My days 😂😂, I'm more confused than ever!!
Think I'll revisit this loaded with caffeine with my work brain engaged, might get a more accurate result!!
Thanks for helping though bud 👍
Think I'll revisit this loaded with caffeine with my work brain engaged, might get a more accurate result!!
Thanks for helping though bud 👍
In reply to Post #16
Post / PM me when you've ascertained the capacity / dia rating on the spools you have - once confirmed I'll do the calcs for you no probs! Cheers
Post / PM me when you've ascertained the capacity / dia rating on the spools you have - once confirmed I'll do the calcs for you no probs! Cheers
In reply to Post #14
@Belch
Thinking about it and to your point maybe it is a constant - ie a single bail arm revolution on a tight line still retrieves a constant 107cms (or whatever) but at the start of spool filling rotates the current spool diameter more times - the line rotates around the spool less the more it fills . . ?
I think you've hit the nail on the head there mate. You're right
The distance travelled by the bailarm (line roller) is the distance that's relevant, not the diameter of the spool being wound onto....
@Belch
Thinking about it and to your point maybe it is a constant - ie a single bail arm revolution on a tight line still retrieves a constant 107cms (or whatever) but at the start of spool filling rotates the current spool diameter more times - the line rotates around the spool less the more it fills . . ?
I think you've hit the nail on the head there mate. You're right
The distance travelled by the bailarm (line roller) is the distance that's relevant, not the diameter of the spool being wound onto....
I buy a roll of 100mm line in say 15lb maxima for every spool I want to fill.
Wind that on and then just wind the line I want on top.
If most spools take 300m then it's only going to take 200m of “decent” line to fill it up.
Too mAny headaches any other way.
Wind that on and then just wind the line I want on top.
If most spools take 300m then it's only going to take 200m of “decent” line to fill it up.
Too mAny headaches any other way.
In reply to Post #19
With mono thats fine as its relatively cheap - prob is with Fluro is its expensive - and 200M is on the cusp of too much wastage / too little spooled with your method (depending on the range plus emergency backer you are willing to fish) . . . this is made worse by bulk spools or really expensive median sized spools (eg PB Ghost Dragonfly) which is 400M / £75 so you def need to be able to split it 50/50 or worst case over 3x rods (only ever using at short range) accurately to avoid wastage / underfilling . . .as well as not having to reverse spool which is unnecessary and negates all line prep / spooling in the right direction / line twist!
With mono thats fine as its relatively cheap - prob is with Fluro is its expensive - and 200M is on the cusp of too much wastage / too little spooled with your method (depending on the range plus emergency backer you are willing to fish) . . . this is made worse by bulk spools or really expensive median sized spools (eg PB Ghost Dragonfly) which is 400M / £75 so you def need to be able to split it 50/50 or worst case over 3x rods (only ever using at short range) accurately to avoid wastage / underfilling . . .as well as not having to reverse spool which is unnecessary and negates all line prep / spooling in the right direction / line twist!
In reply to Post #19
The way i done it was bought a cheap digital calipers and some cheap line the same thickness as the good line say 0.35mm.
Loaded the spool from empty to full with the cheap line.
Set up some distance sticks and removed 250m of line.
Measured the diameter of the spool with line on, wrote this down,
Loaded other spools with the same cheap line until the diameter was the same.
Then i knew all spools would have exactly 250m of line.
I then store this in notes on my iPad, so for all my reels i know the diameter i need for 250m of line for various line diameters and spools.
This may seems like a faff, but I change my line at least once a year, and i keep my reels for ages and only really change if they are getting worn out.
P.S. I used to be an aircraft engineer so get very anal about measurements etc.
The way i done it was bought a cheap digital calipers and some cheap line the same thickness as the good line say 0.35mm.
Loaded the spool from empty to full with the cheap line.
Set up some distance sticks and removed 250m of line.
Measured the diameter of the spool with line on, wrote this down,
Loaded other spools with the same cheap line until the diameter was the same.
Then i knew all spools would have exactly 250m of line.
I then store this in notes on my iPad, so for all my reels i know the diameter i need for 250m of line for various line diameters and spools.
This may seems like a faff, but I change my line at least once a year, and i keep my reels for ages and only really change if they are getting worn out.
P.S. I used to be an aircraft engineer so get very anal about measurements etc.
In reply to Post #21
Matching backing line diameter with intended mainline diameter def helps simplify the practical element of this problem. . . however no need for timely line twist creation - just work it out from the calculator app - simples!
