Hi all. Do any of you know about the technique of casting out a large Beach casting float weighted to the bottom with the rod vertical and bait dangling from the elevated line. A guy is using this technique on the lake I'm at and is smashing it. He's too far away for me to ask.
In reply to Post #1
First did it in the late 70s have a look at some books or on net.
First did it in the late 70s have a look at some books or on net.
Banned on a lot of waters .
In reply to Post #1
It was a popular method in the 80's, from memory a lead tied on the mainline, a pike float sliding above it on the mainline with a stop knot/bead above it to set the float just overdepth. The hooklink was above the stop knot and it was set up so that your hookbait was just sitting on the surface with no line on the surface. Then the biggest bank stick or storm pole you could find with a V rod rest head, and an aerosol lid taped onto the bank stick to hold the rod butt. The reel foot rested in the V rod rest head.
As Jeff says, you'll find exact details on the net somewhere. There's also probably a more safer way of setting it up nowadays.
It was a popular method in the 80's, from memory a lead tied on the mainline, a pike float sliding above it on the mainline with a stop knot/bead above it to set the float just overdepth. The hooklink was above the stop knot and it was set up so that your hookbait was just sitting on the surface with no line on the surface. Then the biggest bank stick or storm pole you could find with a V rod rest head, and an aerosol lid taped onto the bank stick to hold the rod butt. The reel foot rested in the V rod rest head.
As Jeff says, you'll find exact details on the net somewhere. There's also probably a more safer way of setting it up nowadays.
As mentioned, banned on a lot of waters.
Here's a link to the Gardner Skyliner rest I used to use back in the 80's / 90's
https://gardnertackle.co.uk/product/skyliner-rod-rest/
Here's a link to the Gardner Skyliner rest I used to use back in the 80's / 90's
https://gardnertackle.co.uk/product/skyliner-rod-rest/
I can well remember a video by Des Taylor ,using Silstar reels using this method ,it may have been on a famous Midlands day ticket lake,tip of my tongue to remember the lakes name..
Anyway ,local folklore,or carplore suggests the method first gained nationwide popularity at Jennetts ressi in North Devon,where it was used to great effect..
Remember it very well...I just used a gardner suspender.....ahhhh,the good old.dayz..lol
(Cuttle mill)
Anyway ,local folklore,or carplore suggests the method first gained nationwide popularity at Jennetts ressi in North Devon,where it was used to great effect..
Remember it very well...I just used a gardner suspender.....ahhhh,the good old.dayz..lol
(Cuttle mill)
In reply to Post #3
Lots of terrible mouth damage due to fish being hooked anywhere around the mouth
Lots of terrible mouth damage due to fish being hooked anywhere around the mouth
In reply to Post #7
I caught stacks of carp on the beachcaster rig and never witnessed any more mouth damage than with any other rig. Like a lot of methods/rigs it was all about setting it up in a safe manner.
I caught stacks of carp on the beachcaster rig and never witnessed any more mouth damage than with any other rig. Like a lot of methods/rigs it was all about setting it up in a safe manner.
In reply to Post #8
Spot on 👍first shown to me by local pike angler Gordon burton,I used it to great effect .
Spot on 👍first shown to me by local pike angler Gordon burton,I used it to great effect .
In reply to Post #8
Used it through the 90s and 00s and used to empty places, no mouth damage, if you snapped off the fish ended up with an 8 inch rig and nothing else.
Banned on many places, like everything that's too good that the mini Hitlers couldn't make work for them, had one place ban it but when I asked what it was they didn't know...
Most places don't allow surface fishing at all around me now, or you're allowed to surface fish but no free bait, work that one out.
Used it through the 90s and 00s and used to empty places, no mouth damage, if you snapped off the fish ended up with an 8 inch rig and nothing else.
Banned on many places, like everything that's too good that the mini Hitlers couldn't make work for them, had one place ban it but when I asked what it was they didn't know...
Most places don't allow surface fishing at all around me now, or you're allowed to surface fish but no free bait, work that one out.
In reply to Post #1
Have a dedicated 2x rod set up exclusively for beachcaster floater fishing . . .great method - can ruin 'normal' surface fishing but I'm selfish lol . .
Have a dedicated 2x rod set up exclusively for beachcaster floater fishing . . .great method - can ruin 'normal' surface fishing but I'm selfish lol . .
Wasn't there a problem with the trailing lead in weed years ago doing mouth damage whilst playing fish
I guess you could loose the lead in such situations
I guess just fish open water, got bad name due to c£££s fishing it
I guess you could loose the lead in such situations
I guess just fish open water, got bad name due to c£££s fishing it
In reply to Post #1
I fished it a lot all over the uk, first shown to me at Cuttle mill,
The setup:
2.5 or 3 oz lead (gripper if clear bottom) on the end of mainline,
approx 1 1/2 times the depth 1st powergum stop knot, a 5 turn
grinner, there will be 2 tag ends, 1 will be parallel to the main line
and the other will stick out, on this 1st knot from the lead the stick
out part must be facing the rod, 2nd stop knot (3 or 5 inches up
must have the sticking out tag facing the lead, when casting
(more of a flick) the hook link will pass over the 1st knot and
stop at the 2nd, beads between all components especially
above the float to stop it getting stuck on the 1st stop knot.
