I've been looking at some hook sharpening kits. My question is how many are sharpening or are you just replacing them?
In reply to Post #1
I use the Jag file and ngt hook vice, slot cheaper than the Jag alternative. I sharpen nearly all my hooks, only smaller hooks I don't bother with
I use the Jag file and ngt hook vice, slot cheaper than the Jag alternative. I sharpen nearly all my hooks, only smaller hooks I don't bother with
Personally I refuse on principle to purchase products to sharpen supposed pin sharp already purchased products as if u want a cheaper alternative I'll sell my blunt packets of hooks to you half price if your going to sharpen them anyway, win win eh! Any takers 
Actually thinking on my baiting needle has lost its point maybe I'll get the jag setup just for re touching it from time to time 
In reply to Post #1
Most hooks are pretty sharp out of the pack. It takes skill to get them shaper than how you buy them, and can take alot of patience and care. I've had sharpening tools for 7 years or so and only in the last couple of years I've managed to get them a fair bit sharper than out the pack. The Korda shapened hooks are very good and I carry them with me as spares. If I could not shapen hooks myself I would buy them.
Most hooks are pretty sharp out of the pack. It takes skill to get them shaper than how you buy them, and can take alot of patience and care. I've had sharpening tools for 7 years or so and only in the last couple of years I've managed to get them a fair bit sharper than out the pack. The Korda shapened hooks are very good and I carry them with me as spares. If I could not shapen hooks myself I would buy them.
In reply to Post #5
JPrecision hooks come pre-hand sharpened and are very good
Gone back to out of the packet 'standard' hooks this year due to a large number of crayfish, it doesn't take much to knock a point over on a heavily sharpened hook
JPrecision hooks come pre-hand sharpened and are very good
Gone back to out of the packet 'standard' hooks this year due to a large number of crayfish, it doesn't take much to knock a point over on a heavily sharpened hook
I personally always give mine a little touch up from the packet, Adam penning said in a recent video every hook out the pack is blunt to him. I prefer my hooks sticky sharp if that makes sense. I use the jag hook sharpening kit the vice is brilliant I had the ngt one beforehand and the jag one is just miles ahead of it.
What I will say though is that a few companies now actually already do sharpened hooks already, j precision is my favourite by far I love his hooks, Korda do kamakura which are also good but known to be a one fish hook but that doesn't bother me at all, even Gardner do a hand sharpened range aswell now
What I will say though is that a few companies now actually already do sharpened hooks already, j precision is my favourite by far I love his hooks, Korda do kamakura which are also good but known to be a one fish hook but that doesn't bother me at all, even Gardner do a hand sharpened range aswell now
In reply to Post #7
Used to sharpen but never again - decent brand hooks come out the packet good enough nowadays. Sharpening hooks can be the kiss of death in a water that holds a lot of silver fish, crays and gravelly stony bottoms the point turns over to quickly.
Used to sharpen but never again - decent brand hooks come out the packet good enough nowadays. Sharpening hooks can be the kiss of death in a water that holds a lot of silver fish, crays and gravelly stony bottoms the point turns over to quickly.
In reply to Post #8
Agree, unless you're fishing soft, silty bottoms with no nuisance fish,(what are the odds) and even then a dropped take could blunt it.
Also remember each time you sharpen the hook you are turning it into a smaller longshank.
Agree, unless you're fishing soft, silty bottoms with no nuisance fish,(what are the odds) and even then a dropped take could blunt it.
Also remember each time you sharpen the hook you are turning it into a smaller longshank.
In reply to Post #9
I just use them out of the pack they are plenty sharp, check them after a catch if they are crocked if they are dull have that gardner fine stone try it once or twice if it fixes i reuse them, usually i just throw them out and use a new one. I dont know how i feel about sharpening them out of the pack, if i ***** myself and bleed with new hooks just by touching them out of the pack im sure they are plenty sharp for a carp.
