I've been watching some online videos and reading some articles on this, and i have a few basic questions i'd like clarification on:
1. once the marker float is in the position you want it, the marker rod gets set aside on the bank, and reeled in at the end of the session, correct?
2. if the marker rod is always occupied with the marker float, i then need another rod and reel specifically for spodding, is that correct?
3. bank sticks for setting casting distance - i can hearing X amount of wraps. Is there a universal distance people are using between the marker sticks?
4. marker elastic - what is the best knot to use to attach marker elastic to my mainline?
5. Spod or spomb, which to use? I did a little spombing last year and found it hard to cast, i reckon i'd get on better with a spod, they look much more aerodynamic. Does it just come down to personal prefference which one of these people use?
Very basic questions i know, but i'm a newb
Thanks
1. once the marker float is in the position you want it, the marker rod gets set aside on the bank, and reeled in at the end of the session, correct?
2. if the marker rod is always occupied with the marker float, i then need another rod and reel specifically for spodding, is that correct?
3. bank sticks for setting casting distance - i can hearing X amount of wraps. Is there a universal distance people are using between the marker sticks?
4. marker elastic - what is the best knot to use to attach marker elastic to my mainline?
5. Spod or spomb, which to use? I did a little spombing last year and found it hard to cast, i reckon i'd get on better with a spod, they look much more aerodynamic. Does it just come down to personal prefference which one of these people use?
Very basic questions i know, but i'm a newb
Thanks
In reply to Post #1
Once the marker is on the spot, clip up and reel in, set sticks 12ft apart and count how many times you wrap around them before reaching the clip then pack marker rod up and set you fishing rods to the same number of wraps and standing back on the same spot you cast the marker from cast the fishing rod, it pays when you cast the mark to look for a feature beyond the marker float and remember it so you are casting back in the correct direction.
Once the marker is on the spot, clip up and reel in, set sticks 12ft apart and count how many times you wrap around them before reaching the clip then pack marker rod up and set you fishing rods to the same number of wraps and standing back on the same spot you cast the marker from cast the fishing rod, it pays when you cast the mark to look for a feature beyond the marker float and remember it so you are casting back in the correct direction.
In reply to Post #1
You have PM
You have PM
In reply to Post #1
1. I tried doing that years ago whilst fishing for Bream at Lochmaben with a heavy feeder before I got distance sticks.
Despite giving a generous few degrees of latitude to counter a strong wind, the feeder hit the marker float dead on at the first cast smashing it to pieces and causing two tangled lines....Oh how I laughed.
2. A marker rod can be easily used for spodding....just don't overload the spod/spomb. I would also use one of my main rods if the are 3lb plus to spod or mark with if travelling light and not going to put a full bucket in. It's nice having numerous rods for different purposes...sometimes it's nicer not to overcomplicate things by taking a full tackle shop worth's of gear.
3.Folk use the length of their rod to to set their sticks distance apart . This was before sticks were supplied with a rope
so as most anglers used 12ft rods this became the norm.
4. Pass...I use the same stop knot as I do for slider fishing and mark the line with a sharpie .
5.Different strokes for different folks. I use a spomb for sloppy mixes with a lot of hemp sludge in it. Spods cause less heartbreak over their loss if you crack off.
1. I tried doing that years ago whilst fishing for Bream at Lochmaben with a heavy feeder before I got distance sticks.
Despite giving a generous few degrees of latitude to counter a strong wind, the feeder hit the marker float dead on at the first cast smashing it to pieces and causing two tangled lines....Oh how I laughed.
2. A marker rod can be easily used for spodding....just don't overload the spod/spomb. I would also use one of my main rods if the are 3lb plus to spod or mark with if travelling light and not going to put a full bucket in. It's nice having numerous rods for different purposes...sometimes it's nicer not to overcomplicate things by taking a full tackle shop worth's of gear.
3.Folk use the length of their rod to to set their sticks distance apart . This was before sticks were supplied with a rope
so as most anglers used 12ft rods this became the norm.
