Anyone else been having problems with the korda hooks bending ? It's been about the 6th hook in this pack that I've had bend . I've just had a fish only about 11lb and the hook was brand new out of the packet and it bent on me. I've had about 5 bend on me on a lake that's got hardly any weed and don't need to play the fish hard. But the hooks are bending. I nearly lost a big fish on another lake witch is weedy and the hook bent on that. It just seems shocking how many are bending. I've never been that keen on the korda hooks. Thay are nice and sharp but apart from that that seem very poor.
In reply to Post #1
Use different hooks?
Use different hooks?
In reply to Post #1
Nope in 11 years that i use Korda hooks (wide gape/kranks) never had one bending or broken.
Nope in 11 years that i use Korda hooks (wide gape/kranks) never had one bending or broken.
In reply to Post #2
I am now I've just found a pack of the Nash fang hooks. So just changed over to them and the korda ones are going in the bin when I get home.
I am now I've just found a pack of the Nash fang hooks. So just changed over to them and the korda ones are going in the bin when I get home.
I've never had any Korda hook do that, decent hooks tbh but I use j precision hooks now
I've opened them up on weedy waters. To be honest it's probably my fault as I should have gone up to the thicker gauge X versions.
Now I just use Drennan Continentals. A beast of a hook, plus they sharpen up an absolute treat.
Now I just use Drennan Continentals. A beast of a hook, plus they sharpen up an absolute treat.
In reply to Post #1
Where are they bending?
Ive had carp to 68 and cats to 110 on standard size 4 wide gapes and have never really had an issue with them
The points do tend to go over but thats not an issue
Where are they bending?
Ive had carp to 68 and cats to 110 on standard size 4 wide gapes and have never really had an issue with them
The points do tend to go over but thats not an issue
In reply to Post #1
Only problem I've had with Korda hooks I'd caused myself with too heavy rods and low-stretch line. Otherwise they've been very reliable.
Only problem I've had with Korda hooks I'd caused myself with too heavy rods and low-stretch line. Otherwise they've been very reliable.
In reply to Post #1
Used to use them and not had that issue. Still got a few packs of the Kaptor Choddies that I use and don't have any concerns. As below, now use J Precision for most of my hooks as I feel they are better hooks rather than me having any major issues or gripes with Korda
Used to use them and not had that issue. Still got a few packs of the Kaptor Choddies that I use and don't have any concerns. As below, now use J Precision for most of my hooks as I feel they are better hooks rather than me having any major issues or gripes with Korda
In reply to Post #1
they can bend nothing new there but if you get so many bends than change something in your set up, you are not getting proper hookholds play around with hooklink length etc...
they can bend nothing new there but if you get so many bends than change something in your set up, you are not getting proper hookholds play around with hooklink length etc...
In reply to Post #6
I did use the dream continual hooks and loved them but I can't get hold of them in my local tackle shops
I did use the dream continual hooks and loved them but I can't get hold of them in my local tackle shops
In reply to Post #10
Getting perfect hook holds. And been using same set up with other hooks. And not had a problem with hooks bending. Yes in the past I've had the odd hook bend from other makers . I just don't expect to have a hook bend on a fish of about 11lb and it's no weed or snags in the swim so not even had to play the fish hard
Getting perfect hook holds. And been using same set up with other hooks. And not had a problem with hooks bending. Yes in the past I've had the odd hook bend from other makers . I just don't expect to have a hook bend on a fish of about 11lb and it's no weed or snags in the swim so not even had to play the fish hard
Something has changed with the korda hooks. Bought a load of hand sharpened wide gapes ages ago and recently run out so bought a pack from the shop and have landed fish after an fairly easy battle, got the hook out and it had opened up a bit which was odd as never had any trouble with the older ones I had.
In reply to Post #13
99% of cases where hooks bend it's due to unbalanced tackle. You haven't given us many details barring that the fish wasn't big and there was no weed. What size hook?? Which pattern, what lb hooklink and mainline were you using what tc of rod, was your mainline low stretch etc all these things can contribute
In reply to Post #1
Iv not used a single Korda hook for around 10 years after I lost a decent fish at the net. Due to a wide gape snapping on me !!much better and cheaper hooks around..
Iv not used a single Korda hook for around 10 years after I lost a decent fish at the net. Due to a wide gape snapping on me !!much better and cheaper hooks around..
In reply to Post #15
I've been using the same rods reels rigs etc for years. Never had this problem with any other hooks. Okay on a very rear one that a hook has gone. But never ever had this problem with other brands of hooks regardless of my fishing style. Been car fishing for over 30 years now. So not like I'm a beginner
I've been using the same rods reels rigs etc for years. Never had this problem with any other hooks. Okay on a very rear one that a hook has gone. But never ever had this problem with other brands of hooks regardless of my fishing style. Been car fishing for over 30 years now. So not like I'm a beginner
In reply to Post #16
In reply to Post #1
I have been using Korda hooks almost exclusively for my carp fishing for years. Not a Korda kiddie just my two local tackle shops hold the full range and they are always in stock. I do a lot of fishing on different waters for different species and I can honestly say I have never had one break or bend.
