In reply to Post #59
Similar to me Neil, when I do nights in the cold it's a tent and wrap, try to be as comfortable as possible. Done the brolly and frost thing many times when I was younger, looking back good memories, must have been crackers!
Similar to me Neil, when I do nights in the cold it's a tent and wrap, try to be as comfortable as possible. Done the brolly and frost thing many times when I was younger, looking back good memories, must have been crackers!
Best item I bought for winter fishing: inflatable mattress with +5 R-value that I put on my Bechair
Coldest night I fished in was -8
Coldest night I fished in was -8
The conclusion I've taken from all comments is that there is no wonder warm bivvy, which makes complete sense now. Condensation may have a slight impact on this (and comfort). Warm baselayers, outerwear, bag, shoes/socks and hat is the key for winter warmth survival. Nonetheless, still want to upgrade my bivvy but what I've learnt from this thread is that alone will not solve the warmth problem in winter.
Big thanks to everyone who has shared their helpful advice and experience. Always appreciated and is why I like this forum.
Big thanks to everyone who has shared their helpful advice and experience. Always appreciated and is why I like this forum.
In reply to Post #63
Nice one.
Nice one.
In reply to Post #1
Trakker SLX V3.
Trakker SLX V3.
In reply to Post #63
And if it gets really cold the lake will freeze anyway.
And if it gets really cold the lake will freeze anyway.
In reply to Post #63
That's pretty much spot on... A decent bivvy can only go so far and its a combination of things that will make you comfortable.
A lot of the time you can feel how cold the ground is, so a groundsheet will help, as will an air mattress/sim on the bed. You can also put things like unhooking mat or luggage under the bed to increase insulation.
A second skin will help with condensation if you get affected by it, but I don't have this issue... or at least I haven't been rained on by my single skin bivvy in years, even fishing right through the coldest months.
Merino base layers, layering and a waterproof removable outer will help you stay comfortable. Took me years to realise the benefits of a separate waterproof layer - you can take it off when it's wet and still keep your insulating layers on. A microfiber towel to dry the waterproofs gets them mostly dry.
That's pretty much spot on... A decent bivvy can only go so far and its a combination of things that will make you comfortable.
A lot of the time you can feel how cold the ground is, so a groundsheet will help, as will an air mattress/sim on the bed. You can also put things like unhooking mat or luggage under the bed to increase insulation.
A second skin will help with condensation if you get affected by it, but I don't have this issue... or at least I haven't been rained on by my single skin bivvy in years, even fishing right through the coldest months.
Merino base layers, layering and a waterproof removable outer will help you stay comfortable. Took me years to realise the benefits of a separate waterproof layer - you can take it off when it's wet and still keep your insulating layers on. A microfiber towel to dry the waterproofs gets them mostly dry.
In reply to Post #67
I've opted for the Cyprinus Typhoon M4 MH which I've pre-ordered this evening. Trying to future proof by having something with good head height so not to bend affect knees/back as I'm not getting any younger these days. Couple that with all the clothing and other items = best solution imo.
I've opted for the Cyprinus Typhoon M4 MH which I've pre-ordered this evening. Trying to future proof by having something with good head height so not to bend affect knees/back as I'm not getting any younger these days. Couple that with all the clothing and other items = best solution imo.
I started fishing nights in winter back in the 1990's, and have been through a few bivvies in that time.
From a Steadefast 50 brolly with Jekh shelter overwrap, original Fox Easydome, Rod Hutchinson Apotheosis, Fox Easydome mk.ll back to a TFG Hardcore brolly, and finally TFG Oval and overwrap.
The warmest Apotheosis and Easydomes were double skinned, and the Easydomes were quick to put up. Both of them were the warmest in winter, but you still needed to keep yourself warm with decent clothing and sleeping bag.
In the 1990's I had a standard sleeping bag that fitted inside an Alpine cold weather bag for winter use. Winter Clothing was one of these eternal, infernal tank suits over combats.
With the second Easydome I got a minus 12 Coleman polar bag, survival rating to minus 12, which was warm at night, clothing during the day was combat trousers and jacket with an inner polar liner.
The past few years I have used a Wychwood Morpheus Extreme bag with the TFG Brolly systems, (sometimes not using overwrap, even in winter), and clothing has been Hoggs of Fife Strathmoor trousers and jacket over combat clothing, not forgetting the Norgi top.
The only external heat I use is the gas stove, never in the bivvy, but just outside, for making regular brews of coffee and decent hot food. Porridge for breakfast, tinned pasta for lunch, and a proper dinner in the evening.
From a Steadefast 50 brolly with Jekh shelter overwrap, original Fox Easydome, Rod Hutchinson Apotheosis, Fox Easydome mk.ll back to a TFG Hardcore brolly, and finally TFG Oval and overwrap.
The warmest Apotheosis and Easydomes were double skinned, and the Easydomes were quick to put up. Both of them were the warmest in winter, but you still needed to keep yourself warm with decent clothing and sleeping bag.
In the 1990's I had a standard sleeping bag that fitted inside an Alpine cold weather bag for winter use. Winter Clothing was one of these eternal, infernal tank suits over combats.
With the second Easydome I got a minus 12 Coleman polar bag, survival rating to minus 12, which was warm at night, clothing during the day was combat trousers and jacket with an inner polar liner.
The past few years I have used a Wychwood Morpheus Extreme bag with the TFG Brolly systems, (sometimes not using overwrap, even in winter), and clothing has been Hoggs of Fife Strathmoor trousers and jacket over combat clothing, not forgetting the Norgi top.
