|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #62
Even a top end Lowrance GPS will only be accurate to about +/- 3m. That’s a long way if you are fishing small spots.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #1
Marker floats, poles, etc... nah, think we've moved on from that by now guys. My Lowrance sonar has GPS, so I just store the waypoints, meaning I can find the same spots every time I fish the water, even if that's the following year. On larger waters, kit like that is a must have. My unit can store up to 3,000 waypoints. If decent sonar is not within your budget, at least look to get a small handheld GPS, which at a basic level can do the same job.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #1
Bottle markers incase the predator anglers take your H-blocks and GPS on your echo.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #1
Check out the marker buoys by Poseidon. Because of their shape, you can lift the line over them without tangling.
|
|
|
|
|
An easy way to connect a stone that you wish to be discarded on the take is via a slightly opened out paperclip tied to the stone...it straightens out easy enough and is used a lot by pike anglers presenting deadbaits.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #53
Years ago I used to use a boat to drop my rigs in place on a lake in Norfolk. I would wrap some hessian thread around a decent shape and sized stone, then tie it with a knot, exactly as you would a shoelace, to a swivel on the lead link.
As you hit the take, the knot would pull undone leaving the stone on the lakebed. You'd get the thread back for reuse.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #55
Hi Jon, thanks for taking the time to explain, I'm pretty sure I get what your saying, basically just putting something on the rock so you can then tie it to the swivel or the lead clip. I'd imagine the stretchiness of the pole elastic gives the fish something different to deal with aswell. I've seen on YouTube someone making weights from cement, which I may have a little play with.
Thanks again much appreciated.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #54
Hi Chris
Its basically a weak link. I've recently been using 1.25lb pole elastic to get a vertical presentation off a tree branch, it basically breaks on the take but holds everything in position.
You can attach the preffered weight with either industrial rubber bands, drilling and gluing half swivels or cutting loops off the arms and legs off a second hand children's wetsuit (cost £2 and lasted ages)
Then attach the weak link to the weight (about 1.5 inch in length which will give indication of any nuisance fish takes) and the swivel that attaches your mainline to your hooklink.
With trial and error depending on the venue you can fish fairly tight lines at range doing this and the weight gets dropped every time.
If I've not explained this properly give me a pm and I'll give it another go at explaining it
Best
Jon
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #53
Thanks Jon, that sounds perfect. Would you be kind enough to explain the reverse bungee system as I'm not sure what you mean lol.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #52
Hi Chris,
There is no need to use lead when boating out, a large pebble or rock attached using the reverse bungee system will hold the rig in place and easily release upon a take.
I've always used either "lead clips" or bungeed straight onto the swivel between the mainline and the hooklink
Best
Jon
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #51
The lake is split into 2 with a rope and buoys, we have half the lake exclusive just fishing from one bank, and from what I gather as everyone uses the boys as markers these have become the hotpots, I've checked the distances on Google earth and the minimum distance to the rope is about 130 with 200 in the middle swims. I've never really fish with helicopter rigs so would feel more confident using lead clips but would make the change if there was any massive benefits to using a heli setup, but with not much silt to worry about I can't really see any. If dropping the lead would be advantageous I'd rather just attach a swivel to a rock and use that as I don't really agree with dumping leads unless it's really essential for fish safety.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #50
I've used both clips and helicopter setups and it just depends if its safer for me to dump the lead or not. Flat Pears are good or just use Grippa style leads. At that distance you want contact to be as direct as possible so dumping the lead on the take would be my preference.
At 34 acres are you only fishing from one bank? 190 metres seems a long way out?
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #49
Cheers mate, it's a 34 acres with the productive areas anything upto 190 meters where it's averaging 3 meters deep, I've bought a load of 4 oz flat pears thinking I'd fish with a lead clip setup then if undertow is a problem I can put 2 on, but ideally I'd rather not leave a load of lead in the lake so was thinking of making some big stones type leads that will drop on the take. But I wasn't sure if I'd be better of fishing helicopter rigs rather than lead clips?
