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In reply to Post #80
I was trying to decide if it was rust or clay from the pics. I bought some of the ACF50 after it was recommended on here for barrows, very impressed with it.
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In reply to Post #78
It was literally the morning after day 1 of use.
I ordered some Bilt Hamber Dynax off eBay for £19.99
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In reply to Post #78
You're dead right... But they do!
Literally all the 'payroll anglers' on the Korda YouTube channel etc, their barrows are exactly the same.
Pathetic, given the initial cost of the things.
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No way should those bearings rust that quickly
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In reply to Post #75
I remember now, here's why I didn't buy it, I done a quick AI query and found there are other products which might be better for my needs (I get wash the barrow when it gets REALLY caked up with mud)
It thinks I am talking about a wheel barrow, but I think it's info is still valid. I am going to see how much Lanoguard and XCP Rust Blocker costs...
(Option 4 is obviously not relevant in our scenario)
While **ACF-50** is excellent for penetrating hard-to-reach areas, it is a thin film that can wash off under heavy rain or friction. For a high-wear item like a metal barrow, you may prefer products that offer a more durable or "tacky" barrier.
Based on industry testing and user recommendations in 2026, here are the top-rated alternatives for protecting metal garden equipment:
### 1. XCP Rust Blocker (Clear Coat)
Widely considered the strongest competitor to ACF-50, **XCP Rust Blocker** is often rated higher in independent salt-spray and long-term corrosion tests.
* **Why it's recommended:** It provides a thicker, more resilient film than ACF-50. While the "Clear Coat" version is less sticky, the standard "Rust Blocker" leaves a soft, waxy film that is specifically designed to resist being washed away by water or mechanical abrasion.
* **Best for:** The outer frame and underside of your barrow where water and mud splash frequently.
### 2. Lanoguard
This is a lanolin-based (natural sheep's wool grease) product that has gained a massive following for its ease of use and eco-friendly profile.
* **Why it's recommended:** It is non-toxic and resists "jet washing" better than thin oils. It seeps into the metal and creates a hermetic seal that moisture cannot penetrate.
* **Best for:** Users who want a product that is safe to handle and provides a "set and forget" layer for the season.
### 3. Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 / UC
Bilt Hamber is a go-to brand for heavy-duty rust prevention, often winning "Best Buy" awards in automotive and industrial categories.
* **Why it's recommended:** Their **Dynax UC** (Underbody Cavity) is a high-performance clear wax. It is designed to withstand the harsh environments of vehicle undercarriages, making it overkill (in a good way) for a garden barrow.
* **Best for:** Long-term protection of the barrow's legs and axle, which are most prone to scraping and ground contact.
### 4. Hammerite "Direct to Rust"
If your barrow already has surface rust, a "conversion" approach might be better than a simple inhibitor.
* **Why it's recommended:** Unlike the sprays above, this is a dedicated metal paint. It features "Dual Tech" technology that provides a water-repellent barrier and a rust inhibitor in one.
* **Best for:** The inside of the barrow tub. Inhibitors like ACF-50 will rub off as you shovel material in and out; a hard-cured paint like Hammerite is the only way to protect the high-friction "work" surfaces.
---
### Comparison at a Glance
| Product | Type | Durability | Best Use Case |
| :--- | :--- | :--- | :--- |
| **ACF-50** | Thin Oil | Moderate (Washes off) | Moving parts/bolts |
| **XCP Rust Blocker** | Waxy Film | **High** | Frame and legs |
| **Lanoguard** | Lanolin | High | Eco-friendly total cover |
| **Bilt Hamber UC** | Clear Wax | **Very High** | High-exposure areas |
| **Hammerite** | Paint/Enamel | Permanent (until chipped) | Inside the tub |
**Pro Tip:** For the best results on a barrow, use **Hammerite** or a similar metal paint for the "bucket" and **XCP Rust Blocker** or **Lanoguard** for the frame, bolts, and axle.
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In reply to Post #75
That's the stuff
Mine is a year older than yours and doesn't look like that... It isn't completely rust free though, there are obviously some small areas I missed, but on the whole it's still in great nick, despite being out most weeks in all sorts of weather.
