This spring I spooled up some fresh line (syncro xt loaded 15lb) I've been using this line for probably 10 years and always spooled it up the same way.
I've been getting really bad line twist causing frap ups and having to walk the line out for every cast.
I saw some people saying that esp have changed synchro or something in the process of making it so put it down to that so this week I spooled up with GTHD as it's always well recommended.
I was really careful spooling up making sure it wasn't going on twisted and I'm 99% certain there was none or very very minimal twist. By getting a section of slack line and pushing it together it wasn't coiling up and looked nice and limp etc.
Got to the lake put a bare swivel lead on, done one 20/30yard cast then another 50/60yards to bed the line in then went to attach my leader and as soon as I took the lead of the line was spinning around like mad.
Put all 3 rods out, they did actually cast ok but once I reeled in to do a recast later on, wrapping one of the rods up the twist was so bad it had tangled itself and had to be cut off, after just 3 casts.
Today I went to a field and walked the whole spool out and reeled back in with nothing on the end to take the twist out, again I'm pretty confident it done the job, looked good didn't spring off the spool or coil up when pushed together.
I then put a bare lead on and chucked it up the field 30 yards, reeled in the line was again insanely twisted.
I'm literally pulling my hair out and cannot for the life of me figure out what could be wrong?
The rollers on all 3 reels are turning very freely and if rolled by hand continue to roll for several rotations by them self's so the bearings are good.
For reference the reels are shimano power aero 14,000 xtb (2018 model) that one owned from new
My mind makes me think the reels but no idea what else it could be if the rollers are free but again when walking lines out and reeling back in it sorts the twist so surely can't be the reels.
The only thing that's different this season compared to previous is I've changed rods but how can a rod cause line twist?
Really not sure what to do at this stage?
I've been getting really bad line twist causing frap ups and having to walk the line out for every cast.
I saw some people saying that esp have changed synchro or something in the process of making it so put it down to that so this week I spooled up with GTHD as it's always well recommended.
I was really careful spooling up making sure it wasn't going on twisted and I'm 99% certain there was none or very very minimal twist. By getting a section of slack line and pushing it together it wasn't coiling up and looked nice and limp etc.
Got to the lake put a bare swivel lead on, done one 20/30yard cast then another 50/60yards to bed the line in then went to attach my leader and as soon as I took the lead of the line was spinning around like mad.
Put all 3 rods out, they did actually cast ok but once I reeled in to do a recast later on, wrapping one of the rods up the twist was so bad it had tangled itself and had to be cut off, after just 3 casts.
Today I went to a field and walked the whole spool out and reeled back in with nothing on the end to take the twist out, again I'm pretty confident it done the job, looked good didn't spring off the spool or coil up when pushed together.
I then put a bare lead on and chucked it up the field 30 yards, reeled in the line was again insanely twisted.
I'm literally pulling my hair out and cannot for the life of me figure out what could be wrong?
The rollers on all 3 reels are turning very freely and if rolled by hand continue to roll for several rotations by them self's so the bearings are good.
For reference the reels are shimano power aero 14,000 xtb (2018 model) that one owned from new
My mind makes me think the reels but no idea what else it could be if the rollers are free but again when walking lines out and reeling back in it sorts the twist so surely can't be the reels.
The only thing that's different this season compared to previous is I've changed rods but how can a rod cause line twist?
Really not sure what to do at this stage?
In reply to Post #1
Show me a picture of the lead, and how it was attached.
I was shocked to see just how much a hex shaped lead on a lead clip was twisting up my mainline.
Show me a picture of the lead, and how it was attached.
I was shocked to see just how much a hex shaped lead on a lead clip was twisting up my mainline.
In reply to Post #2
I'm not sure how to posts pictures, but I've used different types of lead.
Today it was a distance swivel style lead tied directly to the main line with a tucked blood knot
The day I spooled up the bedding in first two casts were and textured swivel square pear tied with a tucked blood knot directly to the mainline and the third casts were using flat pears on a inline drop off style lead core leader (solid bag fishing)
I'm not sure how to posts pictures, but I've used different types of lead.
Today it was a distance swivel style lead tied directly to the main line with a tucked blood knot
The day I spooled up the bedding in first two casts were and textured swivel square pear tied with a tucked blood knot directly to the mainline and the third casts were using flat pears on a inline drop off style lead core leader (solid bag fishing)
In reply to Post #3
The distance lead shouldn't cause twist, unless the lead has been slightly bent out of shape.
