In reply to Post #60
T.e broke his records with a spod rod, i was fishing at 110yds on lochmaben for bream in the 80s with north western 1.75 t.c rods 25mm butt guides .
T.e broke his records with a spod rod, i was fishing at 110yds on lochmaben for bream in the 80s with north western 1.75 t.c rods 25mm butt guides .
In reply to Post #56
True but not all. I use 15lb sensor with a shock leader on mine. They will cast heavy leads far further than the majority of carp rods.
True but not all. I use 15lb sensor with a shock leader on mine. They will cast heavy leads far further than the majority of carp rods.
In reply to Post #62
Because people follow fashion. When i started a 2.75 rod was considered long range. Now people are buy 10 foot 3.5 scopes and calling them all rounders. They just don't understand them. I have my rods for the uk which are 11 foot 2.5 baby ballistas and I would happily take them to any water. I'm no caster and could hit probably 100 yards at most with these. That's as far as i like to fish. Then have some 3.5's for france, which to be honest if i can get away with the baby ballistas i don't use.
Because people follow fashion. When i started a 2.75 rod was considered long range. Now people are buy 10 foot 3.5 scopes and calling them all rounders. They just don't understand them. I have my rods for the uk which are 11 foot 2.5 baby ballistas and I would happily take them to any water. I'm no caster and could hit probably 100 yards at most with these. That's as far as i like to fish. Then have some 3.5's for france, which to be honest if i can get away with the baby ballistas i don't use.
In reply to Post #61
Lol. I rest my case
Lol. I rest my case
In reply to Post #51
That's the real point. Distance/tournament casting and the techniques involved are not particularly helpful for angling in 95% of situations. A little knowledge is a dangerous thing and leads to frustration and disaster and a great deal of expense. If you wish to be a distance caster allow for years of coaching, practice and experimenting and in the end it will give you an edge in a few specific big venues.
Or get a reasonable set of kit and enjoy your angling without tangles or crack offs. Fish accurately from 0-100m with confidence. You won't need braid on your spod rod, lots of cracked off spods/spombs avoided. What's not to like.
Oh! and catch lots of fish.
Go to "badangling" tournament casting.
That's the real point. Distance/tournament casting and the techniques involved are not particularly helpful for angling in 95% of situations. A little knowledge is a dangerous thing and leads to frustration and disaster and a great deal of expense. If you wish to be a distance caster allow for years of coaching, practice and experimenting and in the end it will give you an edge in a few specific big venues.
Or get a reasonable set of kit and enjoy your angling without tangles or crack offs. Fish accurately from 0-100m with confidence. You won't need braid on your spod rod, lots of cracked off spods/spombs avoided. What's not to like.
Oh! and catch lots of fish.
Go to "badangling" tournament casting.
In reply to Post #65
Using heavy braid straight through seems to eradicate 99% of braid related **** ups.
I wanted a spod rod with 40mm guides but in the end it had to be 50s as the lead times were too long.
I don't really get the 'less friction' argument for 50s, surely it's the contact area of the line that determines that. All 50s seem to do is let the cluster **** grab a guide further up the blank
Using heavy braid straight through seems to eradicate 99% of braid related **** ups.
I wanted a spod rod with 40mm guides but in the end it had to be 50s as the lead times were too long.
I don't really get the 'less friction' argument for 50s, surely it's the contact area of the line that determines that. All 50s seem to do is let the cluster **** grab a guide further up the blank
In reply to Post #5
Correct, test curve means very little, for example, I have 12ft 3.5lb pike rods and 12ft 3.5 test hi s ER's... utterly different rods. For most carp fishing, distance aside, you want a medium action rod, most are rated around the 3lb tc mark. I use Free Spirit ES (2 3/4lb)... does make me laugh when you see these muppets margin fishing with long range rods kitted out with 50mm butt rings or worst still, floater fishing with them
Correct, test curve means very little, for example, I have 12ft 3.5lb pike rods and 12ft 3.5 test hi s ER's... utterly different rods. For most carp fishing, distance aside, you want a medium action rod, most are rated around the 3lb tc mark. I use Free Spirit ES (2 3/4lb)... does make me laugh when you see these muppets margin fishing with long range rods kitted out with 50mm butt rings or worst still, floater fishing with them
In reply to Post #22
I've got a pair of Accurix 2.75. They are pokers to me and I only use them at range on big waters. Playing fish on them isn't as nice as my others, which are Ballista Slims 2.75 and Baby Ballistas 2.5.
Built them myself and all of them have 30mm butt rings, then 20, 16, 12, 10, 10, 10 and a 10 tip. The Baby's have one less 10. They look and feel amazing with this ringing, even the Accurix. They also have handles, Duplon abbreviated and full cork on the Baby's. The duplon below the reel seat is 5.5", a short flare above the reel seat and a 4.5" flare at the butt end.
A few truths.
You don't 50mm, or even 40mm butt rings, with just 5 or 6 rings. On the field, it'll give you a few more yards but in a fishing situation there's little difference, apart from killing the feel and balance of the rod.
A handle is more comfortable than just a plain reel seat. The tackle companies created this fashion to get costs down - no handle, few rings, quicker to build and charge more = more profit.
Rods feel better with 4000 and 6000 size reels and there's little difference in casting in most fishing situations.
Half a ton of high build epoxy on the whippings isn't necessary and looks ugly.
