In reply to Post #24
Thanks, reverted back to my original thinking
I have used line weight before when doing this, I know the weight of an empty manufacturers spool and then see how many grams it goes down by.
Then take the same amount for the next spool, but it's a faff and not mega accurate
I've also used the distance sticks method, but after getting in a mess with braid once I don't like that method anymore.
When using the playing field/grass combing technique be aware of stones/mole hills. When I loaded my CM90 a few years back one rod (retrieving the line) was tougher. I figured line had somewhere whipped around a bit of grass so just leant into the rod and pulled the line to get it through. Unfortauntelyr, the line had cut into some dirt until it was against stone. When I got the last 50 yards back to me and the line ran through my fingers onto the spool I could feel the abrasions :(
Thanks, reverted back to my original thinking
I have used line weight before when doing this, I know the weight of an empty manufacturers spool and then see how many grams it goes down by.
Then take the same amount for the next spool, but it's a faff and not mega accurate
I've also used the distance sticks method, but after getting in a mess with braid once I don't like that method anymore.
When using the playing field/grass combing technique be aware of stones/mole hills. When I loaded my CM90 a few years back one rod (retrieving the line) was tougher. I figured line had somewhere whipped around a bit of grass so just leant into the rod and pulled the line to get it through. Unfortauntelyr, the line had cut into some dirt until it was against stone. When I got the last 50 yards back to me and the line ran through my fingers onto the spool I could feel the abrasions :(
In reply to Post #30
I think the Weston spools have a much higher capacity so won't work.
I think the Weston spools have a much higher capacity so won't work.
So I think I'm down to two options:
1. Load one spool up with the cheap stuff counting the turns, then take half onto the other spool - so if 300 turns is a full spool, do 150 onto the other. Thing is I won't know how much space this.leavea for the fluoro, this could be more accurate with Belch's calculator/help
2. Reverse load up both spools (fluoro then cheap line) and take it down the field to 'rotate'.
Like mentioned before, once the backing is on it'll never come off and I'll always be able to respool with 200m shots in the future
1. Load one spool up with the cheap stuff counting the turns, then take half onto the other spool - so if 300 turns is a full spool, do 150 onto the other. Thing is I won't know how much space this.leavea for the fluoro, this could be more accurate with Belch's calculator/help
2. Reverse load up both spools (fluoro then cheap line) and take it down the field to 'rotate'.
Like mentioned before, once the backing is on it'll never come off and I'll always be able to respool with 200m shots in the future
This thread is hurting my head.
Not as useful and scientific as others but here's what I did and why.
Flouro casts like a bag of spanner's so perfect spool filling didn't overly concern me. I had the old line still on the spools, so I roughly worked out what I would need to remove and stripped off line onto distance sticks - then reloaded with Flouro.
I did the same with 2nd spool removing the ish wraps I needed to load up 200m.
First spool looked cock on 2nd spool could have done another 20 yards but less than half hour and more Flouro on the spool than I'd ever be able to cast.
As others have said I can't get my head round handle counts given the spool diameter is constantly changing.
Not as useful and scientific as others but here's what I did and why.
Flouro casts like a bag of spanner's so perfect spool filling didn't overly concern me. I had the old line still on the spools, so I roughly worked out what I would need to remove and stripped off line onto distance sticks - then reloaded with Flouro.
I did the same with 2nd spool removing the ish wraps I needed to load up 200m.
First spool looked cock on 2nd spool could have done another 20 yards but less than half hour and more Flouro on the spool than I'd ever be able to cast.
As others have said I can't get my head round handle counts given the spool diameter is constantly changing.
Google line spool calculator and buy yourself a line counter. I've got a Berkeley one which I use. Little bit of math and a tenner no need to trek over a field or use wrap sticks putting on and then reversing hundreds of yard of line
In reply to Post #28
@Zack - totally understand the method but you're always going to have a one spool with the mainline on the bottom of the spool . . so you're either retaining this for the future / binning or reverse spooling on the last spool - which with fluro is arguably an expensive mistake and just adds twist
@55 - That is usually the method I use in reality (the last time I stripped mono for fluro on filled spools rather than spare ones) and its arguably easier if the backing line and new mainline are the same diameter . . .if its 200M of new line (of the same dia) then simply remove 200M in wraps (55 wraps) and spool on the new line . . .
However - if you want to be accurate with mixed line dias / backers / mainline (and don't want to mess around reverse spooling and twisting up line unnecessarily) then the calculator and a bit of basic maths makes it easy - I've just done it with some new 0.40 mainline on spools that take 300M of 0.35 - the 0.40 is on 250M spools but will fill the reel spools at 230M leaving an excess of 20M . . . .no probs / no backer required.
