In reply to Post #1
I've not used my solid file since wrapping a small length of square section wood with fine wet and dry. The main advantage I've found is the wet and dry has a little bit of give and so the angle is therefore not critical unlike using a solid file. Especially useful when touching up the hooks on the bank to get the sharpest point.
I've not used my solid file since wrapping a small length of square section wood with fine wet and dry. The main advantage I've found is the wet and dry has a little bit of give and so the angle is therefore not critical unlike using a solid file. Especially useful when touching up the hooks on the bank to get the sharpest point.
In reply to Post #14
The postman has just delivered a set of small Draper files, and I have just sharpened a hook with the flat file and the results are decent. The flat file will be living in my fishing tackle from now on...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364218666270
The postman has just delivered a set of small Draper files, and I have just sharpened a hook with the flat file and the results are decent. The flat file will be living in my fishing tackle from now on...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364218666270
In reply to Post #17
just came back from oxford fishing,and i gave the proops file ago. your dead right its exellent,
just about to order another great shout.
just came back from oxford fishing,and i gave the proops file ago. your dead right its exellent,
just about to order another great shout.
In reply to Post #18
what is the Proops file?
what is the Proops file?
In reply to Post #19
See post #3
See post #3
In reply to Post #1
Hi chaps, so being from JAG what I'm writing is going to come across biased and a desperate attempt to get you to buy the JAG file. Tbh what we'd make on a few files isn't worth my time writing this but I'm doing it to help, honestly. I've been in precision engineering for 34 years now and feel I know a little about cutting steel. First off, Diamond files, these are designed for removing small amounts of material from very hard material such as tungsten carbide or hardened tool steels etc, diamond files/laps are not intended for use on the type/hardness of steel used in hook manufacture. Why do companies release such laps for hook sharpening? I can only presume the product sounds good but they lack the expertise to know what they are talking about. Using a diamond lap on a hook is like taking a piece of timber and chamfering the edges by running it down the brickwork of a house. A high speed steel cut file is like using a wood planer on that timber. So to remove the bulk of the material you should use a cut file. Now the quality of cut files varies massively and you really do get what you pay for. The cheap Draper type files and other cheap tooling company files are basically ‘dog sh#%e'. I've been using cut files to deburr parts I've machined since I left school in the 80's and have used everything from cheap crap to the best Swiss files. Vallorbe is the best in the world as far as my experience tells me. Go for a cut 3 or 4 Vallorbe for removing the bulk of material/reshaping the point and a good quality stone IF you want to polish the point to the next level. Oh by the way the JAG SP max file is a cut 3 made for us by Vallorbe :-) Lastly, these files will sharpen hundreds of hooks but they won't last forever, when they are past their best they need replacing. Even more so with the stones. Really hope this helps but I do not think you can get better than the SP Max file, it's why we haven't changed it in all these years. Happy sharpening and tight lines. Jim
Hi chaps, so being from JAG what I'm writing is going to come across biased and a desperate attempt to get you to buy the JAG file. Tbh what we'd make on a few files isn't worth my time writing this but I'm doing it to help, honestly. I've been in precision engineering for 34 years now and feel I know a little about cutting steel. First off, Diamond files, these are designed for removing small amounts of material from very hard material such as tungsten carbide or hardened tool steels etc, diamond files/laps are not intended for use on the type/hardness of steel used in hook manufacture. Why do companies release such laps for hook sharpening? I can only presume the product sounds good but they lack the expertise to know what they are talking about. Using a diamond lap on a hook is like taking a piece of timber and chamfering the edges by running it down the brickwork of a house. A high speed steel cut file is like using a wood planer on that timber. So to remove the bulk of the material you should use a cut file. Now the quality of cut files varies massively and you really do get what you pay for. The cheap Draper type files and other cheap tooling company files are basically ‘dog sh#%e'. I've been using cut files to deburr parts I've machined since I left school in the 80's and have used everything from cheap crap to the best Swiss files. Vallorbe is the best in the world as far as my experience tells me. Go for a cut 3 or 4 Vallorbe for removing the bulk of material/reshaping the point and a good quality stone IF you want to polish the point to the next level. Oh by the way the JAG SP max file is a cut 3 made for us by Vallorbe :-) Lastly, these files will sharpen hundreds of hooks but they won't last forever, when they are past their best they need replacing. Even more so with the stones. Really hope this helps but I do not think you can get better than the SP Max file, it's why we haven't changed it in all these years. Happy sharpening and tight lines. Jim
In reply to Post #21
I've been using the jag green handle stone thingys but find the coating rubs off after a couple of strokes, is this normal?
I've been using the jag green handle stone thingys but find the coating rubs off after a couple of strokes, is this normal?