I just use them out of the pack they are plenty sharp, check them after a catch if they are crocked if they are dull have that gardner fine stone try it once or twice if it fixes i reuse them, usually i just throw them out and use a new one. I dont know how i feel about sharpening them out of the pack, if i ***** myself and bleed with new hooks just by touching them out of the pack im sure they are plenty sharp for a carp.
In reply to Post #1
Swiss pillar file cut 4. Have a look on ebay, I found it'd better than the jag stuff. A must have for me for resharpening. Also I use j precision hooks have done for 4 years, won't use anything else. They stay sharp even though ridiculously sharp longer than shop bought at the same price. Also to note, he uses the above file and sells 10000s of hooks a year.
Swiss pillar file cut 4. Have a look on ebay, I found it'd better than the jag stuff. A must have for me for resharpening. Also I use j precision hooks have done for 4 years, won't use anything else. They stay sharp even though ridiculously sharp longer than shop bought at the same price. Also to note, he uses the above file and sells 10000s of hooks a year.
In reply to Post #1
I've been sharpening hooks for years, I'd say probably 70% of the time they're sharp enough out of the packet, a lot of times they're not. Especially if they're just in a plastic sleeve as opposed to one of these boxes that mount each hook individually. If they're all kicking around in a packet with the points exposed, it's going to burr some of them some of the time. I guess it depends on the manufacturer, the shop you buy them from and the amount of rattling about they've had, but I'd say that's a fair estimate. At least in my experience.
But anyway, even with a packet sharp hook, after some time in the water, they're going to dull, and it's at those times the sharpening is worth it. I only sharpen them a few times, after a while you've taken too much metal away and the hook isn't the same shape anymore and at that point I bin them, but I definitely get a lot more life out of hooks this way than not sharpening them at all.
I've got the full jag kit, with the file, vice, stones, eye glass etc but to be honest most of the time I can just hold the hook in my fingers and give it 2 or 3 brushes with the file and it's sticky sharp again. If after this it's still not there, I'll use the eye glass to see which side needs an extra file, and in very rare situations I'll put it in the vice. Can't even remember the last time I used the stones.
It takes practice, they key is to sharpen it with as little file work as possible, but for the price of a file and a bit of time invested on some old hooks, it's definitely worth it I'd say.
I've been sharpening hooks for years, I'd say probably 70% of the time they're sharp enough out of the packet, a lot of times they're not. Especially if they're just in a plastic sleeve as opposed to one of these boxes that mount each hook individually. If they're all kicking around in a packet with the points exposed, it's going to burr some of them some of the time. I guess it depends on the manufacturer, the shop you buy them from and the amount of rattling about they've had, but I'd say that's a fair estimate. At least in my experience.
But anyway, even with a packet sharp hook, after some time in the water, they're going to dull, and it's at those times the sharpening is worth it. I only sharpen them a few times, after a while you've taken too much metal away and the hook isn't the same shape anymore and at that point I bin them, but I definitely get a lot more life out of hooks this way than not sharpening them at all.
I've got the full jag kit, with the file, vice, stones, eye glass etc but to be honest most of the time I can just hold the hook in my fingers and give it 2 or 3 brushes with the file and it's sticky sharp again. If after this it's still not there, I'll use the eye glass to see which side needs an extra file, and in very rare situations I'll put it in the vice. Can't even remember the last time I used the stones.
It takes practice, they key is to sharpen it with as little file work as possible, but for the price of a file and a bit of time invested on some old hooks, it's definitely worth it I'd say.
Mate of mine was given some ultra sharp hooks to use ( not J H ) hooked and landed two fish and on unhooking them both the tips had broken off .
In reply to Post #13
That happens with the JH ones too.
That happens with the JH ones too.
In reply to Post #14
I've used loads of the JH hooks and never seen that.
I've used loads of the JH hooks and never seen that.
In reply to Post #15
Only had a few, been a user for a long time and hasn't put me off.
I do think Angling Iron hooks hand sharpened are the best of the minor brands though.
Only had a few, been a user for a long time and hasn't put me off.
I do think Angling Iron hooks hand sharpened are the best of the minor brands though.
It landed a fish what's the big deal?
