In reply to Post #45
Jason Hayward own brand
Jason Hayward own brand
In reply to Post #42
Who is talking about playing a fish on it? They bend out of shape by simply securing a knot. But if slipping knots and/or deformed hooks are your thing, hf.
Who is talking about playing a fish on it? They bend out of shape by simply securing a knot. But if slipping knots and/or deformed hooks are your thing, hf.
In reply to Post #44
I find that I hook myself on Gardner Talon every time I bait up.
I find that I hook myself on Gardner Talon every time I bait up.
In reply to Post #47
How the heck do you bend a hook out of shape tightening a knot?
I'm honestly trying to think of any scenario where you would be stupid enough to grab an hook in forceps beyond the hookshank bend.
I have tied loads of types of knot to my hooks, Domhoff, Knotless knot, Uni or Grinner, Blood knot or Palomar, and I don't think that I have ever bent a hook out. If I tie combi-rigs, braid to fluoro or mono I can still tighten the hooklink materials together without straightening an hook.
If I tie a D-rig in fluoro or mono, and either tie that to a swivel or other knot to another material, still don't straighten the hook.
Out of the packet the sharpest hooks I've found that are still available are Gardner Muggas, Solar 101's.
How the heck do you bend a hook out of shape tightening a knot?
I'm honestly trying to think of any scenario where you would be stupid enough to grab an hook in forceps beyond the hookshank bend.
I have tied loads of types of knot to my hooks, Domhoff, Knotless knot, Uni or Grinner, Blood knot or Palomar, and I don't think that I have ever bent a hook out. If I tie combi-rigs, braid to fluoro or mono I can still tighten the hooklink materials together without straightening an hook.
If I tie a D-rig in fluoro or mono, and either tie that to a swivel or other knot to another material, still don't straighten the hook.
Out of the packet the sharpest hooks I've found that are still available are Gardner Muggas, Solar 101's.
The ESP Claw Hammers are the sharpest I have come across - far sharper than the Gardner Talon tips and ESP Grippers I used previously or the Muggas I use for other rigs.
The points seem fairly durable too, I've used them on several sessions this year and haven't had any points turn over in general use, where they have gone over with a fish it has been the very tip of the point and can be corrected with a quick brush of a file.
The points seem fairly durable too, I've used them on several sessions this year and haven't had any points turn over in general use, where they have gone over with a fish it has been the very tip of the point and can be corrected with a quick brush of a file.
In reply to Post #1
Muggas - always pass the nail test
Muggas - always pass the nail test
In reply to Post #47
Exactly as Nick has said below, if you're 'testing' a hook or knot to the point that the hook deforms then you're doing something very wrong
Exactly as Nick has said below, if you're 'testing' a hook or knot to the point that the hook deforms then you're doing something very wrong
In reply to Post #49
Stupid? I see:P
I have here incizors, fangs and trig hammer. I make a combi link and join line with an albright. I don't want slipping knots so i grab 2 pull tools and tighten up. The fang is oblivious to the power, the incizor flexxes but comes back into shape, the trig hammer flexxes and doesn't fully come back to its shape. It is an extremely fragile hook.
As you might have seen my original comment was directed at somebody experiencing the same. The same has been said by quite a lot on this very forum. I guess they too are all stupid.
Now you could discuss why that happens (gauge and shape), what are the ways around it (there are, but too much fuss for me) and under which conditions such fragile, yet sharp, hooks are not a problem. But you prefer to flat out deny user experience and resort to calling people stupid, assuming everybody is pulling on the hookpoint to the point of breaking the hooklink.
To finish off, because come on man, esp on their latest hooks have increased the wire gauge on certain sizes, but i guess that's stupidity as well
Stupid? I see:P
I have here incizors, fangs and trig hammer. I make a combi link and join line with an albright. I don't want slipping knots so i grab 2 pull tools and tighten up. The fang is oblivious to the power, the incizor flexxes but comes back into shape, the trig hammer flexxes and doesn't fully come back to its shape. It is an extremely fragile hook.
As you might have seen my original comment was directed at somebody experiencing the same. The same has been said by quite a lot on this very forum. I guess they too are all stupid.
