New water and this one which is very shallow.
I've got no problem feeling the lead down on normal depths but never fished a really shallow water. Any tips from you guys to help? as not confident without feeling the bottom.
I've got no problem feeling the lead down on normal depths but never fished a really shallow water. Any tips from you guys to help? as not confident without feeling the bottom.
You cant, only confidence builder I can suggest is spend extended time leading about to be sure of substrate and use stiff rigs on heli set-ups.
In reply to Post #2
Of course you can - but there's a knack to it.
Of course you can - but there's a knack to it.
In reply to Post #1
If you can't feel the drop on a tight line your ether in weed or it's very shallow. I'd say anything under three feet you'd be lucky to feel anything. People do it diffrent ways and there's definitely no science to it. But I go with the 2 in 1 method. 2ft of drop for every second it takes to drop. As I mentioned very shallow water you ain't going to be able to count down on a tight line. By the time the line is tight and you lift the tod sightly it's on the deck.
If you can't feel the drop on a tight line your ether in weed or it's very shallow. I'd say anything under three feet you'd be lucky to feel anything. People do it diffrent ways and there's definitely no science to it. But I go with the 2 in 1 method. 2ft of drop for every second it takes to drop. As I mentioned very shallow water you ain't going to be able to count down on a tight line. By the time the line is tight and you lift the tod sightly it's on the deck.
In reply to Post #4
Yes I know the feeling of it being in weed, interesting there's differing views already.
Someone mentioned that dropping lead size to a small lead makes a difference?
Yes I know the feeling of it being in weed, interesting there's differing views already.
Someone mentioned that dropping lead size to a small lead makes a difference?
In reply to Post #1
really tricky is the simple answer, personally if under 3-4ft I think it's really hard (no pun intended!).
If you can lightly hit the clip and hit it just before the lead reaches the water that gives the best chance of line being tight to feel drop. But still won't get much indication.
really tricky is the simple answer, personally if under 3-4ft I think it's really hard (no pun intended!).
If you can lightly hit the clip and hit it just before the lead reaches the water that gives the best chance of line being tight to feel drop. But still won't get much indication.
have you tried casting past the spot, then reeling in until your lead is over it & letting it drop that way? assume you are using braid too?
In reply to Post #7
No I haven't tried that, yes I'm using braid on my leading rod and I can't feel it down with that so no chance with mono.
No I haven't tried that, yes I'm using braid on my leading rod and I can't feel it down with that so no chance with mono.
I much prefer to have a drag along the bottom to assess what going on than feeling for an imaginary donk.
The ONLY time you get a true donk is straight under the rod tip in margins or straight off a boat.
I use a marker rod, and when it feels good and I pull up to a weed bed or gully I then use my fishing rod to lead around it a bit.
I can also slip the spod out of the loop and pop a lead on for a better feel using the braid.
The ONLY time you get a true donk is straight under the rod tip in margins or straight off a boat.
I use a marker rod, and when it feels good and I pull up to a weed bed or gully I then use my fishing rod to lead around it a bit.
I can also slip the spod out of the loop and pop a lead on for a better feel using the braid.
Same issue on my syndicate, 3-5ft max, I drag a lead beforehand now, I haven't got the knack or patience needed, and I've tried.
Drop the lead size, it'll descend slower giving you that little more time to fix the line dead tight as it drops.
You need to hit the clip perfectly. If you over-gun it the spring back will not give you enough time to fix the line tight. If you under-gun it, again you've no time to tighten the line. You want the lead to enter the water perfectly on a tight line. Pop it out, hit the clip, lower the tip with the lead. You'll get the hang of it in no time.
Basically the knack is hit the clip so sweetly that there's no need to correct owt.
You need to hit the clip perfectly. If you over-gun it the spring back will not give you enough time to fix the line tight. If you under-gun it, again you've no time to tighten the line. You want the lead to enter the water perfectly on a tight line. Pop it out, hit the clip, lower the tip with the lead. You'll get the hang of it in no time.
Basically the knack is hit the clip so sweetly that there's no need to correct owt.
