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In reply to Post #22
That's the kiddy. Only apply very thin, even coats at a time. You'll be amazed at how little really needs replacing.
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In reply to Post #1
Would something like this work
https://www.anglingdirect.co.uk/maver-graphite-carbon-spray
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Thanks for replies Jeff,and Shane..
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In reply to Post #17
Spigots are only fitted after the process of autoclaving. Spigots are mostly made out of solid carbon so are prone to wear which is why steve harrison developed overfit rods ballista being the first.
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In reply to Post #17
From what I remember from the Century Advertising years back, it forces air bubbles out of the resin under high pressure which they claimed made sure there where not any voids / weak spots meaning the rod keeps its action for longer!?
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In reply to Post #12
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Does anyone know what autoclaving actually does to a blank ,I'm guessing it preserves the test curve,but would it also make spigots wear less..?
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In reply to Post #15
Im sure you have checked but you would be surprised how many people dont, when i did refurbs i had quite alot that just needed swapping ! Its a simple fix with overfit rods you just take a bit off tip section re whip and epoxy hey presto .
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In reply to Post #9
Yes mate I’m sure,all the rods are numbered up
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In reply to Post #13
There are no spigots ? Even if there was they wouldnt be that loose surely
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Would it be possible to buy a thin large diameter shrink wrap, same principal to the small pieces we use on hooks / rigs but use say a 10mm diameter one and fit it over the spigot, steam and Jobs done….
This is just an ideal and may not be possible or might not even be able to buy the required shrink wrap. Just throwing this idea in the mix….
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In reply to Post #11
Thats the only option with big casting rods like torrix extreme , you need to cut a small bit off the tip section .The spray was used alot for pole sections they are not under pressure like a rod used for distance casting. Im sure the spray isnt available anymore .
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In reply to Post #10
It’s interesting reading. I have had Torrix in 3 1/4 and the TEs and I found that the joints wore quite a bit during my ownership.
Regarding the carbon spray, be careful with that. I once did a rod with Maver joint spray, same stuff, put a little too much on, easy done, should have sanded it back but couldn’t be arsed, first time out, spigot joint shattered. It’s not a permanent fix either, it will need regular recoating and sanding
I once enquired about my Torrix with a couple of rod builders and they both said cutting the joint down on the tip section was the best option
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Thanks everyone for your responses,a few options to mull over.
A mate of mine has tried the carbon spray but has to repeat the process quite regularly
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In reply to Post #1
Torrix do not have spigots they are overfit. If you have had the rods for awhile are you sure you have,nt mismatched the tip sections to butt sections ?
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In reply to Post #7
You can also use multiple thin layers of gorilla glue (not clear, only use brown or white) wiping it on with a paper towel. More or less wiped on, then wiped off, so its a really thin layer. You can't apply more than this in one go or it expands. To be fair, it's so thin it may not be the best to build up existing wear, but it will help to prevent any further wear for sure.
You can also use it as a semi matt rod finish, applied in the same way. It's easy to apply and dries so quickly you don't need a rod turner, and you can do multiple coats in one day. I used 6 applications when I rebuilt my mk1 Armalites last year and they came out spot on. I took the idea from cane rod builders who use the brown version, for carbon i used the white, which dries clear. I also used it on the spigots.
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In reply to Post #1
Armalites were really bad for this after a couple of years you'd end with the male and female joint parts touching, one fix was to cut 5mm or so of the female side witch I always thought was a bit extreme, I found that getting some clear nail hardner not varnish and putting a tiny bit on the male end from the top and then smearing it down the spigot, the hardner is like water you need very little, make sure though you let it dry I leave it best part of an hr before trying to put both sides back together, the process can be repeated until you get the proper gap, if you go too far just wet and dry down with fine paper.
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In reply to Post #4
Old skool. Simple and still works as well as it did in the 70's.
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In reply to Post #1
My torrix spod rod tip was loose, i took the rod to harrisons they ground a bit off the tip (doesn't take much) , then rewhipped to strengthen, i appreciate you may be nowhere near liverpool to drop your rods off there may be another rod builder or someone else they recommend.
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In reply to Post #1
Rub spigot with a candle until sufficient.
May have to do every year
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In reply to Post #1
I had this issue a few years ago on some of my rods, i bought some graphite spray and applied this to build the spigot back up… dont try and put one thick coat on lots of thin coats is the way, I masked my rod sprayed and turned the section continually to get an even cover…
I also measured the spigot with a micrometer in set places and at 90 degrees to ensure the coating was going on even, marked these down on a piece of paper…
I also smoothed out lightly between coats…. Be careful though as its easy to remove all the carbon you have just applied….
https://www.bobcotackle.co.uk/shop/garbolino-graphite-spray
That’s were i bought mine from, i bought a few tins as it was hard to find somewhere that stocked it. I believe you can also get a top layer which is harder and wears less, but it couldn’t find anywhere that had any stock….. i found one application lasted about 18 months then needed doing again, i think this is because it was soft and wearied a little bit off every time you put the rods together hence the reason for the hardener,,,,,
When i was researching this lots of different ideas where about,
Rub the spigot with candle wax, but this doesn’t last long and I believe in hot weather it can melt the wax and make the rod difficult to part,
Apply araldite or similar and smooth with five emery paper, this will give a harder finish, but it would be more difficult to control the thickness and put an even coat around the spoigot,,,,
I use to work as an aircraft engineer may main duties were chrome plating etc, so i was pretty good at the principles of applying an even coating and how to check….
I’m sure some rod builder may be able to offer Some better advice but the above worked fine for me… due to this i always try to buy overfit rods rather than spigot rods if possible.
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In reply to Post #1
Do they have a long whipping from the butt eye up to the spigot? The best thing to do is reduce said whipping to allow the tip section so slide further down.
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I have a set of torrix te s but the spigots on all of them have loosend which causes the top section to turn on a cast.
Anybody recommend anyone that can sort out the issue or a way I can sort it,thanks
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