Now you could discuss why that happens (gauge and shape), what are the ways around it (there are, but too much fuss for me) and under which conditions such fragile, yet sharp, hooks are not a problem. But you prefer to flat out deny user experience and resort to calling people stupid, assuming everybody is pulling on the hookpoint to the point of breaking the hooklink.
To finish off, because come on man, esp on their latest hooks have increased the wire gauge on certain sizes, but i guess that's stupidity as well
I got no dog in this fight, so to speak,
but,, take a length of kryston ton-up, or similar and thread it through the eye of your chosen hook,and double it back on itself, now tie a simple overhand knot and the same in other end minus the hook, now place the hook into a strong fixture the size of your knot pulling tool, and then simply keep adding weights until something breaks, try it with a wide choice of hooks of differing makes and styles, I did this to find a hook suitable for big catfish, but added a few carp hooks in the mix, quite a few surprised me in their strength, and gave me confidence to use them in my carp fishing scenarios, a couple even made it into catfish rigs.
I won't show my findings, if you do it for yourself you will see the obvious winners.
I don't advocate "winching" fish in on mega strong gear, and the resulting mouth damage, but in balance I don't wan't to lose them to inferior tackle either.
but,, take a length of kryston ton-up, or similar and thread it through the eye of your chosen hook,and double it back on itself, now tie a simple overhand knot and the same in other end minus the hook, now place the hook into a strong fixture the size of your knot pulling tool, and then simply keep adding weights until something breaks, try it with a wide choice of hooks of differing makes and styles, I did this to find a hook suitable for big catfish, but added a few carp hooks in the mix, quite a few surprised me in their strength, and gave me confidence to use them in my carp fishing scenarios, a couple even made it into catfish rigs.
I won't show my findings, if you do it for yourself you will see the obvious winners.
I don't advocate "winching" fish in on mega strong gear, and the resulting mouth damage, but in balance I don't wan't to lose them to inferior tackle either.
In reply to Post #53
I don't want slipping knots, but I still don't deform a hook pulling a combi-rig knot tight with Amnesia to braid.
I 'tease' my knots down, wet, I don't force them. Pulling on a hook beyond the bend towards the point is going to open it out, that is the force of pressure, it's physics.
As a result I 'test' the knot with the hook in the eye of my forceps or chain loop on my Swiss Army Knife. The natural spot that it goes onto is the bend of the hook.
I've tested various hooks over the years, I know which patterns I use can be used in weedy or snaggy waters and which can't. I use plenty of B175's in clear water for pop-up rigs. I would not even think of using them near weed, they open out, even though they are very sharp straight out of the pack.
I'm thinking my way through my tackle box and rig bins, what hooks I have left and what are ready tied, it's down to these aforementioned Solar 101's and Gardner Muggas in size 4 and 6.
The Kamasan B175's are saved specifically for clear waters.
Annoyingly my other favoured hooks don't seem to be available anymore in the UK, the VMC 7023 and 7021's. If anyone finds any...
Boy did they hold their points, and very strong.
I don't want slipping knots, but I still don't deform a hook pulling a combi-rig knot tight with Amnesia to braid.
I 'tease' my knots down, wet, I don't force them. Pulling on a hook beyond the bend towards the point is going to open it out, that is the force of pressure, it's physics.
As a result I 'test' the knot with the hook in the eye of my forceps or chain loop on my Swiss Army Knife. The natural spot that it goes onto is the bend of the hook.
I've tested various hooks over the years, I know which patterns I use can be used in weedy or snaggy waters and which can't. I use plenty of B175's in clear water for pop-up rigs. I would not even think of using them near weed, they open out, even though they are very sharp straight out of the pack.
I'm thinking my way through my tackle box and rig bins, what hooks I have left and what are ready tied, it's down to these aforementioned Solar 101's and Gardner Muggas in size 4 and 6.
The Kamasan B175's are saved specifically for clear waters.
Annoyingly my other favoured hooks don't seem to be available anymore in the UK, the VMC 7023 and 7021's. If anyone finds any...
Boy did they hold their points, and very strong.
In reply to Post #55
I think we are getting somewhere, i too fished many years with the kamasan, and that's also (especially to today's standards) a fragile hook. But the bend in that one is different, less prone to deforming.
