In reply to Post #1
Overall leaking on a bivvy is more likley to be crap seams. The Chinese will do anything to cut costs and make an extra penny.
Just run some seam sealer on your seams on the inside of your bivvy. Should help the leaking no end.
Had my Mk1 Tempest brolly from the day they came out and never reproofed it. Has a skull cap and and open front.
I dont look after my kit either but a bit of seam sealer on cracked or loose seams works for me.
Overall leaking on a bivvy is more likley to be crap seams. The Chinese will do anything to cut costs and make an extra penny.
Just run some seam sealer on your seams on the inside of your bivvy. Should help the leaking no end.
Had my Mk1 Tempest brolly from the day they came out and never reproofed it. Has a skull cap and and open front.
I dont look after my kit either but a bit of seam sealer on cracked or loose seams works for me.
In reply to Post #16
The Chinese will do anything to cut costs and make an extra penny.
That's not always the case mate. I audit manufacturers in China. For sure, some are a joke, but others are up there with the best in the world.
The Chinese will do anything to cut costs and make an extra penny.
That's not always the case mate. I audit manufacturers in China. For sure, some are a joke, but others are up there with the best in the world.
In reply to Post #17
I can only speak from personal experience.
And what you order and what you get from them is usually two different things.
I can only speak from personal experience.
And what you order and what you get from them is usually two different things.
In reply to Post #18
As I understand it its the PU membrane on the fabric that is the "waterproof" bit, some more expensive fabrics use a breathable membrane that is also waterproof. The outer fabric/nylon simply adds robustness to the structure/garment. The fabric is impregnated with something that repel's the water - it doesnt make it waterproof per-sey - so in fabsil its the silicon in it that repels the water away (i.e. bead off) without it the outer fabric becomes water logged and eventually will make it through the water proof membrane. So the point of the repellency is to keep the water away from the delicate waterproof membrane
Fabsil (and most "water proofers" of the same ilk) simply disolve silicon in a solvent, you then apply the solvent containing the disolved silicon on the material and the material absorbs it. The solvent then evaporates leaving behind the silcon on the fibers of the fabric. This silicon will come away over time, and hence needs replacing to rejuvenate the repellency (beading) on the fabric.
Some bivvys clearly use better materials than others - the membrane on my M3 is a lot thicker than my tempest brolly - and hence would stand up to a lot more water on it before it leaked.
....so in a long-winded way - fabsil makes the water bead away from the fabric and the inner membrane, but alone doenst make the material waterproof - if your shelter leaks like a sieve then it sound like the membrane is pretty ****ed. Time for a new bivvy as fabsil is unlikely stop every bit of water making it through.
But I agree with the others - be sure its penetrating and not just condensation before throwing away your hard-earnt.
As I understand it its the PU membrane on the fabric that is the "waterproof" bit, some more expensive fabrics use a breathable membrane that is also waterproof. The outer fabric/nylon simply adds robustness to the structure/garment. The fabric is impregnated with something that repel's the water - it doesnt make it waterproof per-sey - so in fabsil its the silicon in it that repels the water away (i.e. bead off) without it the outer fabric becomes water logged and eventually will make it through the water proof membrane. So the point of the repellency is to keep the water away from the delicate waterproof membrane
Fabsil (and most "water proofers" of the same ilk) simply disolve silicon in a solvent, you then apply the solvent containing the disolved silicon on the material and the material absorbs it. The solvent then evaporates leaving behind the silcon on the fibers of the fabric. This silicon will come away over time, and hence needs replacing to rejuvenate the repellency (beading) on the fabric.
Some bivvys clearly use better materials than others - the membrane on my M3 is a lot thicker than my tempest brolly - and hence would stand up to a lot more water on it before it leaked.
....so in a long-winded way - fabsil makes the water bead away from the fabric and the inner membrane, but alone doenst make the material waterproof - if your shelter leaks like a sieve then it sound like the membrane is pretty ****ed. Time for a new bivvy as fabsil is unlikely stop every bit of water making it through.
But I agree with the others - be sure its penetrating and not just condensation before throwing away your hard-earnt.
If you are convinced that your shelter fabric is letting in water and have decided that to re-proof the exterior fabric is the only viable option then don't paint it on with a brush or sponge.
Buy a large pump atomiser (garden centre, pet shop or el cheapo shop) and spray it as a fine mist on a dry day. This will prevent the sealer being pushed into the membrane and sealing the microscopic breathing holes in it.
