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In reply to Post #2520
Yeah, just the focus part, stacking needs to be done in post.
It won't be the first feature I've got excited about then never bothered to use again. I've got plenty of gear (photo and fishing) that falls into the same category.
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In reply to Post #2519
Is that focus bracketing or something for birds/action?
I was quite excited when olympus added that to my em5 via firmware update then never used it 
Was around 6 months after I'd bought it, then about 18months later they added the in camera stacking bit. that only works with a few select lenses where the bracketing works with any af lens. Do any other manufacturers offer the equivalent to the olympus live bulb and live composite modes? These seem really gimmicky but I find them really useful
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In reply to Post #2518
This might help, it's the same guy I linked to recently.
I just found out that the Z 6 has an automated focus shift feature. It does the focusing, not the software side. I might have to have a play with that later.
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So frustrating this wildlife photography, sat there last night with four of them up the pylon, three did fly off giving me a good opportunity, and with a bigger target I got a few decent frames 
And then with one left, sitting right at the top of the pylon the light took on a beautiful gold hue, and from the low sun the undersides of the pylon structure glowing, I was praying for the last one to fly towards me, picturing the epic shot it would give.
F****r didn't move till after sunset
This is the range I'm coping with, even with a few more megapickles the crops are too deep.this is where the 150-600 would come in to play, even with a. 71x speedbooster I'd be much closer. Left it too late now but maybe get one later in the year if the new olympus 100-400 doesn't excite me
Lazy bloody pidgeons
I could crop this a touch more but its just not close enough really
Breakfast of champions
One of the better flight shots, again needs too much cropping to be any good
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I don't often see them in the evening but there are three falcons sitting atop the pylon mocking me with there stillness
Mummy Bird isn't there for sure as she's much bigger, I can't tell if it's three youngsters or two with daddy 
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In reply to Post #2515
Funny enough I'm used to 2 eyeing it with anything moving, because of the lag. I find it easier to predict the moment I need to press the shutter like that.
I can't say I noticed a big size difference with the viewfinders on the em5ii vs 6dii I had for a bit, I just remember how gloomy it was with manual lenses stopped down or slow zooms at the long end. The em1ii viewfinder looks pretty crap compared to the one in the lumix g9 but seems to have less lag.
Will watch the video later
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In reply to Post #2514
I like the guy, he's done some good books and some of his explanations have been quite useful when I find mine aren't hitting home.
I haven't got on with 2-eyeing it (and I'm nicking that phrase!) unless it is on a full-frame DSLR or a rangefinder. The smaller viewfinder on M43 or APS just made it less easy to get used to. The other reason is the viewfinder lag on mirrorless (which they may well say doesn't really exist but I can see it) which affects me when I use the Z-series.
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In reply to Post #2512
Good video
One of the first things I realised with long focal lengths was keeping both eyes open (I called it 2-eying it!) made finding the subject quicker and easier.
Another mistake that I still make if I see something unusual is trying to take shots of subjects way too small in the frame!
It's easy to get carried away with a big tele thinking you can reach anything, then you look at the size of crop you need on the computer!
With Canon at single-point focus if the subject isn't twice the size of the little focus square it's not worth shooting!
I've shot stuff smaller than the AF square and wondered why the results weren't great. 
Of course the more you try to fill the frame, the harder it is to keep the subject IN the frame.
A loaf of stale bread down the local park will give plenty to practise on.
Head-on incoming ducks are good fun.
Or, as Art Morris says, "Point a camera at a gull and within 5 minutes it will do something interesting"
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In reply to Post #2510
Yeah the tripod wasn't working out for me, might have been better if I had a collar on the lens but rigging something up with a ball head, lbracket and macro rail worked OK for panning, but was crap for vertical adjustment.
I need to figure out how to change target size with one button press, I need the small box to get them at range but then when they take off I really struggle to keep that small target on them, not tried using the tracking yet.
I've seen a focus limiter in the camera menu, I'll try and figure that out
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In reply to Post #2508
This guy describes a few techniques but as Keebs said, it's all about practice.
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In reply to Post #2510
Another thing to look at is if you have a focus range limiter on your lens. Reducing the focussing range speeds up the acquisition considerably.
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In reply to Post #2508
To be honest I find tripod/gimbal too restrictive for flight shots.
Pre-focussing on something at the expected subject distance helps a lot.
Setting your AF to wider than single point ie Zone or Expansion or whatever yours calls it helps a lot with initial acquisition. This falls down with busy backgrounds though, as your camera will try to refocus if you lose tracking on the subject. You may have an in camera setting for how soon your camera tries to refocus after losing it. Go as slow as possible if so.
Practice a lot getting your AF point on the subject, I try to grab every gull and pigeon passing without firing the shutter, just exercising that hand to eye coordination.
It gets easier with time.
Focus acquisition is only half the story.
The bottom line is you are at the mercy of your cameras AF tracking speed and accuracy and that's why the likes of the 1D level costs money.
A lot of cameras just cannot effectively do flight/sports/fast action.
Good flight shots are not easy at all.
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In reply to Post #2508
In a situation where I can see them nesting I have a tripod with a gimbal head set up and focus the camera on the nest.
It's easier having everything set and ready. Yet even then it can be a pain but less so.
I visit a lot of airshows and if possible use tripod and gimbal there too as all day with a long lens it can get heavy at times.
I will add a couple of pics later of raptors in flight using this method.
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Does anyone have any tips and tricks for finding your target with long lenses? Where the em5 couldn't focus on moving targets it's not something I've much practice with, and I'm missing a lot of opportunities.
Specifically with the peregrines, once they take off from the pylon I have around 3-5seconds before I lose them behind the tree line, and they seem to have a sixth sense to take off when the camera is down
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In reply to Post #2506
Nice one pal
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NON Carp stuff