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 New Posts  Coleman Stove maintenance
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baz55
Posts: 1778
baz55
   Old Thread  #1181 18 Nov 2011 at 12.53pm  0  Login    Register
In reply to Post #1179
Just hook it out with a stringer needle or similar , preferably an old one if you dont fancy petrol residue on one you use for baits . hook behind it and pull gently,
Darkieallard
Posts: 4726
   Old Thread  #1180 17 Nov 2011 at 1.54am  0  Login    Register
Do you mean the non return ball bearing valve Richard?
If so i think the spring goes on them and you have to replace the whole generator.
I rang up coleman and they gave me a parts department they use in the uk.
Im sure the company i used is Johncross. If not try oldgeezer on the forum is pretty clued up about coleman stoves.

Try this website for spares, Im not sure if its the cheapest but the prices seem reasonable.
Johnscross spares
respin1228
Posts: 2377
respin1228
   Old Thread  #1179 16 Nov 2011 at 9.42am  0  Login    Register
hi guys, been having problems with my stove for a bit and decided to investigate, found the generator was partially blocked so took it off and soaked it and was quite impressed at the amount of crap i got out of it to be honest. now when i came to put it back on somehow the valve inside the generator has slipped back up inside and i cant seem to get at it to get it out.






any ideas guys?

do i need to get a new generator and if so where is best to buy from? and how do i stop this happening with a new one.

many thanks in advance

lalakis
Posts: 3
   Old Thread  #1178 4 Nov 2011 at 11.27pm  0  Login    Register
In reply to Post #1176
Well, the check valve got here alright, but it proved impossible to take out the old one, so I'm pretty much stuck with a brick. I tried car mechanics and metal shops around the village we're at now, none of them could extract what seems like a totally stuck valve.

Field serviceability... not impressed.
Auntiemogs
Posts: 1
   Old Thread  #1177 29 Oct 2011 at 5.50pm  0  Login    Register
In reply to Post #1174
Hi, just had the same problem. I f you take off the pump mechanism, the bar that slots into it may be jammed. It can be freed carefully using a pair of pliers.
lalakis
Posts: 3
   Old Thread  #1176 7 Oct 2011 at 0.10am  0  Login    Register
In reply to Post #1175
Thanks for the note.

I contacted Coleman UK and a quite helpful chap had the following to say:

[...]your problem is the check valve ( one way valve ) which is in the bottom of the pump cylinder these do normally perish over time ( i.e. years ) these cost Ģ9.99 & can be replaced by using a 3/4 " metal file & a pair of molgrips simply unscrew & replace

I ordered the part (which btw appears to cost 25% of that in the US...) and will let you know how it goes when I receive it.

Cheers

Alex
Darkieallard
Posts: 4726
   Old Thread  #1175 3 Oct 2011 at 4.14am  0  Login    Register
Hi Alex it sounds like the little non-return ball bearing is not working on your stove, i had the same problem with my Duel fuel tilley lamp but i just put it down to genral wear and tear of the leather seal splitting, after buying a new generator and leather seal they lamp worked fine. I know they say you should try and give it 30 plunges to prime this and to be honest it wouldnt work for me. I found it hard and expensive to obtain spares from coleman's but did find a shop on Ebay which sells spare leather seals and generators. If not try Gerry Oldgeezer on the forum i know hes pretty clued up with the coleman range
lalakis
Posts: 3
   Old Thread  #1174 2 Oct 2011 at 11.57pm  0  Login    Register
Hi all

Iīve cooked at least 100 meals on my Sportster 533 (which Iīve had for 3 years now). Yesterday I went to bed with a cold sandwich.

Symptom: Itīs impossible to do the first step (pump 30 times to build pressure before lighting the stove), as the pump will not even accept being pumped ONCE with my finger on the hole...

With the hole uncovered the pump appears to move in and out as normal.

I have drained the fuel, left the fuel cap open while pumping, no difference. Itīs still impossible to pump even once.

I took the pump out to have a look and this is what it looks like: Photo of pump

As I am "in the field" (cyclo-touring in Chile) I donīt have proper oil, but I sprayed WD-40 all over the pump parts and reassembled to no avail.

1. Is this seal broken? The center part looks quite regularly shaped and thus normal to me.
2. What else could be going on here?
3. If worse comes to worst and I have to get spare parts where do I order them from? Coleman USA even though the stove was purchased in the UK?

Cheers

Alex
Monster_Crab
Posts: 69
Monster_Crab
   Old Thread  #1173 30 Sept 2011 at 3.29pm  0  Login    Register
In reply to Post #1172
I have a new gen for my sportster but it's dfferent to my old one, in that the end which goes under the burner and is fixed in place by the plate and 2 screws, is round, whereas on my old one it's hex.

