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In reply to Post #33
No Dave, my rigs are a simple knotless knot mono rig tied out of either 12lb Amnesia or 15lb mono.
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In reply to Post #35
I just think the hook imbeds itself in different positions when there is no need to move off the spot on tightly baited areas. I see the same on runs waters when using a large amount of mixers in a tight area. No different in my eyes, and probably why we get done on the top so often. I believe that fish are certainly easier to catch on a single bit of crust than a mixer purely because it moves away and tightens up to the controller. No different whatsoever to why so many are caught on singles and chods over a large spread.
A static fish that does not move away from the baited area will be harder to catch. We hear it so often, especially stories where they have seen the biggun they want to catch so much, just flare its gills and blow the hookbait straight out without moving.
These korda vids show them getting done time and time again. It's not because the rig is awful, it's simply because there is a manufactured baiting situation in place.
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In reply to Post #35
Would have likely been using a bait boat for these so 1 small dump of bait
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In reply to Post #30
"the way carp feed will have a massive impact"
I agree & also think that tight spreads of bait in close proximity to the hookbait will increase the chances of getting a bad hold.
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In reply to Post #31
It was using Jason Haywood Curve hooks, on a sort of Slip D type rig and wafters ( Mike Holly rig on the ESP channel )
Prior to that was using bank tackle wide gape hooks and just don't remember losing as many.
But like I said it's a hard low ish stock lake so a bit hard to quantify losses as your not catching many fish and not like I was writing down the losses / hook pulls etc
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In reply to Post #32
Are you using a hook kicker, shrink or sbf type to create a curved? If so, then that will sort it.
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In reply to Post #31
Conversely I fish almost exclusively with straight point, straight shank hooks and rarely suffer from 'hook pulls'.
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Years ago i used to drop plenty of fish on my drennan super specialist in 6 and 4.
Over sharp certainly wasn't the problem...
A straight pointed hook with a straight shank did little to aid the hook point to penetrate because the angle of pull wasn't in line with the hook point.
During the fight the hook would flex slightly and open a fraction and allow the fish to drop off.
I landed a few fish that had little tear/cuts around where the hook had finally penetrated.
This indicates the hook was skidding along before finally getting a grip and penetrating, or the fish being dropped.
I sorted this by putting a slow bend into the shank, basically modifying the hook into a curved shank, with the point much more inline with the eye.
I now only use a curved shank or beaked point hook. I do hand sharpen when needed and rarely drop a fish.
I have to wonder if the people who are dropping fish on hand sharpened hooks are using straight points with straight shanks...
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I think hook patterns and the way carp feed will have a massive impact. Fish that feed in silt will feed/filter in a different way to carp that feed and move between baits on gravel and clay. I've had many hook pulls on a clay bottomed venue over tight spreads of bait, too many to ignore. One night losing six fish to hook pulls on a Cryogen pattern that i'd not had issues with on other venues. Certain patterns just suit beds of particle, others suit snowman rigs with freebies over a wider area.
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Ive used sharpened hooks for over 30 years by either jason haywood or nowdays the kamakuru by korda and can honestly say in my oppinion it does not have any part in hookpulls. Having never sharpened a hook myself i have no idea if the way a hook is sharpened has any bearing on a hook pulling as in a right and wrong way to file a hook.
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In reply to Post #24
It does actually make sense in regards to leverage but to me there's other variables at play.
Wouldn't the softer or harder a rod is, also change the way in which the pressure is applied to the fish? A softer rod being more gradual (even if it is more) & a harder being more abrupt?
It would also affect how the fish responds & how you decide to play the fish etc. The variables aren't constant & there's so many different scenarios, I find it difficult to see it as black or white .
& As B says, a soft rod acts as a shock absorber for lunges.
Its certainly interesting to think about!
I won't be buying any longer & stiffer rods soon though. 
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In reply to Post #26
I see your point!
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You could atgue that ultra sharp hooks lead to faster hooking and thus increase the chance for superficial hooking leading to pulls, where a less sharp hook in the same scenario would kinda slip and not lead to superficial hooking. So ultra sharp hooks hook more, but that could be the downside. And of course there are many other factors in play, but hookwise this could be an explanation.
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In reply to Post #24
I know about leverage and lever lengths.