The other two lead styles, square pear and flat pear, can easily spin.
The distance lead shouldn't cause twist, unless the lead has been slightly bent out of shape.
The other two lead styles, square pear and flat pear, can easily spin.
In reply to Post #4
Yeah I did think they could cause some twist. But been using them a long time before the issue. The twist really is extreme. After 3 casts the line was unusable, one rod I wrapped up to 17 wraps for a 4th cast the next day and on retiring the line as it went slack it tangled up so much I had to cut it all off.
I've been walking the line out before every cast and even after one cast it is coiling up and tangling together
Yeah I did think they could cause some twist. But been using them a long time before the issue. The twist really is extreme. After 3 casts the line was unusable, one rod I wrapped up to 17 wraps for a 4th cast the next day and on retiring the line as it went slack it tangled up so much I had to cut it all off.
I've been walking the line out before every cast and even after one cast it is coiling up and tangling together
In reply to Post #5
But yet if I walk the line out and reel in it seems fine it's just after a cast, which makes me think the reel is ok. I do get what you're saying with the leads but I can't see a square pear on a swivel causing this amount of twist from just one cast?
But yet if I walk the line out and reel in it seems fine it's just after a cast, which makes me think the reel is ok. I do get what you're saying with the leads but I can't see a square pear on a swivel causing this amount of twist from just one cast?
In reply to Post #6
It's certainly a weird situation.
Just one or two casts and it goes from nice and well behaved to being terrible.
No idea how it could go so bad so quickly???
It's certainly a weird situation.
Just one or two casts and it goes from nice and well behaved to being terrible.
No idea how it could go so bad so quickly???
In reply to Post #7
It's honestly baffling, and rather winding me up.
The only difference I can see between walking the line out and casting and retrieving is that on walking it out I'm putting the tension in the line with my hand/damp cloth between the line roller and the but eye and when reeling in the line roller is taking all of the tension. But I pulled on the line with a tight clutch to see what the roller was doing under heavy load and I pulled enough that I was fully stretching the line and the roller seemed to be working just fine.
I'm
Honestly at a loss as to what to do and at £1300 for a new set of reels isn't a route I want to go down, especially without actually knowing what the issue is
It's honestly baffling, and rather winding me up.
The only difference I can see between walking the line out and casting and retrieving is that on walking it out I'm putting the tension in the line with my hand/damp cloth between the line roller and the but eye and when reeling in the line roller is taking all of the tension. But I pulled on the line with a tight clutch to see what the roller was doing under heavy load and I pulled enough that I was fully stretching the line and the roller seemed to be working just fine.
I'm
Honestly at a loss as to what to do and at £1300 for a new set of reels isn't a route I want to go down, especially without actually knowing what the issue is
Hopefully this simplifies things - according to most users here, Synchro has changed and is now utter cack. Think the Loaded version was worse than the other version too. Find something else....
In reply to Post #8
Could try the lead doctor things? Or just respool. Pb control mono is good stuff or Gardner hydrotuff. Better still braid.
Could try the lead doctor things? Or just respool. Pb control mono is good stuff or Gardner hydrotuff. Better still braid.
In reply to Post #8
Why does a new set of reels have to be £1300? No need to be spending anything like that on carp reels
Why does a new set of reels have to be £1300? No need to be spending anything like that on carp reels
In reply to Post #11
To be honest I haven't even looked at the price of reels in the last 7/8 years, that was just what it would cost to replace the reels I have now with the today's model.
To be honest I haven't even looked at the price of reels in the last 7/8 years, that was just what it would cost to replace the reels I have now with the today's model.
In reply to Post #10
I have dug my spin doctor out the loft this morning funnily enough, worth a go
That is my plan I'll be spooling up with new line tomorrow.
Leaning towards that walking the line out is taking enough twist out to make me think it's all ok but there is still twist throughout the spool and as it's cast and the line goes slack it allows the twist to twist it's self up more? Not sure but hopefully another fresh set of like sorts my issues. Will see tomorrow
I have dug my spin doctor out the loft this morning funnily enough, worth a go
That is my plan I'll be spooling up with new line tomorrow.
Leaning towards that walking the line out is taking enough twist out to make me think it's all ok but there is still twist throughout the spool and as it's cast and the line goes slack it allows the twist to twist it's self up more? Not sure but hopefully another fresh set of like sorts my issues. Will see tomorrow
I have the synchro xt on my reels and finding similar issues but not quite as extreme as you're having, so looking for a mono with decent sinking qualities.
