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Gerry's just reminded me about sponges and I forgot how I do it to add tension to the line in my earlier posting.
I use a large sponge for washing cars etc. I cut it with a slight diagonal narrow ways from side to side and it will fit between rod handle and spool. To increase tension on the line, you just push it in further or pull it out slightly to reduce tension and it also takes into account how much line has come off the spool. That is what the diagonal is for. You should get two sponges to use from one car sponge
I have done this for about the past 15 years and it is the only the true way to stop line peeling off your spool especially on a windy day with a sponge. I used to use my hat but it had a habit of snagging the line and dropping out, not fun if it's a wet or a muddy bank.
The sponge then comes in useful to give the boat a quick wipe down especially the hoppers if need be.
A good few years back, I posted pictures but I think they have long gone like a lot of my early posts.
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In reply to Post #12
Mmmm well you could do
BUT !!
I never do and having owned and used 6 different bait boats over about 15 years I tried lots of different ways
and I had made cotton reel shaped dense foam plugs with a slit in soaked in soapy water( fairy liquid ) pushed in the butt ring
this really helps to cut through water's surface and keeps it clean
the rod stays as vertical as possible this stops the line spilling off the open bail arm and gives a little tension !
also keeps it out of the water helping it to pull straight and as it get near to the spot I pick the rod up trap the line with my finger and pull back against the boat stopping it
while its still powering away until the line is as straight as can be then I drop the rod down sinking the line and at that point
let it continue the final few yards with no tension and drop it
it always worked exceptionally well for me
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In reply to Post #7
close the bail arm just to tighten the line at the end of the boat trip, then open again to drop the bait..🙂
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Once I have my mark spot on, I send my boat out clipped up and with just the right amount of extra line I need for that depth and distance and it drops on a tight line. Also sometimes if I am using my boat with two hoppers, the moment I have dropped my rig and I may also have that hopper with some bait in, I start my boat spinning on the spot and then drop the second hopper full of bait. No need to see the lights flash, you hear the bait going through the props sometimes if its small particles and it gets well scattered around the mark and makes them look for it.
I can also do the same in the one hopper boat, bait in the hopper and rig on the rig release mechanism.
When I tighten up, usually about one or two turns of the handle, my line marker will be bang on the mark I have on my rod or within an inch or two. Only if I am left or right of my mark will I be out of position if I have not aligned up with my marker on the opposite bank and that usually happens when a bit of wind is blowing down the lake. But at least I have the range smack on.
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In reply to Post #1
Terry Hearn says how HE does it on the parrot wasing video
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I put a camera on my bushwhacker and was really surprised at how the bait (boilies) fell, and for how long. In only 3 and a half foot of water the spread was massive. The least amount of bait went directly under where I dropped it, so I couldn't be bothered too much about your rod swinging back. If you follow the rod tip forwards as it falls, it won't swing back too much anyway.
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| | | Belch | | Posts: 4079 |  | | MODERATOR | |
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In reply to Post #1
I always drop on a tight line (open bail arm / finger on spool) as even if it does swing back a little I'm happy as I'll be presenting the hookbait slightly away from the baited area . . .alternatively if you've got two hoppers you can always put the hookbait in one and some freebies in the other - once you've dropped your rig reverse a little and empty the other hopper . . .personally I'd rather mitigate any freebies being dropped over my leader / mainline . . .
As for feeling the 'donk' it depends on how far how your fishing / how deep / what the substrate your landing on is but I usually use a heavier lead (5oz min) and flurocarbon mainline to help with this (with a boat you may as well) as mono can stretch and lighter leads are more likely to move / provide less feedback.
Sometimes the donk can be muffled - I wouldn't worry too much about this - if you've done your homework with a bare lead / decent sonar prior you should have a good idea about what your fishing over . . .enjoy cheating!
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In reply to Post #6
you ALWAYS drive your boat out with an open bail arm ?
unless you want horrendous line twist in no time flat !!
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I was watching the people with boats at Berners Hall this weekend , they were catching constantly and all of them where opening the bale arm before dropping the rig/bait, hence a big pile of worms etc and your rig right in the middle.
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In reply to Post #1
I've done both and it has not made the slightest difference to catch rates. After a while of just dropping without feeling it down you will have complete confidence in doing it.
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In reply to Post #3
Sounds like a decent plan.
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In reply to Post #2
Can someone confirm my logic, about checking the swing back with my technique?
Cast out a marker float and pop it up to the surface
Drive the bait boat with another marker float in the hopper. Drive past the market float as you would do in a fishing situation, feel the lead down and see when the float pops up how far the lead has come back.
Surely this would give me an idea of how far the lead is travelling back?
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In reply to Post #1
Tighten up to the boat and then open the hopper, but the trouble is the hook bait will swing away from the feed...
Anyway, far too much crap written about "feeling for a donk" 
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New to using a bait boat, who still feels the lead down with a bait boat, any tips how best to do it?
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