4. Pass...I use the same stop knot as I do for slider fishing and mark the line with a sharpie .
5.Different strokes for different folks. I use a spomb for sloppy mixes with a lot of hemp sludge in it. Spods cause less heartbreak over their loss if you crack off.
Further additions for the questions that haven't been fully answered, other than my answers the ones posted already are all good -
4) no need to use marker elastic on the mainline, just reel the rod in and re-wrap to the same amount which takes a couple of minutes and put the mainline in the line clip on the reel. Try not to hit the clip too hard when casting to prevent too much bounce back, some people even leave their lines in the clip if they are sitting right next to their rods - The stretch in the mono mainline will allow the fish to move to some extent setting your alarm off (if using one) allowing you enough time to get the rod in hand.
5) Spods lose some of the bait on the cast, creating a wide spread of bait, spombs don't take long to get used to and create a tight bed of bait when clipped up to a distance. Small spombs not over loaded should be fine on a standard carp rod circa 3lb + Test curve. It may be a good idea to use a shock leader on anything over about 4oz, or fishing 60yds + to prevent any crack offs.
Hope that helps.
4) no need to use marker elastic on the mainline, just reel the rod in and re-wrap to the same amount which takes a couple of minutes and put the mainline in the line clip on the reel. Try not to hit the clip too hard when casting to prevent too much bounce back, some people even leave their lines in the clip if they are sitting right next to their rods - The stretch in the mono mainline will allow the fish to move to some extent setting your alarm off (if using one) allowing you enough time to get the rod in hand.
5) Spods lose some of the bait on the cast, creating a wide spread of bait, spombs don't take long to get used to and create a tight bed of bait when clipped up to a distance. Small spombs not over loaded should be fine on a standard carp rod circa 3lb + Test curve. It may be a good idea to use a shock leader on anything over about 4oz, or fishing 60yds + to prevent any crack offs.
Hope that helps.
In reply to Post #1
If you go back 10 years most anglers would take a dedicated spod rod and a dedicated marker rod, but these days marker work has gone out of fashion a bit.
My recommendation would be to buy one spod rod and use it for both marker and spod/spomb. A large loop in the end of your braid shockleader will allow you to change from spomb to marker set up pretty easily.
Once you have found your ‘spot' with the marker rod. Make a note of a horizon marker in line with your marker float - a tree, a pilon, a dip in the hedge or whatever. iReel the marker float down to the lead, clip up, wrap the distance out on your distance sticks so you know he distance to set your fishing rod. You can the. Swap your marker for the spomb and apply your bait. Clip your fishing rods at the same distance and away you go.
As mentioned, if you're using distance sticks there's really no need to use marker elastic.
If you go back 10 years most anglers would take a dedicated spod rod and a dedicated marker rod, but these days marker work has gone out of fashion a bit.
My recommendation would be to buy one spod rod and use it for both marker and spod/spomb. A large loop in the end of your braid shockleader will allow you to change from spomb to marker set up pretty easily.
Once you have found your ‘spot' with the marker rod. Make a note of a horizon marker in line with your marker float - a tree, a pilon, a dip in the hedge or whatever. iReel the marker float down to the lead, clip up, wrap the distance out on your distance sticks so you know he distance to set your fishing rod. You can the. Swap your marker for the spomb and apply your bait. Clip your fishing rods at the same distance and away you go.
As mentioned, if you're using distance sticks there's really no need to use marker elastic.
In reply to Post #6
Wrong if you find spot and clip up and recast you will be short of your spot because of the swing back when feeling the lead down you must allow for the swing back.
Wrong if you find spot and clip up and recast you will be short of your spot because of the swing back when feeling the lead down you must allow for the swing back.
In reply to Post #7
Some people clip their spod slightly shorter than the fishing rods to allow for swing back but u less you're fishing in very deep water it makes little difference. You're also better off having your hookbaits on the near side of a baited area anyway.
With regards clipping up your fishing rods they should be clipped up the same as your marker, you don't need to adjust for the swing back as your marker lead has already swung back.
