I'm going to treat myself to some new rods, are custom made the best or should I just stick with shop bought ones? I've been looking at Century Stealth Graphene
In reply to Post #1
Custom wont be any better as such, but you can have the reel seat placed exactly where you want it, pick the rings, handle configuration, whipping colours, writing and any logos, flags etc. The finish will in most cases be better aswel. Depending on the spec, they dont actually come in much more expensive than off the shelf rods. But you do generally have a much longer wait time before you can get your hands on them
Custom wont be any better as such, but you can have the reel seat placed exactly where you want it, pick the rings, handle configuration, whipping colours, writing and any logos, flags etc. The finish will in most cases be better aswel. Depending on the spec, they dont actually come in much more expensive than off the shelf rods. But you do generally have a much longer wait time before you can get your hands on them
In reply to Post #1
If you go to a decent rod builder then yes most definitely,they will advise you on what's suitable for your own needs and build something to suit your fishing. Personally I'd go for Harrison over century, better blanks for less money imo
If you go to a decent rod builder then yes most definitely,they will advise you on what's suitable for your own needs and build something to suit your fishing. Personally I'd go for Harrison over century, better blanks for less money imo
In reply to Post #2
my mate Potty of CPR rebuilds is currently building sets of 3 rods with a 2/3 week turnaround and is flat out with orders/rebuilds, flipping good rod builder
my mate Potty of CPR rebuilds is currently building sets of 3 rods with a 2/3 week turnaround and is flat out with orders/rebuilds, flipping good rod builder
In reply to Post #4
Does he actually do rebuilds? My torrix have seen better days, and most builders wont touch rebuilds now. Not after anything flash, just rebuild with the same rings, and maybe a full shrink handle instead of abbreviated shrink as they are now
Does he actually do rebuilds? My torrix have seen better days, and most builders wont touch rebuilds now. Not after anything flash, just rebuild with the same rings, and maybe a full shrink handle instead of abbreviated shrink as they are now
For me. When I looked into there were so many questions that I didn't know the answer to that it seemed a futil exercise.
It occurred to me that I was only doing it because it couod be done and because I could afford it.
There was no specific reason. So in the end I didn't bother.
It occurred to me that I was only doing it because it couod be done and because I could afford it.
There was no specific reason. So in the end I didn't bother.
In reply to Post #4
sorry to hijack
I'm also looking for a rod builder who will do rebuilds if anyone knows of one
Ta
sorry to hijack
I'm also looking for a rod builder who will do rebuilds if anyone knows of one
Ta
In reply to Post #1
Yes and no, imo, I'd say it depends on:-
If you know what you want , that means knowing how the fittings you want will affect the blank, inc things like ring spacing.
And if the rod builder knows how to get the best from the blank you want for the type of fishing you do.
If it were just a personalisation re decals of the rod I wouldn't bother.
EDIT, Rod rebuilder, Colin did the rings on mine only
Custom Built Fishing Rods Click here
Yes and no, imo, I'd say it depends on:-
If you know what you want , that means knowing how the fittings you want will affect the blank, inc things like ring spacing.
And if the rod builder knows how to get the best from the blank you want for the type of fishing you do.
If it were just a personalisation re decals of the rod I wouldn't bother.
EDIT, Rod rebuilder, Colin did the rings on mine only
Custom Built Fishing Rods Click here
In reply to Post #1
Absolutely nothing wrong with factory built harrisons , they are all hand built , as said depends on what you require.
Absolutely nothing wrong with factory built harrisons , they are all hand built , as said depends on what you require.
Yeah I'd echo what's been said here. I've got factory centuries and I freely admit that because I don't know enough about rod building I might have just had stuff done for the sake of it or cos I thought it looked nice, which might have actually made the rod worse. At least with a factory if you are a bit of a numpty like me then I know the factory think it's a decent combo.
I didnt go silly with spec on mine, and they only cost me £15 a rod more than off the shelf. Even if its just for cosmetic purposes, having them made to my liking it was worth it. Built by kev clayton who used to build for harrisons. And i think the finish with custom rod builders is better than what the factories turn out. I wanted infinitys originally, but the build quality wasnt good enough for a rod of that price in my opinion
In reply to Post #1
They're no better in terms of the rod blank itself really.... it's more IMO about the customisation options, so different rings, seats, multiple options on the handles, rod decals etc.
