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Lead plugging deep (18 posts / 2,186 views)
beetybabe beetybabe
Posts: 29
Post #1 4 Apr 2025 21:29
0
Cast out on my recent session night session with my usual heli set up on a 4oz lead to around 100 yards. Reeled in the following day with a bream attached. I had no indication on the bobbins or alarms, so basically the leads plugged deep into the silt/clay and the bream was unable to move the lead, god knows who long it's been on. This has never happened before and was wondering how I could prevent it happening again?
mark1009
Posts: 4,738
Post #2 4 Apr 2025 21:36
0
In reply to Post #1
Use a running lead, foam on the hook, pull back until you feel the lead unplug, the dissolving foam should give you the time required. Gently tighten to the lead so you don't move it again. Old skool. You can have the hooklink straight or curled up depending on materials used and amount of foam on the hook.
beetybabe beetybabe
Posts: 29
Post #3 4 Apr 2025 21:48
0
In reply to Post #2
Did think about both running lead and foam.Yes, I could see how that would work. Is the running lead system fine for long range casting? Not something I've used for a long time
mark1009
Posts: 4,738
Post #4 4 Apr 2025 21:58
0
In reply to Post #3
Not the best for extreme range, but if you reduced the lead size to avoid plugging in that would reduce range too. You could tie the hooklink back with thin pva string to aid casting. Or you could use a pop up tied on with pva string instead of using foam.
scozza
Posts: 18,421
Post #5 5 Apr 2025 06:33
2
In reply to Post #1
Just an heads up, not criticism. You need to ditch the 4oz and fish 2oz. Theres a chance you could cause some bad mouth damage with the rig pugged in, I know a couple of waters and the fish are in a mess as a result of people using heavy leads plugged in over the years, also, when you cast out feather it down too

JeffE JeffE
Posts: 1,196
Post #6 5 Apr 2025 09:59
0
In reply to Post #5
You could also add using a flat pear lead to the advice below.
kells kells
Posts: 6,017
Post #7 5 Apr 2025 18:31
1
In reply to Post #5
Big leads causing mouth Damage. You sure? I'd say 4oz leads are about average for what lead size most people use these days. I'd say most hook damage is down to the amount of time fish are caught . Never really equated heavy leads with causing mouth damage anymore than smaller leads.. historically I've always put that down to the hooks we use.. we're not tickling them out are we..

Sorry, went a bit of topic there. I'd second all the suggestions listed below. I no someone mentioned pulling back, unplugging already. But it's something you never see anyone do these days. Feeling for the drop is all everyone thinks about. Getting that perfect presentation. Grew up fishing old silty Park lakes. Unplugging that lead. Getting the lead to.sit on top of the silt was something we all done as a matter of course. It was quite amazing at times how much force it would take to unplug the lead. Most of us at the time were using 2oz leads. Not the heavier leads in common use today. Never really worried about the hook snagging up or blunting ether. But obviously there are ways round that if your worried.
beetybabe beetybabe
Posts: 29
Post #8 5 Apr 2025 18:51
0
In reply to Post #7
Must admit something I've never done unplugging the lead. Is there a technique to doing it?...I would worry about how the rigs sitting once I've pulled the lead back..maybe tangled or sitting funny
beetybabe beetybabe
Posts: 29
Post #9 5 Apr 2025 18:54
0
In reply to Post #5
Maybe your right about mouth damage, something to think about, I tend to use whatever lead to get me the distance required...gonna struggle with 2oz at long range casting with a cross wind.
kells kells
Posts: 6,017
Post #10 5 Apr 2025 19:06
1
In reply to Post #8
If your worried about snarling or hook damage. A couple of Starch nuggets will keep the hookink up and away from danger while you un plug the the lead. As for technique. We used to gently tighten to lead. Raise the rod up and gently pull until you see the tip of your rod spring back and the line go slightly slack. This should of moved the lead enough to sit on the silt better. If you don't like using nuggets a small mesh bag of something like boile crumb will protect the hook point just as well.
scozza
Posts: 18,421
Post #11 5 Apr 2025 20:13
0
In reply to Post #7
4oz are standard, really? Be conditioning of the angler?

You live and learn in this game, I have used 2oz pears in such waters on heli set ups for a long time, you say you witnessed such situations with leads plugging in?

When you can't pull a lead out without near on breaking the rod what do you think happens when a fish bolts against it. And because it's closer to the lead it don't mean much. Why do you think a lot of places banned ball leads, dreadful things

Hook pulls, cheese wire braid are something else . And not tickling them out, it's OK to tear half there mouths off then?

And I understand the brutality of hooking them and dragging them to the bank, hook holds heal, leaving them with half a mouth is something else is it not?
AndyClark AndyClark
Posts: 5,815
Post #12 5 Apr 2025 21:19
2
In reply to Post #1
get yaself some trilobe leads...makes a massive difference
pkr2dollar
Posts: 10
Post #13 5 Apr 2025 22:16
0
In reply to Post #1
Try using a lighter lead, around 2.5oz to 3oz. It won't sink as deep and still lets you cast far. You could also switch to a lead shape with more surface area, like a flat pear, which helps keep it on top of the silt
kells kells
Posts: 6,017
Post #14 6 Apr 2025 11:36
0
In reply to Post #11
Didn't think ball leads were around long enough to be banned. Bit of a fad late 80's early 90's. **** to cast. Why would they be band? Mouth damage surely not.
inzenity inzenity
Posts: 473
Post #15 6 Apr 2025 13:24
0
Maybe putting the stopper a bit higher up the line, lighter baitrunner combined with a springer like indicator, so that the lead doesn't need to be dislodged to get an indication. Conditions permitting of course:P
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