I use them in sizes 4-12 in wide gape, curved shank and choddy. Even handlining them out of a tree or pulling for a break( not with a fish attached) from a snag it's the line or hook length that goes. I use mono mainline between 12 and 18 lb bs and hook links between 15/25lb bs. My rods go up to 3.75 test. For a hook in these sizes to bend in an 11lb fish they must be like butter.
Not saying you are wrong, but there is something not right with the manufacture or supply. Are they genuine Korda hooks? Send them back to Korda and chase it. Would be interested to know the outcome.
I have been using Korda hooks almost exclusively for my carp fishing for years. Not a Korda kiddie just my two local tackle shops hold the full range and they are always in stock. I do a lot of fishing on different waters for different species and I can honestly say I have never had one break or bend.
I use them in sizes 4-12 in wide gape, curved shank and choddy. Even handlining them out of a tree or pulling for a break( not with a fish attached) from a snag it's the line or hook length that goes. I use mono mainline between 12 and 18 lb bs and hook links between 15/25lb bs. My rods go up to 3.75 test. For a hook in these sizes to bend in an 11lb fish they must be like butter.
Not saying you are wrong, but there is something not right with the manufacture or supply. Are they genuine Korda hooks? Send them back to Korda and chase it. Would be interested to know the outcome.
I remember a mate of mine have problems with the wide gape hooks quite a few years ago now with them he had a few snap on the bend, obviously binned them and hasn't used korda hooks since, one snapped while unhooking a fish that looked like it was a very good hookhold.
In reply to Post #1
Can I ask where the fish you've landed have actually been hooked? I'd say it's down to rig mechanics and baiting rather than hook fault personally
Can I ask where the fish you've landed have actually been hooked? I'd say it's down to rig mechanics and baiting rather than hook fault personally
In reply to Post #1
I've been using Korda hooks on and off the years and had never had one straighten and I've had catfish over 70lb and carp over 50lb on them. Were you using the Kamakura's? I've never used them so can't vouch for them.
I've been using Korda hooks on and off the years and had never had one straighten and I've had catfish over 70lb and carp over 50lb on them. Were you using the Kamakura's? I've never used them so can't vouch for them.
Only have to watch monster carp and see old mouthy Hamidi land a 100lb plus Siamese using a size 4 krank, and as for having fished for 30 years so?? My old man has and he still makes mistakes. Again you skirted round the question what size hook was it?? Was it a wide gape?? Which are a thinnish wire, it's why I use the x versions, not that I ever had a problem with the normal ones I just generally fish small snaggy lakes so need beefier tackle. When I got my 3 1/2lb tc Rods using braided mainline I opened out a size 4 raptor big t which had never let me down. Did I blame the hook nope I was using beefy gear a low stretch line and in a hit and hold situation
In reply to Post #23
The hook was a size 6 wide gape . And as you you said (carp fishing for 30 years so) the way way one of your post read was that I don't no how to tie a rig. Well after 30 years I can tie rigs. And used lots of different hooks and size and yes had the odd one bend. But no way as many as the korda ones. And the hook hold was in the middle of the bottom lip
The hook was a size 6 wide gape . And as you you said (carp fishing for 30 years so) the way way one of your post read was that I don't no how to tie a rig. Well after 30 years I can tie rigs. And used lots of different hooks and size and yes had the odd one bend. But no way as many as the korda ones. And the hook hold was in the middle of the bottom lip
In reply to Post #24
Fang twisters mate. I have found them to be fantastic hooks, use them for all my bottom bait rigs. I have had one open up on me and that was my doing, reliable strong hooks for me
Fang twisters mate. I have found them to be fantastic hooks, use them for all my bottom bait rigs. I have had one open up on me and that was my doing, reliable strong hooks for me
In reply to Post #1
Was using the size 8 Kaptor wide gapes [gravel] and didn't have any problems which included quite a bit of hit & hold.
These could possibly have been an older batch.
Did speak to a guy a couple of months ago who had a Korda Kurve snap for no apparent reason on the bend.
Was using the size 8 Kaptor wide gapes [gravel] and didn't have any problems which included quite a bit of hit & hold.
These could possibly have been an older batch.
Did speak to a guy a couple of months ago who had a Korda Kurve snap for no apparent reason on the bend.
In reply to Post #15
Balanced tackle 😂😂😂😂
Balanced tackle 😂😂😂😂
Been using various korda hooks for over 10 years and never had a problem even when fishing locked up solid on snaggy waters . Decent hooks in my opinion.
In reply to Post #25
Yes the fang hooks is what I've just got as used them a long time ago and never had a problem with them only stopped using them as couldn't get them in the tackle shop that I use to use
Yes the fang hooks is what I've just got as used them a long time ago and never had a problem with them only stopped using them as couldn't get them in the tackle shop that I use to use
In reply to Post #27
What's funny??
What's funny??
In reply to Post #27
Using a size 10 hook with a 35lb hooklink 45lb leadcore and say 18lb mainline and a 3 1/2 tc rod that sound balanced?? Nope the hook will open up as the rest of the kit used will exert too much pressure it's pretty basic
Using a size 10 hook with a 35lb hooklink 45lb leadcore and say 18lb mainline and a 3 1/2 tc rod that sound balanced?? Nope the hook will open up as the rest of the kit used will exert too much pressure it's pretty basic
In reply to Post #31
I doubt Your 45lb leadcore and 18lb line with your 3 1/2lb rod will exert any more pressure (unless flat rodded) than a balanced 2.5lb rod with 10lb line.
