|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #25
If that works I am going to be well impressed, if it was not so hot id go and try it.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #25
Great post thank you
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #23
Line twist is something we all must try and avoid. It's not the reel or the line that's at fault.
One reel is much the same as another and doesn't add to line twist.
Most line twist occurs when a reel is loaded with the spool not in the best position to spool up correctly.
The line coming off a baitrunner or drag will increase line twist, and also some lead shapes will make the lead spin when retrieved at speed and the swivel does nothing to reduce twist!
When I have noticed line twist I just unspin it, as follows...
If you are noticing significant line twist when you let your line go slack and it wants to coil around the rod tip, or when you reel in and let the lead dangle and you see it spinning then you need to remove it.
It is essential to keep the tension in the line when reeling in so most twist is compressed into the section of line between the rod tip and the lead.
I will remove the hooklength and give it a big cast into open water, then reel in and allow the lead to hang opposite the reel, and as I lift the rod to near vertical you can see the lead starts to spin. You must keep the tension in the line from tip to lead. Note which way the lead is spinning, this is the direction of spin to remove line twist.
Be sure to note which way your twist wants to unwind...
Rather than wait for ages for the lead to keep untwisting the line you can actually spin the lead yourself to speed things up.
When the lead no longer wants to spin in the "untwisting" direction you are not done, as you have only removed the twist in the section from rod tip to lead where the twist has been compressed. You now need to continue to spin the lead in the same direction a few more times.
This is putting counter twist into the line... it seems wrong, but all will even out in a minute.
You can then cast out a medium distance, but no massive chucks to prevent fraps from the added counter twist. Now let the line go semi slack, and the added counter twist will now counter any twist that was already in the line further out from the rod tip!
Reel in and let the lead dangle. Now there should be minimal twist or no twist.
If the lead still wants to spin in the "untwist" direction the repeat the above a couple more times, adding more counter twist.
When there is no more twist when you hang the lead i like to still add some more counter twist to help keep the line under control.
If you now reel in and the lead want to spin in opposite direction to "untwisting" then it means you have added a bit too much counter twist. This is no big problem as it will soon even itself out once you do a couple of big cast.
Try it... This does work 100%.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #23
but at least I ended up with all my link swivels easy to find in my tacklebox. 
In theory the walking out in a field or casting a pva weight should be the best method.
I had terrible line twist once and the walking out in a field umpteen times would never got rid of it. I gave up and changed the line in the end.
I put that twist down to spooling on new line using the label facing towards you, and yes I was doubly careful to make sure the label facing me was the correct way.
Since reverting back to the pencil method I've not a had problems like that again.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #22
>>>But do swivels actually swivel when in use?<<<
To be honest, I do not think swivels work as well as they are supposed too. In theory, if you had line twist and you cast out with a heavy lead with a swivel and let the lead settle on the bottom and just allow your line to go slightly slack so their is no tension on the swivel, the twist in the line should "Spin" the swivel, but, it never seems to happen.
The way to test that would be just lower a swiveled lead into a bucket of water, let the "Twisted" line go slack and see if the swivel turns. or just dangle a swiveled lead and hold it in your hand and lift it slightly and once again, see if the swivel turns.
Somewhere online I once read that if you connect up to 20 link swivels together to form a chain, tie it to your line and fasten it to a fence post etc and walk your line out it will get rid of line twist when you slacken the line and jiggle it a bit, I tried it, it never worked but at least I ended up with all my link swivels easy to find in my tacklebox.
Also when you use a Spin Doctor etc and it states, a short cast followed by a long cast will get rid of line twist, but, that will only work if the amount of line twist can be got rid of with a short cast followed by a long cast. If the line twist is severe, you may need more than just one long cast, and if the line twist is not severe enough for a short cast and a long cast, then you could end up with line twist in the opposite direction. So basically, using a Spin Doctor is guesswork. And the only way to judge how much line twist you have is let a lead dangle from the rod tip and see how fast it spins and which direction.
I once bought some Mitchell reels (Avocast I think) because I heard how good they were and I needed a set of cheap reels, they were the worst reels I had ever used, line twist was horrendous, just let the line go slack momentarilly and it would "Twist Up" round anything, reel handles, rod tip. rod eyes, twigs, grass, and if you let the line go really slack, you would wind in "Birds Nests". After about 6 uses, they got slung into the back of the shed, I had a fear of losing a fish because my line had become twisted somewhere between rod tip and lead and a "Birds Nest" had formed and under tension, the line snapped easy.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #20
But do swivels actually swivel when in use?
Forgetting about a hook length for a moment.
If you cast just an arlesey bomb tied to the end of the line, when you reel in won't the swivel lock in one position due to the tension of the swivel? you could say the swivel won't swivel because the lead is symmetrical and so won't spin anyway.
But what if you took off the arlesey and put a Spin Doctor on but with a swivel.
The Spin Doctor will spin but will the swivel actually swivel?
I have a feeling it wont because the swivel will lock under tension.
I've asked this before and someone said if you used ball bearing swivels then they would actually swivel. I've not tried that because I'm not actually that bothered.
I just thought it was something people might want to talk about.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #19
I don't know how but some how I managed to miss that 
|
|
|
|
|
Seems most of the problem nowadays is people lock in both ends of the swivel so it’s used more as a knot junction and not a swivel.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #18
I already have done in post 13
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #17
That's a shame can you try to describe it
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #16
I don't
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #15
Have you got a picture?
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #14
>>>You reckon the one should be good enough?<<<
With my homemade "Spin Doctors" definitely.
What I have found with a Spin Doctor is, if you draw them across in front of you as fast or as slow as you can and watch them, they hardly spin, they just seem to wobble, but my homemade ones spin like a lure.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #13
Seen a couple of vids where it says to do one short cast and then one long one.
You reckon the one should be good enough?
|
|
|
|
I was never happy with the "Spin Doctor" when you have bad line twist so I made my own to deal with that situation
I just got a flat uncoated pear lead, cut the swivel off and filed a 45 degree angle into both the narrow sides. The trick is knowing which way to cut the angles otherwise they make the twist worse. Just one good long cast and jobs a good one, but don't try two casts as they spin like hell and you will end up with line twist worse than what you started with but the opposite way.
|
|
General Carp Discussion