My question is how do you spool up with TAPERED main-line accurately without having to guess / reverse / use a spare spool . . . . . .answers on a postcard!
Matching backing line diameter with intended mainline diameter def helps simplify the practical element of this problem. . . however no need for timely line twist creation - just work it out from the calculator app - simples!
My question is how do you spool up with TAPERED main-line accurately without having to guess / reverse / use a spare spool . . . . . .answers on a postcard!
In reply to Post #20
It's not too much as once it's worn you can reverse it even if you are at the lake.
The easiest method by far is to use another spool.
Or buy a line counter and hook that onto the rod and wind it through until you get the measurement you want.
How I said to do it is how I did it when I spooled up with x line.
I bought 3 spools of it and only had a little left over on each spool.
This way worked for me..
How much do we as anglers waste over the course of a year
I'm certainly not going to worry about a few quid extra on one shot spools.
It's not too much as once it's worn you can reverse it even if you are at the lake.
The easiest method by far is to use another spool.
Or buy a line counter and hook that onto the rod and wind it through until you get the measurement you want.
How I said to do it is how I did it when I spooled up with x line.
I bought 3 spools of it and only had a little left over on each spool.
This way worked for me..
How much do we as anglers waste over the course of a year
I'm certainly not going to worry about a few quid extra on one shot spools.
In reply to Post #18
You were right the first time.
The only thing constant is the distance the bailarm travels which will always be further than amount of line going onto the reel. The diameter of the spool is changing so the amount of line being loaded onto it will change as the spool fills up.
It's only a small amount but on smaller spools it can make a difference(3.14 x the difference in depth)
I have tried counting the handle rotations but it never seems to be the same for me. I always prefer the spare spool method but have also used the distance sticks too & use a couple of sets. One for the backing & one for the line. Thankfully it only needs to be done once as the backing stays on my spools forever.
Unlike Belch, I prefer to under fill my spools on my big pits as it helps prevent wind knots - especially with braid.
The MOST important thing in all of this is making sure that you load line off the manufacturers spool with a pencil through it (spinning) & any line coming off a reel spool is done with the bail arm open. This will help prevent any excessive twist.
You were right the first time.
The only thing constant is the distance the bailarm travels which will always be further than amount of line going onto the reel. The diameter of the spool is changing so the amount of line being loaded onto it will change as the spool fills up.
It's only a small amount but on smaller spools it can make a difference(3.14 x the difference in depth)
I have tried counting the handle rotations but it never seems to be the same for me. I always prefer the spare spool method but have also used the distance sticks too & use a couple of sets. One for the backing & one for the line. Thankfully it only needs to be done once as the backing stays on my spools forever.
Unlike Belch, I prefer to under fill my spools on my big pits as it helps prevent wind knots - especially with braid.
The MOST important thing in all of this is making sure that you load line off the manufacturers spool with a pencil through it (spinning) & any line coming off a reel spool is done with the bail arm open. This will help prevent any excessive twist.
In reply to Post #22
Fill spool with tapered line.
Fill rest of spool up with backing to preferred fill level.
Remove backing onto distance sticks.
Remove tapered line onto different set of distance sticks
Load backing from distance sticks.
Load tapered line from distance sticks.
I have got 9 spools I need to redo before the spring & am dreading it. Loads of new braid with a different diameter to my usual stuff as well as reversing some braid on existing spools. One of the most boring tasks ever...
Fill spool with tapered line.
Fill rest of spool up with backing to preferred fill level.
Remove backing onto distance sticks.
Remove tapered line onto different set of distance sticks
Load backing from distance sticks.
Load tapered line from distance sticks.
I have got 9 spools I need to redo before the spring & am dreading it. Loads of new braid with a different diameter to my usual stuff as well as reversing some braid on existing spools. One of the most boring tasks ever...
The Weston 5000t deep spools take 460 metres of 0.35mm line, so basically wind your 200 metres of Kontour on, fill the spool with the backing line.
Then remove only the backing line leaving the Kontour on the spool and top up the spool again with a second lot of backing line attached to the Kontour and then wind all that onto your 2nd spool so the backing goes on first followed by the Kontour. If it's not right, too much or too little backing, just wind it back again and readjust the backing line with a good guesstimate.
Then put that first lot of backing you had and removed back onto the empty spool and then add your other spool of 200 metres of Kontour.