Depending on the action and build of your 3.5lb rod a 2.5lb tc rod may exert more pressure
I doubt Your 45lb leadcore and 18lb line with your 3 1/2lb rod will exert any more pressure (unless flat rodded) than a balanced 2.5lb rod with 10lb line.
Depending on the action and build of your 3.5lb rod a 2.5lb tc rod may exert more pressure
In reply to Post #30
You haven't the faintest idea of what you're talking about ! I'd quit now before you embarrass yourself anymore 😉
You haven't the faintest idea of what you're talking about ! I'd quit now before you embarrass yourself anymore 😉
In reply to Post #32
Now that's hilarious lol
Now that's hilarious lol
In reply to Post #33
As usual from a lot on here your vague and quite frankly idiotic comments just trying to be a p***k don't really help lol I think it's you who needs to quit you don't see a match angler using heavy braided hooklinks and leadcore on a feeder rod cos it's idiotic, same with using really heavy mainline with lighter rods or really heavy tc rods with a 10lb hooklink it's asking for trouble you cretin
As usual from a lot on here your vague and quite frankly idiotic comments just trying to be a p***k don't really help lol I think it's you who needs to quit you don't see a match angler using heavy braided hooklinks and leadcore on a feeder rod cos it's idiotic, same with using really heavy mainline with lighter rods or really heavy tc rods with a 10lb hooklink it's asking for trouble you cretin
In reply to Post #32
Spot on mate
Spot on mate
In reply to Post #36
Really?? A 2.5lb tc rod is going to exert more pressure than a 3.5lb?? That's just laughable
Really?? A 2.5lb tc rod is going to exert more pressure than a 3.5lb?? That's just laughable
In reply to Post #37
My 2.25 12ft rods that bend like spaghetti will win a tug of war against my 5.5lb 13ft spod rod every day of the week
It's physics dahhhling
My 2.25 12ft rods that bend like spaghetti will win a tug of war against my 5.5lb 13ft spod rod every day of the week
It's physics dahhhling
In reply to Post #37
Do your research mate, it's all about physics and ring spacing. A rod with 6 rings is not allowing the line to follow the blank so it is not as powerful. More rings that allow the line to travel in more of a curve closer to the blank allow far more power to be applied. Tests have been done on land and in water against a scale and the results are very surprising
Do your research mate, it's all about physics and ring spacing. A rod with 6 rings is not allowing the line to follow the blank so it is not as powerful. More rings that allow the line to travel in more of a curve closer to the blank allow far more power to be applied. Tests have been done on land and in water against a scale and the results are very surprising
In reply to Post #39
It's mainly down to leverage, the lighter rod will bend more and become a shorter lever
It's mainly down to leverage, the lighter rod will bend more and become a shorter lever
In reply to Post #40
But it also has a softer action, a stiffer rod bent to the butt will exert more pressure I love it when people say it's physics but clearly don't actually know much about physics lol I'm done you guys believe what you like
But it also has a softer action, a stiffer rod bent to the butt will exert more pressure I love it when people say it's physics but clearly don't actually know much about physics lol I'm done you guys believe what you like
In reply to Post #41
Do a little research on second class levers and come back later. Unless your built like Geoff capes in his prime good luck bending my spod rod to the butt.
Try this, use a heavy spod rod, tie the line to a bucket and fill with water until you can't lift it, then attach a light rod and lift the bucket easily
Do a little research on second class levers and come back later. Unless your built like Geoff capes in his prime good luck bending my spod rod to the butt.
Try this, use a heavy spod rod, tie the line to a bucket and fill with water until you can't lift it, then attach a light rod and lift the bucket easily
In reply to Post #40
That as well
That as well
In reply to Post #42
This will show exactly the principle described....
https://youtu.be/cp6b_AhxVGI
This will show exactly the principle described....
https://youtu.be/cp6b_AhxVGI
It's a lot to do with where you hook the fish and what type of line you are using as well. Is too simplistic to say that a higher TC or heavy line/leader will straighten hooks. If you hooked a big fish at range, you've got a lot of line out to use as a shock absorber, especially if it's not a low stretch version. Hook that same fish locked up under the rod tips on the same set up and the results might be different, but the balance of the set up hasn't changed, it's just the circumstances that have.
You could argue that if you used a lighter rod and lower diameter line, you'd have less control over the fish, need to exert more pressure to keep in contact with it and actually be more likely to straighten a hook, where as the extra power of a heavier set up would aid you.
There's just so many factors, earlier in the year I straightened out a size 4 Drennan Continental. I was using 3.5lb test rods at full test curve, .4 line, a 45lb leadcore leader and i still had zero control Over the fish, until it done me. A lighter set up would have been smashed to fcuk in seconds. You know what sometimes **** happens and I think it's a bit rude to suggest that it's the anglers fault cos he doesn't know what he's doing. There's a lot of VERY experienced anglers on this forum. You might well be one of them, but you definitely aren't the only one.
You could argue that if you used a lighter rod and lower diameter line, you'd have less control over the fish, need to exert more pressure to keep in contact with it and actually be more likely to straighten a hook, where as the extra power of a heavier set up would aid you.