I'd always go that route as I like to put together a rod based on my own spec, but I'm sure that the performance enhancement is largely negligible.
They're no better in terms of the rod blank itself really.... it's more IMO about the customisation options, so different rings, seats, multiple options on the handles, rod decals etc.
I'd always go that route as I like to put together a rod based on my own spec, but I'm sure that the performance enhancement is largely negligible.
In reply to Post #5
Yes mate, he's currently building a set of Atrex rods from cotswold angling then rebuilding a set of free spirits
Pm me for his details or find him on fb Chris Palmer
Yes mate, he's currently building a set of Atrex rods from cotswold angling then rebuilding a set of free spirits
Pm me for his details or find him on fb Chris Palmer
I guess there are two camps with custom rods. One camp who would like to have the best function from a blank and take the advice from an experienced builder based on performance, situation and budget. The other those who want to spend a bit more on having rods with sparkly seats and whipping that matches their bobbins.
Both equally valid if it makes them happy and often lower cost than the factory.
Both equally valid if it makes them happy and often lower cost than the factory.
A good custom rod should have a much better finish, especially the depth and quality of varnish.
Where as on Century factory rods the varnish on the whippings went white after a while when wet. I mention Century as they are the only off the shelf rods I have used in the past.
Mind you I am talking Mk 1 Armalites, so things might have changed!
Where as on Century factory rods the varnish on the whippings went white after a while when wet. I mention Century as they are the only off the shelf rods I have used in the past.
Mind you I am talking Mk 1 Armalites, so things might have changed!
In reply to Post #15
Nothing wrong with the finish on factory harrison rods and i expect century to be the same , the armalite mk 1 and 2 had seymo epoxy finish which went white looking at it , alot of quality finishes around nowadays.
Nothing wrong with the finish on factory harrison rods and i expect century to be the same , the armalite mk 1 and 2 had seymo epoxy finish which went white looking at it , alot of quality finishes around nowadays.
Hi Lee
I've never owned custom rods, but I've seen quite a few and had a play with some.
I did meet a rather knowledgeable guy who built fly fishing rods many years ago and his take on it was this:
Custom rods are largely about aesthetics and personal preference as 99% of custom rods are built on factory blanks.
But the great custom rod builders know how to rung a rod to an individual's personal preference and that as he said "is where the magic comes in"
Best
Jon
I've never owned custom rods, but I've seen quite a few and had a play with some.
I did meet a rather knowledgeable guy who built fly fishing rods many years ago and his take on it was this:
Custom rods are largely about aesthetics and personal preference as 99% of custom rods are built on factory blanks.
But the great custom rod builders know how to rung a rod to an individual's personal preference and that as he said "is where the magic comes in"
Best
Jon
In reply to Post #15
That is nothing to do with the manufacturer law changed regarding oil based finish. Most if not all lacquer now on rods or wood is water based that's why you get them white Mark's. Nearly all paint is now as well
That is nothing to do with the manufacturer law changed regarding oil based finish. Most if not all lacquer now on rods or wood is water based that's why you get them white Mark's. Nearly all paint is now as well
In reply to Post #18
Im afraid you are mis informed all the Main rod wrapping finishes are hi polymer resin based (dura gloss ls supreme etc, try cleaning your brush with water after using that , it also would,nt level very well if it was water based.The white marks are caused by moisture penetrating the whipping mainly due to epoxy curing toi fast i.e temps not correct whist epoxy drying or not mixing to the stated guide.
Im afraid you are mis informed all the Main rod wrapping finishes are hi polymer resin based (dura gloss ls supreme etc, try cleaning your brush with water after using that , it also would,nt level very well if it was water based.The white marks are caused by moisture penetrating the whipping mainly due to epoxy curing toi fast i.e temps not correct whist epoxy drying or not mixing to the stated guide.
In reply to Post #19
I've had this quite badly on my Harrison's, and to a lesser extent on my Century's. Would another coat of vranish, to reseal, prevent it?
I've had this quite badly on my Harrison's, and to a lesser extent on my Century's. Would another coat of vranish, to reseal, prevent it?