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In reply to Post #74
I think it might have been you Ben, who mentioned/recommended the rust proofing.
I've not scoured the thread trying to find it's name...I remember I looked it up at the time but stupidly didn't buy :(
EDIT: Found it, post #18
"Treat the parts you care about with a can of ACF50. They rust and look tatty really quickly otherwise..."
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In reply to Post #73
Ooof that bearing is rusty already! Glad I put rust proofing on mine.
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In reply to Post #71
I'm on lunch, so will upload the pics I took here rather than send them via WhatsApp.
Rear wheels look like they come off very easily (I've never taken it apart since building it)
Behind the Front wheel, this was the bit I wasn't sure about. I seem to recall when building it that it wasn't just these 2 that hold it in place. I will try to dig out the instructions tonight and get the info shared.
Side of the Front wheel
It rusted on day 1
The nut closest is the one I had to crank real tight. The nut behind that has a 'stop' on the left of that plate which stop the brake from going past it when you take the brake off (and the spring pings the brake backwards). I think I mentioned on a previous post that the brake plate (left of the two in picture) skipped straight past the stopper. Tightening that rear nut has stopped that from happening. Not a huge problem, easily fixed and maybe the guy in the factory didn't have his Weetabix the day he assembled mine and couldn't tighten it tight enough 
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In reply to Post #71
You only need to lift on sharp corners in my experience. Sometimes I simply stop, lift barrow and take a step to the left/right, put barrow back down and then continue onwards.
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In reply to Post #70
Karl is I sent you a pm re size mate
Do you have to lift it to steer ?
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In reply to Post #69
My knowledge of electrics etc is zero. I only learn what I need to know to do a task and then soon forget it all straight after!
Now the ground is drying up I think the Trident will be a decent bit of kit. It's main flaw was being so heavy (partly my fault for taking too much kit) and going into soft mud / mole runs up to the axle across wet fields.
I keep meaning to do some kind of video of it. If there's anything in particular somebody wants to see I might do it and stick on here.
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In reply to Post #68
Yes mate that's exactly what I meant.
I went this route on my old power porter so much better
Ps. Just heard back from Korda while the acknowledged that lithium does work on there barrows they advise to stick with led
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When you say LiFo, do you mean LiFePO? (Not heard of LiFo before. Not trying to be pedantic, just wondered if it was a 'thing' and what benefit that 'flavour' has over others)
Yes, it's good that battery technology is advancing.
Comparing a barrow that gets left outside in the rain when fishing - to your mobile isn't really the best comparison. Most anglers I know try to keep the bait boats out or the rain where possible too. It's the battery size that's the worry I think...more chemicals in the bigger ones.
I will get shot of the SLA batteries at some point, but they are working at the moment so I don't need the added expense, spent enough on it as it is with all the luggage.
I done the SLA to LiFePO4 swap on the Nash. Much better now
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In reply to Post #64
Lipo I agree are dangerous
However
LiFo are a lot safer especially equipped with BMS
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In reply to Post #62
I swapped mine for a aftermarket battery pack the same week the barrow was delivered, it's made a big difference both in weight saving and additional grunt/torque that doesn't fade away like a SLA battery does when under load.
Obviously there have been safety concerns in the past, but these days it's the same battery technology you're already carrying on your person. Be it a mobile phone, a bait boat, charger block etc etc.
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I was in the US a year ago (the Bay Area) a Tesla caught fire in the fast lane of the highway after a crash,
It melted the barrier and made a real mess of the road surface the intensity of the fire was something else.
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In reply to Post #62
Trident battery is 13kg.
I would imagine safety is the main reason (and cost)
As most will know, LiPo batteries aren't nice when they decide to go wrong.
I wouldn't want something like this going off in the van on the way to/from fishing...or in whatever building you store the barrow battery.
LINKY POOâ„¢ https://youtube.com/shorts/XxwQgKn0uUE?si=kOsjSGZ_XU3moMg8
In reply to your question earlier Colors: I would still buy the Carp-Porter Trident, yes.
I've kept the Nash as I intend to use that one for overnighters at the rivers where I won't be taking the kitchen sink with me.