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #47
A lot will depend on the size of the lake and the range you are going. If you are fishing an expansive water where the water moves as the weather comes in out at 200 yards + it will be different to lets say a 50 acre lake at 100 yards. I've used anything between 4oz and 8oz on lakes.. A lot more on rivers.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #36
Just use 2 pieces of conduit fixed together, they are designed to stick together, that gives you around 14ft,,,,
Thats what we do, and we araldite a large heavy bolt in the bottom of the tube, cork in the top....this avoids any gap at the base for line to get caught round....in practice it rarely happens anyway, but better safe than sorry..
|
|
|
|
|
Right carrying on the theme of fishing at distance using a boat to bait and place the rigs, what type of lead setup and minimum weight do you guys recommend, this may be governed a bit by the rules I suppose, as I won't be allowed to use leaders of any type, the lake bed is supposedly firm and made up of clay, sand and gravel with little silt, but it can be rocky in places.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #45
Very kind of you mate appreciate that, I'll give them a call 👍🏻
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #34
Just messaged Rob Eustace for you (Gold Label) and they have plenty of pro distance. Give bIRMINGHAM aNGLING cENTRE a call when the shops start to open up.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #40
Pm'd you
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #40
Exactly what I do keep it very simple
a short length of rope needs to be not possible to foul on anything prop etc but with a big fixed loop over a bank stick just hop in the boat lift loop and away
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #40
A small anchor that you can just lift in to the boat? Can even have it on the bank and grab it as you get in the boat
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #40
Garabina clips , imperial fishing make a floatation device if you prefer that just clips on .
|
|
|
|
|
Rather than start a new thread does anyone have any tip on how to secure the boat in a fishing situation so you can quickly get in it and out in the lake if you get s fish? I was thinking a bit of rope over a bank stick however not sure if there are any quick release devices out there made for the job?
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #38
Just make a tiny hole in the end of the cane, attach a tiny lead just enough to hold it upright with a few inch of very fine mono. That’s what I used to do, i usually put the marker at the back of spots in the weed but if you need it on the spot and the fish goes through it all that happens is the line will just glide over the cane. There’s loads of other way. Small discreet Lillie pads with long stems was my favourite, small weight on the end nice and discreet. Bit of reflective tape for night finds and drops 👍
|
|
|
|
|
See my post on marker poles 👍
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #36
I would not fish with H blocks in the swim and have fished a lake where you can use them to mark spots and bait but have to retrieve them before fishing.
Have a look at the atropia poles, if you don’t want to go to the expense I would imagine conduit would do the same job.
You are asking for trouble with any sort of marker that has line/braid/string attached.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #35
It was the h block type markers I was worried about tangling and with dave lanes canes lol the section of line below the cane would concern me as the lake I'm hopefully going to has depths of 12,13ft so with a 6 ft cane you'd still need 6,7ft of line below it.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #34
Regarding tangles with marker poles I would have thought this could be combatted by using a heavy lead (or stone) with the pole being only slightly bouyant. As long as there is nowhere for the mainline to snag on the pole then any kitting fish should just slide the line up and over the float.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #33
Nice one thanks for that, I was thinking about the pro distance but it appears to be discontinued as I couldn't find it any where for sale either that or glt are no more. I'll have another look if not I'll check out the cm90.
Good idea with the canes the only thing that concerns me is there is still the line element to tangle on.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #29
Ive been happy with gold label pro distance or CM90 in 15lb. Am sure you will get lots of suggestions of different things. I liked the suppleness of these (a bit less springy off the spool)
Pro distance isn't as heavy as the cm90 so I use that the most, leaving the CM90 for shorter distance boating.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #31
Dave Lane says in his latest vlog that he uses garden canes weighted at one end and secured with a light lead tied to a length of fishing line. Cheap and not the end of the world if you break or lose them .
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #30
Cheers mate have seen these but they'd cost me a fortune especially as I really want 3 and to be fair they don't really do much that the cheaper ones do, thanks anyway.
|
|
|
|
|
What about the fox marker pole? Not cheap but with the weight the line would push it down and then it will pop back up when the line had slid over it. Also comes with reflective tape and a multi colour light on top.
|
|
|
|
|
Right thanks for all the replies you've all been very helpful, now rather than starting a new thread on line and seeing as it comes under using a boat can any one recommend me a mono that is suitable for use when boating rigs out up to 200 meters, ideally I'd use braid but unfortunately it's banned. Cheers gents
|
|
|
|
|
I have been using the Atropa system since 2005 when I was given a set by Philippe Lagabbe to use at Raduta. Brilliant idea. The guy who first dreamed up using buoyant tubes deserves a medal.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #22
Mate of mine has had some in his lake for around 4 years, a bit tatty now but still going strong, had to change the fixing to the weights because the wire was rotting.
I also have 4 juice bottles wrapped in reflective tape , I glued a back lead clip Into the lid which then enables it to be hung in the branches of a tree or bush and if it should get dislodged will float until it’s retrieved.
Without reading all the posts again so ignore if someone has mentioned it before, make sure you have lighting back in your swim so you know which way to head as it’s too easy to get disoriented on the water at night, flashing light is good.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #24
I was looking forward to your write up Hitman. 
