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In reply to Post #80
I was trying to decide if it was rust or clay from the pics. I bought some of the ACF50 after it was recommended on here for barrows, very impressed with it.
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In reply to Post #78
It was literally the morning after day 1 of use.
I ordered some Bilt Hamber Dynax off eBay for £19.99
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In reply to Post #78
You're dead right... But they do!
Literally all the 'payroll anglers' on the Korda YouTube channel etc, their barrows are exactly the same.
Pathetic, given the initial cost of the things.
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No way should those bearings rust that quickly
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In reply to Post #75
I remember now, here's why I didn't buy it, I done a quick AI query and found there are other products which might be better for my needs (I get wash the barrow when it gets REALLY caked up with mud)
It thinks I am talking about a wheel barrow, but I think it's info is still valid. I am going to see how much Lanoguard and XCP Rust Blocker costs...
(Option 4 is obviously not relevant in our scenario)
While **ACF-50** is excellent for penetrating hard-to-reach areas, it is a thin film that can wash off under heavy rain or friction. For a high-wear item like a metal barrow, you may prefer products that offer a more durable or "tacky" barrier.
Based on industry testing and user recommendations in 2026, here are the top-rated alternatives for protecting metal garden equipment:
### 1. XCP Rust Blocker (Clear Coat)
Widely considered the strongest competitor to ACF-50, **XCP Rust Blocker** is often rated higher in independent salt-spray and long-term corrosion tests.
* **Why it's recommended:** It provides a thicker, more resilient film than ACF-50. While the "Clear Coat" version is less sticky, the standard "Rust Blocker" leaves a soft, waxy film that is specifically designed to resist being washed away by water or mechanical abrasion.
* **Best for:** The outer frame and underside of your barrow where water and mud splash frequently.
### 2. Lanoguard
This is a lanolin-based (natural sheep's wool grease) product that has gained a massive following for its ease of use and eco-friendly profile.
* **Why it's recommended:** It is non-toxic and resists "jet washing" better than thin oils. It seeps into the metal and creates a hermetic seal that moisture cannot penetrate.
* **Best for:** Users who want a product that is safe to handle and provides a "set and forget" layer for the season.
### 3. Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 / UC
Bilt Hamber is a go-to brand for heavy-duty rust prevention, often winning "Best Buy" awards in automotive and industrial categories.
* **Why it's recommended:** Their **Dynax UC** (Underbody Cavity) is a high-performance clear wax. It is designed to withstand the harsh environments of vehicle undercarriages, making it overkill (in a good way) for a garden barrow.
* **Best for:** Long-term protection of the barrow's legs and axle, which are most prone to scraping and ground contact.
### 4. Hammerite "Direct to Rust"
If your barrow already has surface rust, a "conversion" approach might be better than a simple inhibitor.
* **Why it's recommended:** Unlike the sprays above, this is a dedicated metal paint. It features "Dual Tech" technology that provides a water-repellent barrier and a rust inhibitor in one.
* **Best for:** The inside of the barrow tub. Inhibitors like ACF-50 will rub off as you shovel material in and out; a hard-cured paint like Hammerite is the only way to protect the high-friction "work" surfaces.
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### Comparison at a Glance
| Product | Type | Durability | Best Use Case |
| :--- | :--- | :--- | :--- |
| **ACF-50** | Thin Oil | Moderate (Washes off) | Moving parts/bolts |
| **XCP Rust Blocker** | Waxy Film | **High** | Frame and legs |
| **Lanoguard** | Lanolin | High | Eco-friendly total cover |
| **Bilt Hamber UC** | Clear Wax | **Very High** | High-exposure areas |
| **Hammerite** | Paint/Enamel | Permanent (until chipped) | Inside the tub |
**Pro Tip:** For the best results on a barrow, use **Hammerite** or a similar metal paint for the "bucket" and **XCP Rust Blocker** or **Lanoguard** for the frame, bolts, and axle.
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In reply to Post #75
That's the stuff
Mine is a year older than yours and doesn't look like that... It isn't completely rust free though, there are obviously some small areas I missed, but on the whole it's still in great nick, despite being out most weeks in all sorts of weather.
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In reply to Post #74
I think it might have been you Ben, who mentioned/recommended the rust proofing.
I've not scoured the thread trying to find it's name...I remember I looked it up at the time but stupidly didn't buy :(
EDIT: Found it, post #18
"Treat the parts you care about with a can of ACF50. They rust and look tatty really quickly otherwise..."
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In reply to Post #73
Ooof that bearing is rusty already! Glad I put rust proofing on mine.
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In reply to Post #71
I'm on lunch, so will upload the pics I took here rather than send them via WhatsApp.
Rear wheels look like they come off very easily (I've never taken it apart since building it)
Behind the Front wheel, this was the bit I wasn't sure about. I seem to recall when building it that it wasn't just these 2 that hold it in place. I will try to dig out the instructions tonight and get the info shared.
Side of the Front wheel
It rusted on day 1
The nut closest is the one I had to crank real tight. The nut behind that has a 'stop' on the left of that plate which stop the brake from going past it when you take the brake off (and the spring pings the brake backwards). I think I mentioned on a previous post that the brake plate (left of the two in picture) skipped straight past the stopper. Tightening that rear nut has stopped that from happening. Not a huge problem, easily fixed and maybe the guy in the factory didn't have his Weetabix the day he assembled mine and couldn't tighten it tight enough 
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In reply to Post #71
You only need to lift on sharp corners in my experience. Sometimes I simply stop, lift barrow and take a step to the left/right, put barrow back down and then continue onwards.
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In reply to Post #70
Karl is I sent you a pm re size mate
Do you have to lift it to steer ?
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In reply to Post #69
My knowledge of electrics etc is zero. I only learn what I need to know to do a task and then soon forget it all straight after!
Now the ground is drying up I think the Trident will be a decent bit of kit. It's main flaw was being so heavy (partly my fault for taking too much kit) and going into soft mud / mole runs up to the axle across wet fields.
I keep meaning to do some kind of video of it. If there's anything in particular somebody wants to see I might do it and stick on here.
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In reply to Post #68
Yes mate that's exactly what I meant.
I went this route on my old power porter so much better
Ps. Just heard back from Korda while the acknowledged that lithium does work on there barrows they advise to stick with led
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When you say LiFo, do you mean LiFePO? (Not heard of LiFo before. Not trying to be pedantic, just wondered if it was a 'thing' and what benefit that 'flavour' has over others)
Yes, it's good that battery technology is advancing.
Comparing a barrow that gets left outside in the rain when fishing - to your mobile isn't really the best comparison. Most anglers I know try to keep the bait boats out or the rain where possible too. It's the battery size that's the worry I think...more chemicals in the bigger ones.
I will get shot of the SLA batteries at some point, but they are working at the moment so I don't need the added expense, spent enough on it as it is with all the luggage.
I done the SLA to LiFePO4 swap on the Nash. Much better now
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In reply to Post #64
Lipo I agree are dangerous
However
LiFo are a lot safer especially equipped with BMS
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