So just back in the game after a break and chosen Gardner GT HD 15lb to re-spool with.
Watched a couple of YouTubes re knot strength so tied a grinner to a swivel and then wound the loose end on a lighter down to about 6 " and pulled steadily.
Tried it with two swivels also.
Anyway, the line snapped on every pull. Got some Touchdown at 20lb out from a tin from 2022 and it was a bit better but still broke although needed a bit more force which I sort of expected.
Is this the right way to test each knot or should I just cinch down. Never worried about it before but did have some lost fish but sure I'm tying the grinner correctly.
Does everyone exert pressure on the knots between the swivel and hook before casting out?
Watched a couple of YouTubes re knot strength so tied a grinner to a swivel and then wound the loose end on a lighter down to about 6 " and pulled steadily.
Tried it with two swivels also.
Anyway, the line snapped on every pull. Got some Touchdown at 20lb out from a tin from 2022 and it was a bit better but still broke although needed a bit more force which I sort of expected.
Is this the right way to test each knot or should I just cinch down. Never worried about it before but did have some lost fish but sure I'm tying the grinner correctly.
Does everyone exert pressure on the knots between the swivel and hook before casting out?
In reply to Post #1
Are you bedding the knot down properly after wetting it? Have you measured how much pull you are getting before it snaps. Is it snapping at the knot?
Are you bedding the knot down properly after wetting it? Have you measured how much pull you are getting before it snaps. Is it snapping at the knot?
In reply to Post #2
Yep. Wetting and teasing it down rather than pulling up. When I've got the knot down near the swivel I start teasing the tag back a bit then pulling hand/ body force tight.
Not measuring pull strength with anything as I say using a lighter body and a puller on the swivel.
Yep. Wetting and teasing it down rather than pulling up. When I've got the knot down near the swivel I start teasing the tag back a bit then pulling hand/ body force tight.
Not measuring pull strength with anything as I say using a lighter body and a puller on the swivel.
In reply to Post #3
Have a look at matt collins video on knot testing. Try using a longer kength of line and lifting a bucket of water, adding more water until the line breaks, then weigh bucket to get the b.s.
Have a look at matt collins video on knot testing. Try using a longer kength of line and lifting a bucket of water, adding more water until the line breaks, then weigh bucket to get the b.s.
In reply to Post #4
Thanks, will have a look ðŸ‘
Thanks, will have a look ðŸ‘
In reply to Post #1
Some lines really don't like grinner knots. Try swapping to a Palomar
Some lines really don't like grinner knots. Try swapping to a Palomar
Trilene knot 
I find the whole thing about testing knots a bit more harm than good.
I would back myself to break 12" of 40 mono all day if my life depended on it. The steady pull I get but you risk burning and damaging the line even if you bed in carefully.as stated below you need to use a realistic length of main line which then makes the task even harder, a fish will never have shorter length than about 30 foot, but as it's suspended by water you could tow a cow with most 15lb lines.
You then talk snags and stuff and I would far rather my knot went than midway between me and the fish. Tough lines for bars etc I get but this isn't about knot strength.
I tear the rs out of everything so many years ago had the below prototypes made as proper pulley tools, it ihas a strong compression sprint in it and you can mark (paint) force on the side of the spring - when that appears out the sleeve - job done. If nowhere near the hook I always leave about 4mm tag - I don't blob as I believe (not fact) this makes the end of mono brittle and likely to shatter.
Seeing as we (ct) designed this ages ago - I assume someone will Nick it and have copies on the shelves this spring (pun intended)
I would back myself to break 12" of 40 mono all day if my life depended on it. The steady pull I get but you risk burning and damaging the line even if you bed in carefully.as stated below you need to use a realistic length of main line which then makes the task even harder, a fish will never have shorter length than about 30 foot, but as it's suspended by water you could tow a cow with most 15lb lines.
You then talk snags and stuff and I would far rather my knot went than midway between me and the fish. Tough lines for bars etc I get but this isn't about knot strength.
