How many of you sharpen your hooks and have you found its made a difference to your catch rate?
In reply to Post #1
I do. Hard to say about catch rate. So many other variables.
But it takes moments to get them sticky sharp and it certainly can't hurt.
I do. Hard to say about catch rate. So many other variables.
But it takes moments to get them sticky sharp and it certainly can't hurt.
Yes and yes, more so the harder the water.
On harder waters, you'll get a better class of angler and so you must keep up with "best in class".
I'm convinced my UK catches have improved because of sharpening.
What I would say is that there is sharpening and sharpening. I didn't realise how bad I was until I bought prof sharpened hooks of the same make. Once you see these under the magnifying glass, you can copy to know what good looks like. This transformed my abilities and is a top tip
On harder waters, you'll get a better class of angler and so you must keep up with "best in class".
I'm convinced my UK catches have improved because of sharpening.
What I would say is that there is sharpening and sharpening. I didn't realise how bad I was until I bought prof sharpened hooks of the same make. Once you see these under the magnifying glass, you can copy to know what good looks like. This transformed my abilities and is a top tip
In reply to Post #3
A sharper hook will ***** more fish
A sharper hook will ***** more fish
In reply to Post #1
Have a look at Adam Penning talking about hook sharpening on a carpology vid on you tube. Both instructional and informative.
Have a look at Adam Penning talking about hook sharpening on a carpology vid on you tube. Both instructional and informative.
I do sharpen my hooks and keep them all separate in a little box from j precision, I will say I'm not the best at compared to the likes of j precision but like mentioned below the best thing I can say is try to copy what they look like and then you can learn. I do say though I am convinced my catch rate has improved since doing it.
In reply to Post #1
Always use hooks initially fresh from the pack - no need to file IMHO unless they fail the Terry Hearn nail test. . .I'll take his view on this topic over Adam Penning all day long . . .
Other than that I only sharpen mine when they're blunt cos I'm tight and detest paying £4+ for pack . . .if they're still 'doable' after that they get relegated to the barbel tackle box.
Don't go overboard and just give them a couple of strokes with the diamond file primarily . . .rarely use the other Jag files . . .
Always use hooks initially fresh from the pack - no need to file IMHO unless they fail the Terry Hearn nail test. . .I'll take his view on this topic over Adam Penning all day long . . .
Other than that I only sharpen mine when they're blunt cos I'm tight and detest paying £4+ for pack . . .if they're still 'doable' after that they get relegated to the barbel tackle box.
Don't go overboard and just give them a couple of strokes with the diamond file primarily . . .rarely use the other Jag files . . .
In reply to Post #6
Do you think some of his hooks are over sharpened?
Do you think some of his hooks are over sharpened?
In reply to Post #8
If they stick in my nail out the packet i use them, if not sharpen.
If they stick in my nail out the packet i use them, if not sharpen.
In reply to Post #8
Korda ones are I turned one over on the retrieve last week
Korda ones are I turned one over on the retrieve last week
In reply to Post #8
When I first got them I did think they was yeah but since using them a lot I have full confidence in using them, a lot of my friends buy them off him they would rather buy them instead of doing it themselves and they all love them aswell. I do my own now so it doesn't overly bother me but I would definitely use them if I had to, I still have a lot of packs of them for when I fancy using them.
I like using muggas and triggahammers but sharpen them myself, never really use a straight out of the pack anymore. Unless I'm on a day session on a runs water where I no I'll have a few out with the kids
When I first got them I did think they was yeah but since using them a lot I have full confidence in using them, a lot of my friends buy them off him they would rather buy them instead of doing it themselves and they all love them aswell. I do my own now so it doesn't overly bother me but I would definitely use them if I had to, I still have a lot of packs of them for when I fancy using them.
I like using muggas and triggahammers but sharpen them myself, never really use a straight out of the pack anymore. Unless I'm on a day session on a runs water where I no I'll have a few out with the kids
In reply to Post #11
Only use his hooks and Angling Iron, the latter is a better quality hook IMO, sharpens up better, very good straight out of the packet too.
Only use his hooks and Angling Iron, the latter is a better quality hook IMO, sharpens up better, very good straight out of the packet too.