There's just so many factors, earlier in the year I straightened out a size 4 Drennan Continental. I was using 3.5lb test rods at full test curve, .4 line, a 45lb leadcore leader and i still had zero control Over the fish, until it done me. A lighter set up would have been smashed to fcuk in seconds. You know what sometimes **** happens and I think it's a bit rude to suggest that it's the anglers fault cos he doesn't know what he's doing. There's a lot of VERY experienced anglers on this forum. You might well be one of them, but you definitely aren't the only one.
In reply to Post #34
Jamie my comment isn't hilarious its factual you later question our physics but i don't think you understand the physics and leverages of fishing rods
i would like to know which rod you think would apply more pressure a 3.5tc fast actioned casting rod built with 6 eyes or a through action 3.5tc rod with more and smaller eyes?
something else for you to try get your mate or someone to hold a set of scales at the end of your garden and connect your rod and line to it and pull as hard as you can with the rod bent and let us know what the scales show
Jamie my comment isn't hilarious its factual you later question our physics but i don't think you understand the physics and leverages of fishing rods
i would like to know which rod you think would apply more pressure a 3.5tc fast actioned casting rod built with 6 eyes or a through action 3.5tc rod with more and smaller eyes?
something else for you to try get your mate or someone to hold a set of scales at the end of your garden and connect your rod and line to it and pull as hard as you can with the rod bent and let us know what the scales show
In reply to Post #45
I've never straightened a hook on my stalking kit, which will put more pressure out than what 99.9% of carpers use, yet have straightened a size 6 atomic chod on a floater setup with .30 mono hook length, I don't personally think pressure has a lot to do with it, not in that way anyway. If the force is in the wrong point of the hook it's going to fail.
Didn't the same poster also have a thread recently about straightening drennan super specialists? These aren't a particularly strong hook, neither are the wide gapes but to be bending that many hooks you'd have to be very unlucky or something is wrong with the setup. (edit, that thread is also about korda hooks being weak)
I may hazard a guess, that after having one or two dodgy hooks/hook holds causing bends, the natural reaction would be to go gently after that, if there isn't enough pressure to pull the hook home fully, the pressure is applied in a way the hooks aren't designed to handle.
I've never straightened a hook on my stalking kit, which will put more pressure out than what 99.9% of carpers use, yet have straightened a size 6 atomic chod on a floater setup with .30 mono hook length, I don't personally think pressure has a lot to do with it, not in that way anyway. If the force is in the wrong point of the hook it's going to fail.
Didn't the same poster also have a thread recently about straightening drennan super specialists? These aren't a particularly strong hook, neither are the wide gapes but to be bending that many hooks you'd have to be very unlucky or something is wrong with the setup. (edit, that thread is also about korda hooks being weak)
I may hazard a guess, that after having one or two dodgy hooks/hook holds causing bends, the natural reaction would be to go gently after that, if there isn't enough pressure to pull the hook home fully, the pressure is applied in a way the hooks aren't designed to handle.
In reply to Post #47
I think there's a massive slice of luck in all captures to be honest. I've landed fish that I had no right to after some stupid hit and hold situations on one of my waters that's all snag fishing, and I've had the hook fall out just as I'm about to land them after a very ordinary open water plod.
When I'm zig fishing I never change my rods, reels or mainline. I just use a lighter long hook length and a smaller hook. Going by what's been mentioned earlier then I should be straighten hooks out all over the place, but I never have when fishing like this.
I know I have had standard wide gapes open years ago, I don't recall it ever happening with a long shank though, but I guess they were different rig mechanics.
I think there's a massive slice of luck in all captures to be honest. I've landed fish that I had no right to after some stupid hit and hold situations on one of my waters that's all snag fishing, and I've had the hook fall out just as I'm about to land them after a very ordinary open water plod.
When I'm zig fishing I never change my rods, reels or mainline. I just use a lighter long hook length and a smaller hook. Going by what's been mentioned earlier then I should be straighten hooks out all over the place, but I never have when fishing like this.
I know I have had standard wide gapes open years ago, I don't recall it ever happening with a long shank though, but I guess they were different rig mechanics.
In reply to Post #48
The ironic thing is that most of us are more comfortable scaling down with lighter rods than with casting sticks, yet the lighter rods are much more capable of testing the tackle. I know years ago me and a mate did the scales test like in the video, but I had grabbed the wrong set of reuban flyweights. I pulled my 3,1/4 cerberas harder than I'd ever pull a fish and registered about 4lb, I bottomed out the scales with my stalker setup without pulling as hard and still felt I could take line with the centrepin reel, those scales bottom at around 14lb!
One is bad luck, two from a pack would be extremely bad luck, more than that has got to be a dodgy batch or a problem setting the hook
The ironic thing is that most of us are more comfortable scaling down with lighter rods than with casting sticks, yet the lighter rods are much more capable of testing the tackle. I know years ago me and a mate did the scales test like in the video, but I had grabbed the wrong set of reuban flyweights. I pulled my 3,1/4 cerberas harder than I'd ever pull a fish and registered about 4lb, I bottomed out the scales with my stalker setup without pulling as hard and still felt I could take line with the centrepin reel, those scales bottom at around 14lb!