But he's saying for the same amount of pull.... and this is where the extra powerful rods can add more pressure, and the stiffer tip is much less forgiving when a fish lunges.
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In reply to Post #23
Might find this interesting re heavy action or stiff rods and hook pulls.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qf17UE7nNNU
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If a hook goes in to the bend in the tough lower part of the mouth then there is little risk of it pulling out.
The only exceptions are if its in the scissors and there is some mouth damage, a heavy actioned rod overpulling, weed reducing the direct contact, or a super sharp hook has been wafting around and took hold in some random area.
A super sharp hook will easily get a hold wherever it touches, but that may not be the ideal spot to hold onto a fish through the fight.
Other variables also apply, like the end rig presentation, the feeding situation also governs how the fish will be moving over the bait and how then how effective the rig will be.
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In reply to Post #20
Kamakura Choddy's (or Choddy's hand sharpened Kamakura style) have been a game changer for me. Incredible hook holds & I can't think of a time when I had a hook pull while using these. I'm 100% certain that they've led to more fish on the bank, nothing else has compared so far.
Hooks sharpened to the extreme are fragile & require obsessive care, & I can see why they may not be the best option for every water/person/situation.
IMO properly cared for razor sharp hooks used in the right application don't lead to more hook pulls, they only increase the chance of a secure hook hold & improve catch rates.
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In reply to Post #19
Hand sharpened. Been using J Precision ones for a few seasons but just feel I've lost more fish since using them.
Obviously expect to lose the odd fish, but feel like I lost a few more and also more that came off after being hooked for a little while before coming off.
But potentially over thinking things as most do, perhaps id not even hooked those fish or I hooked into more by using them? Who can tell.
Points weren't turned for the other person suggesting that, fish silty soft bottom lakes and as much as those hooks do blunt after each fish I fish low stock lakes so no problem for me.
Only did the post to see if anyone else had encountered the same, and if there was such a thing as too sharp / fine a hook point.
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In reply to Post #1
Wasn't this the reason Darrell Peck and other Korda boys stopped using the Kamakura hooks ?
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In reply to Post #18
Hand sharpened or kamakura ?
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I fished an easy runs water in France with my brother next to me. I had sharpened hooks and lost about a third of the runs (I hardly ever lose fish) , my brother had the same rigs but hooks from the packet and lost very few. I'm convinced hooks can be too sharp
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For me, I'd be more worried if I weren't hooking fish. The law of averages says the odd one will fall of.. peeps you really don't need to be over thinking it.. 
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In reply to Post #1
Something worth considering, have you reeled in your rigs at the ends of blank session and checked those hooks are still sharp. I found this out the hard way after a few losses I decided to just bring my rigs in to see if the hook point was ok and all of them were burred. Maybe nuisance fish pushing baits around or something. Switching back to normal pack sharp hooks gently brushed with a point doctor sorted this problem for
Me. Just bear in mind those razor sharp hooks are only worth it if you can guarantee they stay that way before a pick up. I feel much more
Confident with gently touched up hooks these days. Also something I don’t see a lot of posts about is not just hook sharpness but hook point endurance. There are some hooks
That simply hold their points better than others. ESPs new hooks for example will turn over after every fish I catch, Gardner muggas are normally good for at least a couple of fish
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In reply to Post #13
Try a size 6 or 8, they will go in easier, had a 102lb cat on a size 6 barbless last year so they are definitely strong enough.
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In reply to Post #13
Happeneing with size 4, wow. I don't tend to fish anything smaller than 8 nowadays, and as of the last few years it'd been a 4 Krank a lot of the time on method, here and abroad.
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In reply to Post #9
Thanks - will have a ponder.
Lead wise it's happened on both light leads, maybe 1.5/2oz and also heavier 3.5
Hooks generally I use a 4, couldn't go any smaller than that in France and has generally done me well in the UK also!
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In reply to Post #6
Using slip d type rigs, size 4 curve shank so far from small hooks.
In general almost all the fish I have landed on that setup are hooked plum in the middle of the bottom lip, I don't lose many fish at all really.. Think I just struggle to get my head around the ones that have been on for a little while, be it 30 seconds or a few minutes and then the hook comes out.
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In reply to Post #4
Can I ask the reasoning behind swapping over to standard hooks when snag fishing?
