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In reply to Post #48
No idea, but after reading this article I did some tests myself and saw it happening, it didn't happen everytime but enough to make me stop using a ronnie with a wafter. My catch rate also went up.
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In reply to Post #46
Has that been a problem for the millions of stripped coated braid rigs that’s been cast out?
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In reply to Post #46
Thanks for the reply . From a movement point of view I can’t see why you wouldn’t use the ring on the German but use it on a Ronnie , thanks.
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In reply to Post #45
With the ring the hook can fall backwards over the hooklink. (I think it's due to how the rig falls through the water)
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In reply to Post #44
When using the German with a wafter what are the pros and cons of using a ring swivel as opposed to one without the ring, thanks ?
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In reply to Post #43
What's that one I can't remember 
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In reply to Post #42
Having used the slip d and the German I find I still prefer the amnesia d rig 
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Having used both the slip d and German. I find the slip d a far better rig. So much so that I don’t use the German anymore
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In reply to Post #40
Anyone use the turbo on a D rather than straight on the shank?
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In reply to Post #34
Yes, size 7. Fish it turbo German style with a korda ac swivel (without the ring) and a trimmed down Nash tungsten kicker
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In reply to Post #36
I use size 7 and not had an issue with them
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In reply to Post #37
Thanks that's good to know
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In reply to Post #36
I’ve used the Trigs in 5s and 6s on a very weedy water and had no issues
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In reply to Post #35
what size hooks are you using with the trighammers i have heard stories of the smaller sizes being opened up quite easily, ive got some in various sizes only had a handfull of fish on them which haven't let me down but they do look quite fine in the wire
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In reply to Post #34
I have,its fine and get good hook holds 
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In reply to Post #33
Has anyone used the German with a Trighammer hook, gonna give it a go at the weekend, like the idea of its longer sweeping curve increasing hooking potential?
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In reply to Post #32
Haven't actually had it myself but have heard of this can happen with Muggas
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In reply to Post #31
Used the German today size 6 Mugga 12 mm wafter 7” of semi stiff coated braid all set correctly- had a fish of about 10lb didn’t weight it but it was doubled hooked (stitched) which I don’t like at all what would of it caused this? I have fished the Mugga pattern before and had this but not on other curved hooks is it the angle of the eye?
Can you use a wide gape hook on a German rig?
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In reply to Post #30
The rig turns quicker with the putty imo.
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In reply to Post #29
No mate , the trick link is ideal for the German rig , no need for putty imo but if it gives you confidence then I suppose it won’t do any harm . I prefer the trick link in the 25lb as it’s a bit stiffer . I would imagine stiff flourocarbon would work well with this rig
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In reply to Post #28
I think I got done at the weekend on a German rig - I was using size 6 Mugga to Gardner tricklink, putty 1” back with a trimmed down wafter - I think IT was a slight lack of flex at the hook-end. I’ve just bought some banktackle semi stiff hooklink to try?
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Im another that only uses the muggas in a size 2 and 4 , a lot may use and have total confidence in the size 6 and 8 muggas but with the more inturned eye of the mugga compared to most curve hooks ive never been confident in the size 6 as to me the gape becomes smaller.
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In reply to Post #25
Stick with the 4’s. Mugga’s aren’t a big pattern... I had a 3lber on a 4 the other day! I use the 2’s for bottom bait fishing and even they disappear in a 20lbers gob.
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In reply to Post #25
I always use a size 4 if I'm honest regardless. I only really change the hook size if I change the size of the bait for example but for most its a size 4. Usually a wafter or snowman presentation.
I have caught plenty of mid double fish with size 4 hooks no worries at all. I have fallen into the trap numerous times of getting too hung up on rigs etc and everytime i do I just remind myself I know this rig works.
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In reply to Post #23
Have to agree with you esp semi stiff tungsten loaded to a size 4 mugga but if you were fishing a typical club water and most of the carp were upper doubles and a few twenty’s up to about 24lb would you drop down to a size 6 mugga or would you stick with a size 4.
Cheers
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In reply to Post #8
the whole point of the rig is for the whole thing to be semi stiff, and not to have any flexi or stripped back sections. Think about it....once that rigs sucked in by a carp.....it is going to be a nightmare for them to blow back out due to the stiffness. Its why the hinge stiff rig works so well.
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In reply to Post #1
esp semi stiff tungsten loaded to a size 4 mugga.
small anti tangle sleave from the leadclip
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In reply to Post #14
I use a loop and connect to a QC swivel but rather than anti tangle tubing to secure it I just use a 4mm bead so still get plenty of movement at that end, also fish it Turbo style
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Cheers chaps for taking the time to reply....
The hook holds have been spot on,,,, every one dead centre of the bottom lip..... ill keep everything the same until it stops working.....
This is also the first time i have used proper job pop ups... i got a couple of tubs of different flavours with mixed sizes etc in each tub....the 11mm pop ups need some serious putty to balance the rig...god knows how much you need for the 15mm.....ill save them for when I’m fishing HSR rigs....
Tight lines
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In reply to Post #17
If what you are doing is working and you are hooking the takes, then what you are doing is right.
If you start losing fish, then play around to improve things, but only try one change at a time.