One is bad luck, two from a pack would be extremely bad luck, more than that has got to be a dodgy batch or a problem setting the hook
In reply to Post #49
I'm sure the old dodgy batch of stuff from all manufacturers slips through every now and again. Maybe a raw material changes in a tiny way. Maybe a new machine operator sets up in a tiny different way etc etc. When companies are turning out tens of thousands of items it's got to happen. Let's face it. It can happen with relatively low volume items like alarms and rods. My mate picked up a set of free spirit rods in a shop once and the rings didn't line up! If that can slip through QC I bet loads of iffy terminal tackle does.
I'm sure the old dodgy batch of stuff from all manufacturers slips through every now and again. Maybe a raw material changes in a tiny way. Maybe a new machine operator sets up in a tiny different way etc etc. When companies are turning out tens of thousands of items it's got to happen. Let's face it. It can happen with relatively low volume items like alarms and rods. My mate picked up a set of free spirit rods in a shop once and the rings didn't line up! If that can slip through QC I bet loads of iffy terminal tackle does.
In reply to Post #49
Although some of the softer rods are capable of applying more pressure they will only do it if the angler applies it , a lot of the time unless we are really trying to stop a fish getting somewhere we don't use the rod to its potential as it sometimes feels like we are putting too much pressure on because there is more feedback from the softer more forgiving rods if that makes sense?
its funny wayne has had wide gapes open and not longshanks yet over the years i have had more trouble with longshanks opening i put this down to a combination of hook hold typically narrower gape and longer lever to the eye.
Also not every packet of hooks will be manufactured to the same standards some of the reported failures may be a combination of hook holds and poor hook which is why some of us never have a problem with a certain type of hook yet others do and when this does happen we naturally lose confidence and dont want to use them again.
Although some of the softer rods are capable of applying more pressure they will only do it if the angler applies it , a lot of the time unless we are really trying to stop a fish getting somewhere we don't use the rod to its potential as it sometimes feels like we are putting too much pressure on because there is more feedback from the softer more forgiving rods if that makes sense?
its funny wayne has had wide gapes open and not longshanks yet over the years i have had more trouble with longshanks opening i put this down to a combination of hook hold typically narrower gape and longer lever to the eye.
Also not every packet of hooks will be manufactured to the same standards some of the reported failures may be a combination of hook holds and poor hook which is why some of us never have a problem with a certain type of hook yet others do and when this does happen we naturally lose confidence and dont want to use them again.
In reply to Post #50
It happens, I was a fan of ultima mainline, used the power carp and xr lines for years and they were great, tried the power carp ultra, supposedly tougher and more abrasion resistant for a snaggy water, and cracked off the first few casts. The tackle box tested it and. 38 mono was breaking at around 6lb
I'd be interested in yonnys verdict on the hooks
I don't remember opening a longshank, but I seem to have more hook pulls when using them, I've actually dropped 3 of my last 8 runs with barbless trig hammers and changed to a different pattern. I had no trouble, and had a lot of confidence in them on a barbed only water though
It happens, I was a fan of ultima mainline, used the power carp and xr lines for years and they were great, tried the power carp ultra, supposedly tougher and more abrasion resistant for a snaggy water, and cracked off the first few casts. The tackle box tested it and. 38 mono was breaking at around 6lb
I'd be interested in yonnys verdict on the hooks
I don't remember opening a longshank, but I seem to have more hook pulls when using them, I've actually dropped 3 of my last 8 runs with barbless trig hammers and changed to a different pattern. I had no trouble, and had a lot of confidence in them on a barbed only water though
In reply to Post #52
I reckon you just needing to scale your rods down
I reckon you just needing to scale your rods down
It really surprises me that so many people seem to be having problems with hooks. I think it's one of the items of tackle that have improved out of sight over the last 30 years. Since the arrival of Drennan,Korda, Kamasan, Nash and others I never worry about my hooks. From 24s for dace in winter to 6/0 for cod they are really reliable. I have landed 20 plus carp on a 22, a big double pike on 18 (both drennans). Use fine wire Aberdeen by Kamasan to land mid double fish in big tides and seas on the beach and I have had some good fish on wide gape 12s. I always fish barbless in freshwater unless rules say different. I just check the knot and point and cast out. I bump, drop and lose an occasional fish like everybody. I don't blame the hooks, I have great faith in them.
In reply to Post #37
No, it's true. There's plenty of info to confirm if you look
No, it's true. There's plenty of info to confirm if you look
In reply to Post #37
Clearly you have no clue what you are talking about...
Look up class 3 levers....that might open your mind a bit...
Simple physics is that shorter levers exert more power..
I won a tug of war quite easily with an AWS 2.25tc rod against a 3.5 H'is.
The problem with big heavy TC rods is that they don't apply enough pressure to pull the hook in past the barb and to the base of the gape that's when they start opening out especially if fishing gravel pits where fish develop hard mouths.
Matchmen with feeder rods don't have this problem because they can apply far more pressure than a carp rod and tend to use finer guage hooks.
Clearly you have no clue what you are talking about...
Look up class 3 levers....that might open your mind a bit...
Simple physics is that shorter levers exert more power..