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In reply to Post #61
Cheers mate Korda would no answer the question
Why on earth they supply them with big heavy lead batteries beggars belief
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In reply to Post #60
Yes, albeit unofficially.
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Can you fit lithium batteries on the new porters ?
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In reply to Post #58
How does the barrow compare to your old Nash one? Would uou still buy the porter now or go for something else V
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In reply to Post #57
Yeah, the Trident steers ok, considering the fat rear wheels. Basically as you're approaching the corner you start turning sooner than needed and do a long slow arch. If it's a sharp corner you'll need to slow down, probably, and lift the handles to get the rear wheels up in the air (it can be heavy doing it this way)
I did look at the Glider at the show, but didn't like the small wheels. They'd be fine on tarmac but I wouldn't want to use them on places I fish. Also, the Glider is quite a bit longer than the Trident and it wouldn't fit in my van anyhow (with handles on).
If I take the 17l bucket out of the bucket holder on the front, and fold it up flat...I can JUST fit the Trident in the rear of my LWB Transporter. The tailgate closes with an inch or so to spare.
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In reply to Post #56
Thanks Karlos, I will also be using it on non made up paths i.e muddy. I am also considering the Glider but I'm a bit concerned about the rear shopping trolley wheels getting caked in mud and not moving. Does the Trident steer ok
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In reply to Post #55
I like it, but it's not perfect.
This winter at my syndicate one bank is a grass slope. Very soft with all the rain we've had.
The barrow struggled, but I think all barrows would, the wheel would sink in up to the axle and reverse wouldn't get it out I had to give it the big one while reversing to back it up and choose a line line of attack.
The fact the barrow weighs a ton and I take too much kit doesn't help. The batteries alone were 13kg (if memory serves me right) and with 3 chunky wheels and a full frame it's heavy.
There's been rust around the front wheel since it's first trip out. Somebody mentioned this (probably in this thread) and suggested a product I could use. I need to get my finger out and get on and do that.
The speed controller on mine has gone faulty, I need to send the video to Carp-Porter and see what they think. Basically when you twist the dial around to 100% it stops. The dial works fine up until about 80% of the way around.
I should add, this used to work perfectly. It's still usable...I am not sure if I'm getting 100% power when the dial is on 80% or not (sounds daft, but the power isn't analog....I found that as you turned the dial it would suddenly have more ummpfff at certain points)
I'm not fond of the motor being outside the wheel. Pushing through that mud meant the motor/cables got caked and even the box section steel that attaches the wheel to the barrow filled with mud. Big solid rectangular 'turd' would plop out when I got the barrow home and gently jet washed it (it was THAT muddy each time...the mud alone must have added 10 to 20kg to the barrow weight)
The bucket holder that you can fit onto the front. Mine kept slipping. I got around it by drilling my own holes in the internal frame (8mm I think?) so that when I screwed the nuts in, instead of pushing against the frame they go into that hole and the frame rests on the bolt. It's a bit of a 'violent' approach to solving the problem, but it's worked perfectly and the bucket holder hasn't slipped since (when it slipped, the hinge would go over the lower put of the frame and scratch paint off)
That all sounds a bit negative, but the work I've made it does this winter is problem more extreme than most people would encounter. On normally grass, or nice firm paths it chugs along lovely.
It doesn't rattle and squeak much while bouncing around in the back on the van en route to the lake (which is a bonus as my other barrows are a lot squeakier!)
Oh yeah, the brake. I don't really rate it. It doesn't really grip the wheel (type) very well. Also, mine had an issue where a bolt wasn't done up tight enough which enabled the brake (when off) to pass by the stopping point. Maybe I'll do a little video to explain that. Once again I was able to fix this, I just wound the nut up tighter to decrease the amount of left/right play that the brake had.
I love the large side bags, I can keep stuff in there that I rarely need...but at least I have it with me (spare marker floats/spods etc etc...also some little storm poles that I use for the spodding station...so I always have them to hand rather than having to go back to the van for them
If you have any specific questions, fire away, I feel I have waffled too much there...
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In reply to Post #37
Hi Karlos, How are you getting on with the Trident, now you've had a few months of use.
