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In reply to Post #24
It's brilliant Roger. You should get it out there. People will buy that.
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In reply to Post #23
Thank you and massively appreciate the feedback - we only ever made prototypes as it’s all of our stuff it was very niche and anything decent was shipped to China for copying!
The idea was born years and years ago at one of the carp shows, I was chatting rigs with Gary Bayes on the Nash stand and he tied a rig up and pulled his knot tight with a hair band, I asked what he was doing - he looked at me and said ‘I can snap 15lb line all day’ this beds the knot in and tests it at a strength that is realistic! Took me years to put that into some kind of workable product.
I will try and get you one knocked up and you can keep that and when the NGT version comes out you can say yeah - but my spring is better and original ;0)
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In reply to Post #8
That's genius Roger. Bloody genius. Why on earth did you not release it? If you have, why have I never seen or heard of it before?
That is clever. It solves the massive problem of shock when anglers test lines/knots over a very short length (less than arms length).
In a carpworld full of bits of far east plastic all copying the hell out of each other, with so very little or no innovation whatsoever (except from a couple firms)... That is truly amazing. You need to promote that seriously. Because otherwise one of the known shiesters will have it ripped off instantly & sell a boat load.
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In reply to Post #13
Agree, Palomar is so strong if you get it right.
Unfortunately with thicker \ stiffer lines it can take a bit of effort to bed it down correctly.
You need the two bits of line going round the eye uniform. (side by side and not crossed over each other)
As you say, done wrong and it will break easily.
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In reply to Post #20
Most mere mortals only break their mainline when snagged and pull for a break, and some even manage to break their line when casting.
When I used to do rig checks it was amazing/scary how many were unable to tie a solid reliable knot in their mainline and test it BEFORE casting out 
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I use Technium in 15lb for the vast majority of my fishing and I honestly couldn't give a fig whether my knots survive a pull of 15lb. They only need to survive the maximum pressure I can apply with my rods, plus a little, which is nothing near 15lbs. I use 15lb line because of the abrasion resistance it offers, not because I'll be putting 15lbs pressure on anything.
If I were snagged up, I would rather my mainline to swivel knot gave way first before my line, so as to leave a bare minimum of tackle in the water or up a tree. Incedentedly I can't remember the last time I pulled for a break.
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Check out YouTube. Plenty of the Yankee bass anglers have got videos testing the best knots for different materials.
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Looks like the Palomar is the next step…Trilene,,,😁
Thanks for all the info 👍
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For about the past 30 years I have used a bucket of water, I fill it up to the exact weight of 15lb or whatever the BS is of my hooklength and when I have tied my rigs, I hold the loop with either 6" nail or a knot puller and very slowly try to lift the bucket, when its off the ground, the knot has passed.
I am not interested in messing about constantly topping up a bucket to find out what they break at, you don't need to know that, you just need to know that they will not break before what they are expected to break at. If you do have rigs that break well before you expect them to during testing, then its worth finding out at what BS they do break at as then you might discover you have bought a "Duff" spool of hooklength or its old etc, or your knots are not compatible with it etc or you can stop using that brand and make if their appears to be nothing wrong with it.
And my preffered knot is the Palomar
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In reply to Post #14
Yup that's what I use, but with one less turn.
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In reply to Post #9
Trilene knot...
The demonstration below is with braid so its a little different to how I do it with mono main line.
I make the double loop, and keep it open, six or seven turns up, and two or three back down, then tag goes through the double loop. Wet, and draw down to tighten.
You end up with a fantastic secure knot that you can actually see flexing as its not a strangulation knot.
You may have to vary the amount to turns up and down to get the knot right for your line diameter, but once you have it sussed it really is the most reliable knot for mono, a bit better than the polomar, and much better than the grinner.
I'd recommend that you have a practice with this and once you get it right you will then realise just how good this is.
LINKY POO™ https://www.wired2fish.com/fishing-knots/how-to-tie-the-trilene-knot
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As already mentioned try a Palomar knot.
What I like is if tied correctly it's near on possible to break, tied incorrectly and it will break fairly easily.
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| | | Belch | | Posts: 4419 |  | | MODERATOR | |
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In reply to Post #1
Agree with Ian - with mono def use a palomar for all direct connections to swivels etc - very easy to tie with practice . . .
Cannot remember the last time I used a blood knot other than with very thick dia fluro on chods / booms etc (in this instance even a two turn is solid). Redundant these days as prefer crimps for consistency
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In reply to Post #6
This is what I used with GTHD and it's not let me down yet. Even pulling for a break, is normally isn't the knot that goes. I've even had hooks straighten out before the palomar.
So easy to tie too 👍
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In reply to Post #6
Fox Zig hook link was one of those for me. I use grinners most of the time last decade or so but used to use a blood knot, mostly tucked.
The Palomar, I tried but could I consistently get it to bed properly, used to drive me nuts! Gave up in the end as I was throwing too much hooklink away.
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In reply to Post #7
Is that the twice through the eye three and a half turn blood knot Dave?
If so I've been using it, with a slight difference, for many years and I've never had one fail.
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I find the whole thing about testing knots a bit more harm than good.
I would back myself to break 12” of 40 mono all day if my life depended on it. The steady pull I get but you risk burning and damaging the line even if you bed in carefully.as stated below you need to use a realistic length of main line which then makes the task even harder, a fish will never have shorter length than about 30 foot, but as it’s suspended by water you could tow a cow with most 15lb lines.
You then talk snags and stuff and I would far rather my knot went than midway between me and the fish. Tough lines for bars etc I get but this isn’t about knot strength.
I tear the rs out of everything so many years ago had the below prototypes made as proper pulley tools, it ihas a strong compression sprint in it and you can mark (paint) force on the side of the spring - when that appears out the sleeve - job done. If nowhere near the hook I always leave about 4mm tag - I don’t blob as I believe (not fact) this makes the end of mono brittle and likely to shatter.
Seeing as we (ct) designed this ages ago - I assume someone will Nick it and have copies on the shelves this spring (pun intended)
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Trilene knot 
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In reply to Post #1
Some lines really don't like grinner knots. Try swapping to a Palomar
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In reply to Post #4
Thanks, will have a look 👍
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In reply to Post #3
Have a look at matt collins video on knot testing. Try using a longer kength of line and lifting a bucket of water, adding more water until the line breaks, then weigh bucket to get the b.s.
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In reply to Post #2
Yep. Wetting and teasing it down rather than pulling up. When I’ve got the knot down near the swivel I start teasing the tag back a bit then pulling hand/ body force tight.
Not measuring pull strength with anything as I say using a lighter body and a puller on the swivel.
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In reply to Post #1
Are you bedding the knot down properly after wetting it? Have you measured how much pull you are getting before it snaps. Is it snapping at the knot?
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So just back in the game after a break and chosen Gardner GT HD 15lb to re-spool with.
Watched a couple of YouTubes re knot strength so tied a grinner to a swivel and then wound the loose end on a lighter down to about 6 “ and pulled steadily.
Tried it with two swivels also.
Anyway, the line snapped on every pull. Got some Touchdown at 20lb out from a tin from 2022 and it was a bit better but still broke although needed a bit more force which I sort of expected.
Is this the right way to test each knot or should I just cinch down. Never worried about it before but did have some lost fish but sure I’m tying the grinner correctly.
Does everyone exert pressure on the knots between the swivel and hook before casting out?
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