In reply to Post #22
It's not anything rubbing off, it's the pores clogging up. If you have the red one too just rub the two together to clear it
Hook coatings are a bitch for clogging abrasives which is why I don't like diamond stones/files for hooks
It's not anything rubbing off, it's the pores clogging up. If you have the red one too just rub the two together to clear it
Hook coatings are a bitch for clogging abrasives which is why I don't like diamond stones/files for hooks
In reply to Post #22
The green stone is very fine. Personally I just use the red stone after the file but nothing wrong with going file/red/green. When you say the coating comes off, the coating will come off the hooks yes. If you mean coating on stone, there isn't a coating but you will see the stone blacken from very fine debris from the hook. This is totally normal. Good tip, you should be looking to do as little work with the stone as possible, ideally used for a final hone of the surfaces after doing 95% with the cut file. Trying to do too much with the stone will see the stones groove prematurely and/or clog the abrasive surface with steel. Another tip, you can prolong the life of the stones further by running them several times down the back (unused) side of a pair of scissors or similar. Support back of stone with your finger so as not to snap them. This basically redresses the stone face flat again. I'll get through 2x files and probably 6x red stones a season but this is fishing 48hrs every week. Hope this helps.
The green stone is very fine. Personally I just use the red stone after the file but nothing wrong with going file/red/green. When you say the coating comes off, the coating will come off the hooks yes. If you mean coating on stone, there isn't a coating but you will see the stone blacken from very fine debris from the hook. This is totally normal. Good tip, you should be looking to do as little work with the stone as possible, ideally used for a final hone of the surfaces after doing 95% with the cut file. Trying to do too much with the stone will see the stones groove prematurely and/or clog the abrasive surface with steel. Another tip, you can prolong the life of the stones further by running them several times down the back (unused) side of a pair of scissors or similar. Support back of stone with your finger so as not to snap them. This basically redresses the stone face flat again. I'll get through 2x files and probably 6x red stones a season but this is fishing 48hrs every week. Hope this helps.
Best thing you can do to prolong the life of your files and stones, is to get a cheap RED point doctor from Gardner. Useless for removing metal/real sharpening... But absolutely mustard for rapidly removing all of the PTFE hook coatings, and not clogging up your file/stones. Better for buffing up than a green stone too.
Red Jag stone, SP Max file, red point doctor. That's it.
I've purchased two red stones and one SP file in like absolutely donkeys years, sharpened tonnes of hooks with them. Cheap for the longevity and the amount of extra carp they have caught me.
Don't throw your red Jag stone away when it gets a large groove in it either. Once they become grooved, they are so much better for beaked point hooks.
Red Jag stone, SP Max file, red point doctor. That's it.
I've purchased two red stones and one SP file in like absolutely donkeys years, sharpened tonnes of hooks with them. Cheap for the longevity and the amount of extra carp they have caught me.
Don't throw your red Jag stone away when it gets a large groove in it either. Once they become grooved, they are so much better for beaked point hooks.
I've always used the SP Max file with the Vice and it's done me well.
If I want I can get them super sharp with patience, but I often don't want this.
Not tried the the red stone but I'm going to try it, as I think the Max file can be too heavy handed at certain times when I rush and get impatient, and I lose the hook.
I saw a video where someone was recommending (red stone) it to mend the point on the inside? e.g. point bent inwards.
On the subject of hook sharpening, Gardner sell a Hook Stone for £30!
Double sided. (two files) Anyone used one?
If I want I can get them super sharp with patience, but I often don't want this.
Not tried the the red stone but I'm going to try it, as I think the Max file can be too heavy handed at certain times when I rush and get impatient, and I lose the hook.
I saw a video where someone was recommending (red stone) it to mend the point on the inside? e.g. point bent inwards.
On the subject of hook sharpening, Gardner sell a Hook Stone for £30!
Double sided. (two files) Anyone used one?
In reply to Post #26
The red Jag stone is the one thing I could never be without. I also find the SP slightly savage for what I need most of the time. I tend to only use that on much beefier hooks, where I am looking to remove a fair bit. That tends to be larger size beak points for bottom bait fishing. Or trebles for pike.
For straight pointed hooks and pop ups, chods, SHR etc... I always just use a red handle Jag stone.
If you want slightly less savage than the SP, the red Jag stone will be perfect for you Danny.
The red Jag stone is the one thing I could never be without. I also find the SP slightly savage for what I need most of the time. I tend to only use that on much beefier hooks, where I am looking to remove a fair bit. That tends to be larger size beak points for bottom bait fishing. Or trebles for pike.
For straight pointed hooks and pop ups, chods, SHR etc... I always just use a red handle Jag stone.
If you want slightly less savage than the SP, the red Jag stone will be perfect for you Danny.
Had a few files over the years but a vallorbe one i bought a few years ago is the best ive used. The bigger files are a lot easier to hold and use as well.
In reply to Post #25
How does Gardner stone compare to 2-soded TA one, or anyone tried the pb products one? Bit of a different concept the latter - stock it in and twist it (guess if it works, that's only on straight points)
How does Gardner stone compare to 2-soded TA one, or anyone tried the pb products one? Bit of a different concept the latter - stock it in and twist it (guess if it works, that's only on straight points)
In reply to Post #29
The TA one is handy with having both of the abrasions in one stone over carrying two of the gardner ones.Its a little bit thicker too and is easier to hold,not used the pb one so can't help with that
The TA one is handy with having both of the abrasions in one stone over carrying two of the gardner ones.Its a little bit thicker too and is easier to hold,not used the pb one so can't help with that