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In reply to Post #12
I looked back on my locslide and Polaris floats purchased between 15 & 20 years ago years ago.
With the Polaris ones they have two slots on the bottom depending on line diameter - I remember they were particularly sensitive to that.
I moved onto locslide for pike fishing as stronger line was needed and I found with the Polaris they just stuck too much.
Polaris were more used for bream, tench & small carp. They were a welcome change to the days of watching a target board for bites.
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In reply to Post #14
Thanks, Not heard of those before.
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In reply to Post #12
Kelly Klip float adaptors, have a look on the bay for these. Work well and you choose the float. A heavy lead really helps for setting the float with any polaris style setup. Also the deep water as you have found out.
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In reply to Post #12
The dumpy carp stalker is the closest to the ones I use (now discontinued) - they had a similar fat end but were slightly shorter and tapered (like an ESP mini marker float) . . .perhaps give it an outing especially with a larger lead (eg 1oz)
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In reply to Post #10
I was using the following;
NO.2 CARP CHUCKER WAGGLER
NO.3 CARP DUMPY WAGGLER
I also have a NO.16 DUMPY CARP STALKER but its quite large so didn't try it.
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In reply to Post #8
Check for kinks in the line
good shout, also worth checking if you have line twist, if that coils back on itself your float doesn't stand a chance 
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In reply to Post #9
What float are you using? (polaris specific name) You want as dumpy a float as poss
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In reply to Post #8
The floats were new so they should've been clear.
I've ordered new line just in case that was the case.
I also changed to a from a 7g with to a 2oz weight to see if that was the issue.
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In reply to Post #1
Check for kinks in the line and that the mechanism isn't blocked with gunk / weed. A heavier weight also helps (to ascertain the donk) as does a slack line to ensure the float rises quickly. The mech is designed to stop the float on a tight line so only do this when its risen properly / is in place.
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I definitely left the line slack for ages to allow the float to rise. I was leaving 20 - 30 seconds i some cases before flailing the bail arm over.
I was testing the float in the margins which were around 3 ½ feet deep and the float rose to the surface almost immediately.
I definitely leaning towards it being a depth issue as the float wasn't rising at all when casting to the deeper parts of the lake. The floats should have been able to cope though as one was rated to 8 feet and the other to 10 feet. When I reeled the line in the float was showing around 6 feet max to the weight. I ended up using a 2oz weight in the end (for a 7g min float) and still had the same issue.
I've ordered some different line that I read was supposed to be super smooth incase the line I'm using is causing too much friction.
I'm using them for carp fishing as an alternative to traditional waggles techniques which are proving to be less effective than using a method feeder etc.
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In reply to Post #4
Yes, that's quite right ,both Polaris and loc slide floats show the depth when you reel in...however it's not quite the true depth the angler is fishing ..
This is because,when you tighten up ,from the rod tip to the float ,this creates an angle due to the angle of the line from rod to float ,therefore its not entirely accurate..
I don't ever use a lead clip, as I fish it free running lead,and as I mentioned ,I use a small stop ,so that when you ,rebait and create slackine,which allows the float to slide down to recast or rebait it allows you to separate either the Polaris or locslide from the end tackle,especially if your fishing straight through,and not using rig ie a hair rig or other.. ie,it's not all bunched up at the end..
I use either Polaris or locslides,they work great at night especially with a chemical light ..I don't just use them for carp,they brilliant for other species,..especially eels on the prawns or cockles ,when float rises ,time to strike ,when it disappears,also time to lift that rod gently..
I believe ,that locslides are a bit better than polaris I have to say..
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In reply to Post #1
I have in the past used Polaris floats and still carry them but prefer to use a braid stop knot. I find it easier once I know the depth.
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In reply to Post #3
You must have some different Polaris floats to me as all mine lock on the line on retrieval showing the depth you’ve been fishing in. Because of this, I’ve had no need for a float stop between float and lead. I just use a lead clip with a 1-2oz lead.
The only suggestion I have for the OP is try the smaller hole on the float & if that doesn’t work try varying the weight as each float has a suggested lead size.
Once I’ve casted out I just leave the bail arm open until the float shows then slowly tighten up until you get the float how you want it, nothing complicated about it.
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I use a Polaris a fair amount..
I learnt to make sure that there is enough weight to stop the float dragging on the bottom when tightening up to the reel...also,I use a stop ,small shot ...so when I retrieve the float it doesn't slide all the way down to the lead or feeder ,which can cause issues
When cast out.
Then I'd tighten up gently til just the tip was showing, I use a centrepin sometimes ,and it would have to be used in conjunction with ratchet on,as the line will peel off,of course no such issue with a fixed spool.
Edit,also ....I much prefer the loc slide float ,designed by Dave Thomas..I have both ..
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In reply to Post #1
You was giving the float plenty of slack to rise up? Any tension would lock the float in place.
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Tackle