It has to be a no brainer that a sharper hook will catch a fleshy mouth better? I tried the J precision hooks and they are sharp and light but not enough meat on his patterns for how far he takes them for me. I've long been a fan of Gardner hooks, only really use the mugga or the chod for every need and the couple of quid more for JH to sharpen them is enough for me. Plenty left on them to hone them back if they dull after being the water for a bit.
In reply to Post #1
Hi Chris,
I'll probably be going against the grain on this one.
I generally fish nowadays with rigs out for 24 hours at a time and within a mile of a saline line.
Initially I thought the hook sharpening concept was great, but over time I've realised that finely sharpened hooks tend to rust much faster and also tend to blunt very quickly if you're fishing a river or venue with tow.
For me there are enough good quality hooks out there that far outweigh the need for sharpening.
Not saying it's another advertising fad, its just not for me
Best
Jon
Hi Chris,
I'll probably be going against the grain on this one.
I generally fish nowadays with rigs out for 24 hours at a time and within a mile of a saline line.
Initially I thought the hook sharpening concept was great, but over time I've realised that finely sharpened hooks tend to rust much faster and also tend to blunt very quickly if you're fishing a river or venue with tow.
For me there are enough good quality hooks out there that far outweigh the need for sharpening.
Not saying it's another advertising fad, its just not for me
Best
Jon
In reply to Post #14
For me there are enough good quality hooks out there that far outweigh the need for sharpening.
Similar thoughts to me Jon
I use ESP and Nash hooks, very rare I have a problem out of the packet nowadays
I check every hook point when I tie a rig up, before every cast / baiting up and after a fish etc., only then will I consider sharpening it if I think it needs it. I have sharpened hooks for many years, used to use aluminium oxide stones that I got from work before hook sharpening became the trend. I find sharpened hooks blunt easily and like you say some waters, inland for me, the silt and substrate can be quite corrosive or have a detrimental effect on the points. The coatings help for me.
Fine hook points turn over VERY easily especially when fishing gravelly waters! I once posted on here quite a few years ago now and I was fishing a gravel pit with straight pointed hooks, I was getting loads with the points turned over and blunting. My mate was using the new Korda wide gapes at the time with the beaked point and was suffering virtually none compared to me. Used them for quite a few years, brilliant hooks before they upgraded the wire gauge to a larger size.
For me there are enough good quality hooks out there that far outweigh the need for sharpening.
Similar thoughts to me Jon
I use ESP and Nash hooks, very rare I have a problem out of the packet nowadays
I check every hook point when I tie a rig up, before every cast / baiting up and after a fish etc., only then will I consider sharpening it if I think it needs it. I have sharpened hooks for many years, used to use aluminium oxide stones that I got from work before hook sharpening became the trend. I find sharpened hooks blunt easily and like you say some waters, inland for me, the silt and substrate can be quite corrosive or have a detrimental effect on the points. The coatings help for me.
Fine hook points turn over VERY easily especially when fishing gravelly waters! I once posted on here quite a few years ago now and I was fishing a gravel pit with straight pointed hooks, I was getting loads with the points turned over and blunting. My mate was using the new Korda wide gapes at the time with the beaked point and was suffering virtually none compared to me. Used them for quite a few years, brilliant hooks before they upgraded the wire gauge to a larger size.
In reply to Post #14
Those are my feelings too. Always check them out of the packet before use. Rarely find a bad one. If I have a hook blunted I would rather replace it than sharpen it. Good quality modern chemically sharpened hooks do the job.
Those are my feelings too. Always check them out of the packet before use. Rarely find a bad one. If I have a hook blunted I would rather replace it than sharpen it. Good quality modern chemically sharpened hooks do the job.
In reply to Post #1
I sharpen my hooks and as far as I'm concerned it does make a difference, each to their own.
I sharpen my hooks and as far as I'm concerned it does make a difference, each to their own.
At the moment I tend to just sort the best hooks from each packet and bin the blunter ones. All depends upon the pattern. Sometimes I have thrown away nearly whole packets, sometimes they are all good enough....definitely a variation between batches of hooks.