In reply to Post #17
Leaving the tip/hookpoint in the fish's lip is the big deal.
Leaving the tip/hookpoint in the fish's lip is the big deal.
Never had a point snap on a Jason Hayward hook and agree it would be a big deal to leave the fish with a lump of ferrous metal under its skin.
In reply to Post #19
It's probably more to do with the hook than the sharpening aspect. I stopped using fox hooks as it happened a few times with them, and that's without any sharpening.
I haven't had it with gardner or atomic hooks, either sharpened by jh or done myself
It's probably more to do with the hook than the sharpening aspect. I stopped using fox hooks as it happened a few times with them, and that's without any sharpening.
I haven't had it with gardner or atomic hooks, either sharpened by jh or done myself
In reply to Post #13
Never ever have I ever seen that!!
Trouble is you need to start with a strong material, korda and shop bought stuff is gash blunt so easily.
Jprecision hooks are solid hooks then sharpened til they are like a needle. I bet if he sold them unsharpened they would be blunt. O believe this is due to the way hooks are chemically sharpened in the factory which makes them weaker.
I just touch up the jp hooks as and when I need to but they still stay sharp longer than shop bought. Pretty sure it's Japanese steel instead of Chinese rubbish and uncoated.
Never ever have I ever seen that!!
Trouble is you need to start with a strong material, korda and shop bought stuff is gash blunt so easily.
Jprecision hooks are solid hooks then sharpened til they are like a needle. I bet if he sold them unsharpened they would be blunt. O believe this is due to the way hooks are chemically sharpened in the factory which makes them weaker.
I just touch up the jp hooks as and when I need to but they still stay sharp longer than shop bought. Pretty sure it's Japanese steel instead of Chinese rubbish and uncoated.
In reply to Post #13
What hooks was he given? If the point of a hook is breaking off then it has been sharpened or made badly. You should never sharpen the end of the hook that will be in the fish so much that there is no strength to hold it. Adam Penning said that the reason for his sharpening was to take away a bit of the metal that was above this point, so that once it went in, it would slide in, compared to many hooks that are made and sold en mass that in his words are 'sticky sharp'. But that was his theory anyway. I personally agree with this as a hook that slides in better will have a chance (if only slight) of catching better and stopping the carp from ejecting it. Adam Penning has a whole series on the Carpology channel, including bait, rigs, hook sharpening ect. His approach seems to target big fish, and he has had his fair share of big fish to say the least, and I think that his mindset about hook sharpening may have had an impact on his captures, who knows. But even so, if you have a sharper hook that won't it penetrate better, thus giving a better hook-hold and chance of hooking it in the first place?
What hooks was he given? If the point of a hook is breaking off then it has been sharpened or made badly. You should never sharpen the end of the hook that will be in the fish so much that there is no strength to hold it. Adam Penning said that the reason for his sharpening was to take away a bit of the metal that was above this point, so that once it went in, it would slide in, compared to many hooks that are made and sold en mass that in his words are 'sticky sharp'. But that was his theory anyway. I personally agree with this as a hook that slides in better will have a chance (if only slight) of catching better and stopping the carp from ejecting it. Adam Penning has a whole series on the Carpology channel, including bait, rigs, hook sharpening ect. His approach seems to target big fish, and he has had his fair share of big fish to say the least, and I think that his mindset about hook sharpening may have had an impact on his captures, who knows. But even so, if you have a sharper hook that won't it penetrate better, thus giving a better hook-hold and chance of hooking it in the first place?
These days I'm using smaller hooks and sharpening less. Compare a packet size 6-8 vs sharpended size 4. The smaller packet ones are usually sharper.