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In reply to Post #52
My solar power barrow has handle movement, quite annoying but I hang something off the bar , which probably doesn't help long term but works in the moment
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My mk7 Powerporter I never tighten the front wheel on or the handles. I have bumped the front wheel out of the stays a couple of times. And had to unload the barrow and load again. But the cables and connectors have been spot on. I did have a tack weld go on the rear stay which was replaced under warranty. Apart from the tack welds there pretty rugged.
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In reply to Post #50
The most expensive carp porters have this issue too. And you you what, I noticed it too with the most expensive Solar barrow too. But that uses a different style of locking nut, so maybe that wasn't tightened properly.
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In reply to Post #50
Jic it might be of interest there's a seller on Ebay who sells a spray that supposed to match most modern barrows. I bought one as my BCUK handles are black and my ocd is struggling with it  haven't done it yet though.
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In reply to Post #49
Thanks for all the ideas think l'll try building the sides up with paint first see how that goes before anything else, l see carp porter sell small tins of the touch up paint £6.99 but they want £7 postage on top of that, sure l'll find it else wear just with it been new thought l'd do a tidy job with same colour, it's abit of a joke really how carp porter have made these handle and l know mines only the cheaper stealth barrow which suits my fishing as well as fitting in the car nicely but just imagine if the top of the range power porters are turned out like this.
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If I'm reading this correctly the problem seems to be side to side movement of the handles. Would it be possible to put a ratchet strap across the handles just behind the grips to tension them. It should work similar to the cross brace on some of the larger barrows.
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Is there only 1 thumbwheel for these handles?
As we're talking a very small amount of play maybe you could use a vice to pinch one side wall in slightly. Put a small C clamp on the side walls, tighten up, insert handle, then keep tightening the vice while moving the handle in and out until the play is reduced. Might have to take the foot off the clamp to create a smaller clamping area to pinch, and would have to do it in a couple of places. If aesthetics are a problem you could always pinch it on the inside edge only, using a block of wood to protect the outer edge. It shouldn't affect the box shape as you're only making minute indents.
I bought some of the BCUK handles for my trakker barrow and had the opposite problem. As they were black I used the scrape marks on the paint as tightness indicators and used a dremmel to grind them down in those areas, in some plaes it was only the thickness of the paint. The fit is really tight, just right, so maybe adding more layers of paint might work.
Edit, obv there would be other ways to do it, like adding a 2nd thumbscrew but you'd need to weld the nut on the frame. Could also pinch the frame with a through bolt going through handle and frame, could just be a longer thumbscrew with a nut on the end, would it work, who knows. I'm sure someone else must have modded a handle.
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In reply to Post #46
I had a look at my stealth barrow last night and its the same, tried some tape but it just made the handles difficult to get in and made no difference to the side to side movement. I still have the original porterlite handles and they were the same. Its like the frame is slightly wider side to side, but not top to bottom..it all measures up ok so no idea why there's more movement that way
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In reply to Post #45
Can't you put a bit of duct tape around it first to test if it solves the issue?
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In reply to Post #44
Think l'm going to try build it by keep giving it a layer of paint just the bit that goes in that you don't see just try get it a tighter fit as it slides in properly take a good few coats but can't see any other way, think it's a bad design surely, never like this on my porter-lite that was a tight fit sliding the handle in.
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In reply to Post #43
Such replies are so lame. I guess I will wait for the mk2 version then. For you this doesn't solve the problem though, which is a shame.....
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In reply to Post #42
Hi l emailed carp-Porter and they asked if l could send a video to them of my stealth barrow and the movement in the handles when fully tighten up and this is the reply l received.
Thanks for sending that over. I've had a proper look, and the amount of movement you're seeing in the handles is normal for the current Stealth design. The newer no-loss thumb screw system works by pinching the inner tube from the inside rather than clamping the bracket externally like the older design.
Because the pressure is applied internally, it allows for a small amount of natural flex in the handle joint. What you're seeing in your video is within the expected range for this setup and doesn't indicate a fault or incorrect assembly.
The upside is that this design keeps the handles much more secure and prevents them from pulling out or becoming detached during use. The slight extra movement is simply a trade-off of the improved safety and retention system.