In reply to Post #1
I started sharpening mine this winter using the JAG kit. Main reason was that I had a session on a tricky water where I'm pretty sure I was getting done by the fish. I know Terry Hearn and a bunch of others sharpen theirs so thought I had nothing to lose.
So pleased I did - I had a really good spell late Dec early Jan on my lake with some big commons (big for that lake), a number of the takes were slow and I'm pretty sure the basic sharpening I was doing (not as much as Adam Penning does on his video) was converting pick ups.
So for me now its about confidence and a tiny bit of extra work to get it.
However... the ESP trighammers (love these hooks) don't get much sharpening from me as they are great out of the pack.
I started sharpening mine this winter using the JAG kit. Main reason was that I had a session on a tricky water where I'm pretty sure I was getting done by the fish. I know Terry Hearn and a bunch of others sharpen theirs so thought I had nothing to lose.
So pleased I did - I had a really good spell late Dec early Jan on my lake with some big commons (big for that lake), a number of the takes were slow and I'm pretty sure the basic sharpening I was doing (not as much as Adam Penning does on his video) was converting pick ups.
So for me now its about confidence and a tiny bit of extra work to get it.
However... the ESP trighammers (love these hooks) don't get much sharpening from me as they are great out of the pack.
to but a packet of hooks and bin any of them never mind nearly of them is absolutely disgusting (not by you but by how bad the hooks been) if we bought a pack of floats and 7 of the 10 didn't float would we accept it?? if we bought a 4 pack of light bulbs and 2 didn't work would we be happy?? hook sharpening isn't the answer but it's certainly a solution to wasted hooks
In reply to Post #6
I still use Jason Haywards hand sharpened hook, choose your pattern.
https://johnsonrosstackle.co.uk/1640-hand-sharpened-hooks
Have bent some Trighammers too, sharp though....
I still use Jason Haywards hand sharpened hook, choose your pattern.
https://johnsonrosstackle.co.uk/1640-hand-sharpened-hooks
Have bent some Trighammers too, sharp though....
In reply to Post #12
I do really like them aswell, I've never used angling iron hooks myself but no doubt will do at some point
I do really like them aswell, I've never used angling iron hooks myself but no doubt will do at some point
In reply to Post #1
Yes and yes . End.
Yes and yes . End.
In reply to Post #24
Thanks for the feedback guys.
My local shop had a JAG kit in stock which I grabbed this morning.
Very impressed with the quality.
After watching some tutorials I had a practice on some hooks I had.
Once I got the hang of it and worked out focusing with the eye piece I'm really impressed.
I watched the Adam penning tutorial and now have a more tapered point that's super sticky
Thanks for the feedback guys.
My local shop had a JAG kit in stock which I grabbed this morning.
Very impressed with the quality.
After watching some tutorials I had a practice on some hooks I had.
Once I got the hang of it and worked out focusing with the eye piece I'm really impressed.
I watched the Adam penning tutorial and now have a more tapered point that's super sticky
In reply to Post #25
. . don't think the jag kit includes the black handled diamond file unless I'm mistaken / it does now?
If you really want to get into 're-shaping' hooks to silly sharp points and it wasn't included in your kit then def get one . . ! Prefer the Korda Kama Kote to the Jag pens as well . . .
. . don't think the jag kit includes the black handled diamond file unless I'm mistaken / it does now?
If you really want to get into 're-shaping' hooks to silly sharp points and it wasn't included in your kit then def get one . . ! Prefer the Korda Kama Kote to the Jag pens as well . . .
In reply to Post #26
I've just got the jag kit and it has the black handle file included, mine was inside the hook vice. Decent bit of kit 👍🏼
I've just got the jag kit and it has the black handle file included, mine was inside the hook vice. Decent bit of kit 👍🏼
In reply to Post #27
Does it fit with the green and red stones? My black one is longer . . (ooooeer)
Does it fit with the green and red stones? My black one is longer . . (ooooeer)
In reply to Post #28
Swiss pillar cut 4 file is the one you want.
Swiss pillar cut 4 file is the one you want.
In reply to Post #23
After reading that you just know, every thread about hook sharpness will have some muppet piping up with "I don't need to sharpen my hooks coz I know how to test them"
My favourite, most reliable hooks aren't the sharpest out of the packet, I'd probably be rejecting at least half of the bat if I didn't spend all of 30 seconds to sharpen them.
