Any straight throwing sticks around?
This is about the only one that I could find. Has anyone used one?
Chukka
This is about the only one that I could find. Has anyone used one?
Chukka
In reply to Post #1
Buy a cheep kids whip. Stick a cork in the bottom. Put a bit of shrink rubber as a grip and cut on angle on top. Cost less than a tenner.
Buy a cheep kids whip. Stick a cork in the bottom. Put a bit of shrink rubber as a grip and cut on angle on top. Cost less than a tenner.
In reply to Post #1
Recent thread on sticks, there may be some recommended on here:
https://www.carpforum.co.uk/Shared/Messages.asp?TopicID=441375&ReadAll=1
Recent thread on sticks, there may be some recommended on here:
https://www.carpforum.co.uk/Shared/Messages.asp?TopicID=441375&ReadAll=1
20mm electrical conduit
I've been making straight "Sticks" for years from cheap whips. If I did not keep standing on them, I wouldn'y have to keep making them
Just cut it to length, do not cut an angle at the top and just leave it cut square. If you cut an angle, you can only hold the stick in one position and may have to fit a bicycle handlebar grip and if your holding it slightly wrong, that angled cut will flick your boillie off to the side and make them slightly innacurate.
Once you have done that, you need to cut a piece of dense foam, polystyrene etc to use as a bung. Use the end of the stick to make an imprint in the foam and cut around it.
Once you have made your bung, push it into the stick and position it roughly where the top of your hand is on the stick.
Once the bung is in place, try firing a boilie out of it. The action you need is a 2 O'Clock to 10 O'Clock flick as if your fly fishing. If the boilie flys out high, push the bung down a small bit and try again. If the boilie flys low, raise the bung in the stick by pushing it up from the bottom a tiny bit. A piece of hosepipe is ideal for adjusting the bung, a long thin piece of metal rod etc can "topple" the bung unless you can get it placed central on the bung.
Keep doing this untill you get the sweet spot and the boillie comes out parallel to the ground. Whatever you do, do not keep changing your action trying to make it work, you will get nowhere.
Once you have got it "Tuned", just put a rubber walking stick rubber cap etc on the end of the stick but whatever you use, it needs to be removable just in case you need to retune it.
I use two sticks made like this, one 18" long and the other 34" long. The 18" one is good up to 50 yards, and using the "Fly fishing" action, you can almost drop baits in the water one on top of each other, and because its a different action to using a stick with no bung where you have to get the boillie rolling up the stick as part of the throwing action, you never get elbow or shoulder aches after too much use of it. The longer stick is for up to 100+
But, only one issue with long straight sticks, they actually spin your bait more than a curved stick, if your bait is not firm, they will split everytime the instant they leave the stick and that is when I have to get my Nash Deliverance stick out which does not split them or my "King Cobra".
Just cut it to length, do not cut an angle at the top and just leave it cut square. If you cut an angle, you can only hold the stick in one position and may have to fit a bicycle handlebar grip and if your holding it slightly wrong, that angled cut will flick your boillie off to the side and make them slightly innacurate.
Once you have done that, you need to cut a piece of dense foam, polystyrene etc to use as a bung. Use the end of the stick to make an imprint in the foam and cut around it.
Once you have made your bung, push it into the stick and position it roughly where the top of your hand is on the stick.
Once the bung is in place, try firing a boilie out of it. The action you need is a 2 O'Clock to 10 O'Clock flick as if your fly fishing. If the boilie flys out high, push the bung down a small bit and try again. If the boilie flys low, raise the bung in the stick by pushing it up from the bottom a tiny bit. A piece of hosepipe is ideal for adjusting the bung, a long thin piece of metal rod etc can "topple" the bung unless you can get it placed central on the bung.
Keep doing this untill you get the sweet spot and the boillie comes out parallel to the ground. Whatever you do, do not keep changing your action trying to make it work, you will get nowhere.
Once you have got it "Tuned", just put a rubber walking stick rubber cap etc on the end of the stick but whatever you use, it needs to be removable just in case you need to retune it.
I use two sticks made like this, one 18" long and the other 34" long. The 18" one is good up to 50 yards, and using the "Fly fishing" action, you can almost drop baits in the water one on top of each other, and because its a different action to using a stick with no bung where you have to get the boillie rolling up the stick as part of the throwing action, you never get elbow or shoulder aches after too much use of it. The longer stick is for up to 100+
But, only one issue with long straight sticks, they actually spin your bait more than a curved stick, if your bait is not firm, they will split everytime the instant they leave the stick and that is when I have to get my Nash Deliverance stick out which does not split them or my "King Cobra".
In reply to Post #5
A straight stick Masterclass there....
Quick question.. why the need for a hand grip if your cutting the end at an Angle. And not if your leaving it straight?
Great Post by the way.
A straight stick Masterclass there....
Quick question.. why the need for a hand grip if your cutting the end at an Angle. And not if your leaving it straight?
Great Post by the way.
I love the Harison straight stick I have. Not necessarily the longest but definitely a lot accurate. I use to use cut down broken whips as mentioned below. Still nothing wrong with them but would lie if I didn't prefer the carbon stick which I have had for a long time
In reply to Post #6
If you have cut the end at an angle, the boillie needs to roll up that part exactly where the V has been cut so that it leaves the stick right at the tip of that "V", if not, it will leave at the edge of the "V" before i gets to the tip and it will send the boillie off on a slight angle effecting the accuracy. So it is very important that you hold the stick exactly in the right position. By adding a handgrip perfectly aligned with the "V", you will hold it correctly everytime.
Without an angle cut at the end and its just square, you can hold the stick anywhere at the end as it does not matter. Where the boillie departs the stick will always be the same.