I won a tug of war quite easily with an AWS 2.25tc rod against a 3.5 H'is.
The problem with big heavy TC rods is that they don't apply enough pressure to pull the hook in past the barb and to the base of the gape that's when they start opening out especially if fishing gravel pits where fish develop hard mouths.
Matchmen with feeder rods don't have this problem because they can apply far more pressure than a carp rod and tend to use finer guage hooks.
In reply to Post #1
In 30 plus years of carping I've never had a hook bend or snap on me, that's fishing for big fish and at times very weedy waters. walk round a day ticket and you'll see loads of anglers that dont know how to play a fish and they'll be angling with un-balanced gear based on what they have seen on a video, its all down to a lack of knowledge, ability and tackle company greed these days.
In 30 plus years of carping I've never had a hook bend or snap on me, that's fishing for big fish and at times very weedy waters. walk round a day ticket and you'll see loads of anglers that dont know how to play a fish and they'll be angling with un-balanced gear based on what they have seen on a video, its all down to a lack of knowledge, ability and tackle company greed these days.
In reply to Post #51
, a lot of the time unless we are really trying to stop a fish getting somewhere we don't use the rod to its potential as it sometimes feels like we are putting too much pressure on because there is more feedback from the softer more forgiving rods if that makes sense? ....
That actually not strictly true as you will be automatically applying more pressure to YOUR 'perceived' same pressure at the handle end.
If a fish pulled to your yield point there would be far more pressure going out onto the fish on your softer TC rods than the stiffer ones albeit it would feel the same to you at your end.
, a lot of the time unless we are really trying to stop a fish getting somewhere we don't use the rod to its potential as it sometimes feels like we are putting too much pressure on because there is more feedback from the softer more forgiving rods if that makes sense? ....
That actually not strictly true as you will be automatically applying more pressure to YOUR 'perceived' same pressure at the handle end.
If a fish pulled to your yield point there would be far more pressure going out onto the fish on your softer TC rods than the stiffer ones albeit it would feel the same to you at your end.
In reply to Post #35
I use my old analogy. You use a longer spanner to undo stubborn nuts and bolts because they give you more leverage.
With a long carp rod the fish is the one using the spanner and you are the nut, therefore the shorter the rod the higher resistance you can put up to what's pulling the other end for less effort applied yourself
Not quite as simple as saying a lower test curve is more powerful either. Something that bends to the handle and is hooped over at 2lb doesn't have anything left in the tank, whereas a fast action rod bent to the spigot at 2lb has more left before it melts or blows up
I use my old analogy. You use a longer spanner to undo stubborn nuts and bolts because they give you more leverage.
With a long carp rod the fish is the one using the spanner and you are the nut, therefore the shorter the rod the higher resistance you can put up to what's pulling the other end for less effort applied yourself
Not quite as simple as saying a lower test curve is more powerful either. Something that bends to the handle and is hooped over at 2lb doesn't have anything left in the tank, whereas a fast action rod bent to the spigot at 2lb has more left before it melts or blows up
In reply to Post #58
It wasn't worded very well or didn't explain it very well i like using softer rods when i can because i can keep a constant pressure on the fish and for me keep in better control however when using the softer more progressive rods i dont apply the full pressure because of the better feed back or feel you get from the rods so unless really trying to stop them getting somewhere i dont use the rods to there full potential can play them better give line when i feel yet still retain control
It wasn't worded very well or didn't explain it very well i like using softer rods when i can because i can keep a constant pressure on the fish and for me keep in better control however when using the softer more progressive rods i dont apply the full pressure because of the better feed back or feel you get from the rods so unless really trying to stop them getting somewhere i dont use the rods to there full potential can play them better give line when i feel yet still retain control
In reply to Post #59
My old 2lb mk1 armalites which i still have are similar to what you describe used to hoop straight over to the handle even with small carp yet feel like they had little left and take a long time to land fish in comparison to the 2 1/4 north westerns they replaced
My old 2lb mk1 armalites which i still have are similar to what you describe used to hoop straight over to the handle even with small carp yet feel like they had little left and take a long time to land fish in comparison to the 2 1/4 north westerns they replaced
Let's all hate korda and then I can buy the kamukuras cheaper I hope... every hook iv used has snapped or straightened out like that lad who lost 15 fish from korda hooks
In reply to Post #56
Doh, it's a class 2 lever for the fish
Doh, it's a class 2 lever for the fish
Has this thread turned into another ‘I know more than you about rods and want to boost my ego' threads again or did the OP gain anything from all these ramblings do you think ?
In reply to Post #64
More a case of people commenting on a subject they're interested in.
Maybe we should all shuffle across and discuss processed foods and fat laden **** that we can cook in a ridgemonkey in the race to get heart disease?
Or bedchair elastic for when the butter and sausage build up comes into effect?
More a case of people commenting on a subject they're interested in.
Maybe we should all shuffle across and discuss processed foods and fat laden **** that we can cook in a ridgemonkey in the race to get heart disease?
Or bedchair elastic for when the butter and sausage build up comes into effect?
