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In reply to Post #22
Good video 👍🏻 Im not sure what tests christian who posted earlier was doing to get his results mind.
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In reply to Post #21
https://youtu.be/cp6b_AhxVGI
Think this will explain everything 😉
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"Problem is our tackle manufacturer fashionistas set what is popular" 100%!!!
I feel so sorry for people who have started in the last 10-15yrs, as now almost all easily obtained carp fishing information comes from commercial sources.
On the rod front I feel things have got so ridiculous that I have had to start putting them together myself just to get something sensible, my completed stalky type rod will fit clean through the centre of a 50mm butt guide!
To the OP.
If you really want to find out whats what with your rods when it comes to fish playing power I would strongly suggest that you try some deadlifts with them. I DO NOT MEAN lifting weights straight off the floor!! I do it using a pulley & weights and hold the rod flat so the curve in the rod and line angle can be easily observed.
Testing rods like this has been a MASSIVE eye opener and has totally changed how I view some of my rods and what they are suitable for. Having done a bit of it I can honestly say that until I do a good heavy deadlift on a rod, I have no idea how it will perform. Testing a rod like this also lets you feel how forgiving the butt section is under stress, by gently bouncing the weight you can feel for any little "lock ups" in the action.
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In reply to Post #15
Problem is our tackle manufacturer fashionistas set what is popular.
50mm butt eyes on 2.75lb test curve rods, then 3.5lb tc, or 8ft short rods.
I believe that it was Richard Walker and his friends who came out with the concept of 11 and 12ft rods for carp fishing, because they found it the best length. We have surely moved on and forgotten.
I've landed fish to 34lb on 2.75lb TC rods from just out from the tip, to 150metres out and never did I feel that I was struggling.
This test curve rating, the weight required to pull the rod tip to an angle of 90⁰ could actually be photographed and used to show the action. You will see if a rod is tip or through action, because obvious it may sound, the fast taper tip action will be at the tip only, compared to all the way through.
The heavier test curve faster tip action is required for casting distance, that does not mean it is better for playing fish on.
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In reply to Post #17
Just remember that the lever is working in the fishes favour, so the shorter the lever the more of your effort is transferred.
Test curve doesn't mean a great deal tbh, as it only rates the tip. Faster actioned rods like the hi s, you could chop a few inches off the tip and nearly double the tc. I like low tc, semi fast action rods that maintain a level of elasticity in the butt when the rod is bent to extremes, from brief experience the hi s 2.5 didn't quite match that criteria but I'd still favour them in the op's situation. If your taking a backup set anyway it doest matter much if you don't feel comfortable with them really.
What I've found over the years is most people like to feel that the rod has a lot more to give, even after being shown a bendy rod pulls a lot harder, and that to actually use that 'power in reserve' on a stiff rod the effort would be extreme
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In reply to Post #17
Think of the rod butt handle as the pivot point. A through action rod will be shorter than a fast taper when compressed to its test curve so requires less pull on the second handle to exert the same force down the line.
Putting it another way, the fish has a shorter lever with a through action so cannot exert so much force on your second handle.
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Can anyone explain the physics behind this?..in my mind a fast taper rod gives you more leverage..but I do understand if a rod is bent to its test curve then your putting any excess pressure on the fish.
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In reply to Post #13
yes its common people dont realise the reality
ALL my biggest fish quite a few 50s upto 68lb have been landed on my Century NGs 2.75lb
and the very best Snag rods I ever used
were a pair of old Original Fox warrior a soft 2.75lb that were fantastic like a big bungy slowing the fish and absorbing lunges stopping any hook pulls
and of course once compressed the enormous pulling power comes into play puling the fish out I been carp fishing since 1962 and probably got over 25 years of snag fishing alone !!
and seen peoples posts about rods and pulling power and it does make me  what they imagine and theorize are 2 different things in reality
the ONLY time I ever needed anything heavier was because I could not use a boat to row out the baits and needed to cast further
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In reply to Post #8
Yup, if you're not casting may aswell just use your 2.5's. They're not going to snap, and they'll probably lock up anyway unless they're avon\true through action type blanks.
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In reply to Post #12
Unfortunately you are still wrong, mebees run your tests again as you have cocked them up.
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In reply to Post #11
I won't be surprised because I have actually done it, and I am not wrong. When a stiff butted rod locks up that's it it can go no further and neither can a fish, a slow taper/soft actioned rod just keeps bending until you are flat rodded, especially with a 2.5lb tc.
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In reply to Post #10
Your entitled to your opinion but you will find that you are wrong. Tie a through actioned 2.5 rod to some scales and then do it with a fast actioned 3 or 3.25 rod and you will be suprised a which one applies more pressure. The fast action rod locks out as it has no more to give where the through actioned 2.5 will apply more pressure as it loads right down through the butt. The only reason for the higher test curves is to cast further not to apply more pressure on the fish.
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I'm going to disagree with every one now and say it really depends on the specific rod. I don't agree that you can put more pressure on with a through actioned rod than a fast taper or more precisely stiff butted rod. A 2.5lb tc rod with a through action will just flatten straight out at 90yds even with a relatively small fish. I'm not saying you need a 3.5/3.75 distance rod because you don't, but I wouldn't go below 3lb with a fast taper or 3.25 with a through action rod in the situation you described. It's only an opinion of course but in my mind you need to be able to stop fish if you need to...and if there are deep margins you will be playing fish far longer than you need to with 2.5lb rods.
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👍🏻 thats what i would be using. I used to have the hi s in 2.5 and they were lovely rods. I use some 2.5 century graphenes now. Love a light through actioned rod. I feel for all these people coming into carp fishing now as they all think you need a 3.5-3.75 tc rod after watching a thinking tackle episode. There really missing out.
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