However if I wanted to be tight (the line is £30 a spool!) and only use 125M to use on two reels (which is fine as its for use on a small lake) I can work out EXACTLY how much backer I need in whatever diameter (in this instance 137M/150yds/37.5wraps of 0.35) which I can reel on directly as backer and then fill the rest of the spool with 0.40 mainline safe in the knowledge that I'm using exactly 125M . . . . .simple!
@Zack - totally understand the method but you're always going to have a one spool with the mainline on the bottom of the spool . . so you're either retaining this for the future / binning or reverse spooling on the last spool - which with fluro is arguably an expensive mistake and just adds twist
@55 - That is usually the method I use in reality (the last time I stripped mono for fluro on filled spools rather than spare ones) and its arguably easier if the backing line and new mainline are the same diameter . . .if its 200M of new line (of the same dia) then simply remove 200M in wraps (55 wraps) and spool on the new line . . .
However - if you want to be accurate with mixed line dias / backers / mainline (and don't want to mess around reverse spooling and twisting up line unnecessarily) then the calculator and a bit of basic maths makes it easy - I've just done it with some new 0.40 mainline on spools that take 300M of 0.35 - the 0.40 is on 250M spools but will fill the reel spools at 230M leaving an excess of 20M . . . .no probs / no backer required.
However if I wanted to be tight (the line is £30 a spool!) and only use 125M to use on two reels (which is fine as its for use on a small lake) I can work out EXACTLY how much backer I need in whatever diameter (in this instance 137M/150yds/37.5wraps of 0.35) which I can reel on directly as backer and then fill the rest of the spool with 0.40 mainline safe in the knowledge that I'm using exactly 125M . . . . .simple!
In reply to Post #36
>>>@Zack - totally understand the method but you're always going to have a one spool with the mainline on the bottom of the spool . . so you're either retaining this for the future / binning or reverse spooling on the last spool<<<<
No you are not going to end up with a spool with mainline at the bottom, it gets backing line attached and wound onto an empty spool, backing first followed by the mainline. And I have been doing this for years and I don't get line twist and is a commone practice to fill spools like that.
Twice now I have mentioned it gets wound onto an empty spool, what is so hard to understand?
>>>@Zack - totally understand the method but you're always going to have a one spool with the mainline on the bottom of the spool . . so you're either retaining this for the future / binning or reverse spooling on the last spool<<<<
No you are not going to end up with a spool with mainline at the bottom, it gets backing line attached and wound onto an empty spool, backing first followed by the mainline. And I have been doing this for years and I don't get line twist and is a commone practice to fill spools like that.
Twice now I have mentioned it gets wound onto an empty spool, what is so hard to understand?
In reply to Post #37
No need to get the *rse m8 - I totally understand what you are saying - however you are ignoring what I'm saying (presumably because you don't have the bandwidth) You ARE reverse spooling on the last reel spool - which whilst a legitimate method is for nods IMO (tin hat on lol
)
Why anyone would want additional line twist with brand new line is beyond me . . . .not so much of an issue with braid / thinner diameter mono - but def an issue with most heavier gauge mainlines / expensive fluro specifically . . . . . . . . .if the OP / You / Terry Hearn himself wants to reverse spool I really don't care - just helping the forum understand you can negate this by understanding the spool capacity and using a simple calc app and a bit of basic maths . . . .
No need to get the *rse m8 - I totally understand what you are saying - however you are ignoring what I'm saying (presumably because you don't have the bandwidth) You ARE reverse spooling on the last reel spool - which whilst a legitimate method is for nods IMO (tin hat on lol
)Why anyone would want additional line twist with brand new line is beyond me . . . .not so much of an issue with braid / thinner diameter mono - but def an issue with most heavier gauge mainlines / expensive fluro specifically . . . . . . . . .if the OP / You / Terry Hearn himself wants to reverse spool I really don't care - just helping the forum understand you can negate this by understanding the spool capacity and using a simple calc app and a bit of basic maths . . . .
Tried to do the maths and gave up (thanks for the offer to help Belch).
So toddled off to a field this morning after loading them up in reverse. All sorted and twist removed as best as I could winding it back in, I got quite a bead on too 😂😂
Cheers for all the advice 👍👍
So toddled off to a field this morning after loading them up in reverse. All sorted and twist removed as best as I could winding it back in, I got quite a bead on too 😂😂
Cheers for all the advice 👍👍