Rich Wilby put a very comprehensive otter fence around his lake, he'd be a good person to reach out to. I don't know if he's on here, but he's quite active on facebook

Daft rules, lakes like this do everyone's head in.
No fixed leads, must be running.... so what about semi fixed? Which is what most people use.
A fixed lead is essentially a lead that is either tied on, or permanently fixed on in some way so it can never come off, which literally nobody has used for about 30 years.
A semi fixed lead is one where it can come off either on the take, or when it gets snagged - as per a lead clip, or a helicopter setup, where the lead can essentially come off if the main line breaks. You can also use something called a C-clip, or a heli-safe which makes a helicopter rig eject the lead like a lead clip would (on the take, or if it got snagged).
There's also ways of tieing up an inline lead so it can come off, but of course those rules are so ambiguous you can't tell.

Best bet would be to speak to a bailif and ask them. Look into the above things I've mentioned, tie up a few, and then show them to the bailif and ask which if any are allowed. If it really is a case of only running leads, then firstly that's stupid, but secondly, you can still catch fish with running leads.

Also, you can use other materials as "leaders" - flurocarbon, for example. It doesn't have to be an expensive shop bought thing made by Korda.

What on earth is a naked rig? Presumably they mean you must have a leader, or a tubing... does that apply to floater fishing as well? Does that mean you can use 8lb line, with a 10lb fluro leader? Which is no different to main line straight through. Daft rules, unfortunately some lakes have em.

It's normal for it to say "no internet access", the float isn't an internet router. As long it says "connected" (regardless of the internet) you're still connected to it and that's all that matters.
Also, it can take a few seconds to bring up the video feed once you go to 192.168.4.101 in the phone's browser, even longer if you've just brought it back up from underwater - sometimes 20 or 30 seconds.
What you also need to do is turn off mobile data on your phone when you're connected to it, this will increase the range.

In reply to Post #1
I've been sharpening hooks for years, I'd say probably 70% of the time they're sharp enough out of the packet, a lot of times they're not. Especially if they're just in a plastic sleeve as opposed to one of these boxes that mount each hook individually. If they're all kicking around in a packet with the points exposed, it's going to burr some of them some of the time. I guess it depends on the manufacturer, the shop you buy them from and the amount of rattling about they've had, but I'd say that's a fair estimate. At least in my experience.
But anyway, even with a packet sharp hook, after some time in the water, they're going to dull, and it's at those times the sharpening is worth it. I only sharpen them a few times, after a while you've taken too much metal away and the hook isn't the same shape anymore and at that point I bin them, but I definitely get a lot more life out of hooks this way than not sharpening them at all.
I've got the full jag kit, with the file, vice, stones, eye glass etc but to be honest most of the time I can just hold the hook in my fingers and give it 2 or 3 brushes with the file and it's sticky sharp again. If after this it's still not there, I'll use the eye glass to see which side needs an extra file, and in very rare situations I'll put it in the vice. Can't even remember the last time I used the stones.
It takes practice, they key is to sharpen it with as little file work as possible, but for the price of a file and a bit of time invested on some old hooks, it's definitely worth it I'd say.

I'm by no means any sort of authority on photography, far from it and my camera isn't half as powerful as yours, but a few things I'd do with the dog shot are - lower the ISO, not sure if that EXIF is for the dog shot or the bridge shot, but with that amount of daylight I would certainly be dropping the ISO from 400. The lower the ISO, the better the quality of the shot and crispness of detail. Outside in the daylight i'd go straight to ISO 80 (which is as low as my camera goes), and as the light fades step this up as necessary.

Also, try increasing shutter speed a bit, it's a still image so should only make things better. The faster the exposure, the less chance you have of getting blurred edges as the shot will pick up less movement.

The aperture needs to be balanced with the exposure, there is a trade off between the amount of light entering the lens and the depth of field (the crispness of things infront and behind the subject). Narrowing the aperture (increasing the f-number) will help to crisp up the the whole of the photo, but a narrow aperture and fast shutter = less light and this may make the picture too dark.

A narrow aperture will have a greater the field of depth, meaning that things infront and behind the subject (whatever the the camera is focusing on) will also be in focus. Usefull for scenic shots of bridges, across lakes, etc where you're not actually focusing on a particular thing.
However because the aperture is narrow and not letting in very much light, you either have to have good natural light, increase the exposure to grab more of the available light - introducing blur with camera shake, or raise the ISO - loosing quality
A wide aperture will have much less field of depth, meaning that the subject item will be in focus but the further things are away from the subject, the more blurred they will be. In its extreme, this can be used to good effect when taking photos of close up subjects making them appear very vivid. The increased aperture size means you can use fast shutter speeds because less light is needed, reducing blur from camera shake.

Exposure is the amount of time the shutter is open for. The longer it is open the more light can enter the lens, however, the side effect of this is that it captures more movement. If you are using the camera hand-held then it is virtually impossible to use an exposure of anything slower than 1/60th of a second and not introduce blur through camera shake. Although if you use a tripod you can keep the camera still and therefore use a narrow aperture to get a greater field of depth with less light. Shots with a long exposure can produce some mad effects. If you've ever seen those shots of a motorway or road at night, where you get the massive streaks of light from the car headlights... thats usually done with a 30 second exposure.

Have a play and see what works best. Take each shot with varying settings and then compare them close up on the PC, which is the acid test really especially for ISO. Two shots can look identical of a 3 inch LCD screen but when you blow them up to full size on the monitor you can see the differences.

In reply to Post #20
I'll add my rather basic 2p's worth.... (which may not be completely right)


p
tv
av
m

Without owning one of these camera i'm just guessing here, but:

P stands for Programme which is where you control ISO and metering but the aperture and exposure are auto calculated for you

TV stands for Time Value which is one of the two semi-auto modes. It means that you manually set the time value of the shutter aka shutter speed aka exposure, and the camera matches the ISO and aperture to what it considers best.

AV I think probably stands for Aperture Value, for what's called Aperture Priority. This is where you manually set the aperture width and the camera automatically sets values for exposure and ISO.

M stands for Manual, where you set everything manually.



Basically you want to get your head around Exposure aka Shutter Speed and Aperture (size/width) to start with.

Exposure (EXP) is the amount of the time the shutter stays open for, which directly effects the amount of light which enters the camera. This is most commonly adjusted for capturing motion, and there is probably a libraries worth of info on this subject alone.

Aperture (AP) is basically the size of the hole which opens in the camera for the picture to be taken. It is adjusted to affect field of depth, i.e. how sharp the stuff around the target is, again a much deeper subject than these two lines of explanation.

The two of these need to balance according to how close/far you are from your target, how much light there is, the depth of field you want, and whether your target is moving or still.


As for ISO, this wants to be as low as possible for better quality shots. High ISO allows you take photos in darker conditions at lower qualities and isn't of much use to the carp angler. Lower ISO requires more light, and therefore ties into AP and EXP.

Metering is how the camera calculates light levels. Multi mode metering, which is generally used will take an average of the light levels and expose the picture accordingly. This is ok if you have a balanced amount of light in the shot. Spot metering will use the light levels of a small area on/around the target. If you are taking a shot of something light against a dark background (the moon for example) or a dark subject on a light background (person with the light behind them) then spot metering will help. There are a few other different types of metering you can read up on also.

Thats a very basic lowdown but shoudl give you the building blocks for research without baffling you...


Research these terms on wikipedia for a better grasp on them.