In reply to Post #4
The 2 in 1 method is dependant on lead size. A 4.5 sinks miles quicker than a 2.
The 2 in 1 method is dependant on lead size. A 4.5 sinks miles quicker than a 2.
In reply to Post #12
The science will tell you yes, But I've not really noticed that much difference. So I'll stick with the 2 in 1 method. I generally find I'm not that far out to be fair.
The science will tell you yes, But I've not really noticed that much difference. So I'll stick with the 2 in 1 method. I generally find I'm not that far out to be fair.
In reply to Post #3
Please enlighten me, with the speed of the lead hitting the water combined with a 3ft depth, that lead is hitting the deck in 1 second tops.
Please enlighten me, with the speed of the lead hitting the water combined with a 3ft depth, that lead is hitting the deck in 1 second tops.
In reply to Post #14
This is why it's so important to hit the clip just right, you have no time to correct any over/under-gunning on the cast.
This is why it's so important to hit the clip just right, you have no time to correct any over/under-gunning on the cast.
In reply to Post #14
Practice, trial and error, technique, light lead.
Practice, trial and error, technique, light lead.
In reply to Post #1
Theres a lot of pish & wind about 'feeling for a drop'.
Barely exists up north in our non gravelly lakes. I go same -if its shallow there's barely time for that lead hitting water for you to respond to feeling for a drop unless it cracks on something harder than clay/silt/muck. Using braid obviously helps as there's more transmitting back on the rod.
One thing there's short range spots that I cast underarm to - it actually gives you a bit more time to get ready for that lead hitting the surface and then feeling for the drop.
Theres a lot of pish & wind about 'feeling for a drop'.
Barely exists up north in our non gravelly lakes. I go same -if its shallow there's barely time for that lead hitting water for you to respond to feeling for a drop unless it cracks on something harder than clay/silt/muck. Using braid obviously helps as there's more transmitting back on the rod.
One thing there's short range spots that I cast underarm to - it actually gives you a bit more time to get ready for that lead hitting the surface and then feeling for the drop.
In reply to Post #17
Dunno mate. Just because the drop is less critical on the waters you fish doesn't make it pish & wind. I'm the same as @wac1977 in that if I don't know 100% that I'm on that spot, I aint confident. Down here in the Nene valley we have loads of gravel pits, most of them weedy as **** and in many cases the spots are tiny.
If I was banging it into thick silt on one of the big meres up your way then sure I'd be less bothered, but there are occasions on which that drop is absolutely critical imo.
Dunno mate. Just because the drop is less critical on the waters you fish doesn't make it pish & wind. I'm the same as @wac1977 in that if I don't know 100% that I'm on that spot, I aint confident. Down here in the Nene valley we have loads of gravel pits, most of them weedy as **** and in many cases the spots are tiny.
If I was banging it into thick silt on one of the big meres up your way then sure I'd be less bothered, but there are occasions on which that drop is absolutely critical imo.
In reply to Post #18
I fished a rather historic Nene Valley water a month or two back and had to spend a good deal of time raking spots from a boat as the weed cover was almost total, and fierce. Casting and getting a drop on the raked spot absolutely essential.
I fished a rather historic Nene Valley water a month or two back and had to spend a good deal of time raking spots from a boat as the weed cover was almost total, and fierce. Casting and getting a drop on the raked spot absolutely essential.
In reply to Post #18
Im up north and I'd still say it's critical simply as no drop at all = snarled up in weed.
Even on the siltiest lake you can steel feel a 'clean' drop.
OP: You can still feel a drop in shallow water, as others have said hit the clip just right and you should be ok, its all very quick mind. I actually like to set the clip a little further so that when I lift the tip I'm not pulling it miles off the spot.
Im up north and I'd still say it's critical simply as no drop at all = snarled up in weed.
Even on the siltiest lake you can steel feel a 'clean' drop.
OP: You can still feel a drop in shallow water, as others have said hit the clip just right and you should be ok, its all very quick mind. I actually like to set the clip a little further so that when I lift the tip I'm not pulling it miles off the spot.
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