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In reply to Post #29
Cheers will try.
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In reply to Post #28
Add a few of drops of 3 in 1 to each washer.
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In reply to Post #1
Do the carbon washers wear out, had them in my tournies for several years and dont think they are as smooth as they once were
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I have just done a qd upgrade on my daiwa emblems.
A video and a few pictures to help guide anyone who wants to have a go.
https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=pfbid02WoCA7EaRZq6yixeuqU8YTRYJKz98ssP7bCbHVMUsGMZdsDDuPt5zhSXE2ZRcJcCal&id=100063500165330&sfnsn=scwspmo
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In reply to Post #25
Well done, im glad you did some pictures to help show the method.
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Using the advice below I attacked the cap, I used a small wood chisel to remove the top of the lugs (hence the scratches) i scored a line across the joint so it could go back in the same place, I made the spacer to replace the spring then a set of acrylic washers, these were a tad too thick which meant the spring wouldn't go in, made another set job done, have glued the cap together after a dry run and will take the cramp off in the morning, that will be number 1 done, 2 to go, I could not have done this without all of your help and advice thanks again, below are some photos that may help someone in the future.
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In reply to Post #21
Exactly this.
I had read about using a soldering iron but was unsure.
I used a drill bit, a bit smaller than the hole. You only need to go in about 2mm, so dont go mad...
You can use the spring as a size guide for the spacer that you need to use. It doesnt matter if its slightly smaller, it'll just be like the sping is more compressed.
I improvised a spacer but you can get nylon spacers (bushes) off ebay for pennies.
You can dry fit and test it as the two parts of the spool cap can push fit together and will grip enough to screw the drag knob back on and test the drag.
A small dab of araldite rapid, then click the two parts back together.
These are the sort of things you can use as a spacer.
This isnt the right size, i have just chosen one so i can copy the link, you will need to measure and choose what size you need.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323327974017
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In reply to Post #22
Once you open the cap you can either remove the spring or leave it in. I left mine in and used a cut down piece of plastic (similar to a raw plug) inserted into the centre of the spring to stop it compressing.
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In reply to Post #21
Thanks Dave, thats where I was going wrong, thought the circlip came out then the spring 
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In reply to Post #20
You have to split the cap, if you look at it you will see 10 plastic lugs you have to take the top off these then the cap will come apart.
I used to use a drill bit but be carfeful not to go too deep, the last time i did it i used a soldering iron to melt the top of the lugs.
Remove spring and replace with spacer then araldite the cap back together
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In reply to Post #19
ah, thanks, I have been trying to remove the circlip that holds the spring in place, apart from not knowing what to do and getting cramp in my hands I think I will give it a rest for now, thanks to everyone with your helpful advice 
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In reply to Post #18
When i remove the spring i replace it with a tube packer the same length as the spring, i believe others have packed it out with washers
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In reply to Post #17
is it that the spring in the cap has to be removed or is there more to it?
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In reply to Post #16
What reels are they. They can all be done at home, some easier than others.
Edit...
I have just read back and see you have 5000t, i did my old emblem x spool caps, same sort of job.
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Thanks very much for all your replies, I've just stripped the washers out of the spool to see what was involved, taking out and replacing the washers was easy, but I didn't know the cap had to be modified to make it a quick drag, I'm capable of most manual work and happy to do it, do you think it would be more cost effective to send them to say Weston developments or....
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In reply to Post #10
If you want carbontex then consider this chap
LINK
That's a set of 3 if you contact him I'm sure he'll sell you one set to try, contact him here
LINK
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In reply to Post #12
Changing washers on a Tournie 5000t won't speed up the drag like that, you will need to change or convert the drag knob.
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In reply to Post #10
Future fishing sell the ice washers look on the website on the Daiwa 5000T your probaly need to mod the spool cap aswell take the spring out and replace it with a hallow collar if you want you want it less turns from locked up to free spool
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In reply to Post #8
One full turn from locked to baitrunner, and smooth
Thats what I'm looking for, I have Daiwa tournament 5000T's, I don't know anything about ICE washers or where to get them and their cost, carbon washers for my reels from Weston are £5 each, sounds a bit much for a set of 5....or is this normal, can anyone help with info please where to get any washers that will give me a full turn from baitrunner to lock.
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In reply to Post #8
Definitely ICE washers!
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In reply to Post #5
Having wrote this before bedtime i was thinking about quick dragging my reels all night so this morning i had a google and a youtube.
The spools on there were not identical to my emblem spools as they had a screw to separate the inner ans outer parts, but how hard can it be...
I had to drill out the plastic inner bits to separate the spool drag cap, i had to make a hard plastic/nylon spacer to replace the spring, reassembled and they are spot on.
One full turn from locked to baitrunner, and smooth 
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In reply to Post #6
That is some really interesting feedback. I must admit I prefer my drag to be fairly quick and I fish with braid 99% of the time.
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In reply to Post #1
Have used several types of washers in the past but have stuck with genuine ICE washers in my reels. I don't use the drag unless fishing with braided reel line so the quickness of the drag isn't an issue, & even when using braid, the drag has been smooth as silk with no snatching or such.
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I fitted carbontex washers into my old daiwa emblem 5500x a reels and added a smear of grease.
The drag felt a bit sticky so i wiped the excess grease off and just added a spot of 3 in 1 oil to thin any remaining grease and that seemed much better.
I didnt want to quick drag them and loose the micro adjustment, but 4+ turns with the original fibre washers seemed like a 'drag' to me, the carbon washers have reduced it to about 3 turns and thats ok, ish.
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In reply to Post #3
Thank you both for the excellent feedback! I must admit I do like the idea of the no grease. I might actually do one reel with the ICE washers to do a comparison over sessions almost.
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I fitted the Ice washers to my 3 Shimano 10,000 XSC reels and i am really impressed with how quick the drag is set and how smooth and positive the drag is playing a fish.
Liked the idea they did not need grease as well.
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ICE washers are self-lubricating, Carbontex washers you have to grease
(Carbon/ICE give the tightest Drag, around 3/4 turn, I'm not a fan of it)
Carbon-Teflon washers (C-T washers) are self-lubricating
(these are a bit less tight for the Drag around 1 full turn.)
Teflon washers are also self-lubricating
Teflon is the least tight of those: around 1.5 turn (I prefer teflon washers with the other 2 you miss a lot of drag positions)
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I was thinking about replacing the drag washers for the above mentioned, but cannot decide which will offer more benefit to my Daiwa SS3000's. Any feedback on both of them?
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