In reply to Post #20
In the old days it was varnish we used nowadays things are so much easier what you need to use is a hi polymer rod wrapping finish , I have used u-40 dura gloss ls supreme for the last 7 or 8 years another u-40 product before that its a 2 part finish you critically mix the resin compound with the hardener compound ( not to be confused with epoxy glue ) you would be surprised the amount of people that have used wrong products ! Its not the easiest thing to master but when you do the finish is fantastic. In answer to your question it depends how bad it is ? If its been letting water in then the thread will need re whipping and then coating twice whilst your rod is turning this dries it correctly and self levels if you know how to apply properly ! Its the area where a novice will come unstuck pardon the pun ! Thats why alot of people including myself will not undertake rebuilds , its alot of time and work fixing peoples **** ups ! Saying that i am doing more than i should at the moment ! Alot of the time a good car polish will get rid of the whitening if its not too bad.
In the old days it was varnish we used nowadays things are so much easier what you need to use is a hi polymer rod wrapping finish , I have used u-40 dura gloss ls supreme for the last 7 or 8 years another u-40 product before that its a 2 part finish you critically mix the resin compound with the hardener compound ( not to be confused with epoxy glue ) you would be surprised the amount of people that have used wrong products ! Its not the easiest thing to master but when you do the finish is fantastic. In answer to your question it depends how bad it is ? If its been letting water in then the thread will need re whipping and then coating twice whilst your rod is turning this dries it correctly and self levels if you know how to apply properly ! Its the area where a novice will come unstuck pardon the pun ! Thats why alot of people including myself will not undertake rebuilds , its alot of time and work fixing peoples **** ups ! Saying that i am doing more than i should at the moment ! Alot of the time a good car polish will get rid of the whitening if its not too bad.
In reply to Post #21
Thanks for the reply Jeffire. The whitening goes of it's own accord once dried out. I might try giving them a couple of coats of yacht varnish, can't remember having this in the 70's. I always thought the whitening was moisture getting into the resins, probably due to bad mixing or accelerated curing times. Unlaquered carbon car body parts can be affected by moisture in the resins, turns them a milky white and difficult to get rid of once affected.
Thanks for the reply Jeffire. The whitening goes of it's own accord once dried out. I might try giving them a couple of coats of yacht varnish, can't remember having this in the 70's. I always thought the whitening was moisture getting into the resins, probably due to bad mixing or accelerated curing times. Unlaquered carbon car body parts can be affected by moisture in the resins, turns them a milky white and difficult to get rid of once affected.
In reply to Post #22
Yes you are right it is mainly due to curing of the epoxy resin either wrong temp or as you say poor mixing which results in the whitening , this however leads to becoming brittle which is when moisture will start to penetrate the whipping , car polish will sort the problem you have i would think , as it does,nt sound too bad .
Yes you are right it is mainly due to curing of the epoxy resin either wrong temp or as you say poor mixing which results in the whitening , this however leads to becoming brittle which is when moisture will start to penetrate the whipping , car polish will sort the problem you have i would think , as it does,nt sound too bad .
In reply to Post #23
Thanks jeffire, the Harrisons are not far off 30 years old, I really should strip them right down and re-whip them with new rings. But, they're all still attached and in line so will probably keep putting it off.
Sorry to the OP for going off topic.
Thanks jeffire, the Harrisons are not far off 30 years old, I really should strip them right down and re-whip them with new rings. But, they're all still attached and in line so will probably keep putting it off.
Sorry to the OP for going off topic.
In reply to Post #22
my whippings were going white in the damp on my harrisons which i built in 1994, and although they slowly returned to black after a day or two, the resin was beginning to fracture/crack around the ring feet. CPR (chris palmer rebuilds) rebuilt everything and so far despite being submerged on several occasions, no whitening
my whippings were going white in the damp on my harrisons which i built in 1994, and although they slowly returned to black after a day or two, the resin was beginning to fracture/crack around the ring feet. CPR (chris palmer rebuilds) rebuilt everything and so far despite being submerged on several occasions, no whitening
In reply to Post #25
The quality of products around these days should ensure no whitening anymore , as i have said before seymo is the one to stay clear of it goes white just looking at it.
The quality of products around these days should ensure no whitening anymore , as i have said before seymo is the one to stay clear of it goes white just looking at it.
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