I'm assuming this won't fit, and don't want to open the packaging as it would prevent me returning it. My stove is getting on for 20 years old so maybe I need an older version with a hex nut, or maybe the round one will still fit - can anyone clarify please?
souris
Posts: 11
souris
   Old Thread  #1172 18 Sept 2011 at 2.18pm  0  Login    Register
In reply to Post #1171
Sounds like your generator again. I have experienced similar issues and reverted to cleaning everything out by using the Coleman fuel every five or six fill ups. In between I use normal 2 star with redex as suggested by BM in post 1000. I assume you have checked that the "L" shaped brass tag on the end of the wire is correctly positioned in the valve as well??

Incidently if you really want to sort out your stoves go and read post 1000 it is very detailed and contains some excellent advise.
rik-o-shea
Posts: 1216
rik-o-shea
   Old Thread  #1171 16 Jul 2011 at 5.16pm  0  Login    Register
In reply to Post #1170
Ok my sportster 533 has a problem, when I turn the red lever it's a bit temperamental and fuel sometimes comes out properly and then other times it only comes out slightly?! I have stripped it and cleaned it all up but it's still the same! Any ideas people?? Gen was only replaced about 6 months ago!!
knashiwish
Posts: 5
knashiwish
   Old Thread  #1170 15 Jun 2011 at 6.57pm  0  Login    Register
In reply to Post #1169
i have the same stove and i contacted coleman in the states to find out how to get my stove serviced they told me how to do it myself its really simple just be careful when you take it apart its a little fiddly getting the fuel bar off but once you have in bits its simple to clean and will save you a small fortune taking it to a shop to do the same job they told me its just carbon clogging the holes so just use a toothbrush on all the bits and a little petrol and job done hope this helps a little
just 1 thing DONT take out the rockwool inside you wont get it back in just clean off as much crap as you can
Bream_Boy
Posts: 9735
Bream_Boy
   Old Thread  #1169 14 Jun 2011 at 1.03am  0  Login    Register
My coleman is occassionally emitting flames from under the burner unit, and also sometimes when it is switched off I can hear fuel escaping.

Before I take the thing to pieces and work out that I don't know what is wrong with it can anyone thing of any likely scenarios?

It is very erratic, it will be fine for ages then do it a few times in sucession. It nearly got booted into the lake on Friday night when the whole thing errupted in flames. Had I not been so desperate for a brew it would have done

Releasing the pressure stops the fuel leaking (obviously), is it likely to be something to do with the lever assembley not pushing the wire all the way back through and allowing fuel to escape? It sounds like it is coming from under ther burner unit though which makes my first suggestion near enough impossible.
Mikeffa
Posts: 118
Mikeffa
   Old Thread  #1168 6 Jun 2011 at 8.45pm  0  Login    Register
Having Real Trouble With My Stove, The Generator Was Broken So Ive Replace That And Now When Igniting The Flame Goes Sky High, And When Turning Off Its Still Letting Out A Little Bit Of Fule And Wont Stop !! Does AnyBody Know Whats The Problem !!

I havnt Got The Receipt AnyMore Can I Still Send It Off To Get It Serviced ?

Any Help Is Much Appreciated

Thanks !!
PeteK
Posts: 5905
PeteK
   Old Thread  #1167 28 Mar 2011 at 8.30pm  0  Login    Register
In reply to Post #1166
It's between posts 76 and 1158 (don't ask me why)

if your having issues then read through this...

if you pump it up until you feel some resistance on the pump then you know its pressurised. if it still wont feed petrol through then the genny is blocked.
if you get no petrol flow then gently open the petrol filler cap. there should be a hiss as you release the pressure. this will tell you the seal on the pump is working and the seal on the petrol tank is ok. if there is no build up of pressure, and no hiss when you open the fuel cap then the pump washer needs oiling/changing.
you can buy a new genny [about a tenner] but always best to try and clean the old one, as youve nowt to lose!

if its not burning "clean", which means a good balance of air and fuel. the blue flame shows its working correctly.
to get it to run clean you need to have;
clean unleaded fuel.
pressure.
working genny.

to check the fuel is clean empty the petrol into a clear plastic [wide mouthed] bottle and look at it. i always fill my stove from fuel container into plastic bottle with a filter funnel. then into the stove.
i add a small amount of redex injector cleaner [from a car shop/halfords/etc] at the recommended dosage. do not overdo it as you will gum up the stove!
[the fuel should just change colour and have just a tinge of pink to it] use 5ml to 5 litres, but no more!

to ensure you have pressure check the pump washer is not split, and smear in some light oil. check the fuel cap seal looks ok. you should feel the pressure build up and it become difficult to pump. then you know its holing pressure.

the genny is a hollow tube that allows the fuel through. as it flows along it turns to vapour due to the heat of the stove and the pressure in the fuel tank. there is a thin wire inside the genny that runs back and forward as you turn on and off. this is to try and de-coke the inside of the genny to ensure a easy flow of fuel/vapour.
it is easy to clean an old genny by carefully extracting the wire and cleaning the gunge off with the edge of a knife. be careful not to dig it in and kink the wire! put the empty genny into a small pan with some boiling water and a spot of fairy liquid. this will clean out most of the residue.
thoroughly dry and re-assemble... sorted.
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