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In reply to Post #24
It's brilliant Roger. You should get it out there. People will buy that.
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In reply to Post #23
Thank you and massively appreciate the feedback - we only ever made prototypes as it’s all of our stuff it was very niche and anything decent was shipped to China for copying!
The idea was born years and years ago at one of the carp shows, I was chatting rigs with Gary Bayes on the Nash stand and he tied a rig up and pulled his knot tight with a hair band, I asked what he was doing - he looked at me and said ‘I can snap 15lb line all day’ this beds the knot in and tests it at a strength that is realistic! Took me years to put that into some kind of workable product.
I will try and get you one knocked up and you can keep that and when the NGT version comes out you can say yeah - but my spring is better and original ;0)
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In reply to Post #8
That's genius Roger. Bloody genius. Why on earth did you not release it? If you have, why have I never seen or heard of it before?
That is clever. It solves the massive problem of shock when anglers test lines/knots over a very short length (less than arms length).
In a carpworld full of bits of far east plastic all copying the hell out of each other, with so very little or no innovation whatsoever (except from a couple firms)... That is truly amazing. You need to promote that seriously. Because otherwise one of the known shiesters will have it ripped off instantly & sell a boat load.
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In reply to Post #13
Agree, Palomar is so strong if you get it right.
Unfortunately with thicker \ stiffer lines it can take a bit of effort to bed it down correctly.
You need the two bits of line going round the eye uniform. (side by side and not crossed over each other)
As you say, done wrong and it will break easily.
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In reply to Post #20
Most mere mortals only break their mainline when snagged and pull for a break, and some even manage to break their line when casting.
When I used to do rig checks it was amazing/scary how many were unable to tie a solid reliable knot in their mainline and test it BEFORE casting out 
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I use Technium in 15lb for the vast majority of my fishing and I honestly couldn't give a fig whether my knots survive a pull of 15lb. They only need to survive the maximum pressure I can apply with my rods, plus a little, which is nothing near 15lbs. I use 15lb line because of the abrasion resistance it offers, not because I'll be putting 15lbs pressure on anything.
If I were snagged up, I would rather my mainline to swivel knot gave way first before my line, so as to leave a bare minimum of tackle in the water or up a tree. Incedentedly I can't remember the last time I pulled for a break.
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Check out YouTube. Plenty of the Yankee bass anglers have got videos testing the best knots for different materials.
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Looks like the Palomar is the next step…Trilene,,,😁
Thanks for all the info 👍
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For about the past 30 years I have used a bucket of water, I fill it up to the exact weight of 15lb or whatever the BS is of my hooklength and when I have tied my rigs, I hold the loop with either 6" nail or a knot puller and very slowly try to lift the bucket, when its off the ground, the knot has passed.
I am not interested in messing about constantly topping up a bucket to find out what they break at, you don't need to know that, you just need to know that they will not break before what they are expected to break at. If you do have rigs that break well before you expect them to during testing, then its worth finding out at what BS they do break at as then you might discover you have bought a "Duff" spool of hooklength or its old etc, or your knots are not compatible with it etc or you can stop using that brand and make if their appears to be nothing wrong with it.
And my preffered knot is the Palomar
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In reply to Post #14
Yup that's what I use, but with one less turn.
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In reply to Post #9
Trilene knot...
The demonstration below is with braid so its a little different to how I do it with mono main line.
I make the double loop, and keep it open, six or seven turns up, and two or three back down, then tag goes through the double loop. Wet, and draw down to tighten.
You end up with a fantastic secure knot that you can actually see flexing as its not a strangulation knot.
You may have to vary the amount to turns up and down to get the knot right for your line diameter, but once you have it sussed it really is the most reliable knot for mono, a bit better than the polomar, and much better than the grinner.
I'd recommend that you have a practice with this and once you get it right you will then realise just how good this is.
LINKY POO™ https://www.wired2fish.com/fishing-knots/how-to-tie-the-trilene-knot
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As already mentioned try a Palomar knot.
What I like is if tied correctly it's near on possible to break, tied incorrectly and it will break fairly easily.
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In reply to Post #1
Agree with Ian - with mono def use a palomar for all direct connections to swivels etc - very easy to tie with practice . . .
Cannot remember the last time I used a blood knot other than with very thick dia fluro on chods / booms etc (in this instance even a two turn is solid). Redundant these days as prefer crimps for consistency
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In reply to Post #6
This is what I used with GTHD and it's not let me down yet. Even pulling for a break, is normally isn't the knot that goes. I've even had hooks straighten out before the palomar.
So easy to tie too 👍
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In reply to Post #6
Fox Zig hook link was one of those for me. I use grinners most of the time last decade or so but used to use a blood knot, mostly tucked.
The Palomar, I tried but could I consistently get it to bed properly, used to drive me nuts! Gave up in the end as I was throwing too much hooklink away.
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