You don't need heavy leads for most situations. My standard is 1.5oz, with 2 or 2.5oz on the Accurix at range. One water I fish has a lead limit of 1oz and needs to be fished at 40 to 70 yards. With 8lb line, a shock leader and a stringer they cast fine, the fish self-hook easily and bolt like crazy.
Blank action and material is often more important than test curve and slower rods will cast as far as fast rods in the right hands. Slower and softer rods cause less hook pulls and less damage to the carp's mouth. You can stop a fish in its tracks with a slower action rod and tire them out quicker. Glass rods work well for this.
I've got a pair of Accurix 2.75. They are pokers to me and I only use them at range on big waters. Playing fish on them isn't as nice as my others, which are Ballista Slims 2.75 and Baby Ballistas 2.5.
Built them myself and all of them have 30mm butt rings, then 20, 16, 12, 10, 10, 10 and a 10 tip. The Baby's have one less 10. They look and feel amazing with this ringing, even the Accurix. They also have handles, Duplon abbreviated and full cork on the Baby's. The duplon below the reel seat is 5.5", a short flare above the reel seat and a 4.5" flare at the butt end.
A few truths.
You don't 50mm, or even 40mm butt rings, with just 5 or 6 rings. On the field, it'll give you a few more yards but in a fishing situation there's little difference, apart from killing the feel and balance of the rod.
A handle is more comfortable than just a plain reel seat. The tackle companies created this fashion to get costs down - no handle, few rings, quicker to build and charge more = more profit.
Rods feel better with 4000 and 6000 size reels and there's little difference in casting in most fishing situations.
Half a ton of high build epoxy on the whippings isn't necessary and looks ugly.
You don't need heavy leads for most situations. My standard is 1.5oz, with 2 or 2.5oz on the Accurix at range. One water I fish has a lead limit of 1oz and needs to be fished at 40 to 70 yards. With 8lb line, a shock leader and a stringer they cast fine, the fish self-hook easily and bolt like crazy.
Blank action and material is often more important than test curve and slower rods will cast as far as fast rods in the right hands. Slower and softer rods cause less hook pulls and less damage to the carp's mouth. You can stop a fish in its tracks with a slower action rod and tire them out quicker. Glass rods work well for this.
In reply to Post #68
I use 2.5 tc rods everywhere, I have just one set up..
I don't possess a lead heavier than 2oz,I mainly use 1.5oz
For me it's all about the playability of a rod,I'm not a bit worried about hitting the distance, what ever that is..?..so in short I wholeheartedly agree with your sentiments..
To sum up,I see others using 3.5tc rods,winches for reels,on small lakes with low doubles,sure as can be the ones I mention,are slaves to the NWO,of carp angling newspeak,they don't question the narrative ,or know any better..its the equivalent of two violations in the arm,so you can work,...!..ie brainwashing in angling terms..
I use 2.5 tc rods everywhere, I have just one set up..
I don't possess a lead heavier than 2oz,I mainly use 1.5oz
For me it's all about the playability of a rod,I'm not a bit worried about hitting the distance, what ever that is..?..so in short I wholeheartedly agree with your sentiments..
To sum up,I see others using 3.5tc rods,winches for reels,on small lakes with low doubles,sure as can be the ones I mention,are slaves to the NWO,of carp angling newspeak,they don't question the narrative ,or know any better..its the equivalent of two violations in the arm,so you can work,...!..ie brainwashing in angling terms..
my 2.75 amorphous rods will do 200 yards in the right hands no bother at all ( not mine lol)
In reply to Post #70
But there's a world of a difference between an Amorphous 2.75 and say a Ballista 2.75. Do you think the Amorphous TC might have been marked down a tad?
But there's a world of a difference between an Amorphous 2.75 and say a Ballista 2.75. Do you think the Amorphous TC might have been marked down a tad?
In reply to Post #71
absolutely not NO
its all about the carbon and the wrap and the recovery speed the Amorphous has a wonderful playing action too thats why Im still using them as an alternative to my main rods Century NGs 2.75 when I want to fish in excess off 120 yards
absolutely not NO
its all about the carbon and the wrap and the recovery speed the Amorphous has a wonderful playing action too thats why Im still using them as an alternative to my main rods Century NGs 2.75 when I want to fish in excess off 120 yards
Some great analysis of rods that are more suited to casting than they are to actual fishing 
Id just like to add that a "hook pull" is really a hook rip out... consider this before trying to get a bend in your fast actioned casting brush pole...
Id just like to add that a "hook pull" is really a hook rip out... consider this before trying to get a bend in your fast actioned casting brush pole...
In reply to Post #1
Id say a lot depends on what you doing, If your fishing delicately lighter test curve rods are a must, If your hefting big bags out long distance then they dont work. I also find it a chore to pull in heavy weed with lower test curve rods, even without a fish in there somewhere...
In short if you fish well the only limitations are distance with a lower t/c rod. And like some of the guys said its much more fun to catch fish on those rods.
Id say a lot depends on what you doing, If your fishing delicately lighter test curve rods are a must, If your hefting big bags out long distance then they dont work. I also find it a chore to pull in heavy weed with lower test curve rods, even without a fish in there somewhere...
In short if you fish well the only limitations are distance with a lower t/c rod. And like some of the guys said its much more fun to catch fish on those rods.
In reply to Post #74
Agreed on the weed point, with lighter rods and less powerful reels it is a pain.
Agreed on the weed point, with lighter rods and less powerful reels it is a pain.