For multiple spools more than 2, once you have the required amount of mainline on a spool, you then only have to keep topping up the spool with backing line and winding just that backing line onto all the spools you have, except one which you will fill by winding on the backing line with mainline that you pre measured on your first spool. Then for that spool you just emptied, add the pre measured backing line you should have done earlier then top up with mainline. You could easily do 3 spools in 15 minutes.
There is no need to go walking about on playing fields using measuring sticks etc, we are anglers, not ramblers.
The best way to remove line is, get a plastic bottle, preferably with sides that curve inwards like the 750ml coke bottles. Drill a hole in the cap that is big enough to take a long bolt. Put a big washer on the bolt and thread it through the hole from the inside of the cap, add another big washer and then a nut and tighten it up, stick the bolt in a drill with the cap screwed back onto the bottle.
Tie the line to the bottle, slowly start the drill and once the line is biting into the bottle and not slipping, go "full bore" with the drill and it takes seconds at 3000+rpm to remove the line. And when your done, keep the cap with bolt for another day, The caps are all same size and fit any plastic bottle as a rule.
Then remove only the backing line leaving the Kontour on the spool and top up the spool again with a second lot of backing line attached to the Kontour and then wind all that onto your 2nd spool so the backing goes on first followed by the Kontour. If it's not right, too much or too little backing, just wind it back again and readjust the backing line with a good guesstimate.
Then put that first lot of backing you had and removed back onto the empty spool and then add your other spool of 200 metres of Kontour.
For multiple spools more than 2, once you have the required amount of mainline on a spool, you then only have to keep topping up the spool with backing line and winding just that backing line onto all the spools you have, except one which you will fill by winding on the backing line with mainline that you pre measured on your first spool. Then for that spool you just emptied, add the pre measured backing line you should have done earlier then top up with mainline. You could easily do 3 spools in 15 minutes.
There is no need to go walking about on playing fields using measuring sticks etc, we are anglers, not ramblers.
The best way to remove line is, get a plastic bottle, preferably with sides that curve inwards like the 750ml coke bottles. Drill a hole in the cap that is big enough to take a long bolt. Put a big washer on the bolt and thread it through the hole from the inside of the cap, add another big washer and then a nut and tighten it up, stick the bolt in a drill with the cap screwed back onto the bottle.
Tie the line to the bottle, slowly start the drill and once the line is biting into the bottle and not slipping, go "full bore" with the drill and it takes seconds at 3000+rpm to remove the line. And when your done, keep the cap with bolt for another day, The caps are all same size and fit any plastic bottle as a rule.
In reply to Post #26
Good for two reels but still does not negate reverse spooling on the third - unless your willing to leave 200M of redundant expensive mainline on a spare (4th) spool and repeat the process . . .
Good for two reels but still does not negate reverse spooling on the third - unless your willing to leave 200M of redundant expensive mainline on a spare (4th) spool and repeat the process . . .
In reply to Post #27
Course it works on 3 spools or as many spools as you want, by filling one spool with the correct amount of mainline, you then measure out 3 lots of backing line by topping up that spool and just removing the backing line for two of them. Put one lot of backing line on a spare spool and top up with mainline line, that is one spool done. Then transfer from the first spool to the second, backing line with mainline attached, that's two spools done and also empties that first spool. And then you just wind on the third backing line you have precut and top up with mainline and that is the third spool done.
Nothing could be simpler.
Course it works on 3 spools or as many spools as you want, by filling one spool with the correct amount of mainline, you then measure out 3 lots of backing line by topping up that spool and just removing the backing line for two of them. Put one lot of backing line on a spare spool and top up with mainline line, that is one spool done. Then transfer from the first spool to the second, backing line with mainline attached, that's two spools done and also empties that first spool. And then you just wind on the third backing line you have precut and top up with mainline and that is the third spool done.
Nothing could be simpler.
It's only line, just buy bulk spools and the heck with what's left, it's peanuts compared to the other costs and more vital than the latest rod/reel/Fairbrass endorsed stuff.
In reply to Post #1
You said you've got 2 extra on the way which implies you have others your using at present.
Wind the line off 1 your presently using onto anything giving you the spare spool you require to load your new one, then load the old line back onto your spool...sorted
You said you've got 2 extra on the way which implies you have others your using at present.
Wind the line off 1 your presently using onto anything giving you the spare spool you require to load your new one, then load the old line back onto your spool...sorted