Look, i've been at this for more than 40 years, i can put on a size 18 blindfolded so to speak. I'm just sharing my experience and even give a comparison between several hooks and how they respond to tightening. I was pretty disappointed with the trig hammer, because with wetting and bedding it down, and exerting the same force it deforms where others don't. If you look at the pattern you can see why that happens, and a thicker wire gauge could solve that. I also found out that grabbing the shank with pliers is a way around it, and i'm sure in open water clipped into one of those esp ronnie clips it's one hell of a hook (or hooker, cause i love that shape). But comparatively spoken and looking at the waters i fish it's too delicate for me.
I'm done bitching btw, and wish you a merry christmas and good fishes and all that
I think we are getting somewhere, i too fished many years with the kamasan, and that's also (especially to today's standards) a fragile hook. But the bend in that one is different, less prone to deforming.
Look, i've been at this for more than 40 years, i can put on a size 18 blindfolded so to speak. I'm just sharing my experience and even give a comparison between several hooks and how they respond to tightening. I was pretty disappointed with the trig hammer, because with wetting and bedding it down, and exerting the same force it deforms where others don't. If you look at the pattern you can see why that happens, and a thicker wire gauge could solve that. I also found out that grabbing the shank with pliers is a way around it, and i'm sure in open water clipped into one of those esp ronnie clips it's one hell of a hook (or hooker, cause i love that shape). But comparatively spoken and looking at the waters i fish it's too delicate for me.
I'm done bitching btw, and wish you a merry christmas and good fishes and all that
In reply to Post #33
I love the chod hammers. And now back to a straight point ,seem to bury better. I actually like the fact they are a finer gauge, sometimes hook needs replacing after a a fish, depending on where its been I hooked in mouth but super sharp Hooks. No lost fish yet. Should note using a multi hinge, so I don't actually ever put any pressure on the hook when making the rig
I love the chod hammers. And now back to a straight point ,seem to bury better. I actually like the fact they are a finer gauge, sometimes hook needs replacing after a a fish, depending on where its been I hooked in mouth but super sharp Hooks. No lost fish yet. Should note using a multi hinge, so I don't actually ever put any pressure on the hook when making the rig
Hi all,
Just to be clear i was using size 5 trig hammers, tying chod rigs with Gardner 25lb stiff link. If you've used that material, its very thick more like 30lb bristle and it takes a lot to bed down a 2 turn blood knot fully on it. I recently saw a video where they only used a 1 turn for it so that may have solved this issue for me. I fully agree that, the pressure i had to use probably isn't a realistic amount that will be applied during a fish fight. I'm grateful this happened as it made me find angling iron hooks and I am much happier with these anyway, feel more robust and nearly if not, as sharp. They were kind enough to send me a sample of their curves as well, and potentially could end up swapping out my dear Muggas in future. All in all, think the trigs and chod hammers fine, just prefer the extra confidence of my new hooks in case i really have to hit and hold.
Just to be clear i was using size 5 trig hammers, tying chod rigs with Gardner 25lb stiff link. If you've used that material, its very thick more like 30lb bristle and it takes a lot to bed down a 2 turn blood knot fully on it. I recently saw a video where they only used a 1 turn for it so that may have solved this issue for me. I fully agree that, the pressure i had to use probably isn't a realistic amount that will be applied during a fish fight. I'm grateful this happened as it made me find angling iron hooks and I am much happier with these anyway, feel more robust and nearly if not, as sharp. They were kind enough to send me a sample of their curves as well, and potentially could end up swapping out my dear Muggas in future. All in all, think the trigs and chod hammers fine, just prefer the extra confidence of my new hooks in case i really have to hit and hold.
In reply to Post #55
VMC available here,
https://www.protackleshop.co.uk/en5/vmc-hooks-7021-short-shank-specimen/s/140
https://www.protackleshop.co.uk/en5/vmc-hooks-7023-long-straight-shank/s/144
VMC available here,
https://www.protackleshop.co.uk/en5/vmc-hooks-7021-short-shank-specimen/s/140
https://www.protackleshop.co.uk/en5/vmc-hooks-7023-long-straight-shank/s/144
In reply to Post #59
carpers essentials elite hooks sharpest ive used in 40 years off fishing
carpers essentials elite hooks sharpest ive used in 40 years off fishing