In reply to Post #65
Well maybe I could suggest you start a thread entitled ‘ Rods and leverage ‘ perhaps , instead of cluttering all this on a Korda hooks thread , yet another thread totally off track and irrelevant to the OP's subject
Well maybe I could suggest you start a thread entitled ‘ Rods and leverage ‘ perhaps , instead of cluttering all this on a Korda hooks thread , yet another thread totally off track and irrelevant to the OP's subject
In reply to Post #66
It is all valid to the thread as it developed
The last few posts aren't
It is all valid to the thread as it developed
The last few posts aren't
In reply to Post #67
‘ As it developed ‘ exactly my point
‘ As it developed ‘ exactly my point
In reply to Post #66
I don't see how it's irrelevant when people are incorrectly blaming rods for hooks opening.
Sorry, let's get back to how terrible Korda products are and hopefully we can squeeze in some hatred of Essex and London accents or people earning a living
I don't see how it's irrelevant when people are incorrectly blaming rods for hooks opening.
Sorry, let's get back to how terrible Korda products are and hopefully we can squeeze in some hatred of Essex and London accents or people earning a living
In reply to Post #69
From the OP ... Anyone else been having problems with the korda hooks bending ? It's been about the 6th hook in this pack that I've had bend . I've just had a fish only about 11lb and the hook was brand new out of the packet and it bent on me. I've had about 5 bend on me on a lake that's got hardly any weed and don't need to play the fish hard. But the hooks are bending. I nearly lost a big fish on another lake witch is weedy and the hook bent on that. It just seems shocking how many are bending. I've never been that keen on the korda hooks. Thay are nice and sharp but apart from that that seem very poor.
He quotes he doesn't need to play the fish hard which I'm guessing he isn't , unless he is using a 6ft boat rod
From the OP ... Anyone else been having problems with the korda hooks bending ? It's been about the 6th hook in this pack that I've had bend . I've just had a fish only about 11lb and the hook was brand new out of the packet and it bent on me. I've had about 5 bend on me on a lake that's got hardly any weed and don't need to play the fish hard. But the hooks are bending. I nearly lost a big fish on another lake witch is weedy and the hook bent on that. It just seems shocking how many are bending. I've never been that keen on the korda hooks. Thay are nice and sharp but apart from that that seem very poor.
He quotes he doesn't need to play the fish hard which I'm guessing he isn't , unless he is using a 6ft boat rod
Let's go back. Guy using Korda size 6 wide gape hooks 11lb carp in snag free lake and loses fish because hook bends. Then finds five more in same packet fail in some way.
I have complete faith in modern hooks, they just never let me down and I am happy to use Korda hooks for all my carp fishing.
However this must be the hooks. I would expect to pump an 11 lb fish pretty much straight into the net. Ease off to land it, 2 or 3 mins and bobs your uncle. A normal size six wide gape would tear out of a fish that size before it bent or broke. It must be the temper of the hooks. Over tempered they break, under tempered they bend. This has nothing to do with levers, actions, test curves or lines. The forces an 11lb fish can exert are just too small.
These hooks are made by the thousand and are packaged at the end of the process. I imagine that quality control take random hooks from each run and test them. Standard practice for big runs of small components. If the tested hooks fail then the run would be checked further, maybe even ditched. For a pack to be full of duff hooks the whole run would have to be full of them. Can't see it myself. Where did you buy them? Are you sure they are genuine. If you believe so follow it up with Korda.
For me still happy to use Korda hooks. Absolutely reliable for a long time.
I have complete faith in modern hooks, they just never let me down and I am happy to use Korda hooks for all my carp fishing.
However this must be the hooks. I would expect to pump an 11 lb fish pretty much straight into the net. Ease off to land it, 2 or 3 mins and bobs your uncle. A normal size six wide gape would tear out of a fish that size before it bent or broke. It must be the temper of the hooks. Over tempered they break, under tempered they bend. This has nothing to do with levers, actions, test curves or lines. The forces an 11lb fish can exert are just too small.
These hooks are made by the thousand and are packaged at the end of the process. I imagine that quality control take random hooks from each run and test them. Standard practice for big runs of small components. If the tested hooks fail then the run would be checked further, maybe even ditched. For a pack to be full of duff hooks the whole run would have to be full of them. Can't see it myself. Where did you buy them? Are you sure they are genuine. If you believe so follow it up with Korda.
For me still happy to use Korda hooks. Absolutely reliable for a long time.
In reply to Post #70
And It's been suggested that while others have had zero problems with their hooks and even if he wanted to exert lots of pressure, he probably couldn't due to the rod being used, it could be down to the mechanics of the rig or hook not being driven home properly due to the lack of direct pressure.
Or heaven forbid the old ‘bad batch' syndrome..
You're talking about a hook which our only connection with is via the rod, so it's completely relevant.
People are talking about line BS, which has sod all connection because anything above about 8lb is purely used for abrasion resistance because a ‘carp' rod won't exceed about 5lb with hernia inducing pulling because...... it's an ineffective lever
And It's been suggested that while others have had zero problems with their hooks and even if he wanted to exert lots of pressure, he probably couldn't due to the rod being used, it could be down to the mechanics of the rig or hook not being driven home properly due to the lack of direct pressure.
Or heaven forbid the old ‘bad batch' syndrome..
You're talking about a hook which our only connection with is via the rod, so it's completely relevant.