After reading that you just know, every thread about hook sharpness will have some muppet piping up with "I don't need to sharpen my hooks coz I know how to test them"
My favourite, most reliable hooks aren't the sharpest out of the packet, I'd probably be rejecting at least half of the bat if I didn't spend all of 30 seconds to sharpen them.
The Jag kit does come with the black handled file as standard and the red and green handled stones stored inside the vice handle... the file.is to long to get inside the vice handle
The Nash hook doctor whilst being a bit extravagent is amazing....
Super sharp hooks get blunted quicker, a few seconds with the doctors brings them back to ultimate sharpness. I use a jag eye to check them regardless of how sharp i think it is day or night.
Your results will speak for themselves....
Super sharp hooks get blunted quicker, a few seconds with the doctors brings them back to ultimate sharpness. I use a jag eye to check them regardless of how sharp i think it is day or night.
Your results will speak for themselves....
I've sharpened hooks on diamond stones right up to an 8000 grit Japanese water stone, like a polished hypodermic needle. IMO it's a waste of time. You need a sharp point but as little material removed as possible.
The jag stones and keen eye is all you need to maintain a good enough point to catch fish
The jag stones and keen eye is all you need to maintain a good enough point to catch fish
In reply to Post #33
Amateur, you need to go to naguri stone level as a minimum
The only real benefit with the super fine grades is better rust resistance
Amateur, you need to go to naguri stone level as a minimum
The only real benefit with the super fine grades is better rust resistance
In reply to Post #34
I had to google naguri stone. Can't work out whether that's fine, ultra fine, coarse or anything in between.
Tell me more please
I had to google naguri stone. Can't work out whether that's fine, ultra fine, coarse or anything in between.
Tell me more please
In reply to Post #35
Very fine Bob, the ones I get are labelled 8000 grit but are a lot finer than an 8000 grade jap stone, I use it to get scratches out of glass. I keep an old one in my tackle box now to use after the file, the jag stones are great but I find them a bit fiddly, after 20 years in the building game my hands aren't the most nimble
Very fine Bob, the ones I get are labelled 8000 grit but are a lot finer than an 8000 grade jap stone, I use it to get scratches out of glass. I keep an old one in my tackle box now to use after the file, the jag stones are great but I find them a bit fiddly, after 20 years in the building game my hands aren't the most nimble
In reply to Post #34
Have tried all sorts mate. The missus brother in law is a chippy from Japan, the skill is next level!! Can't work out Blum hinges though lol
Should've seen his face when I touched up a few plane irons on a bit of mdf with car polish
Works though!
Have tried all sorts mate. The missus brother in law is a chippy from Japan, the skill is next level!! Can't work out Blum hinges though lol
Should've seen his face when I touched up a few plane irons on a bit of mdf with car polish
Works though!
In reply to Post #36
As a matter of interest what files and stones do you use from start to finish.
I'm a bit lazy and use little more than a Jag file.
As a matter of interest what files and stones do you use from start to finish.
I'm a bit lazy and use little more than a Jag file.
In reply to Post #38
That's all you need really mate. While an über fine stone is a nice thing to have it is not only overkill, but will wear out way quicker than a diamond plate and needs maintaining with a combination of diamond or natural coarser stones to flatten and nagura stones for cleaning/fine tuning. It's a great idea to have something to hand for final tidying up like Duggs, but I'd suggest you need to be a bit tasty for it to be worthwhile.
Just buy a tormek and rig it up to your car battery, that'll show the Nash grinder users what's what
That's all you need really mate. While an über fine stone is a nice thing to have it is not only overkill, but will wear out way quicker than a diamond plate and needs maintaining with a combination of diamond or natural coarser stones to flatten and nagura stones for cleaning/fine tuning. It's a great idea to have something to hand for final tidying up like Duggs, but I'd suggest you need to be a bit tasty for it to be worthwhile.