In reply to Post #17
we should all give up fishing for carp with hooks then and these dangerous hand sharpened hooked need to be banned.... we should tickle them out instead and try not to break the tail off when we are been slapped in the face with it... come on you sound like you take them to bed ffs if you care that much go round your local lakes asking people not to hook the poor animals in the mouth so you can sit up a tree to watch them????? Come on we go out our way to hook them and try not to but could leave them with a death trap hanging from their bottom lip
we should all give up fishing for carp with hooks then and these dangerous hand sharpened hooked need to be banned.... we should tickle them out instead and try not to break the tail off when we are been slapped in the face with it... come on you sound like you take them to bed ffs if you care that much go round your local lakes asking people not to hook the poor animals in the mouth so you can sit up a tree to watch them????? Come on we go out our way to hook them and try not to but could leave them with a death trap hanging from their bottom lip
In reply to Post #23
Of course they are cos they are a finer wire 🧐🧐
Of course they are cos they are a finer wire 🧐🧐
In reply to Post #22
Jprecision
Jprecision
In reply to Post #26
I've been using them for a very very long time one of the only types hooks I'll use and I can hand on heart say I've never had that happen to me at all even just asked a friend who has used them since they started and he also never had that happen to him, Never had them rust either, ib hooks I've had them go rusty over night so stopped using them.
I've been using them for a very very long time one of the only types hooks I'll use and I can hand on heart say I've never had that happen to me at all even just asked a friend who has used them since they started and he also never had that happen to him, Never had them rust either, ib hooks I've had them go rusty over night so stopped using them.
In reply to Post #27
I bought a packet and funnily enough they appear the same
as carp spirit hooks with a touch up🤣 nice and sharp though
Hooks have got larger and heavier , because if a hook snaps or bends it
declared useless
Buy bigger and sharpen correctly or use smaller thinner gauged hooks would be my advice
*edited apologies 👍🏻
I bought a packet and funnily enough they appear the same
as carp spirit hooks with a touch up🤣 nice and sharp though
Hooks have got larger and heavier , because if a hook snaps or bends it
declared useless
Buy bigger and sharpen correctly or use smaller thinner gauged hooks would be my advice
*edited apologies 👍🏻
In reply to Post #24
Who is that aimed at? You replied to yourself mate.
Who is that aimed at? You replied to yourself mate.
This message has been suppressed by a moderator.
In reply to Post #30
JP hooks strong and sharp as you will ever need. Use these you wont go back to shop ones. Each hook is hand sharpened by Jamie himself. He has also had his own designs made.
JP hooks strong and sharp as you will ever need. Use these you wont go back to shop ones. Each hook is hand sharpened by Jamie himself. He has also had his own designs made.
In reply to Post #26
Maybe a bad batch as many people on here are saying they have never had this happen?
Maybe a bad batch as many people on here are saying they have never had this happen?
Thanks for the advise guys, seems to be a really mixed response across the forum
It looks like I will be purchasing some hooks from jp.
It looks like I will be purchasing some hooks from jp.
Are there any good websites (jewellers) to but files from?
My jag file is worn out..
My jag file is worn out..
In reply to Post #34
How long have you had it, and are sure it's worn out and not clogged up? Hook coatings are a bitch to clean from diamond files, I'd imagine they'd stick to files too eventually. File cleaning cards cost a couple of quid and bring clogged files back into service quickly
If it is dead, I can't recommend anywhere to buy them but vallorbe make excellent files. I prefer a small flat tapered, smooth cut engineering file to the Swiss pillar jewellers files usually recommended, easier to use on hooks with the eye in line with the point. I do like the jag one tho, it's handy not having cutting edges on the sides
Edit, size matters with files, a 6inch smooth cut is a lot finer than a 10inch smooth cut with engineering files
How long have you had it, and are sure it's worn out and not clogged up? Hook coatings are a bitch to clean from diamond files, I'd imagine they'd stick to files too eventually. File cleaning cards cost a couple of quid and bring clogged files back into service quickly
If it is dead, I can't recommend anywhere to buy them but vallorbe make excellent files. I prefer a small flat tapered, smooth cut engineering file to the Swiss pillar jewellers files usually recommended, easier to use on hooks with the eye in line with the point. I do like the jag one tho, it's handy not having cutting edges on the sides
Edit, size matters with files, a 6inch smooth cut is a lot finer than a 10inch smooth cut with engineering files
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