People are talking about line BS, which has sod all connection because anything above about 8lb is purely used for abrasion resistance because a ‘carp' rod won't exceed about 5lb with hernia inducing pulling because...... it's an ineffective lever
I used wide gape B's almost exclusively for years without issues including a particuarly memorable hit and hold with a 45lb catfish in lillies without issue.
Then in a single session landed a single figure common with the hook half straightened, tied a new rig and lost a low double at the net with the hook fully straightened. No difference in my other tackle or playing style.
It was a new pack of hooks and I assume it was the result of a manufacturing defect. However both hooks were hard to bend back into shape and when I tested other hooks out of the pack and they took a hell of a lot of force to bend, much more than I'd be exerting during a fight. The odds of two in a row having a dodgy hook hold after hundreds of other carp being landed on the same rigs without issue seems slim.
I contacted Korda asking if it was a batch defect but never heard anything back. Lost confidence in the hoolks after that and switched to cryogen wide gapes which I have used without issue ever since. My dad still uses the korda hooks and has never had a hook straighten or bend even when pulling in/for a break on large snags.
Then in a single session landed a single figure common with the hook half straightened, tied a new rig and lost a low double at the net with the hook fully straightened. No difference in my other tackle or playing style.
It was a new pack of hooks and I assume it was the result of a manufacturing defect. However both hooks were hard to bend back into shape and when I tested other hooks out of the pack and they took a hell of a lot of force to bend, much more than I'd be exerting during a fight. The odds of two in a row having a dodgy hook hold after hundreds of other carp being landed on the same rigs without issue seems slim.
I contacted Korda asking if it was a batch defect but never heard anything back. Lost confidence in the hoolks after that and switched to cryogen wide gapes which I have used without issue ever since. My dad still uses the korda hooks and has never had a hook straighten or bend even when pulling in/for a break on large snags.
In reply to Post #73
I've got no answer except it has got to be the individual hooks. For now, as it's not broke as far as I'm concerned, I won't fix it.
I've got no answer except it has got to be the individual hooks. For now, as it's not broke as far as I'm concerned, I won't fix it.
In reply to Post #72
You're going too deep that is the irrelevant bit , the talk of rods and leverage to me isn't the issue here as he has mentioned he is only lightly playing the fish and as you say can't exert the pressure required to open the hook normally .
Surely it's a problem with the batch of hooks , it's common sense
You're going too deep that is the irrelevant bit , the talk of rods and leverage to me isn't the issue here as he has mentioned he is only lightly playing the fish and as you say can't exert the pressure required to open the hook normally .
Surely it's a problem with the batch of hooks , it's common sense
In reply to Post #75
Yeah it went a bit deep after the poster suggesting a broomstick rod put too much pressure.
The thing is though, if your being ultra gentle after a hook pull or has bent, on a rod that will only pull 4lb when you give it some, it definitely falls into the realms of "not enough pressure to set the hook" being the problem.
Yeah it went a bit deep after the poster suggesting a broomstick rod put too much pressure.
The thing is though, if your being ultra gentle after a hook pull or has bent, on a rod that will only pull 4lb when you give it some, it definitely falls into the realms of "not enough pressure to set the hook" being the problem.
In reply to Post #76
....not enough pressure to set the hook" being the problem
Halleluila and Amen...
....not enough pressure to set the hook" being the problem
Halleluila and Amen...
In reply to Post #77
If there is not enough pressure to set the hook how is a size six wide gape bending or breaking?
If there is not enough pressure to set the hook how is a size six wide gape bending or breaking?
In reply to Post #78
All the pressure is on the point of the hook rather than on the bend.I had it happen on a mid double with a raptor hook.Only had one issue with a korda hook and that was a krank,it looked like the hook had missed part of the process of making it.It was only after closer inspection I noticed it was a different colour to the rest of the packet
All the pressure is on the point of the hook rather than on the bend.I had it happen on a mid double with a raptor hook.Only had one issue with a korda hook and that was a krank,it looked like the hook had missed part of the process of making it.It was only after closer inspection I noticed it was a different colour to the rest of the packet
In reply to Post #79
Yep. Hard spots in the mouth are just unlucky and I've snapped a few hooks on carp of various sizes. Like someone said earlier this is more prevalent in longshank hooks for obvious reasons.
Yep. Hard spots in the mouth are just unlucky and I've snapped a few hooks on carp of various sizes. Like someone said earlier this is more prevalent in longshank hooks for obvious reasons.
In reply to Post #78
Simply because it is not going in far enough at the start....
Whenever you take a hook out of a fish it lt always has to come out the same way it's gone in. No one ever pulls the hook through on the same line else you would never get the fookin thing out..
If its gone in up to the gape then there is no strain on the hookpoint right to the bottom of the gape to which there is zero chances of it opening.
You are pulling hooks out and straightening them simply because you haven't set the hook properly in the first place..🤷♂️
Simply because it is not going in far enough at the start....
Whenever you take a hook out of a fish it lt always has to come out the same way it's gone in. No one ever pulls the hook through on the same line else you would never get the fookin thing out..
If its gone in up to the gape then there is no strain on the hookpoint right to the bottom of the gape to which there is zero chances of it opening.
You are pulling hooks out and straightening them simply because you haven't set the hook properly in the first place..🤷♂️
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