But as has been said I've got nylon Bivvies going back 25 years and two Aqua Union Jack badged bivvies that have never been touched which are still waterproof
Buy a large pump atomiser (garden centre, pet shop or el cheapo shop) and spray it as a fine mist on a dry day. This will prevent the sealer being pushed into the membrane and sealing the microscopic breathing holes in it.
But as has been said I've got nylon Bivvies going back 25 years and two Aqua Union Jack badged bivvies that have never been touched which are still waterproof
In reply to Post #13
100%
Last time I re-proofed anything was my old Nash canvas oval bivvy - canvas does need re-prooing now and again.
If it's leaking and you can't see a hole - clean it and dry it properly. Bet it's cured.
100%
Last time I re-proofed anything was my old Nash canvas oval bivvy - canvas does need re-prooing now and again.
If it's leaking and you can't see a hole - clean it and dry it properly. Bet it's cured.
In reply to Post #21
Great bit of kit Keebs but combination of Nash canvas over a 50" wavelock was murder to carry home on the bus along with all the other kit carried for a couple of nights session if you wern't able to dry it out before leaving.Couple of times I had to stay longer than intended for just that reason and a couple of times fellow carpers took pity on me and gave me a lift home
Great bit of kit Keebs but combination of Nash canvas over a 50" wavelock was murder to carry home on the bus along with all the other kit carried for a couple of nights session if you wern't able to dry it out before leaving.Couple of times I had to stay longer than intended for just that reason and a couple of times fellow carpers took pity on me and gave me a lift home
In reply to Post #21
Great bit of kit Keebs but combination of Nash canvas over a 50" wavelock was murder to carry home on the bus along with all the other kit carried for a couple of nights session if you wern't able to dry it out before leaving.Couple of times I had to stay longer than intended for just that reason and a couple of times fellow carpers took pity on me and gave me a lift home. I leave the tech stuff to the more knowledgeable posters that answer you.
Great bit of kit Keebs but combination of Nash canvas over a 50" wavelock was murder to carry home on the bus along with all the other kit carried for a couple of nights session if you wern't able to dry it out before leaving.Couple of times I had to stay longer than intended for just that reason and a couple of times fellow carpers took pity on me and gave me a lift home. I leave the tech stuff to the more knowledgeable posters that answer you.
In reply to Post #7
OCD
Good idea, think I'm going to do my chair
OCD
Good idea, think I'm going to do my chair
In reply to Post #24
i use to use brick sealer but its not as good now a days, could leave my chair in the rain,great for river stalking when waterproof, and i did my matt to stop them getting soaked and heavy , and smelly, and i had a flat with no shed etc
i use to use brick sealer but its not as good now a days, could leave my chair in the rain,great for river stalking when waterproof, and i did my matt to stop them getting soaked and heavy , and smelly, and i had a flat with no shed etc
In reply to Post #23
I had the canvas over a 50". Not that I'm the type of person to put the door down but I reckon if you did you could put a light show and strobe in there and no light would escape.
I put some canvas waterproofer on it and it turned a strange yellow colour
I had the canvas over a 50". Not that I'm the type of person to put the door down but I reckon if you did you could put a light show and strobe in there and no light would escape.
I put some canvas waterproofer on it and it turned a strange yellow colour
In reply to Post #21
I had one. It's where i learnt the phrase . " Don't touch the tent" . canvas shrinks the gaps between the fibres when it gets wet so becomes heavier and doesn't leak. unless you poke it, and make a gap for the water to come through.. Canvas is bloody heavy, especially when wet but it's warm in the winter.
I had one. It's where i learnt the phrase . " Don't touch the tent" . canvas shrinks the gaps between the fibres when it gets wet so becomes heavier and doesn't leak. unless you poke it, and make a gap for the water to come through.. Canvas is bloody heavy, especially when wet but it's warm in the winter.
Still got mine - I'm going to see if I can get it to peg down over my MHR brolly and resurrect it this winter.
(Nash Oval Profile long gone!).
I don't think they made many ovals in canvas.
There was something very cosy about hearing the rains dull thud
(Nash Oval Profile long gone!).
I don't think they made many ovals in canvas.
There was something very cosy about hearing the rains dull thud
Diver dave's 'repel' waterproofing, now that takes some beating...