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In reply to Post #14
Here's how it can put extra load on the reel:
The line is under your finger, ready to cast.
It comes off the spool towards the rod blank at a right angle (or thereabouts)
The pressure during the cast puts strain on that axle, especially if the spool is extended out as far as it goes. The further out the spool is, the more torque is applied.
How can I be so sure of what I've just written?
When Shimano launched the Tech MgS XTD it was in their literature/promo...that the XTD had an upgraded axle
I keep using the word axle, that might not be the official term, but you'll get what I mean
p.s. Found this thread as I bought an XTE Spod at the Winter Show for my second Spod rod, already got a Shimano Spod reel on the other rod but not sure what model it is
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In reply to Post #20
I’ve broke stacks of reels over the years and I do look after my kit. The amount of reels both daiwa and shimano that I’ve had seize up and stop oscillating is scary. And it always happens when I’ve got about 100yds of line in the lake!!
To be fair I stopped buying top end distance reels about 10 years ago now but I’ve had to fix (or have fixed) SS3000’s, Tech Mags, ISO, and Entohs. Ironically one of the best performing reels for me was the original Basias and they were supposedly super fragile.
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I have 2 reels that are used for Spombing/spodding, both are Shimano:
A Shimano Aerlex 8000 I bought around 2005, and that has also been used as one of my long distance set-ups, so fishing and spodding.
The other reel is a Shimano Beastmaster XTA, which is around 6 or 7 years old. This reel has also been used for fishing, spodding and marker.
It could quite easily be swapped over with one of the reels on my fishing rods and I wouldn't notice the difference.
Both are used frequently now with no problems.
I use and abuse my gear, so how anyone can kill a reel I do not know. My reels have been covered in spod mix, occasionally gotten wet, although I NEVER dunk a reel to cast braid, I pour water over the spool.
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In reply to Post #7
I done same with an original Daiwa ISO, wanted something light for spodding, lasted about 5 casts and litterally seized up.
Sent it back to daiwa, they replaced it with a new one. I then sold it on as clearly not up to the job.
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In reply to Post #16
Okay good to know. Thanks mate
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In reply to Post #13
I use whiplash 8 and don't wet my braid 
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In reply to Post #15
The clutch on the Ultegra Spod XTD was fine to pull some line off for a marker, it just snatched a bit on the initial take when playing a fish, admittedly not what they were made for. I could see the rod flying in one day!
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In reply to Post #14
Thanks for your reply! I want to use it mainly for spodding, but also for occasional markering. Would the clutch be sufficient for that?
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Any decent reel should have internal components capable of retrieving an empty spomb. Casting a full spomb shouldn’t put any excessive load on reel, why would it?
I have used Penn 7000LTD for the last few years on both spod and marker. Apart from a bit of gunk on the spod reel, no issues. I use them because the line lay is great, no need to dunk and the bail arm does not auto close. A pet hate on any reel used for spodding.
Conversely I have also used the older Ultegra Spod reels as fishing reels on my boating rods. The big handle and retrieve was great for cranking in weeded up 8oz leads 200m but the clutch was s***, so gone back to 5000T on these.
To the OP, if the new Ultegra reels are any good then the normal reels SHOULD be up to spodding, however I would go for the dedicated Spod for the better retrieve.
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In reply to Post #12
"it was fine before I started using it as a spod reel"
I bet you were dunking it to wet your braid... 
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In reply to Post #11
It had took the abuse from spodding,it was fine before I started using it as a spod reel and the others were fine,my mate still has them on one of his set ups.
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In reply to Post #10
If the reel was already goosed then it's not the knackered because of the spodding.
User error...
"Made a horrible crunch on the cast" tells me that it's not the reel at fault. On the cast there are no internal parts moving and so there is nothing to crunch.
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In reply to Post #8
It was an old ultegra,I was casting a large spomb to an island only about 60 yards.It had taken alot of abuse before but it just made a horrible crunch on a cast and then it would not retrieve the spomb.I have had an XTA spod reel since and its been faultless and just recently got the new XTE spod reel
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In reply to Post #7
Wow, and you are still using Shimano's reels?
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In reply to Post #7
Which shimano reel, and how did it blow up 
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In reply to Post #5
Casting a fully loaded spod/spomb puts alot of pressure on a reel.I managed to blow a normal shimano reel up once using it with a spomb
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In reply to Post #5
Haha yes probably mate. I hoped the Axel was thicker too.
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In reply to Post #2
I doubt the spod reel is any different other than the retrieve ratio.
Reeling in an empty spod is no hard work for a big pit reel.
The extra 35g weight is probably down to the shallower spool so a bigger central core, two extra line clips and a big fat handle.
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In reply to Post #1
I think both are ci4 but spod reel is geared to have faster retrieve so better for spod work
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In reply to Post #1
The xte is ci4 body I don't think the spod reel is and I would definitely buy the spod reel for spodding.It will be alot more robust to deal with the abuse spodding put reels through
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Hi guys,
Has anyone got experience with the Shimano Ultegra XTE Spod reel? I am thinking of buying one, but I am also thinking of buying a regular Ultegra XTE because I recon they are better made than the spod reel (as they are more expensive).
Someone in the shop told me today to buy the spod version for spodding, because of the more robust internals (like the axels). The spod reel is indeed 35 grams heavier. But why would they make the regular Ultegra with lesser internals and still charge a higher price for it? What would you buy for spodding?
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