Of the pb control and gardner hydrotuff mentioned earlier in the thread would anyone prefer one over the other?
Of the pb control and gardner hydrotuff mentioned earlier in the thread would anyone prefer one over the other?
In reply to Post #1
Have long have you used your reels for? Have you used those reels in the past with no issues? if they have been fine in the past in more than likely something to do with the line, lead arrangement or spooling?
I once had a similar issue with a spool of terry eustace pro distance it appeared to go onto the line normal but one cast into the lake using my techs and it came back twisted as hell and hasn't happened to me before, i then tried putting the line of some penn affinity reels and the line did exactly the same so obviously the line.
The strange thing in your case is its happened on 2 different lines, esp is known for a bit of twist but the gthd doesn't appear to have the same twist, From memory when i used gthd i think i spooled it with the line coming off the spool anticlockwise rather than like most do it with the spool rotating, but it must be fine both ways as i hear few complaints about it
For what its worth i dont think a swivel on a lead actually swivels on the retrieve but i do think some leads/lead arrangements can put twist into a line.
Have long have you used your reels for? Have you used those reels in the past with no issues? if they have been fine in the past in more than likely something to do with the line, lead arrangement or spooling?
I once had a similar issue with a spool of terry eustace pro distance it appeared to go onto the line normal but one cast into the lake using my techs and it came back twisted as hell and hasn't happened to me before, i then tried putting the line of some penn affinity reels and the line did exactly the same so obviously the line.
The strange thing in your case is its happened on 2 different lines, esp is known for a bit of twist but the gthd doesn't appear to have the same twist, From memory when i used gthd i think i spooled it with the line coming off the spool anticlockwise rather than like most do it with the spool rotating, but it must be fine both ways as i hear few complaints about it
For what its worth i dont think a swivel on a lead actually swivels on the retrieve but i do think some leads/lead arrangements can put twist into a line.
In reply to Post #14
Hydrotuff is thick but incredibly strong. Pb control mono is prestretch so thinner for the BS. If you need to cast far or don't have much weed the PB over hydrotuff. It sinks really well and I never had any twist issues when using it.
Hydrotuff is thick but incredibly strong. Pb control mono is prestretch so thinner for the BS. If you need to cast far or don't have much weed the PB over hydrotuff. It sinks really well and I never had any twist issues when using it.
Cheers mate, will give the pb control a go 👍
I've recently experienced the same issue with my Power Aeros after loading with Gardner HD tapered leaders. Ridiculous amount of line twist when zig fishing I.e. a 10ft zig link was twisted up next to the lead on retrieve! I don't think it's the reels as they've been ok with different line, so I think it's the line and/or how I loaded it on to the reel in the first place. Anyhow, I've reversed the line onto some old basias and I'm going to try them this weekend to see if I can rule out the reels and narrow it down to the line.
In reply to Post #18
Do you mean the zig hooklink was twisted? or the mainline above the lead? zig hooklinks can sometimes spin on the retrieve and twist themselves up which isn't the reels or mainline fault .
apologies if i have read that wrong
Do you mean the zig hooklink was twisted? or the mainline above the lead? zig hooklinks can sometimes spin on the retrieve and twist themselves up which isn't the reels or mainline fault .
apologies if i have read that wrong
In reply to Post #18
Reels don't twist line. Copied my post from another thread...
Line twist is something we all must try and avoid. It's not the reel or the line that's at fault.
One reel is much the same as another and doesn't add to line twist.
Most line twist occurs when a reel is loaded with the spool not in the best position to spool up correctly.
The line coming off a baitrunner or drag will increase line twist, and also some lead shapes will make the lead spin when retrieved at speed and the swivel does nothing to reduce twist!
When I have noticed line twist I just unspin it, as follows...
If you are noticing significant line twist when you let your line go slack and it wants to coil around the rod tip, or when you reel in and let the lead dangle and you see it spinning then you need to remove it.
It is essential to keep the tension in the line when reeling in so most twist is compressed into the section of line between the rod tip and the lead.
I will remove the hooklength and give it a big cast into open water, then reel in and allow the lead to hang opposite the reel, and as I lift the rod to near vertical you can see the lead starts to spin. You must keep the tension in the line from tip to lead. Note which way the lead is spinning, this is the direction of spin to remove line twist.