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In reply to Post #39
I have been thinking about this. Can't you use a washer between the inside walls (female part) of the frame and the male part of the handle that goes in? That way you fill the gap that there is which creates the play in the handle and still the screw can go through the frame and press against the pole of the handle?
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In reply to Post #38
I heavily greased every connection join and screw on my powerporter and apart from the odd dink after 10 years it was like one 6 months old when i sold it .Yes i occasionally got grease on me but its worth doing
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In reply to Post #38
Not a power porter but l got one of the stealth barrows and noticed the same problem with the handles feeling loose after tightening right up so just trying work out what l can do about this with getting a good deal online a while ago but doesn't feel stable when your pushing it along loaded up, l had the porterlite before this which l think was built better and weighed less granted they look better with some of the extras you can get but that's it.
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Today I had a good look at the new Carp Porter barrows on the Carp Den Bosch show. I think the design, the wheel, luggage and the updates are fantastic. I must say though, that I was disappointed with the thickness (or lack) of the bars and I already saw rust on some of the welded joints. Also, the handle bars felt a bit loose within the frame (yes the bolts were screwed in tightly).
I was all set to buy one, but now I am not so sure anymore..
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In reply to Post #35
I get what you mean. Sometimes when they try to spin they will spin wrong and potentially wedge against any racking/sides of the van.
A bit like moving your trolley to the side of an aisle in the supermarket...then trying to move backwards and the wheel swivels round and wedges against the bottom of the shelfing
I'm happy I went for the Trident rather than the Glider, got my second voyage with it tomorrow and it's a 350m walk from van to lake across farmland. Fingers crossed I'm still happy with it by Sunday when I have to do the 350m walk uphill across 3 fields to get back to van.
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| | | Belch | | Posts: 4478 |  | | MODERATOR | |
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In reply to Post #35
Ah understand what you mean now - assume the new Korda PPorters do this
Would have thought van access is on the front powered wheel anyway with a ramp . . .?
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| | | BRB | | Posts: 1410 |  | |
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In reply to Post #34
But you can't move the barrow with the brakes on. What I'm saying is when you drive it into the van the wheels are in one orientation, when you want to drive it out the want to spin 180 degrees. Locking pins would allow it to go straight in then straight out.
Just my experience.
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| | | Belch | | Posts: 4478 | | | MODERATOR | |
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In reply to Post #33
Stops em rotating tho . . .!
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| | | BRB | | Posts: 1410 | | |
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In reply to Post #32
Brakes yes, locking pins no.
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| | | Belch | | Posts: 4478 | | | MODERATOR | |
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In reply to Post #30
All Barrow Buddies wheel kits do have brakes / wheel locks - one on each wheel?
As (an assumed) one man band he only does batches of 50x so you do need to get in quick - I was one of the first few to get on the list and my 'fixed width' kit has been tried and tested for almost a year now - they are a game changer.
I did a day sesh with my unpowered un swivel wheeled Porterlite the other day - it was depressing 
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If I was minded to order a set of the new Carp Porter ones, for my MK8
Would I want the standard handle or the new "ergonomic" ones, as fitted to their "glider" model?
Anyone got any thoughts, on the practicality?
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| | | BRB | | Posts: 1410 | | |
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In reply to Post #29
The Barrow Buddies didnt work for me. I found the wheels spinning around whilst getting it in and out of the van a pain. For me they needed some sort of locking mechanism.
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| | | Boo | | Posts: 8839 |  | |
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I've had a barrow buddies one delivered today (will check it out when I get home) for my MK7 power porter
There's a long waiting list for them as they are made to order. I ordered mine on the 30th May so expect a fair wait if you order one
I went for the new GLS Pro Adjustable version which is obviously adjustable on the widths of the wheels and come with puncture proof tyres. £195 delivered which I didn't think was too bad. The fixed width version is £165 delivered. Payment is taken when it's ready to be posted
If you are interested in buying one/going on the list then just text the number on his pages and he will put you on the list and then get back in touch when it's your turn for one to be built to make sure you still want it before he orders the materials
Apart from the long wait it's been pretty straight forward to deal with barrow buddies
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In reply to Post #27
I like the idea of the barrow buddies one, I just wish they (he?) would sort out a decent web shop. As I've never fancied ordering ''from a bloke off Facebook'
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In reply to Post #26
That's what I thought, I'll wait for the barrow buddies and save £60
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In reply to Post #25
jesus that's not cheap is it
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In reply to Post #23
800mm from outside of left to outside of right tyres.