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In reply to Post #1
found the paul hayward hooks perfect not too sharp that they turn in custard like the pathetic korda ones .Had loads of big fish in weed infested waters in france and never had a issue with them they are my fav hooks
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I think like others that your set up and sharp hook is getting you chances that you may otherwise not have got, so whilst not ideal I’d keep doing exactly the same as long as the ones I landed were occasionally spot on hookhold wise.
If as we have been told and seen, regards getting done, you have on occasions turned these into a hooked fish- on occasions like these we’ve all thought I wish the hook was this or that, or the hook length, line etc was stronger, but I think you’ve got to believe in some of the science regards getting the take, I fish with people who land pretty much 100% of hooked fish, but they get less chances - it does come down to user choice for me.
I think barbless 8s or 10s, line aligned on a combi rig are devastating and my go to rig in many situations, I think the size and sharpness of my hook gives me more chances, that the movement in hookbait helps. I have also had enough well nailed fish to know it absolutely does what I want. Doesn’t stop me wishing that I could have the same results on a size 4 with some rope braid and 20lb mainline.
Breakages I find unforgivable- hook pulls - part of the game and the only time I tweak is when they are happening regularly even then I think that’s done to a change in fish feeding so look at other factors like lead weight, baiting strategies, indicator set up.
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In reply to Post #1
try a much heavier lead & drop it ?
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If by hook pulls we're talking that the hook just loses its hold and comes out and not "opening up" - I highly doubt it is due to sharpening when done right.
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In reply to Post #1
Just me thinking aloud, personally I think the sharpness of the hook is probably what's getting you the bites but it's probably the application of the pattern or rig choice that's responsible for losing them. Sounds to me like they're only just hooked and a ultra sharp hook will catch very easily while another may not. I don't really buy into hook pulls (there's a but) in general if not a position issue for me its too small a hook/the hook not going deep enough for a good hold.
The 'but' sometimes it just happens and as you can't see what's going on its all conjecture, only if you change something and it stops on the whole can you probably say 'thats' what caused it.
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In reply to Post #3
Slightly off topic but…..
I lost 2 big barbel last season on curve shank hooks. And barbel rarely come off ! Losing fish on very low stock venues is BAD news.
Subsequently I found out about a friend of my fishing mate who lost a run of barbel last year when he tried curve shank hooks…..as soon as he changed hooks they all stayed on.
In mitigation, I have caught some big carp on curve shanks (slightly sharpened by me).
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Snag fishing and heavy weed I avoid very sharp hooks. Lost a few to hook pulls. Went to out the packet and never dropped another
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Personally think this has more to do with the pattern of hook. I used hand sharpened esp curves and also lost a few. Wide gape kamakura beaked and it’s been good.
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In reply to Post #1
The other thing you’ve gotta ask yourself, is how many of those fish that fell off wouldn’t even have got hooked in the first place on less sharp hooks? Unless you’ve got underwater cameras set up, you’re never gonna know.
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For most of this season and last I've been using hand sharpened hooks ( Jason hayward curved mostly) and I've lost a few fish in the UK and France with hook pulls.
A couple have come off fairly soon after lifting into the fish, and a couple have just let go after having the fish on the hook for some time.
Or course you then spend time dwelling on how it's happened etc, sometimes you can figure it out due to rig being twisted etc, often just put it down to one of those things that happens in fishing.
But I've seen 2 videos lately where people have advised against using them in certain situations where you potentially could pull out of a fish, weedy waters for instance where you need to be fairly hard on the fish.
Does this have any merit to it? The UK lake I fished is choked with weed at the moment so generally fishing into small holes, tips up, everything fairly well locked down... Which also makes me wonder about the ones I lose as feel that setup should aid in hooking the fish?
France the other week fishing mostly open water but still have drag set pretty tight as don't want them going too far before I get to the rod.
Just wondering about others views on them, if there's situations where you don't use them etc. I realise some fish will just not be hooked how you'd like for whatever reason, some may have overly hard or soft mouths meaning hooks might not set correctly.
Just been hard to deal with this year when my UK lake has done about 20 bites all year and in France it could have easily been a lump that's been lost!
Only time I wouldn't use them if fishing over gravel as the point does turn easily, but that doesn't apply to any of my current lakes.
I've had plenty of fish on these hooks and may have just been unlucky with a few this year 🤣
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