Be sure to note which way your twist wants to unwind...
Rather than wait for ages for the lead to keep untwisting the line you can actually spin the lead yourself to speed things up.
When the lead no longer wants to spin in the "untwisting" direction you are not done, as you have only removed the twist in the section from rod tip to lead where the twist has been compressed. You now need to continue to spin the lead in the same direction a few more times.
This is putting counter twist into the line... it seems wrong, but all will even out in a minute.
You can then cast out a medium distance, but no massive chucks to prevent fraps from the added counter twist. Now let the line go semi slack, and the added counter twist will now counter any twist that was already in the line further out from the rod tip!
Reel in and let the lead dangle. Now there should be minimal twist or no twist.
If the lead still wants to spin in the "untwist" direction the repeat the above a couple more times, adding more counter twist.
When there is no more twist when you hang the lead i like to still add some more counter twist to help keep the line under control.
If you now reel in and the lead want to spin in opposite direction to "untwisting" then it means you have added a bit too much counter twist. This is no big problem as it will soon even itself out once you do a couple of big cast.
Try it... This does work 100%.
Reels don't twist line. Copied my post from another thread...
Line twist is something we all must try and avoid. It's not the reel or the line that's at fault.
One reel is much the same as another and doesn't add to line twist.
Most line twist occurs when a reel is loaded with the spool not in the best position to spool up correctly.
The line coming off a baitrunner or drag will increase line twist, and also some lead shapes will make the lead spin when retrieved at speed and the swivel does nothing to reduce twist!
When I have noticed line twist I just unspin it, as follows...
If you are noticing significant line twist when you let your line go slack and it wants to coil around the rod tip, or when you reel in and let the lead dangle and you see it spinning then you need to remove it.
It is essential to keep the tension in the line when reeling in so most twist is compressed into the section of line between the rod tip and the lead.
I will remove the hooklength and give it a big cast into open water, then reel in and allow the lead to hang opposite the reel, and as I lift the rod to near vertical you can see the lead starts to spin. You must keep the tension in the line from tip to lead. Note which way the lead is spinning, this is the direction of spin to remove line twist.
Be sure to note which way your twist wants to unwind...
Rather than wait for ages for the lead to keep untwisting the line you can actually spin the lead yourself to speed things up.
When the lead no longer wants to spin in the "untwisting" direction you are not done, as you have only removed the twist in the section from rod tip to lead where the twist has been compressed. You now need to continue to spin the lead in the same direction a few more times.
This is putting counter twist into the line... it seems wrong, but all will even out in a minute.
You can then cast out a medium distance, but no massive chucks to prevent fraps from the added counter twist. Now let the line go semi slack, and the added counter twist will now counter any twist that was already in the line further out from the rod tip!
Reel in and let the lead dangle. Now there should be minimal twist or no twist.
If the lead still wants to spin in the "untwist" direction the repeat the above a couple more times, adding more counter twist.
When there is no more twist when you hang the lead i like to still add some more counter twist to help keep the line under control.
If you now reel in and the lead want to spin in opposite direction to "untwisting" then it means you have added a bit too much counter twist. This is no big problem as it will soon even itself out once you do a couple of big cast.
Try it... This does work 100%.
In reply to Post #20
Yeah, I'm sure I spooled it incorrectly, but never experienced such bad line twist and spooled as I normally would. Thanks for the tips. Never used tapered mono line before either so that might have something to do with it.
Yeah, I'm sure I spooled it incorrectly, but never experienced such bad line twist and spooled as I normally would. Thanks for the tips. Never used tapered mono line before either so that might have something to do with it.
In reply to Post #21
Ridiculous amount of line twist when zig fishing I.e. a 10ft zig link was twisted up next to the lead on retrieve!
It was just your hooklenth that tangled, not uncommon with zigs.
It spins on the retrieve.
Ridiculous amount of line twist when zig fishing I.e. a 10ft zig link was twisted up next to the lead on retrieve!
It was just your hooklenth that tangled, not uncommon with zigs.
It spins on the retrieve.
In reply to Post #1
I think this issue is becoming more common because a lot of people now 'wrap up' around sticks.
I noticed this myself with this wrapping up lark, even using a lovely, well behaved line like CM90 started twisting up when limp off of the rod tip. Annoying!
