Has anyone used a diamond dusted nail file for buffing/sharpening your hooks..?

A piece of leather will do also

In reply to Post #1
Yes. Have done for a long time. I only
ever give a hook the lightest of touches usually when I have checked a hook that is in use that has lost its sting. Just quicker than re rigging.
Don't ever bother sharpening new hooks, it's like sharpening a new razor blade.

In reply to Post #3
Don't ever bother sharpening new hooks, it's like sharpening a new razor blade.

That's not accurate buddy. Razors are mechanically sharpened. Standard fishing hooks are chemically sharpened. The chemical process cannot achieve anything like the same results as mechanical sharpening. Mechanical sharpening will improve any standard hook.

In reply to Post #4
Quote Yonny edited.

That's not accurate buddy. Razors are mechanically sharpened. Standard fishing hooks are chemically sharpened. The chemical process cannot achieve anything like the same results as mechanical sharpening. Mechanical sharpening will weaken any standard hook.

In reply to Post #1
I've used a few of these but to be honest they are great when you buy them but the diamond dusting soon wears off. I now have a small 700 grit stone which if used lightly will improve the sharpness of any "straight out of the packet" hook, and won't damage it either as it's really just taking the coating off. It's not so good for sharpening blunt hooks, it's too fine and takes ages, you need a lower grit stone for that but for touching up hooks either out the packet or after they have been in the water a while it's brilliant and will last forever.

In reply to Post #5
Cant argue with that. It's true it'll weaken hooks, you need to know what you're doing.

Edit: wasn't my intention to start a for/against sharpening debate so apologies to the OP. Was just pointing out that sharpening a new hook is v different to a new razor blade.

In reply to Post #1
Sharpened my hooks for a LONG time, well before it got fashionable

Used to work for a company that used 1000s of aluminium oxide stones (Same as what people are trying to sell now). Used to pay pence for them and they probably still are! Used to get trial samples of all grades for free too. Long time ago I posted on here and we discussed it, sent a 'high profile' carp angler some samples who was on here at the time, he was interested

All depends on the grades, Same with files but for me you will not get a finish like you do with stones

I have tried several files, Taska did on with ridge's in it, not bad for a quick tickle if you can find one, I have the jag one's, again not bad

All depends how you want to sharpen the hooks for me, I don't go for the long thin points, blunt and break off too easily, out of the packet usually use a stone but that's after checking the tips for being bent or inturned, in this case it's a file or the bin

If I'm honest the Jag kits are quite resonable, expensive for what they are but anybody looking at having a go I would say try these

In reply to Post #1
I'd imagine a nail file will be a fairly coarse grade, OK for shaping but you may not achieve a very fine point. Another thing, coarse grades of abrasives increase the surface area leading to rust a lot quicker, it's surprising the difference it makes when I'm to lazy to polish the points with the ultra fine abrasives

Eze-Lap diamond file fine (600 grit) for restoring a point, and a super fine ceramic stone (feels smooth to the touch) to polish and finish a hook point.
Mostly I re-touch with the ceramic and that's well good enough.
I never try and reprofile hook points to the degree of some of these guys who shave them down to surgical points.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Eze-lap-Hand-Fine-Grit-Individual-Diamond-Needle-File-600G-608F-/303305075409?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

You can also get an extra fine (1200 grit) eze-lap file that will sharpen without taking too much off

https://woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/eze-lap-diamond-lap-file-super-fine-grit-1200-blue/?gclid=CjwKCAjwjZmTBhB4EiwAynRmD_yROfxaNjTjx-drTkx5pEXEkQ32WDOuQXq7FX-lkJhtwHbzmOVWRRoCnRkQAvD_BwE

In reply to Post #10
Decent price

Thanks for answers...Good stuff..

See,what I normally use is the gardner red sharpening rubber fandango thingy...its OK for buffing up slightly dull points ,had it ages..

Then my Mrs bought two of those dusted nail files,I thought aha,I'll 'borrow one of they'...then I thought ,wonder if any of the carpforum members have tried one of the dusteds,

Hence my post...

In reply to Post #12
As mentioned in post 10 below, the eze-lap files I have are 600 grit (fine), 1200 grit (superfine) and a ceramic knife sharpener (not graded) that is smoother still.

I copied this from a nail file site...

There are so many types of nail files. How do I know which one to use?
The different types of nails files are designed for different uses, so it is important to select the right one. For natural nails, a fine-grit cushion file is gentle yet effective. Basically, the higher the grit number, the smoother the file. Coarse files (80-100 grit) are best for acrylic nail extensions. Medium files (180 grit) are best to shape extensions of medium thickness, like most tips and wraps, and to shape the free edge of toenails. Fine files (240-600 grit) are best for removing small bumps, ridges or discolorations and for shaping the free edge of natural nails. Ultra fine files (600-2400 grit) are used for buffing and shining all types of nails.

In reply to Post #13
Thanks for lap file information, appreciated..


(The problem I have with nail files is filing my extensions down the lake,especially after a big hit..oooohh,the looks I get ,I'm not sure if they are well jel of my red varnish or my carp)

😄👌

In reply to Post #14
You could make your own, a thin strip of steel, such as a snapped hacksaw blade, with a couple of different grades of wet and dry glued to either side. A bit of experimenting to find the right grades and you're away. When it wears out, just make another for pennies.