In reply to Post #1
Portek cross head with diamonds edge line. It's a fixed head with 2 or 4 cutting cords. The diamond edge line is very robust and lasts a long time. Cut into lengths say 500mm to suit your strimmer guard, then it passes through the head and is clamped into place. I very rarely use my blade now unless I'm cutting 20mm blackthorn.
Depending on what engine size you have, you can cut the line shorter if you are lacking in power or use a thinner line. 4 mm diamond edge for strimmers around 2 kw or thinner for smaller engines. It's the best line I've come across. There are other versions of the cross head fixed line theme but portek has lasted me well and will take different line sizes.

In reply to Post #8
Just spoken to my neighbour about this and he reckoned you have done the right thing.
He did say that worktops vary a bit in depth so if yours are only 600mm then perhaps that is why the units were kept back close to the wall.
Given a 620mm (or more) worktop and fairly straight walls that don't need the decorative panels cut too much, then he tries to position the units to give a decent air gap behind.
He also thought that either way you wouldn't have a major problem, but the motor would have run longer with a smaller air gap.

In reply to Post #6
No problem. I think as you say, it probably would have been best to have moved your units out to 600 from the wall. Hindsight is a wonderful thing but your “workaround” seems a good way to go.

Logically, less air gap must means a restricted air flow, increased motor running time with the associated cost of extra electricity and reduced life. I'm sure we both can imagine a manufacture saying yes you have not installed the appliance to our spec, but we will still replace it under warranty. I think the word is Ha!
Being cynical, perhaps the fitters you spoke to weren't too worried about you using a bit more electricity and your appliance wearing out a little quicker. I believe integrated fridges and freezers have larger motors to help with the reduced air circulation / cooling but having a smaller than specified air gap cannot be good.

My integrated fridge was under counter and carried the kitchen door but was between two 600 deep decorative panels. Those and the other decorative end panels were screwed to the side panels of the units. This allowed the units to sit off the wall a little and gave me the required air gap behind. In effect my units ended up 600 mm deep, the same as Wayne's.
I've also seen fridge freezer cabinets advertised that are 600 deep and it does mention about having 49mm clearance behind the appliance so I suspect your concerns are justified.
One of my neighbours fits a lot of kitchens so I will ask him what he does when I see him.

In reply to Post #3
It's not something I do for a living but I installed my own kitchen.
Just had a check and it seems the total depth of my integrated fridge including the door was about 565 so very similar to yours. My decorative panels either side are 600 mm deep so that gives an air gap of 35mm behind. My specified air gap was 200 square cms so multipy 3.5 x the width of 60 then that's 210 so over the spec.
Presumably you have similar sized decorative panels that keep the other cabinets off the wall a bit.

In reply to Post #1
Doesn't your 548mm measurement included the door thickness?
My end panels were 600 deep so that should leave 50 mm behind the fridge.

In reply to Post #1
What ever you use I have found it's always better to de- shine the hooklink. I tend to use wood ash but anything slightly abrasive would do. Grass, soil etc.
Re the line - frog hair copolymer or fluorocarbon work well as hook link, both are relatively supple.

In reply to Post #1
Presumably you would want a pump, uv and filter, so you will need an outlet to some sort of chamber housing the filter bits. Neatest way is probably site a submersible pump etc below ground, perhaps in a black water header tank. Also plan your water return and electric supply (RCD protected ) before starting your build. Don't forget taps to isolate things when servicing. PVC pressure pipe, fittings and taps from a horticultural supplier is normally much cheaper than from an aquatic or garden centre.

In reply to Post #1
Firstly sorry for your loss.
I would look at a stocks and shares isa as a start. Good tax free growth and add to it later. Fidelity has always done well for me but lots out there with various risks.
Premium bonds would be another tax free investment, normally not quite so good but still a reasonable tax free way to invest a larger amount.

In reply to Post #6
Quite easy to do as long as you do things in the right order.
Drive the tyre off the wheel centre (if it's not already loose) into the wheel centre well.
Start removing the tyre bead off the wheel centre adjacent to the valve, make sure the opposite side is in the wheel well, work all the way around.
Remove the tube, remove old tyre,
Fit one bead of new tyre over valve side of the wheel, fit tube
Lever / tap tyre over wheel rim starting opposite to valve, finish at valve. Be careful not to pinch tube.
As Armalite says some lub on the bead and wheel edge will help.

In reply to Post #21
Renewing slats on ornate metal bench ends is really easy and the end result looks great but if you are nervous about doing that then ready made teak furniture is not too expensive for what it is.

Teak has a higher durability rating than oak and is used when that durability is a prime requirement. It's widely used for boat decking or garden furniture but has many other uses that require a durable nature. The reason it's so good is that it contains a lot of natural oils that protect it from degradation when exposed to the weather. It will age for say 6 to 9 months, go grey then just sit there almost unchanged for decades. If you don't like the grey finish then you need to treat it before the aging occurs.
One caveat - Any reasonable quality teak furniture from a reputable manufacturer or supplier will be made from the heart wood which contains an abundance of those natural oils that give teak its renowned long life.
However teak sap wood especially from young trees contains very little oil so is only really suitable for indoor use. Thankfully garden furniture made from sap wood is very rare but that's the only thing I can think of to account for “ Teddybares” teak furniture only lasting 5 years. Sapwood is often a lighter colour but stains can mask this so beware of cheap imports and don't buy unseen.