It's narrower than my Nash barrow as the wheels are vertical on the Trident, not splayed.
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In reply to Post #14
Could you please measure the width of the rear wheel base please
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In reply to Post #21
That's good to know thanks, will order a can of the spray now 👍
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In reply to Post #20
Have a look at the Korda videos on their YouTube channel. All their barrows are rusty predominantly around the motor, and exposed fixings.
I treated my MK8 the day I got it out the box, and 10 months later (ISH) it's still good.
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Thanks, I'll get some as it's reasonably priced.
When I spoke to Korda at that show they said the box section had been sprayed (internally) and so it should be corrosion resistant. I doubt they done that with previous models.
My main concern (probably) is the motor being external to the wheel, I will be conscious of deep mud this winter. My other power barrow (Nash one) has the motor internal to the wheel and so no cables to snag etc
But I'm sure the Trident will be good. I hope it is...not long until I get to try it out (24hrs and I'll be fishing)
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In reply to Post #18
I had really hoped the quality with these was better than they were with the original Carp Porters...
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In reply to Post #17
Treat the parts you care about with a can of ACF50. They rust and look tatty really quickly otherwise...
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In reply to Post #16
I'm fortunate enough to have the van specifically for fishing so I can whack the barrow straight in, no need to collapse it.
It did take a while to build it the other evening, but that was things you normally wouldn't need to do like stick the rear wheels on their axles etc
That said,I still think it would take quite a while to dismantle, and some of the bits are heavy and you wouldn't want to accidentally bang them against your car during ‘take down'
I'm planning on fishing at the syndicate this weekend, so weather permitting I will try and get some video done with my brother. I'd be interested to know myself
As with all barrows, some things are time consuming (like wrapping the Velcro around a frame to secure a bag) and this is where the time could stack up. More luggage = more delays before you set off from the car park
I did like the bank stick bag. It has nice strong looking loops on its top left/right corners and so it can be very quickly hooked onto the front or back bars, and face either way to ensure it remains accessible.
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are any of these easy to collapse to put away folded down in a car
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In reply to Post #14
Congrats Karlos - some great pics ill be keen to hear the long term reviews
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Just to get back on topic...new Carp Porter.
I bought the Trident after looking at them at the Winter show. It was going to be that or the Glider. The Glider was a bit longer though and I was pretty sure it wouldn't fit in the back of my van (despite being LWB, I have a rear triple seat - which is the issue here)
The delivery came in 2 parts, apparently DHL do this quite a bit.
Evening #1 : 5 boxes arrived
I thought the biggest box didn't look quite big enough but wondered if the frame was a self assembly job from lots of pieces. Having opened that box I realised the frame was missing.
Evening #2 : The frame arrives
Box 1 : Batteries (in Bag)
Box 2 : Charger
Box 3 : Front Wheel
Box 4 : Rear Wheels
Box 5 : Drop in bag (photo in the 5 box photo above)
Instruction manual which I never read, doesn't cover the powered wheel bit anyhow!
Pamphlets that came in the first 5 boxes, also not to be read if you are male
Couple of shots with some gear on for illustration purposes, I have since added the handlebar bag and some other 'soft furnishings' to it. I can do more photos if anyone wants to see/know specifics
There's possibly JUST enough room for me to put the SMALL front bag onto it and still have the tailgate close, fingers crossed as I will be buying that for myself for another early Xmas present
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In reply to Post #3
Yes, the Shimano barrow is a good barrow. Like you say, it has the front which you can store your bedchair on, and the front then lifts off separate from the rest of the barrow chassis.
I bought one of these barrows off a forum member last year as I decided to buy a complete Shimano Trench gear setup. The barrow was the final missing piece.
I used the barrow a couple of times at my syndicate but stopped using it because it is 2 wheeled and they run VERY close to the edge of a bridge/walkway that I need to cross.
When used on a normal path the barrow was very nice, 2 wheels at the front so no need to worry about left/right wobble and tipping over. Pushing was quite hard going up hill but perfectly doable, once you got on the flat it become a doddle.