Some people clip their spod slightly shorter than the fishing rods to allow for swing back but u less you're fishing in very deep water it makes little difference. You're also better off having your hookbaits on the near side of a baited area anyway.
With regards clipping up your fishing rods they should be clipped up the same as your marker, you don't need to adjust for the swing back as your marker lead has already swung back.
In reply to Post #8
Agreed it's been discussed many times and that's the conclusion many of us have come to.
There's a couple of Fox Youtube videos featuring Rob Hughes that discusses it.
Agreed it's been discussed many times and that's the conclusion many of us have come to.
There's a couple of Fox Youtube videos featuring Rob Hughes that discusses it.
In reply to Post #8
Surely the “near side” depends on which side the fish are approaching from?
Surely the “near side” depends on which side the fish are approaching from?
In reply to Post #4
Mant thanks folks, all good advice, notes taken.
Mant thanks folks, all good advice, notes taken.
In reply to Post #10
I was referring to the side nearest the rods.
I was referring to the side nearest the rods.
In reply to Post #11
No worries, hope it's useful.
No worries, hope it's useful.
In reply to Post #12
What if a fish approaches from the far side?
What if a fish approaches from the far side?
In reply to Post #14
You'd better hope it's hungry and wades through the pile of bait and finds your hookbait.
You'd better hope it's hungry and wades through the pile of bait and finds your hookbait.
In reply to Post #15
I do think we overthink this on 99.9% of waters.....
I do think we overthink this on 99.9% of waters.....
In reply to Post #14
Do you have an issue with what I have written? My comment is more about not having lines running through your baited area, rather than which direction the fish approach from. I'd rather not have wary fish feeding over my lines personally, so having hookbaits closer to the near- side rather than bang in the middle or on the far side seems logical to me. This also happens naturally if you don't make any adjustment for swing back so makes life a little more simple too.
Do you have an issue with what I have written? My comment is more about not having lines running through your baited area, rather than which direction the fish approach from. I'd rather not have wary fish feeding over my lines personally, so having hookbaits closer to the near- side rather than bang in the middle or on the far side seems logical to me. This also happens naturally if you don't make any adjustment for swing back so makes life a little more simple too.
In reply to Post #16
You wouldn't want lines running through your margin spots when stalking them, so why would you want them running through your spots at 80 yards? Line angles is huge when planning baited spots. I found on places like Sandhurst which sees a lot of pressure, that baiting spots and ensuring you keep lines away from the spot, or out of the swim entirely for a period of time, makes a big difference.
You wouldn't want lines running through your margin spots when stalking them, so why would you want them running through your spots at 80 yards? Line angles is huge when planning baited spots. I found on places like Sandhurst which sees a lot of pressure, that baiting spots and ensuring you keep lines away from the spot, or out of the swim entirely for a period of time, makes a big difference.
In reply to Post #1
Surely the “near side” depends on which side the fish are approaching from?
Surely the “near side” depends on which side the fish are approaching from?
In reply to Post #19
"Libero" is a bot. Just copying what others are saying in a poor attempt to mask the fact it's a bot...
"Libero" is a bot. Just copying what others are saying in a poor attempt to mask the fact it's a bot...
In reply to Post #1
I tend to cast the marker out, find the feature I want to fish to, and then cast my Spod/Spomb to the marker with my spod rod. Obviously clipping up so I can get to the same spot again should I need to top up.
Next thing is check for a landscape marker on the far bank, so I know exactly what to aim at when I cast.
I cast my fishing rods to the marker, clip up and mark mainline with a power gum stop knot, then reel in, attach rig and bait
Reel marker rod in. I do not leave the marker out while fishing, it is possible to snag or tangle up with while playing a fish.
I don't often do wraps, I do usually pace it out on the bank if I haven't clipped up again before reeling in. (If the stop knot is under the spigot while on the buzzers, let it out to just past the tip eye, clip up and next cast it should land on spot again).
Spod or Spomb, at times I use both or either. If you tape up holes in a spod with insulation tape you can get liquids out there, very wet particles. Spombs are good for pellets, groundbait, particles (although the liquid drains out before casting) or boilies, whereas boilies can often stick in a spod.