Just buy a tormek and rig it up to your car battery, that'll show the Nash grinder users what's what
In reply to Post #14
my grandfather taught me to check the hook and when to sharpen them some 40 years ago. However I tend to only sharpen them when they need it.
my grandfather taught me to check the hook and when to sharpen them some 40 years ago. However I tend to only sharpen them when they need it.
In reply to Post #37
That's proper craftsmanship mate would take a while to get the belt Sander marks out with that tho.
Bob, the jag kit is perfect for most people, I use what I do because I have it anyway. I'll end up with similar results using expensive diamond products as I would with a chopstick with wet and dry stuck to the flat edges, so I use the tools that fit my hand better. When it's cold that'll be a nice fine vallorbe tapered file and a nagura stone, when it warms up the chopstick is usually the most used
That's proper craftsmanship mate
would take a while to get the belt Sander marks out with that tho.Bob, the jag kit is perfect for most people, I use what I do because I have it anyway. I'll end up with similar results using expensive diamond products as I would with a chopstick with wet and dry stuck to the flat edges, so I use the tools that fit my hand better. When it's cold that'll be a nice fine vallorbe tapered file and a nagura stone, when it warms up the chopstick is usually the most used
In reply to Post #41
Not with a 9” grinder as your medium grit and if you're really skilled it turns pretty colours!!
Not with a 9” grinder as your medium grit and if you're really skilled it turns pretty colours!!
In reply to Post #41
Before the Jag kits were available and it was all over youtube I used to use a bit of finishing paper. People used to tell me you shouldn't muck about with things like that, just change the hook. Those people were using G-Hards at the time at £1 a pop.
Before the Jag kits were available and it was all over youtube I used to use a bit of finishing paper. People used to tell me you shouldn't muck about with things like that, just change the hook. Those people were using G-Hards at the time at £1 a pop.
In reply to Post #43
I bought some of them in my early days, felt completely blunt after coming from super specialists.
The coatings used are the main culprit for blunt hooks straight out the pack, easily fixed with a couple of strokes of something fine
I bought some of them in my early days, felt completely blunt after coming from super specialists.
The coatings used are the main culprit for blunt hooks straight out the pack, easily fixed with a couple of strokes of something fine
In reply to Post #44
Listening to the latest podcast Danny fairbrass was saying even he doesn't use their Kamakura hooks as their just too sharp and he's lost fish down to it,I prefer their standard hooks beaked points and a little sharpen myself
Listening to the latest podcast Danny fairbrass was saying even he doesn't use their Kamakura hooks as their just too sharp and he's lost fish down to it,I prefer their standard hooks beaked points and a little sharpen myself
In reply to Post #32
So expensive though...
So expensive though...
In reply to Post #47
Too far imo, the bottom 2 look like they'll go blunt if a bleak farts in the vicinity.
Grab a pack of Jason Haywards hooks, that is the standard your aiming for
Too far imo, the bottom 2 look like they'll go blunt if a bleak farts in the vicinity.
Grab a pack of Jason Haywards hooks, that is the standard your aiming for
In reply to Post #48
I was thinking it was too much tbh, it's definitely an art that requires practice for sure.
I was thinking it was too much tbh, it's definitely an art that requires practice for sure.
In reply to Post #33
I think you deffo need a Jag eye or similar to know if your hook is sharp enough, you just can't do this without it.
Hooks feel and look sharp, use the eye and you'll see you can improve them, 2 mins later you have proper sharp hooks
I think you deffo need a Jag eye or similar to know if your hook is sharp enough, you just can't do this without it.
Hooks feel and look sharp, use the eye and you'll see you can improve them, 2 mins later you have proper sharp hooks
In reply to Post #47
I think these are OK but you have so little strength due to them being so well worked, you can make them work by adjusting the rig mechanics but if these hit a harder part of the mouth there likely to be of no use.
An overweighted popup would be okay as it would target the bottom lip
I think these are OK but you have so little strength due to them being so well worked, you can make them work by adjusting the rig mechanics but if these hit a harder part of the mouth there likely to be of no use.