End of each session, at home, I would cut off the rigs and walk the line out onto an open field and retrieve through a cheap square green sponge with a 50/50 mix of washing liquid and water squirted on it, in the smaller 40mm ring and tension it above the reel between thumb and forefinger.
I think this issue is becoming more common because a lot of people now 'wrap up' around sticks.
I noticed this myself with this wrapping up lark, even using a lovely, well behaved line like CM90 started twisting up when limp off of the rod tip. Annoying!
End of each session, at home, I would cut off the rigs and walk the line out onto an open field and retrieve through a cheap square green sponge with a 50/50 mix of washing liquid and water squirted on it, in the smaller 40mm ring and tension it above the reel between thumb and forefinger.
In reply to Post #23
I don't think the wrapping up is the issue.
When wrapping up any twist that is already in your line will become apparent if there is any slack.
I don't think the wrapping up is the issue.
When wrapping up any twist that is already in your line will become apparent if there is any slack.
If you want to remove twist just walk your line out. Or cast out a PVA bag full of stones into the water & reel in under tension between your fingers after it's melted.
Sometimes the simplest methods are the best.
Sometimes the simplest methods are the best.
In reply to Post #24
Wrapping up may not, but winding back off of the sticks can certainly add twist
Wrapping up may not, but winding back off of the sticks can certainly add twist
In reply to Post #26
Any winding in adds an element of twist, but once you cast out that 'should' then untwist, but thats inevitable and unavoidable...
The real elements that add twist are:
● Spooling onto reels incorrectly. This can vary due to the method used by the original manufacturer and the respooling by the tackle company. You need to wind on 20-30m then let the line go slack and check for twists. If twisting then reverse the spool direction or flip it over.
● Excessive use of baitrunner or reel drag. Periodic untwisting line using my counter-twist
method, or walking out, etc is needed for regular line management.
● Certain lead shapes can be prone to spinning on the retrieve. Once reeled in, hold the rod so the lead is level with the reel and see if the line wants to untwist. If it does then use my counter-twist method.
Any winding in adds an element of twist, but once you cast out that 'should' then untwist, but thats inevitable and unavoidable...
The real elements that add twist are:
● Spooling onto reels incorrectly. This can vary due to the method used by the original manufacturer and the respooling by the tackle company. You need to wind on 20-30m then let the line go slack and check for twists. If twisting then reverse the spool direction or flip it over.
● Excessive use of baitrunner or reel drag. Periodic untwisting line using my counter-twist
method, or walking out, etc is needed for regular line management.
● Certain lead shapes can be prone to spinning on the retrieve. Once reeled in, hold the rod so the lead is level with the reel and see if the line wants to untwist. If it does then use my counter-twist method.
To the OP, probably not a major thing but hidden away on the gardner website is the following advice:
*We recommend spooling up GT-Hd with the label facing upwards (line coming off anti-clockwise) and periodically checking for line twist for the best possible results.
LINKY POO™ https://gardnertackle.co.uk/product/gt-hd/
I use GTHD in 12lb with a bait boat and it's one of the best lines I have ever experienced for not suffering twist. I do think that the lower the BS / Diameter, the less the twist will be apparent though.
*We recommend spooling up GT-Hd with the label facing upwards (line coming off anti-clockwise) and periodically checking for line twist for the best possible results.
LINKY POO™ https://gardnertackle.co.uk/product/gt-hd/
I use GTHD in 12lb with a bait boat and it's one of the best lines I have ever experienced for not suffering twist. I do think that the lower the BS / Diameter, the less the twist will be apparent though.
In reply to Post #28
I'd avocate this too. I've always spooled GTHD with the label up and had no issues with twist at all. However, for some unknown reason, the last batch I put on with the spool on it's side, running on a bar. I've had so many problems with twist this time round. I'm about respool again and will be reverting back to their advice.
Ps. I've always used the 15lb
I'd avocate this too. I've always spooled GTHD with the label up and had no issues with twist at all. However, for some unknown reason, the last batch I put on with the spool on it's side, running on a bar. I've had so many problems with twist this time round. I'm about respool again and will be reverting back to their advice.
Ps. I've always used the 15lb
In reply to Post #29
I had so many line twist problems with Shimano Technium with that method I ended up replacing it with new Technium.
I used this method and it's been fine
LINKY POO™ https://youtu.be/gjbEy9xNWJk
I had so many line twist problems with Shimano Technium with that method I ended up replacing it with new Technium.
