread if I was you, this thread will go off in to multiple tangents
In reply to Post #50
Pro Clear and Fox exocet for me also out of all the lines I've tried these two are superb, really rate the exocet, been using it in 20lb .37mm and brilliant line 👌
Pro Clear and Fox exocet for me also out of all the lines I've tried these two are superb, really rate the exocet, been using it in 20lb .37mm and brilliant line 👌
In reply to Post #1
I've always hated mono and preferred either braid or fluorocarbon . However a friend introduced me to Katran camo carp line and it's been brilliant. Like braid it has no memory so doesn't need straightening all the time like fluoro and has very little stretch. It sinks as fast as the heaviest fluoros that I've used too. It casts really well and the abrasion resistance is very good so far.
I've always hated mono and preferred either braid or fluorocarbon . However a friend introduced me to Katran camo carp line and it's been brilliant. Like braid it has no memory so doesn't need straightening all the time like fluoro and has very little stretch. It sinks as fast as the heaviest fluoros that I've used too. It casts really well and the abrasion resistance is very good so far.
In reply to Post #27
Late response, but like eaton, spinning in water. Or machine which imo isn't bad either.
Late response, but like eaton, spinning in water. Or machine which imo isn't bad either.
In reply to Post #54
Never seen this before? Anyone else used it? Long term fluro user, I am trying very hard to find a non-fluro option (venue ban) that sinks fast and stays down.
Never seen this before? Anyone else used it? Long term fluro user, I am trying very hard to find a non-fluro option (venue ban) that sinks fast and stays down.
In reply to Post #56
I've mentioned it before on this thread but esp synchro XT loaded has the properties you are looking for. As has GR60. I've used both and to be fair both need a cast to remove the coils that form when not in use but after that one cast I have never had any issues with either. The esp line casts slightly better.
I've mentioned it before on this thread but esp synchro XT loaded has the properties you are looking for. As has GR60. I've used both and to be fair both need a cast to remove the coils that form when not in use but after that one cast I have never had any issues with either. The esp line casts slightly better.
In order from fav to least fav, this is what i have used
1. Insight GR60/Gardner GT HD - currently using insight.
2. Thinking Anglers OGX - I spooled it with line twist accidentally but during those times when it behaved, it was excellent, could have been number 1
3. Berkley CM90 - Super tough line, little stretch
4. Daiwa Hyper Sensor/ Maxima Chameleon - used in my early days of fishing on pasty bashing waters, probably still very good and i know the Daiwa line is still recommended by many to this day
I would like to try that UV line the european anglers use called krypton i think. another line i wouldn't mind trying is some of the new Nash offerings.
Ultimately though, when I begin a campaign on a water that allows braid, i will be switching to that immediately.
1. Insight GR60/Gardner GT HD - currently using insight.
2. Thinking Anglers OGX - I spooled it with line twist accidentally but during those times when it behaved, it was excellent, could have been number 1
3. Berkley CM90 - Super tough line, little stretch
4. Daiwa Hyper Sensor/ Maxima Chameleon - used in my early days of fishing on pasty bashing waters, probably still very good and i know the Daiwa line is still recommended by many to this day
I would like to try that UV line the european anglers use called krypton i think. another line i wouldn't mind trying is some of the new Nash offerings.
Ultimately though, when I begin a campaign on a water that allows braid, i will be switching to that immediately.
i really like ultima zero and its not expensive - noone else ever seems to mention it but i think its great
Korda subline sinks well and quickly.
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