An overweighted popup would be okay as it would target the bottom lip
In reply to Post #47
To honed for me, sticky sharp yet I'd worry I want a hook that stays the rest of several fish and that's what I've always concentrated on. Imo These would need to be replaced after each fish each to hire own though, I'm lazy
To honed for me, sticky sharp yet I'd worry I want a hook that stays the rest of several fish and that's what I've always concentrated on. Imo These would need to be replaced after each fish each to hire own though, I'm lazy
In reply to Post #47
To honed for me, sticky sharp yet I'd worry I want a hook that stays the rest of several fish and that's what I've always concentrated on. Imo These would need to be replaced after each fish each to hire own though, I'm lazy
To honed for me, sticky sharp yet I'd worry I want a hook that stays the rest of several fish and that's what I've always concentrated on. Imo These would need to be replaced after each fish each to hire own though, I'm lazy
In reply to Post #52
Tbh it depends on what kind of water someone is fishing, if you expect to catch a lot of fish all the time then yeah I agree a one fish hook would be a much but if you fish a low stocked lake that only a couple fish a year or even one or two a session they are worth it in my opinion
Tbh it depends on what kind of water someone is fishing, if you expect to catch a lot of fish all the time then yeah I agree a one fish hook would be a much but if you fish a low stocked lake that only a couple fish a year or even one or two a session they are worth it in my opinion
In reply to Post #54
Or you could sit there all year for 1 or 2 pick ups but the point has turned over in a stiff breeze.
Just another one to add to the list of excuses for unnecessary practice and purchases by those struggling.
By all means, make sure the hook has a good point, but don't compromise it ffs. If you're that bored read a book or knock one out.
Not you personally
Or you could sit there all year for 1 or 2 pick ups but the point has turned over in a stiff breeze.
Just another one to add to the list of excuses for unnecessary practice and purchases by those struggling.
By all means, make sure the hook has a good point, but don't compromise it ffs. If you're that bored read a book or knock one out.
Not you personally
In reply to Post #55
These hand sharpened hooks for me are too sharp and far too weak,I've gone back so size 4 wide gape's which I'll hand sharpen the point ever so slightly
These hand sharpened hooks for me are too sharp and far too weak,I've gone back so size 4 wide gape's which I'll hand sharpen the point ever so slightly
In reply to Post #55
Was wondering for a minute if you meant me 🤣 yeah I do agree you do have to be careful how far you go with it, I do thing the j precision hooks are fine though, I've not found them to be a one fish hook
Was wondering for a minute if you meant me 🤣 yeah I do agree you do have to be careful how far you go with it, I do thing the j precision hooks are fine though, I've not found them to be a one fish hook
I'm.more than happy to use one hook a fish unless its a runs water and then it's just out of the packet jobby.
In reply to Post #55
Never bothered in all my time fishing. Just straight out the packet, if it scratches my nail it's sharp enough for a fishes mouth lol.
Never bothered in all my time fishing. Just straight out the packet, if it scratches my nail it's sharp enough for a fishes mouth lol.
In reply to Post #47
The points have been sharpened far too much in my opinion.
Without a doubt the points will turn over without much resistance.
And that could lead to the hook not penetrating very deeply into the mouth.
The other major problem with barbless hooks that are sharpened to that degree is that under pressure they can move and slice the inside of the mouth.
The points have been sharpened far too much in my opinion.
Without a doubt the points will turn over without much resistance.
And that could lead to the hook not penetrating very deeply into the mouth.
The other major problem with barbless hooks that are sharpened to that degree is that under pressure they can move and slice the inside of the mouth.
In reply to Post #60
Sharpened my hooks for a long time, makes total sense, fine line between getting them right and not. Could also lead to the hook points breaking off and staying in the fishes mouth, easy to blunt a hook on a fishes mouth, wonder what people's thoughts are on metallic splinters?
Not a knock at all, it's what we do, again though, it's publicised beyond belief and every man and his dog is now doing it
Makes me wonder though
Sharpened my hooks for a long time, makes total sense, fine line between getting them right and not. Could also lead to the hook points breaking off and staying in the fishes mouth, easy to blunt a hook on a fishes mouth, wonder what people's thoughts are on metallic splinters?
Not a knock at all, it's what we do, again though, it's publicised beyond belief and every man and his dog is now doing it
Makes me wonder though
In reply to Post #61
Definitely think you are right there. And tbh it's the reason I buy sharpened hooks rather than sharpen myself. I know I would get carried away and look for the finest point possible.