I used this method and it's been fine
LINKY POO™ https://youtu.be/gjbEy9xNWJk
In reply to Post #30
This is a mind ****. Rob's method is essentially what I've done this time round and the twist has been horrendous. Previously been doing the opposit with no issues.
In contradiction, when I used to work with fiber cabling, pulling cable off a drum Rob's way left no coils, pulling it off the side, it all coiled up
This is a mind ****. Rob's method is essentially what I've done this time round and the twist has been horrendous. Previously been doing the opposit with no issues.
In contradiction, when I used to work with fiber cabling, pulling cable off a drum Rob's way left no coils, pulling it off the side, it all coiled up
In reply to Post #31
Fiber cable is a bit more expensive than mono
Fiber cable is a bit more expensive than mono
All my lines get horrendous twist
I use Shimano Technium in 12 or 15
CM90 (that was awful for me)
Korda Touchdown
ESP Synchro Loaded
I read somewhere ages ago that the super slow oscillation adds twist and because I have Tech MgS (with super slow) I attributed it to that.
I loaded one spool with 18lb Korda Kontour at the weekend and walked it out down the field by the lake and pre-stretched it and then wound it back on through the grass.
I'm expecting it to be just as bad, but we'll see.
Adding this thread as a favourite and will keep checking to see what solutions you guys come up with
I use Shimano Technium in 12 or 15
CM90 (that was awful for me)
Korda Touchdown
ESP Synchro Loaded
I read somewhere ages ago that the super slow oscillation adds twist and because I have Tech MgS (with super slow) I attributed it to that.
I loaded one spool with 18lb Korda Kontour at the weekend and walked it out down the field by the lake and pre-stretched it and then wound it back on through the grass.
I'm expecting it to be just as bad, but we'll see.
Adding this thread as a favourite and will keep checking to see what solutions you guys come up with
In reply to Post #27
Having a spool face up or down has been the No.1 reason for line twist for me, it simply does not work and I've tried this quite a few times. This method imo leads to unbelievably horrendous line twist.
The best way I've found is to just put a backstick through the spool and just wind it onto the reel, the last 20 metres or so is then stretched by putting a loop in the end and pulling it under tension for 30s and then reeling in. Suppliers spool up the bulk spools this way so it just makes sense to put it on your reel in the same way. I've tried the soaking in a narrow plastic bin, I see no benefit from soaking of spinning it in water.
Yep, heard of all the other ways, spinning in a bucket face up or face down checking for twist etc... all of them a waste of time.
Having a spool face up or down has been the No.1 reason for line twist for me, it simply does not work and I've tried this quite a few times. This method imo leads to unbelievably horrendous line twist.
The best way I've found is to just put a backstick through the spool and just wind it onto the reel, the last 20 metres or so is then stretched by putting a loop in the end and pulling it under tension for 30s and then reeling in. Suppliers spool up the bulk spools this way so it just makes sense to put it on your reel in the same way.
I've tried the soaking in a narrow plastic bin, I see no benefit from soaking of spinning it in water.Yep, heard of all the other ways, spinning in a bucket face up or face down checking for twist etc... all of them a waste of time.
In reply to Post #34
Yes the narrow container is probably not that important but does slow things and adds a little friction. Having said that I didn't use one when I recently respooled some small general fishing reels
Yes the narrow container is probably not that important but does slow things and adds a little friction. Having said that I didn't use one when I recently respooled some small general fishing reels
My preferred method for GR60 15 lb .... Soak line in very warm water in basin with can of beans on top to keep submerged for approx twenty mins.Take out and give too wife who puts pencil through spool and is wearing oven gloves...Thread line through butt section of rod,making sure line comes off the spool from the bottom and tie onto reel spool with knot at bottom (SS3000) take a couple of turns of handle then stop and let line go slack while taking a step forward.?If line springs up and tries to tangle ,get wife to turn spool around ....Same again and the line should hang limp....Reel onto spool with wife applying tension to spool sides with a nice even pressure ....Works for me.....
Regards Tad.
Regards Tad.
In reply to Post #36
Exactly this, you are testing it for twist, then reversing the spool if needed.
Exactly as I have been saying...
To slavishly follow the tackle company advice is just trusting to luck.
Exactly this, you are testing it for twist, then reversing the spool if needed.
Exactly as I have been saying...
To slavishly follow the tackle company advice is just trusting to luck.
So, the lesson learnt today is that the way we used in the 70's and 80's is still the best method today...
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