If you take this info and some of the below comments I'm
sure you will get the hang of it, good luck.
I fished it a lot all over the uk, first shown to me at Cuttle mill,
The setup:
2.5 or 3 oz lead (gripper if clear bottom) on the end of mainline,
approx 1 1/2 times the depth 1st powergum stop knot, a 5 turn
grinner, there will be 2 tag ends, 1 will be parallel to the main line
and the other will stick out, on this 1st knot from the lead the stick
out part must be facing the rod, 2nd stop knot (3 or 5 inches up
must have the sticking out tag facing the lead, when casting
(more of a flick) the hook link will pass over the 1st knot and
stop at the 2nd, beads between all components especially
above the float to stop it getting stuck on the 1st stop knot.
If you take this info and some of the below comments I'm
sure you will get the hang of it, good luck.
In reply to Post #13
That's how i remember using it
That's how i remember using it
In reply to Post #14
Its one of those rigs....you know its setup right
but the fecking thing just don't do it correctly, the beauty of it is
there is so much slack line to take up on the take any reel can be used.
Its one of those rigs....you know its setup rightbut the fecking thing just don't do it correctly, the beauty of it is
there is so much slack line to take up on the take any reel can be used.
In reply to Post #13
Much easier method these days - in reverse order
3-4oz lead
Buffer Bead
50g Sliding Pike Float with short section of biro / stiff inline lead insert at each end - these sections must be 'bent' halfway and in opposite directions
Buffer Bead
QC ring swivel (size 8)
20lb Fluro hooklink circa 12" with suitable small mixa hook with either hair or baitband and tapered sleeve (tippexed white) to secure QC connection
Shimano TX2 3.25 TC rods / 8010 Baitrunners with 18lb Daiwa Sensor
Used to set pole elastic stop knots but these days I dont bother - the float set up acts like a polaris and is self locking when the line is taught and freerunning when slack. An updward lob cast and the running float finds its own depth (any depth without plumbing etc). The hooklink (effectively a helicopter rig) flies back up the line. A small (marble sized) mesh pva bag of freebies (usually riser pellets) knicked onto the hook stops the hooklink from flying back too far and once the float has settled and raised up high on a storm pole (with a gardner skyliner rest) the line is tightened, locking the float in place and raising the hooklink from the water (about 4-6ft from the float) until it is effectively suspended above the water with the hookbait itself 'dappling' in the water. The higher than usual diameter mainline creates a better 'washing line' and the stiff hooklink works better as it adds a bit of weight and means it can be micro adjusted on a loose clutch - it also stays in place in a mild breeze and 'bows' against any chop etc. The tippexed tapered sleeve makes it easier to see takes especially when the sun goes down however takes are normally savage and the tick of the baitrunner means most bites are self hooked. Once the float starts moving the slack line is quickly reeled in and the fish is connected. In the event of a mainline break its effectively a heli rig - everything slides off easily and the fish is left with a hooklink only . .
Usually fish two rods at staggered ranges and sporadically pult out small golf ball sized bags of mixer / riser mix. Bird life in general don't come anywhere near your hookbait as the lines in the air and suspended bait scare them off. On some lakes you do get the odd random suicidle coot or baby mallard come close but usually its a stress free method. If you get a take on one rod you simply turn the handle on the other 'raising' the hookbait out of the water until you land the fish - this can then be lowered back into place via the clutch instantly and your immediately fishing . . .
Lazy floater fishing and the fish cannot handle it most of the time - more recently I've been experimenting with a very short combi rig (braided end section albright to stiff fluro) to give a bit more movement at the mixer end - sometimes a tentative 'slurper' can gob the bait out on a fluro only set up and this helps with hooking ratio / cuter fish . .
Much easier method these days - in reverse order
3-4oz lead
Buffer Bead
50g Sliding Pike Float with short section of biro / stiff inline lead insert at each end - these sections must be 'bent' halfway and in opposite directions
Buffer Bead
QC ring swivel (size 8)
20lb Fluro hooklink circa 12" with suitable small mixa hook with either hair or baitband and tapered sleeve (tippexed white) to secure QC connection
Shimano TX2 3.25 TC rods / 8010 Baitrunners with 18lb Daiwa Sensor
Used to set pole elastic stop knots but these days I dont bother - the float set up acts like a polaris and is self locking when the line is taught and freerunning when slack. An updward lob cast and the running float finds its own depth (any depth without plumbing etc). The hooklink (effectively a helicopter rig) flies back up the line. A small (marble sized) mesh pva bag of freebies (usually riser pellets) knicked onto the hook stops the hooklink from flying back too far and once the float has settled and raised up high on a storm pole (with a gardner skyliner rest) the line is tightened, locking the float in place and raising the hooklink from the water (about 4-6ft from the float) until it is effectively suspended above the water with the hookbait itself 'dappling' in the water. The higher than usual diameter mainline creates a better 'washing line' and the stiff hooklink works better as it adds a bit of weight and means it can be micro adjusted on a loose clutch - it also stays in place in a mild breeze and 'bows' against any chop etc. The tippexed tapered sleeve makes it easier to see takes especially when the sun goes down however takes are normally savage and the tick of the baitrunner means most bites are self hooked. Once the float starts moving the slack line is quickly reeled in and the fish is connected. In the event of a mainline break its effectively a heli rig - everything slides off easily and the fish is left with a hooklink only . .