I tear the rs out of everything so many years ago had the below prototypes made as proper pulley tools, it ihas a strong compression sprint in it and you can mark (paint) force on the side of the spring - when that appears out the sleeve - job done. If nowhere near the hook I always leave about 4mm tag - I don't blob as I believe (not fact) this makes the end of mono brittle and likely to shatter.
Seeing as we (ct) designed this ages ago - I assume someone will Nick it and have copies on the shelves this spring (pun intended)
In reply to Post #7
Is that the twice through the eye three and a half turn blood knot Dave?
If so I've been using it, with a slight difference, for many years and I've never had one fail.
Is that the twice through the eye three and a half turn blood knot Dave?
If so I've been using it, with a slight difference, for many years and I've never had one fail.
In reply to Post #6
Fox Zig hook link was one of those for me. I use grinners most of the time last decade or so but used to use a blood knot, mostly tucked.
The Palomar, I tried but could I consistently get it to bed properly, used to drive me nuts! Gave up in the end as I was throwing too much hooklink away.
Fox Zig hook link was one of those for me. I use grinners most of the time last decade or so but used to use a blood knot, mostly tucked.
The Palomar, I tried but could I consistently get it to bed properly, used to drive me nuts! Gave up in the end as I was throwing too much hooklink away.
In reply to Post #6
This is what I used with GTHD and it's not let me down yet. Even pulling for a break, is normally isn't the knot that goes. I've even had hooks straighten out before the palomar.
So easy to tie too ðŸ‘
This is what I used with GTHD and it's not let me down yet. Even pulling for a break, is normally isn't the knot that goes. I've even had hooks straighten out before the palomar.
So easy to tie too ðŸ‘
In reply to Post #1
Agree with Ian - with mono def use a palomar for all direct connections to swivels etc - very easy to tie with practice . . .
Cannot remember the last time I used a blood knot other than with very thick dia fluro on chods / booms etc (in this instance even a two turn is solid). Redundant these days as prefer crimps for consistency
Agree with Ian - with mono def use a palomar for all direct connections to swivels etc - very easy to tie with practice . . .
Cannot remember the last time I used a blood knot other than with very thick dia fluro on chods / booms etc (in this instance even a two turn is solid). Redundant these days as prefer crimps for consistency
As already mentioned try a Palomar knot.
What I like is if tied correctly it's near on possible to break, tied incorrectly and it will break fairly easily.
What I like is if tied correctly it's near on possible to break, tied incorrectly and it will break fairly easily.
In reply to Post #9
Trilene knot...
The demonstration below is with braid so its a little different to how I do it with mono main line.
I make the double loop, and keep it open, six or seven turns up, and two or three back down, then tag goes through the double loop. Wet, and draw down to tighten.
You end up with a fantastic secure knot that you can actually see flexing as its not a strangulation knot.
You may have to vary the amount to turns up and down to get the knot right for your line diameter, but once you have it sussed it really is the most reliable knot for mono, a bit better than the polomar, and much better than the grinner.
I'd recommend that you have a practice with this and once you get it right you will then realise just how good this is.
LINKY POO™ https://www.wired2fish.com/fishing-knots/how-to-tie-the-trilene-knot
Trilene knot...
The demonstration below is with braid so its a little different to how I do it with mono main line.
I make the double loop, and keep it open, six or seven turns up, and two or three back down, then tag goes through the double loop. Wet, and draw down to tighten.
You end up with a fantastic secure knot that you can actually see flexing as its not a strangulation knot.
You may have to vary the amount to turns up and down to get the knot right for your line diameter, but once you have it sussed it really is the most reliable knot for mono, a bit better than the polomar, and much better than the grinner.
I'd recommend that you have a practice with this and once you get it right you will then realise just how good this is.
LINKY POO™ https://www.wired2fish.com/fishing-knots/how-to-tie-the-trilene-knot
In reply to Post #14
Yup that's what I use, but with one less turn.
Yup that's what I use, but with one less turn.