I'm making some metalware for myself to get the form and function I want, and something has occurred to me....
Why do we use banksticks/buzz bars that are actually designed to twist?
While I'm questioning obvious design flaws, why do all the digging sticks have the same crap Tommy bar handle design that leaves a metal stud digging into your palm when you push it in?
Why do we use banksticks/buzz bars that are actually designed to twist?
While I'm questioning obvious design flaws, why do all the digging sticks have the same crap Tommy bar handle design that leaves a metal stud digging into your palm when you push it in?
In reply to Post #1
Because most “consultants” only care about the money in their pocket and are too scared to say it's crap if it's crap.
Because most “consultants” only care about the money in their pocket and are too scared to say it's crap if it's crap.
In reply to Post #1
Easy of manufacture and low cost would be the obvious answer.
So easy to weld the T handle to enable it to be pushed into the ground and turned without putting a dent in your palm. The same applies to a bank stick with a flat to stop it twisting.
I see a lot of poor design that is overpriced with a “must have carp name “on it.
Easy of manufacture and low cost would be the obvious answer.
So easy to weld the T handle to enable it to be pushed into the ground and turned without putting a dent in your palm. The same applies to a bank stick with a flat to stop it twisting.
I see a lot of poor design that is overpriced with a “must have carp name “on it.
In reply to Post #3
I've got an idea for a nice folding handle digging stick, but with a woodbutchers tool kit I'll probably just do some hardwood sleeves for my jag one to lose the lump. I was actually surprised to see that lazy design from jag tbh
Im going for square bar for the bank stick inners, and doing something similar to the mpe square connections to lose the threads at the junctions, I've just got to figure out how to broach the holes accurately. If I can mill the brass I'll use for fittings with a router it should be easy enough, just leaving 1.5mm ish in the corners to deal with
I did want to use titanium but it was ridiculously expensive for the small quantity and probably beyond my tools to machine
I've got an idea for a nice folding handle digging stick, but with a woodbutchers tool kit I'll probably just do some hardwood sleeves for my jag one to lose the lump. I was actually surprised to see that lazy design from jag tbh
Im going for square bar for the bank stick inners, and doing something similar to the mpe square connections to lose the threads at the junctions, I've just got to figure out how to broach the holes accurately. If I can mill the brass I'll use for fittings with a router it should be easy enough, just leaving 1.5mm ish in the corners to deal with
I did want to use titanium but it was ridiculously expensive for the small quantity and probably beyond my tools to machine
In reply to Post #4
What it could do with is the domed palm saver attached to it
I have the matrix one
What it could do with is the domed palm saver attached to it
I have the matrix one
In reply to Post #5
So it's profiteering, you have to buy an accessory to make it fit for purpose
So it's profiteering, you have to buy an accessory to make it fit for purpose
In reply to Post #6
No
The palm saver wont go into it unless you adapt it and then ditch the level which comes with the palm saver anyway
Ps the red palm save takes a 3/8 BS F' thread perfectly so it can be used on other sticks lol
No
The palm saver wont go into it unless you adapt it and then ditch the level which comes with the palm saver anyway
Ps the red palm save takes a 3/8 BS F' thread perfectly so it can be used on other sticks lol
Gardner used to a palm saver, think they called it a "Hammerhead" and it just inserted into top of bank stick. I still have mine in my bag.
I bought aluminium bank sticks for the river from Interlok or Karsten Engineering I think they are called. Superb quality and they have a milled groove so the inner can't twist at all, even when they are sliding up and down.
In reply to Post #9
That's a nice simple solution
Does it still use a thread for the buzz bar? That's the main twist point I want to do away with
That's a nice simple solution
Does it still use a thread for the buzz bar? That's the main twist point I want to do away with
In reply to Post #10
A nice system like a ratchet (socket set) would be great
A nice system like a ratchet (socket set) would be great
In reply to Post #10
Why does nobody use a push on snag bar with a key way to avoid twist. No need to tighten it up
Why does nobody use a push on snag bar with a key way to avoid twist. No need to tighten it up
In reply to Post #11
I like that idea, I wouldn't be able to work to the tight tolerances necessary to do it with my tools tho unfortunately.
The mpe system is the best I've come across, by the time I decided to buy it they'd stopped operating tho
I like that idea, I wouldn't be able to work to the tight tolerances necessary to do it with my tools tho unfortunately.
The mpe system is the best I've come across, by the time I decided to buy it they'd stopped operating tho
In reply to Post #4
Why not go for hex inners and use a hex rotary broach to machine the outer bore. Much easier than machining a square..
Why not go for hex inners and use a hex rotary broach to machine the outer bore. Much easier than machining a square..
In reply to Post #1
Something i have done for years is to mill two flats on the top of inner part of bankstick these take a 13mm spanner and enable me to nip the bankstick inner against the buzzbar with zero twist.
I replaced my thumb screws for the matrix ones which when i tighten by hand don't move, i do use a stabiliser to stop the outer bankstick moving.
If the ground is soft enough i still prefer a goalpost on 3 or 4 rod set ups
Something i have done for years is to mill two flats on the top of inner part of bankstick these take a 13mm spanner and enable me to nip the bankstick inner against the buzzbar with zero twist.
I replaced my thumb screws for the matrix ones which when i tighten by hand don't move, i do use a stabiliser to stop the outer bankstick moving.
If the ground is soft enough i still prefer a goalpost on 3 or 4 rod set ups