Usually fish two rods at staggered ranges and sporadically pult out small golf ball sized bags of mixer / riser mix. Bird life in general don't come anywhere near your hookbait as the lines in the air and suspended bait scare them off. On some lakes you do get the odd random suicidle coot or baby mallard come close but usually its a stress free method. If you get a take on one rod you simply turn the handle on the other 'raising' the hookbait out of the water until you land the fish - this can then be lowered back into place via the clutch instantly and your immediately fishing . . .
Lazy floater fishing and the fish cannot handle it most of the time - more recently I've been experimenting with a very short combi rig (braided end section albright to stiff fluro) to give a bit more movement at the mixer end - sometimes a tentative 'slurper' can gob the bait out on a fluro only set up and this helps with hooking ratio / cuter fish . .
In reply to Post #16
Scaring away the bird life seems to be the main appeal of this setup.
One of my local waters it's simple impossible to floater fish. Gulls patrolling constantly, even if youre just fishing a hookbait and no freebies you're lucky if it sits there more than 5 minutes, freebies are spotted in a minute, with the gulls then attracting over ducks and geese. Tried feeding them off the other day, 5 large loaves of bread demolished in minutes and still they werent satisfied.
Of course beachcasting is also banned on this water lol.
I might try a two rod setup using my spod/marker rod in a pseudo beachcasting setup with the spod line in the air and then using a second rod with a normal floater fishing setup under it.
Scaring away the bird life seems to be the main appeal of this setup.
One of my local waters it's simple impossible to floater fish. Gulls patrolling constantly, even if youre just fishing a hookbait and no freebies you're lucky if it sits there more than 5 minutes, freebies are spotted in a minute, with the gulls then attracting over ducks and geese. Tried feeding them off the other day, 5 large loaves of bread demolished in minutes and still they werent satisfied.
Of course beachcasting is also banned on this water lol.
I might try a two rod setup using my spod/marker rod in a pseudo beachcasting setup with the spod line in the air and then using a second rod with a normal floater fishing setup under it.
In reply to Post #17
Alternative on lakes like that is the spod/spomb copter - extends the time period a floating bait is 'fishing' until the wildfowl return to feast on the freebies after the intial spod splosh!
Alternative on lakes like that is the spod/spomb copter - extends the time period a floating bait is 'fishing' until the wildfowl return to feast on the freebies after the intial spod splosh!
hope these pics help with some of the descriptions.
all of these components can be changed to the way you want it to work, lead size, float, stop knots or none, hook link length etc.
all of these components can be changed to the way you want it to work, lead size, float, stop knots or none, hook link length etc.
In reply to Post #19
You should try gluing in the bent biro / inserts on your float David - makes life so much easier without having to faff with stop knots etc
I recently bought a job lot of the Korda Spare Flatliner inserts (not the rubber ones / the stiff plastic ones) that are now discontinued for this very purpose!
You should try gluing in the bent biro / inserts on your float David - makes life so much easier without having to faff with stop knots etc
I recently bought a job lot of the Korda Spare Flatliner inserts (not the rubber ones / the stiff plastic ones) that are now discontinued for this very purpose!
In reply to Post #18
Spod copter?
Spod copter?
In reply to Post #20
I know what you mean Chris but this version must be 40 years old, and you know I'm an old duffer and stuck in my ways, besides I don't use this type of rig much now.
EDIT
There was a time when I would cast out the float with no hook link, when the float was set I would clip the hook link on the line and let it slide down, sometime's it took so long to get where I wanted it the fish had moved on
.
I know what you mean Chris but this version must be 40 years old, and you know I'm an old duffer and stuck in my ways, besides I don't use this type of rig much now.
EDIT
There was a time when I would cast out the float with no hook link, when the float was set I would clip the hook link on the line and let it slide down, sometime's it took so long to get where I wanted it the fish had moved on
.
In reply to Post #21
Spod or spomb (with float) with long(ish) hooklink above as per a helicopter set up . . .crude but works and can buy more time in terms of scaring off wildfowl as they dont like the initial splosh - added benefit is you can get a bit of cloud / micro particles in to your floater mix - plus you can cast it further!
For 'normal' floater fishing I like the gardner flatliners and fish these helicopter style as they cast for miles and means you can use a long link - also easy to quick change and put on a spod/spomb just to mix it up occaisonally . . .
Spod or spomb (with float) with long(ish) hooklink above as per a helicopter set up . . .crude but works and can buy more time in terms of scaring off wildfowl as they dont like the initial splosh - added benefit is you can get a bit of cloud / micro particles in to your floater mix - plus you can cast it further!
For 'normal' floater fishing I like the gardner flatliners and fish these helicopter style as they cast for miles and means you can use a long link - also easy to quick change and put on a spod/spomb just to mix it up occaisonally . . .
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