The frame is lightweight aluminium as well which helped.
I don't think you can easily find these barrows around anymore, took me ages to find one that wasn't "collect from the ass-end of nowhere"
Some of the Trench bits from this years eBay hunting
Not a great shot of the barrow, but the centre of gravity is lovely and low, the kit sits inside the frame. With that and the double wheels the barrow never felt like it was going to topple over
You can see where Korda got the idea of the clip on straps to hold the weigh sling/nets etc to the side/underneath the barrow so the water doesn't drip over your dry gear
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Has anyone seen these in the shops yet (are they in the shops already)? I think they look perfect for what I am looking for and much better than what is available. For instance the bar to hold your holdall is a much better design. I am really curious if the welds and thickness of the metal is better with this revamped carp porter range.
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In reply to Post #8
Thanks. 
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In reply to Post #9
You're absolutely correct. The design is completely flawed.
The centre of gravity is way too high and above the wheel.
If you look at a wheel barrow the centre of gravity is behind the wheel and lower than the top of the wheel.
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ive always thought the Carp Porter design is flawed when it comes to taking the kitchen sink.
Once you get a bedchair, sleeping bag and cradle loaded, it leaves little room without packing higher and higher (and therefore more unstable).
I decided long ago that I would rather do 2 trips with less stuff and ditch the bulk, weight and the extra hassle of a power barrow!
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| | | Cam | | Posts: 6727 |  | | MODERATOR | |
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In reply to Post #5
Picture resized
I think we're getting somewhere with this idea. 1
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Korda have already done it...
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This message has been suppressed by a moderator.
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In reply to Post #2
there's very little innovation from most manufacturers nowadays
I'm going to hesitate a guess that it's because most are owned by 'groups' or 'investment firms'. It's no coincedence that Solars Sofa chair is very similar to others launched since, probably same production line, different labels, and savings on bulk manufacture.
As an example, we had bivvy's in the 90's that were 5kg, now they're 15kg's.
Yes there were but imo you can't really compare them. I had a Fox Evo for over a decade, a great lightweight bivvy, but the original Frontier was far more stable, totally different build qualities, and you pay for it in weight.
What's next, are they going to have a ride on barrow next?
I really hope so I don't see the need for the motor on the wheel of the barrow. It should be on a platform you can stand on with some rigid/flexi link to the barrow. The rigid link should be detachable and turn into handle bars so you can use the platform independently as a segway type foot board to get round the lake, even put gps on it so it can take beers round the lake to your mate...hold on...never mind..he'll have a bait boat for that
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In reply to Post #2
I believe it was shimano that released a barrow designed to have a bedchair upright on the front of it. That was something a bit new and different, but i assume didnt take off as i dont think they was on the market that long.
Users need to want the changes for it to be worthwhile for the manufacturers to make them.
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In reply to Post #1
I applaud the fact these barrows help the less able bodied but in my opinion there's very little innovation from most manufacturers nowadays. They just change the colour of something, make it 10kg's heavier and say it's the greatest thing since the wheel was invented.
Basically it's lazy design and putting short term profit before innovation.
Most sports have embraced concepts such as ‘ultralight', whereas carp angling is actually going backwards. As an example, we had bivvy's in the 90's that were 5kg, now they're 15kg's.
If you don't believe me, weigh your rod bag, rucksack and bedchair, without bait, food or water and see how crazy heavy it is.
Where's the innovation in cutting weight so you don't need a power barrow, or if you do need one, you don't need 4 batteries to get to your swim?
What's next, are they going to have a ride on barrow next? 
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Im a big fan of a power barrow having owned loads over the years both prestige and more recently Nash and Ive been tracking the solar for a while awaiting the new evoloution of Power porter from Korda which has been revealed this week
Have to say my initial thoughts are there is nothing new on the new range and they are stealing ideas from other innovators (Revolving rear wheelsas an example) Im amazed they still have the battery on the side and that theyve not gone Lipo
But the price for them ££££££ is mental in my mind - have I missed something here???
Still seems to be a product that is a game changer for most anglers but still one that even after all theese years there isnt a clear market leader
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