The only external heat I use is the gas stove, never in the bivvy, but just outside, for making regular brews of coffee and decent hot food. Porridge for breakfast, tinned pasta for lunch, and a proper dinner in the evening.
In reply to Post #69
I used to lust after the hutchy apotheosis
not sure why really, just looked good in the pics, never actually saw one in the flesh. Can still remember that pic now... Haha
I had a titan from about 95 ish that lasted 18 years, back when things were made well.... Now I'm in a tempest brolly which is the modern day titan imo - not sure how Kevin dropped the ball with shelters he was way ahead of the curve with the titan.
I used to lust after the hutchy apotheosis
not sure why really, just looked good in the pics, never actually saw one in the flesh. Can still remember that pic now... HahaI had a titan from about 95 ish that lasted 18 years, back when things were made well.... Now I'm in a tempest brolly which is the modern day titan imo - not sure how Kevin dropped the ball with shelters he was way ahead of the curve with the titan.
In reply to Post #68
You did well with the typhoon in my opinion. I've just had a typhoon m4 normal height which was really good - just too big for me so it's going back and I've got myself a tempest brolly v2, had the V1 brolly up till now.
The material and build quality is really good, though you hear problems with nearly every shelter these days. The MH has a zip of front doesn't it? I really didn't like the pack down of the normal height typhoon due to the front poles and having the front panel always attached... The tempest is so much easier as you can zip the front off and don't have an unzipped door to deal with.
If they release the normal height one with a removable front I'll be all over it... Although not that horrible hybrid green one they do with a dpm front
You did well with the typhoon in my opinion. I've just had a typhoon m4 normal height which was really good - just too big for me so it's going back and I've got myself a tempest brolly v2, had the V1 brolly up till now.
The material and build quality is really good, though you hear problems with nearly every shelter these days. The MH has a zip of front doesn't it? I really didn't like the pack down of the normal height typhoon due to the front poles and having the front panel always attached... The tempest is so much easier as you can zip the front off and don't have an unzipped door to deal with.
If they release the normal height one with a removable front I'll be all over it... Although not that horrible hybrid green one they do with a dpm front
In reply to Post #1
Personally always use a wrap summer or winter but that's mainly because with the ultralite you can leave it on permanently anyway - with dillos I never used to bother most of the time . . .
Best winter invention are those little magnetic hooks to hang stuff on - being able to hang (rather than fold or stash) damp and wet outerlayers / beanies / socks so they dry quickly is a godsend. Hate being wet/damp . . being wet/damp AND cold is enough to make anyone take up golf . . .
Personally always use a wrap summer or winter but that's mainly because with the ultralite you can leave it on permanently anyway - with dillos I never used to bother most of the time . . .
Best winter invention are those little magnetic hooks to hang stuff on - being able to hang (rather than fold or stash) damp and wet outerlayers / beanies / socks so they dry quickly is a godsend. Hate being wet/damp . . being wet/damp AND cold is enough to make anyone take up golf . . .
In reply to Post #72
I have been fishing and using a variety of coatings since the 2000s. I concluded that water droplets in the morning could be seen on the inner surface of the tent of any manufacturer, even if this tent is expensive and thought out to the smallest detail - it all depends on the conditions. Water vapor settles on colder objects than air. So, set up a tent where the wind can blow moist air out of it. Don`t close the ventilation windows at night, and don`t completely cover the gaps between the lower edge of the awning and the ground. If it is impossible to dry the ceiling, you can wipe it with a microfiber towel. Also, wetting the tent from the bottom helps to fight footprint (unique bedding for the tent). Good fishing to all and don`t forget about camping lanterns !
I have been fishing and using a variety of coatings since the 2000s. I concluded that water droplets in the morning could be seen on the inner surface of the tent of any manufacturer, even if this tent is expensive and thought out to the smallest detail - it all depends on the conditions. Water vapor settles on colder objects than air. So, set up a tent where the wind can blow moist air out of it. Don`t close the ventilation windows at night, and don`t completely cover the gaps between the lower edge of the awning and the ground. If it is impossible to dry the ceiling, you can wipe it with a microfiber towel. Also, wetting the tent from the bottom helps to fight footprint (unique bedding for the tent). Good fishing to all and don`t forget about camping lanterns !
I think the biggest problem in winter is Condensation
and the sheer amount of thick T***s that confuse it with their bivvy leaking is mind blowing
lunatics that reproof their bivvies every year
boiling your kettle inside a bivvy produces a massive amount of condensation and pretty soon it will be raining condensation drips all over you unless you got a vapour shield or inner tent it will then get wet behind it you pack up leaving it on when you next go you got mould behind it !! that can over time cause a leak thru delamination
I carry a couple of microfibre sports towels and regularly dry off any condensation inside my shelter they absorb it and dry very quickly takes just a few mins
and the sheer amount of thick T***s that confuse it with their bivvy leaking is mind blowing
lunatics that reproof their bivvies every year
boiling your kettle inside a bivvy produces a massive amount of condensation and pretty soon it will be raining condensation drips all over you unless you got a vapour shield or inner tent it will then get wet behind it you pack up leaving it on when you next go you got mould behind it !! that can over time cause a leak thru delamination
I carry a couple of microfibre sports towels and regularly dry off any condensation inside my shelter they absorb it and dry very quickly takes just a few mins
In reply to Post #74
I have the new trakker slx150. Comes with an inner capsule and got the wrap. Don't have any condensation at all due to the triple skin
I have the new trakker slx150. Comes with an inner capsule and got the wrap. Don't have any condensation at all due to the triple skin