This is why some people struggle with a stick, especcially a curved one, just holding it ever so slightly cockeyed will "fire" out the boillie off line.
Also, you do not have to add a butt cap. its just cosmetic, but, it gives somewhere for slugs to crawl into so the bung will stop them. Also you can add some insulation tape etc at both ends to strengthen them.
Also all sticks need a bung fitted, manufacturers never add one which makes them awkward to use untill you get used to it, but that having to roll the boillie down the stick before you fire them out, makes them awkward to use regarding accuracy. The original "Stick" in Rod Hutchinsons book "The carp strikes back" has a bung in it and that is where I copied my ideas from but deleted the angled cut at the end as it is not neccessary. But, if you fit a bung, it should be just about level with the hand that holds the stick and it has to be fine tuned to get its position right.
Why you need a bung is quiet simple, with no bung, when you drop the boillie in, it goes to the bottom of the stick, this positions it at the bottom of your hand and when you flick the boillie out just using you wrist as the pivot, the bottom of the stick moves in the opposite direction to the top of the stick, so therefore it does not come out. In this case, to get the boillie to come out, you have to alter the pivot point and use your elbow or even your shoulder which allows the boillie to roll a bit down the stick to get it moving. But when you use the stick that way, you end up with shoulder aches from repetitive use. When you fit a bung, the boillie sits just above your hand and also above the pivot point and when you flick it out, it is moving in the direction of the top of the stick so it flies out easilly. You can easilly visualise what I mean if you imagine your holding a stick and where the end, top, and boillie are in relationship to each other and what happens when the stick is moving by just using a wrist movement and an elbow movement. And then you will see, that a boillie at the bottom of a stick with no bung, does not come out easilly.
The only stick I have ever come across that works perfectly without a bung, is the long "Nash Deliverance stick". Why I don't know but for its price, its one of the best shop bought ones that I have come across, seen or used and puts a bait out a long way and well worth its money. Don't know what the short one is like though.
If you have cut the end at an angle, the boillie needs to roll up that part exactly where the V has been cut so that it leaves the stick right at the tip of that "V", if not, it will leave at the edge of the "V" before i gets to the tip and it will send the boillie off on a slight angle effecting the accuracy. So it is very important that you hold the stick exactly in the right position. By adding a handgrip perfectly aligned with the "V", you will hold it correctly everytime.
Without an angle cut at the end and its just square, you can hold the stick anywhere at the end as it does not matter. Where the boillie departs the stick will always be the same.
This is why some people struggle with a stick, especcially a curved one, just holding it ever so slightly cockeyed will "fire" out the boillie off line.
Also, you do not have to add a butt cap. its just cosmetic, but, it gives somewhere for slugs to crawl into so the bung will stop them. Also you can add some insulation tape etc at both ends to strengthen them.
Also all sticks need a bung fitted, manufacturers never add one which makes them awkward to use untill you get used to it, but that having to roll the boillie down the stick before you fire them out, makes them awkward to use regarding accuracy. The original "Stick" in Rod Hutchinsons book "The carp strikes back" has a bung in it and that is where I copied my ideas from but deleted the angled cut at the end as it is not neccessary. But, if you fit a bung, it should be just about level with the hand that holds the stick and it has to be fine tuned to get its position right.
Why you need a bung is quiet simple, with no bung, when you drop the boillie in, it goes to the bottom of the stick, this positions it at the bottom of your hand and when you flick the boillie out just using you wrist as the pivot, the bottom of the stick moves in the opposite direction to the top of the stick, so therefore it does not come out. In this case, to get the boillie to come out, you have to alter the pivot point and use your elbow or even your shoulder which allows the boillie to roll a bit down the stick to get it moving. But when you use the stick that way, you end up with shoulder aches from repetitive use. When you fit a bung, the boillie sits just above your hand and also above the pivot point and when you flick it out, it is moving in the direction of the top of the stick so it flies out easilly. You can easilly visualise what I mean if you imagine your holding a stick and where the end, top, and boillie are in relationship to each other and what happens when the stick is moving by just using a wrist movement and an elbow movement. And then you will see, that a boillie at the bottom of a stick with no bung, does not come out easilly.
The only stick I have ever come across that works perfectly without a bung, is the long "Nash Deliverance stick". Why I don't know but for its price, its one of the best shop bought ones that I have come across, seen or used and puts a bait out a long way and well worth its money. Don't know what the short one is like though.
In reply to Post #8
I have the daiwa stick and it is great, it doesn't have a bung, so I understand what you say about using your arm rather than just a flick of the wrist. I'll try and make a bung and give it a try. I don't have a problem with accuracy, but I do make sure I hold it correctly every time.
I have the daiwa stick and it is great, it doesn't have a bung, so I understand what you say about using your arm rather than just a flick of the wrist. I'll try and make a bung and give it a try. I don't have a problem with accuracy, but I do make sure I hold it correctly every time.
In reply to Post #9
If you try and push a bung down, make sure you can remove the end cap off the stick, otherwise if it goes wrong, you will not be able to push the bung back out unless you can make an hole in it and stick a thin metal rod up to push the bung out.
If you try and push a bung down, make sure you can remove the end cap off the stick, otherwise if it goes wrong, you will not be able to push the bung back out unless you can make an hole in it and stick a thin metal rod up to push the bung out.
In reply to Post #10
Yes, the bung on the end comes off too easily if anything, I have to keep ensuring it's pushed on tightly to prevent losing it.
Yes, the bung on the end comes off too easily if anything, I have to keep ensuring it's pushed on tightly to prevent losing it.