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In reply to Post #18
I'm a big fan of the German. One lake im fishing has a no curved shank hook rule, so I haven't used them. Thinking I could get a similar effect with a longshank and kicker - anyone used this?
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In reply to Post #17
It’s working mate, stick with it and come to your own conclusions
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Hi chaps,
Rather than start a new thread, I’d thought I’d resurrect this old one....
I have started using the German rig recently and my last 5 fish have all fallen to this rig, so i must be doing something right...but I’ve been doing a bit of googleing and it appears i have been setting the rig incorrectly....(but it seems to be working)
I tie it using semi stiff coated braid and have the hook stop opposite the bard...i have used both Mugga hooks and krank hooks...caught on both 3-2 in favour of the Mugga.....
I have been weighting the Rig so the hook point just hoovers above the bottom..l thought this rig worked best with wafters... but my google searches suggest the hook should lay flat on the lakebed with the bait just wafting above....also it also suggests the rig is suitable for bottom baits and snowman set ups....
Any advice would be appreciated
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In reply to Post #15
Ok cool thanks
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I understand what your saying about movement and how it would help the rig mechanics but I wouldn’t worry . I go straight to a quick change link and use a large anti tangle sleeve and large 2” figure of eight to connect it , which in turn with the anti tangle makes a rather large boom , the rig doesn’t look very flexible but it just works really well
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In reply to Post #13
Yeh thats my thinking. Surely it would be more effective tying it direct to the ring swivel direct rather than a quick change system and anti tangle sleeve
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In reply to Post #11
You've still got movement with an anti tangle sleeve but it relies on the swivel working properly, and sitting at the right angle. as you say - people use it with an anti tangle sleeve and catch - but I wonder how many takes don't convert with the lack of ability to rotate.
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In reply to Post #11
Its also the reason people started using the rig turbo style to aid movement at the hookend due to the stiffness of the rig and anti tangle sleeve
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In reply to Post #10
Exactly a ring gives more movement to the whole hooklink than an anti tangle sleeve and because there is no break in the coating surely it will aid the mechanics of the rig. I use d rigs alot and always use a big figure of 8 loop at the lead end to allow the rig to move freely due to the stiff materials used to make the d rig. Alot of people do use it with an anti tangle sleeve and do well so who knows.
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In reply to Post #9
The reason they're talking about the extra movement and not using an anti tangle sleeve because of the stiffness of the material all the way through to the hook - for the hook to rotate the entire hooklink needs to rotate too, whereas with a combi rig you have the uncoated braid part to help the hook rotate.
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In reply to Post #8
I would think more about the movement at the hook end than I would the end simply connecting the rig to the mainline.
I purely use anti-tangle sleeves to do exactly that and stop the rig wrapping itself back round the mainline upon casting. It has no bearing in my opinion on hooking properties and is only there to ensure the rig is presented properly
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In reply to Post #7
The reason i worry about the anti tangle sleeve is because there is no breaking in the coating so was just wondering if the sleeve would hinder movement of the rig and prevent hook turning. With traditional combi rigs you have the supple bit at the end so the anti tangle sleeve doesnt affect the hook catchimg hold. Tying it to the ring gives more movement than the anti tagle sleeve and i normaly tie rigs direct to ring swivel for this reason. That is my thinking but alot of people say it doesnt seem to affect rig mechanics so will give it a go.
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I normally tie my German Rigs with ESP Tungsten Semi Stiff. I find this to work for me. I have also used Korda IQ2 and found this to be just as effective!
With regards to an anti tangle sleeve, I can’t say it has ever caused me any problems! I would use it on any other standard Lead Clip Presentations so why would it be any different for a German Rig?
Something I also like to do is use a small piece of shrink tube just to cover the eye of the hook and help to keep the aggressive angle of the braid on the exit of the hook.
It is a brilliant rig and I have 100% confidence in it
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In reply to Post #5
I use an anti tangle sleeve and have never had an issue.I use wafters and have a tungsten sinker not too far from the eye of the hook,the sinker seems to pull the hook down into the fishes bottom lip as it picks up the bait
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In reply to Post #4
Yes i use Muggas all the time so they are my hook of choice. I just worry with an anti tangle sleeve it restricts movement so tying it to the ring surely helps the hook move and turn
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In reply to Post #1
Soft to semi stiff work well, no stiffer
Ive always found movement key with it. I either tie it to a ring swivel or use a qc clip with a slither of silicone to keep it secure
My tips for you are, use a big hook, size 4 or 2 curve shank (i use a mugga) and put a big dollop of putty between an inch and 2 inches from the hook
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In reply to Post #1
Started using this for the start on this year on a water with a total braid ban, used ghost soft. It worked well enough. Prefer combi rig with a soft braid section but needs, must.
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In reply to Post #1
Personally I use a semi stiff braid, esp tungsten loaded and use a small anti tangle sleeve to add the re setting.
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Hi guys
Im going to give the german a go this season when i can eventually go fishing. Going to tie a few up and i have a few questions to ask people who have had lots of experience using it:
- can you use it with a soft coated braid or is better to use with stiffer coated braids? Reason i ask is i do prefer a softer coated hooklink but do also use stiffer ones.
- do you use anti-tangle sleeve on lead clip set up or tie it direct to the ring swivel to aid movement?
Many thanks
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Rigs