Does anyone make anchors to hold the pod to the ground? Really annoying when it keeps lifting up even when it's pushed into the ground.
Debating about selling it and buying the century carbon pod as you can at least push the bank sticks into the ground.
Debating about selling it and buying the century carbon pod as you can at least push the bank sticks into the ground.
In reply to Post #1
Think Solar sell one?
The only time I have had problems with my worldwide is when the tips are up in the air and it's windy, the round centre bar enables it to blow over and then turn over ditching the rods in the water
Para cord and a peg
Think Solar sell one?
The only time I have had problems with my worldwide is when the tips are up in the air and it's windy, the round centre bar enables it to blow over and then turn over ditching the rods in the water
Para cord and a peg
In reply to Post #1
i wasnt even aware of the century carbon stealth, looks a proper bit of kit that. Ive been trying to pursuade myself to take the plunge for the Solar P1 but liking the look of this century one
i wasnt even aware of the century carbon stealth, looks a proper bit of kit that. Ive been trying to pursuade myself to take the plunge for the Solar P1 but liking the look of this century one
In reply to Post #2
As much as i love my P1, a square spigot was a much needed update to stop that spin.
As much as i love my P1, a square spigot was a much needed update to stop that spin.
The P1 WW comes with anchor points front and back centre of pod, where the tag attaches too, or am I missing something? Small carabiner clip-cord- tent peg.
Edit
Edit
In reply to Post #5
I have a Solar A1 GT and the main bar connector has a threaded bolt with a spade end and hole . . .(I'm sure the P1 has the same?) I use a small length of bungee with a sprung stop lock and just loop this on to a bivvy peg and tension . . . .
I have a Solar A1 GT and the main bar connector has a threaded bolt with a spade end and hole . . .(I'm sure the P1 has the same?) I use a small length of bungee with a sprung stop lock and just loop this on to a bivvy peg and tension . . . .
In reply to Post #6
That's the one 👍
That's the one 👍
In reply to Post #4
Its not just a square spigot thats required to stop the spin (a square main bar like its predecessor the globetrotter would improve it )as the collet locking system which is garbage on the p1 main bar which will then spin, i dont under stand the praise this pod gets, i have one but to make mine far more solid and useable i made and fitted two more pins (each end section now discard the original centre pin) and obtained an extra centre bar, now with the twin central bar sytem it is far more stable.
I also made some uprights that reverted back to solars original design which have a 3/8bsf thread which will then take different drop in golapost converters which now enables me to use my 1/2" dia buzz bars which is a far more common size than solars
Its not just a square spigot thats required to stop the spin (a square main bar like its predecessor the globetrotter would improve it )as the collet locking system which is garbage on the p1 main bar which will then spin, i dont under stand the praise this pod gets, i have one but to make mine far more solid and useable i made and fitted two more pins (each end section now discard the original centre pin) and obtained an extra centre bar, now with the twin central bar sytem it is far more stable.
I also made some uprights that reverted back to solars original design which have a 3/8bsf thread which will then take different drop in golapost converters which now enables me to use my 1/2" dia buzz bars which is a far more common size than solars
In reply to Post #8
I'm not sure I agree with that. If your getting enough force being exerted on the pod to cause spin you can't blame the collet for allowing the front to spin and by making the pod rigid your just transferring the force, while it may take more the whole pod will go over at some point to which the only answer is anchoring it.
It's a bit like saying I anchor the front of the pod but the back still steps out...the energy has to go somewhere.
I'm not sure I agree with that. If your getting enough force being exerted on the pod to cause spin you can't blame the collet for allowing the front to spin and by making the pod rigid your just transferring the force, while it may take more the whole pod will go over at some point to which the only answer is anchoring it.
It's a bit like saying I anchor the front of the pod but the back still steps out...the energy has to go somewhere.
In reply to Post #5
I emailed Solar 3 years ago, they didnt seems bothered so on to EBay a small Caribbean clips and some DPM camo cord and stitched various lengths of cords together and peg them down. Even use elasticated paracord .
I emailed Solar 3 years ago, they didnt seems bothered so on to EBay a small Caribbean clips and some DPM camo cord and stitched various lengths of cords together and peg them down. Even use elasticated paracord .
In reply to Post #9
We will agree to disagree then but i have made it and proven it in use and not just an hypothesis. Mine now is far superior to the version solar released. The collet locking system is garbage you only have to look at the collet locking banksticks that solar made compared to a thumb screw locking bankstick, One is far more resistant to twist due to simple engineering.
We will agree to disagree then but i have made it and proven it in use and not just an hypothesis. Mine now is far superior to the version solar released. The collet locking system is garbage you only have to look at the collet locking banksticks that solar made compared to a thumb screw locking bankstick, One is far more resistant to twist due to simple engineering.
My solar ww has blown over at the front in the past anchoring it down both ends makes it rock solid
In reply to Post #8
Sorry, I also disagree with you.
I tighten the locking mechanism tightly by hand after making sure the pod is straight. I have never had it twist or pull out in use, and it is pretty much the only rod support I use unless I go back to single banksticks.
The only thing I can say is you didn't tighten it up enough!
Does anyone make anchors to hold the pod to the ground? Really annoying when it keeps lifting up even when it's pushed into the ground.
Debating about selling it and buying the century carbon pod as you can at least push the bank sticks into the ground.
You know those little tags at the back and front?
A cup hook in wooden stagings, bivvy peg in the ground and using a shoelace tie the loop to the cup hook or peg. Even a cup hook over bankstick in stagings works
You can also push the banksticks into the ground with the P1 or Worldwide
Sorry, I also disagree with you.
I tighten the locking mechanism tightly by hand after making sure the pod is straight. I have never had it twist or pull out in use, and it is pretty much the only rod support I use unless I go back to single banksticks.
The only thing I can say is you didn't tighten it up enough!
Does anyone make anchors to hold the pod to the ground? Really annoying when it keeps lifting up even when it's pushed into the ground.
Debating about selling it and buying the century carbon pod as you can at least push the bank sticks into the ground.
You know those little tags at the back and front?
A cup hook in wooden stagings, bivvy peg in the ground and using a shoelace tie the loop to the cup hook or peg. Even a cup hook over bankstick in stagings works
You can also push the banksticks into the ground with the P1 or Worldwide
Surely if you can get pegs into the ground to secure the pod, youd be better off with banksticks?
In reply to Post #8
NEVER had an issue with stability when anchored down even when I'm using the Euro extension.
NEVER had an issue with stability when anchored down even when I'm using the Euro extension.