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In reply to Post #50
Jic it might be of interest there's a seller on Ebay who sells a spray that supposed to match most modern barrows. I bought one as my BCUK handles are black and my ocd is struggling with it  haven't done it yet though.
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In reply to Post #49
Thanks for all the ideas think l’ll try building the sides up with paint first see how that goes before anything else, l see carp porter sell small tins of the touch up paint £6.99 but they want £7 postage on top of that, sure l’ll find it else wear just with it been new thought l’d do a tidy job with same colour, it’s abit of a joke really how carp porter have made these handle and l know mines only the cheaper stealth barrow which suits my fishing as well as fitting in the car nicely but just imagine if the top of the range power porters are turned out like this.
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If I'm reading this correctly the problem seems to be side to side movement of the handles. Would it be possible to put a ratchet strap across the handles just behind the grips to tension them. It should work similar to the cross brace on some of the larger barrows.
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Is there only 1 thumbwheel for these handles?
As we're talking a very small amount of play maybe you could use a vice to pinch one side wall in slightly. Put a small C clamp on the side walls, tighten up, insert handle, then keep tightening the vice while moving the handle in and out until the play is reduced. Might have to take the foot off the clamp to create a smaller clamping area to pinch, and would have to do it in a couple of places. If aesthetics are a problem you could always pinch it on the inside edge only, using a block of wood to protect the outer edge. It shouldn't affect the box shape as you're only making minute indents.
I bought some of the BCUK handles for my trakker barrow and had the opposite problem. As they were black I used the scrape marks on the paint as tightness indicators and used a dremmel to grind them down in those areas, in some plaes it was only the thickness of the paint. The fit is really tight, just right, so maybe adding more layers of paint might work.
Edit, obv there would be other ways to do it, like adding a 2nd thumbscrew but you'd need to weld the nut on the frame. Could also pinch the frame with a through bolt going through handle and frame, could just be a longer thumbscrew with a nut on the end, would it work, who knows. I'm sure someone else must have modded a handle.
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In reply to Post #46
I had a look at my stealth barrow last night and its the same, tried some tape but it just made the handles difficult to get in and made no difference to the side to side movement. I still have the original porterlite handles and they were the same. Its like the frame is slightly wider side to side, but not top to bottom..it all measures up ok so no idea why there's more movement that way
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In reply to Post #45
Can't you put a bit of duct tape around it first to test if it solves the issue?
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In reply to Post #44
Think l’m going to try build it by keep giving it a layer of paint just the bit that goes in that you don’t see just try get it a tighter fit as it slides in properly take a good few coats but can’t see any other way, think it’s a bad design surely, never like this on my porter-lite that was a tight fit sliding the handle in.
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In reply to Post #43
Such replies are so lame. I guess I will wait for the mk2 version then. For you this doesn't solve the problem though, which is a shame.....
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In reply to Post #42
Hi l emailed carp-Porter and they asked if l could send a video to them of my stealth barrow and the movement in the handles when fully tighten up and this is the reply l received.
Thanks for sending that over. I've had a proper look, and the amount of movement you're seeing in the handles is normal for the current Stealth design. The newer no-loss thumb screw system works by pinching the inner tube from the inside rather than clamping the bracket externally like the older design.
Because the pressure is applied internally, it allows for a small amount of natural flex in the handle joint. What you're seeing in your video is within the expected range for this setup and doesn't indicate a fault or incorrect assembly.
The upside is that this design keeps the handles much more secure and prevents them from pulling out or becoming detached during use. The slight extra movement is simply a trade-off of the improved safety and retention system.
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In reply to Post #39
I have been thinking about this. Can't you use a washer between the inside walls (female part) of the frame and the male part of the handle that goes in? That way you fill the gap that there is which creates the play in the handle and still the screw can go through the frame and press against the pole of the handle?
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In reply to Post #38
I heavily greased every connection join and screw on my powerporter and apart from the odd dink after 10 years it was like one 6 months old when i sold it .Yes i occasionally got grease on me but its worth doing
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In reply to Post #38
Not a power porter but l got one of the stealth barrows and noticed the same problem with the handles feeling loose after tightening right up so just trying work out what l can do about this with getting a good deal online a while ago but doesn't feel stable when your pushing it along loaded up, l had the porterlite before this which l think was built better and weighed less granted they look better with some of the extras you can get but that's it.
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Today I had a good look at the new Carp Porter barrows on the Carp Den Bosch show. I think the design, the wheel, luggage and the updates are fantastic. I must say though, that I was disappointed with the thickness (or lack) of the bars and I already saw rust on some of the welded joints. Also, the handle bars felt a bit loose within the frame (yes the bolts were screwed in tightly).
I was all set to buy one, but now I am not so sure anymore..
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In reply to Post #35
I get what you mean. Sometimes when they try to spin they will spin wrong and potentially wedge against any racking/sides of the van.
A bit like moving your trolley to the side of an aisle in the supermarket...then trying to move backwards and the wheel swivels round and wedges against the bottom of the shelfing
I'm happy I went for the Trident rather than the Glider, got my second voyage with it tomorrow and it's a 350m walk from van to lake across farmland. Fingers crossed I'm still happy with it by Sunday when I have to do the 350m walk uphill across 3 fields to get back to van.
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| | | Belch | | Posts: 4367 |  | | MODERATOR | |
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In reply to Post #35
Ah understand what you mean now - assume the new Korda PPorters do this
Would have thought van access is on the front powered wheel anyway with a ramp . . .?
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