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #24
Cool, nice one hitman 👍🏻
|
|
|
|
I sealed all my ends up with end caps
I’ll do a write up with pics tomorrow 👍
|
|
|
|
|
Right so if I make a set with conduit do I need every section to be buoyant or just the top section that sticks out of the water?
|
|
|
|
Hi All
I used the atropa poles when they first came out (2008 ish) and although the concept was great the actual product was awful. They kept cracking and breaking at the joints and mine lasted less than a season. If they've fixed that problem it should be a great product.
Best bit of advice i can give anyone using a boat is to buy some high viz reflective tape. You can attatch it to trees, reeds, canes, h blocks, marker floats or permanent markers. Once finished you can easily remove it leaving no permanent damage or impact.
Best
Jon
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #19
You can get them back after they have sunk but it's a right pain in the arris.... 
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #19
 yeah makes sense.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #1
Word of advice if you use marker poles put them at the bottom of bars/features not on the top of it 
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #13
Agreed I have used h blocks etc but the perfect solution I found was the Atropia poles they have automatic height adjusting if a fish goes round it just sways over and the line comes off
and can even get lights to go on top
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #12
I use h block markers every time I fish and never had a single issue with them.
|
|
|
|
|
Anyone who can post pics up can you pm me your number and I can send you some pictures of the way I made my poles up so very one can see 👍
|
|
|
|
|
Thanks again for the replies everyone, gonna buy some conduit and fixings and make my own, never realised how cheap it was 😂 and if they're crap I'll get a set of those mr magoo
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #8
I use the atropia poles from the tackle box, brilliant piece of kit
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #2
I use a boat extensively in the US.
After using H blocks, with the inevitable ‘fish tangle round cord’ stuff, I have found that pvc conduit, weighted at bottom, is the best approach. For deep water, glue conduit screw in connectors to 2 sectors. I successfully use them in up to 19+ feet that way. Add paint or reflective tape at top to your taste, use foam to seal pipe ends.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #1
I use both marker poles and the gps from my fish finder , obviously it’s up to you if you think carp will spook off the poles , then the gps comes into its own , you can buy relatively cheap fish finders with gps now , the Garmin striker 4 is a great budget gps fish finder unit , and can tell you a lot more about the bottom from the on screen display
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #9
Nice one that would be great.
|
|
|
|
I’ve just made my own out of conduit
Will learn how to post pics from my phone on here and then I’ll post them up 👍
|
|
|
|
|
Cheers gents the ranges I could be fishing are well in excess of my casting capabilities, so I think permanent markers are the way to go I've just seen the Tackle box sell a couple of models of marker pole that aren't too much so I may just get one of them or try making my own.
|
|
|
|
i used to use a marker rod but that was on a venue where you don't cast a lot. have it clipped up cast it out and away you go. (would cast say 20 feet away from where i was actually fishing so you didnt keep chucking a marker on the spot youre fishing.)
if the water isnt too deep a cane is better than leaving a H block out.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #1
Left my h blocks out in france last year, dropped rig 3 foot from it, had no issues with tangles
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #4
They look pretty good handy for when it's dark aswell so wouldn't need to shine a torch over the spots, I wonder if the GPS on my phone would be accurate enough. Cheers mate.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #3
You can pick up handheld GPS location devices LIKE THIS for not a lot of money nowadays compared to the past which would allow you to pinpoint spots without leaving markers out if the venue doesn’t allow that (some people get away by fixing the markers so they sit a few inches under the surface so can be seen from the boat but not from the bank). The one in the links allows 16 locations to be set.
Not used this type myself but for the cost, I am tempted!
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #2
Can't afford fish finders and the like so that's out the question, but good to hear I can leave the markers out I just assumed they would tangle with the line in Case of a bite, I may try to make some of the conduit type you suggested though, thanks for the advice.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #1
H Block markers, canes if not too deep, 35mm film canisters in a similar way to H Block’s, etc. GPS on fish finder if on a large open lake with no features, or same way as casting - mark distance with markers elastic/tape & clip up when taking back out. Obviously this works best with another angler to tell you when you are getting close to hitting the clip.
H Blocks don’t get in the way when playing a fish as they obviously move. Best used when there are no snags on the way in unless able to play fish from the boat away from snags or other obstacles that the H Block weight/cord can get caught up on. Canes tend to fold over if fish goes round them As long as no it pushed in too far. Could use plastic conduit capped off with paracord attached to bottom which is then affixed to weight, meaning that if the line goes round the conduit, it can “fold” over allowing the line to slide off it.
|
|
|
|
|
Hi all, apologies if this has been talked of before, but in need of advice. Right so I'm allowed to use a boat when (if) I go to France in July and am wondering how people find the same spot when replacing rigs after a bite as I presume you don't leave h block markers out when your actually fishing. Any advice gratefully received.
|
|