I do think if not done properly, and as you say splinters are oeft, there could be a chance of infection potentially
Definitely think you are right there. And tbh it's the reason I buy sharpened hooks rather than sharpen myself. I know I would get carried away and look for the finest point possible.
I do think if not done properly, and as you say splinters are oeft, there could be a chance of infection potentially
In reply to Post #62
It will be interesting to see if more and fish start to turn up with duff lips?
Still, we put a hook through their lips and turn them over on the hard areas, that's fishing I guess
It will be interesting to see if more and fish start to turn up with duff lips?
Still, we put a hook through their lips and turn them over on the hard areas, that's fishing I guess
In reply to Post #61
That's why I stopped using the fox medium curves, nice and sharp out the pack but I had a few occurrences where the point had sheared off. I could give them another go if it was points going over but I'm not comfortable leaving the points in a carp. Shame as they seemed a perfect replacement for my favourite jrc 360s. That's without any sharpening BTW.
I like atomic and Gardner hooks for sharpening, really hard but don't shear as easily as the fox
That's why I stopped using the fox medium curves, nice and sharp out the pack but I had a few occurrences where the point had sheared off. I could give them another go if it was points going over but I'm not comfortable leaving the points in a carp. Shame as they seemed a perfect replacement for my favourite jrc 360s. That's without any sharpening BTW.
I like atomic and Gardner hooks for sharpening, really hard but don't shear as easily as the fox
In reply to Post #64
Were those fox ones the one in the green plastic boxes in foam, tried some once, agree, very sharp and long narrow points,,blunted easy, if so 
Were those fox ones the one in the green plastic boxes in foam, tried some once, agree, very sharp and long narrow points,,blunted easy, if so
In reply to Post #65
No those hooks have been discontinued and the new range is just in plastic wallets, even sharper points but very brittle judging by the ones I tried
No those hooks have been discontinued and the new range is just in plastic wallets, even sharper points but very brittle judging by the ones I tried
In reply to Post #66
Not tried the new ones. I used Fox hooks in the past. I used the original series 2 for quite a few years, good little sharp hooks, amazing how we have moved on, probably a floater grade wire hook these days
Not tried the new ones. I used Fox hooks in the past. I used the original series 2 for quite a few years, good little sharp hooks, amazing how we have moved on, probably a floater grade wire hook these days
In reply to Post #67
I used the arma points range a lot in the past, over the years I found hooks I preferred in certain patterns so didn't buy any fox hooks for a few years, despite rating them pretty highly. The medium curves seemed perfect but I was going through a hook per cast.
The Gardner crv riggas are decent and sharpen nicely
I used the arma points range a lot in the past, over the years I found hooks I preferred in certain patterns so didn't buy any fox hooks for a few years, despite rating them pretty highly. The medium curves seemed perfect but I was going through a hook per cast.
The Gardner crv riggas are decent and sharpen nicely
In reply to Post #68
Think those are the ones in the boxes, arma points mate, could be wrong?
Same as you, not many I haven't tried over the years. Mainly ESP and Nash for me nowadays
Think those are the ones in the boxes, arma points mate, could be wrong?
Same as you, not many I haven't tried over the years. Mainly ESP and Nash for me nowadays
In reply to Post #69
Yeh that's right, still use the boxes for my sharpened atomic chods
Yeh that's right, still use the boxes for my sharpened atomic chods
In reply to Post #70
Decent hooks the atomic Chodda's
Decent hooks the atomic Chodda's
In reply to Post #71
My favourite chod type hook, I'm only carrying them and Gardner crv riggas at the moment. I'll give the trig hammers another go this year, dropped a few fish on barbless ones last year, I think at one point 5 out of 8 runs over a couple of weeks.
Not particularly blaming the esp hook, I just don't have a good record with barbless longshank in general
My favourite chod type hook, I'm only carrying them and Gardner crv riggas at the moment. I'll give the trig hammers another go this year, dropped a few fish on barbless ones last year, I think at one point 5 out of 8 runs over a couple of weeks.
Not particularly blaming the esp hook, I just don't have a good record with barbless longshank in general
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