A Spomb usually retrieves better, penguin walking across the surface, a spod can dive on the retrieve. A spod takes longer to empty out, whereas a Spomb is almost instant on opening.
I tend to cast the marker out, find the feature I want to fish to, and then cast my Spod/Spomb to the marker with my spod rod. Obviously clipping up so I can get to the same spot again should I need to top up.
Next thing is check for a landscape marker on the far bank, so I know exactly what to aim at when I cast.
I cast my fishing rods to the marker, clip up and mark mainline with a power gum stop knot, then reel in, attach rig and bait
Reel marker rod in. I do not leave the marker out while fishing, it is possible to snag or tangle up with while playing a fish.
I don't often do wraps, I do usually pace it out on the bank if I haven't clipped up again before reeling in. (If the stop knot is under the spigot while on the buzzers, let it out to just past the tip eye, clip up and next cast it should land on spot again).
Spod or Spomb, at times I use both or either. If you tape up holes in a spod with insulation tape you can get liquids out there, very wet particles. Spombs are good for pellets, groundbait, particles (although the liquid drains out before casting) or boilies, whereas boilies can often stick in a spod.
A Spomb usually retrieves better, penguin walking across the surface, a spod can dive on the retrieve. A spod takes longer to empty out, whereas a Spomb is almost instant on opening.
In reply to Post #8
Igniting this post. If you cast a marker unclipped would that have a different outcome to casting it clipped up? Also I've always wound down then clipped up. What would be the best way to mirror the actual rod. Maybe I'm over thinking it lol
Igniting this post. If you cast a marker unclipped would that have a different outcome to casting it clipped up? Also I've always wound down then clipped up. What would be the best way to mirror the actual rod. Maybe I'm over thinking it lol
In reply to Post #22
The lead on the marker rod will be in the same place as your fishing rods and vice versa, as long as you wind down to the marker lead (without moving it) then clip up.
Wrap out your marker rod and wrap your fishing rods exactly the same amount and both marker and fishing rods will hit the same spot. As long as you feel both rods down the same in the same position.
Maybe I've misunderstood, and I'm not answering your question, as this seems very basic knowledge?
The lead on the marker rod will be in the same place as your fishing rods and vice versa, as long as you wind down to the marker lead (without moving it) then clip up.
Wrap out your marker rod and wrap your fishing rods exactly the same amount and both marker and fishing rods will hit the same spot. As long as you feel both rods down the same in the same position.
Maybe I've misunderstood, and I'm not answering your question, as this seems very basic knowledge?
In reply to Post #23
Yes it is and that's what I've always done. Just started questioning it after reading some articles. Usual paranoia kicked in
Yes it is and that's what I've always done. Just started questioning it after reading some articles. Usual paranoia kicked in
In reply to Post #21
You've just reminded me that I used to do these same things.
I seem to have gotten lazy now,(near enough etc).
Will revert back I think.
Cheers
You've just reminded me that I used to do these same things.
I seem to have gotten lazy now,(near enough etc).
Will revert back I think.
Cheers
In reply to Post #14
In essence, you don't want 10ft of mainline + leader laying on top your baited area. I believe it's less important when using boilies as I don't imagine Carp will go along troughing close to the lake bed if they are picking up single baits a few feet apart.
If i'm fishing tight to a far margin, scattered boilie approach may work in your favour, as it may encourage the carp to come out from the security of the snags to find boilies.
In essence, you don't want 10ft of mainline + leader laying on top your baited area. I believe it's less important when using boilies as I don't imagine Carp will go along troughing close to the lake bed if they are picking up single baits a few feet apart.
If i'm fishing tight to a far margin, scattered boilie approach may work in your favour, as it may encourage the carp to come out from the security of the snags to find boilies.
In reply to Post #26
Note to self, check all posts to make sure you haven't replied twice to the same comment three years apart
Note to self, check all posts to make sure you haven't replied twice to the same comment three years apart
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