Looking for some tips for feature finding I've never really done it before due to fishing very small lakes.
Just cant figure out what to feel for. Wether its weed silt clay just cant wrap my head round it.
I've just joined a big club water and I'm planning on taking a marker rod & reel out for a few days here and there.
Any advice & tips welcome
Thanks fellas
Just cant figure out what to feel for. Wether its weed silt clay just cant wrap my head round it.
I've just joined a big club water and I'm planning on taking a marker rod & reel out for a few days here and there.
Any advice & tips welcome
Thanks fellas
In reply to Post #1
Braided Mainline is a must in my opinion.
Use a heavy lead.
A Marker Float Stem is useful when weed is present.
Braided Mainline is a must in my opinion.
Use a heavy lead.
A Marker Float Stem is useful when weed is present.
Feel for the drop so you know what you're landing on.
Not much of a "donk" could be landing in weed or silt.
A more firm donk could be cley or gravel.
On retrieval...
Weed: should feel like you're generally weeded up, it may start to get heavier / harder to reel in or stuck.
It may also go between weed beds so you may pull through the weed in to another bed.
If you do get stuck it could also be a snag of some kind.
Silt: a sluggish, weighty smooth feel when reeling in.
Cley : generally an easier retrieve
Gravel: very bumpy/tippy tappy on the rod tip.
Disclaimer: this is what I feel for but am open to other knowledge lol.
Not much of a "donk" could be landing in weed or silt.
A more firm donk could be cley or gravel.
On retrieval...
Weed: should feel like you're generally weeded up, it may start to get heavier / harder to reel in or stuck.
It may also go between weed beds so you may pull through the weed in to another bed.
If you do get stuck it could also be a snag of some kind.
Silt: a sluggish, weighty smooth feel when reeling in.
Cley : generally an easier retrieve
Gravel: very bumpy/tippy tappy on the rod tip.
Disclaimer: this is what I feel for but am open to other knowledge lol.
In reply to Post #3
Good advice from Scott there.
I'd recommend going in with a bare lead first, preferably a tournament shape. I personally feel a lot more when using something around the 4oz mark.
Once you've found something you're interested in, then you might stick a marker on.
If there's any amount of weed, a marker will simply get caked in it, rendering every cast a waste of time.
A tournament shaped lead can invariably be “struck” out of the weed with a flick of the rod tip.
I find it very difficult to spot find by using the stereotypical drag of the rod when the lakes weedy. Instead I prefer to hop it back by lifting the rod and feeling for the drop each time. Cast, feel it down, tighten up to the lead, flick the rod up and feel the lead back down. Repeat that all the way back.
This prevents simply dragging the lead into a ball of weed, feeling nothing and having to crank 20kg of weed in each chuck.
It's also a good way of locating the harder spots amongst silt that can be hard to distinguish when pulling a lead along.
Once you've found a drop or something interesting, then you can give it a drag about to investigate further.
Good advice from Scott there.
I'd recommend going in with a bare lead first, preferably a tournament shape. I personally feel a lot more when using something around the 4oz mark.
Once you've found something you're interested in, then you might stick a marker on.
If there's any amount of weed, a marker will simply get caked in it, rendering every cast a waste of time.
A tournament shaped lead can invariably be “struck” out of the weed with a flick of the rod tip.
I find it very difficult to spot find by using the stereotypical drag of the rod when the lakes weedy. Instead I prefer to hop it back by lifting the rod and feeling for the drop each time. Cast, feel it down, tighten up to the lead, flick the rod up and feel the lead back down. Repeat that all the way back.
This prevents simply dragging the lead into a ball of weed, feeling nothing and having to crank 20kg of weed in each chuck.
It's also a good way of locating the harder spots amongst silt that can be hard to distinguish when pulling a lead along.
Once you've found a drop or something interesting, then you can give it a drag about to investigate further.
I used to practice by casting up the shallow margins on a lake using a brightly coloured lead.Cast out and feel the lead down to see what i had landed on then go check to see if I was right.
In reply to Post #6
Ever marked the bottom of Lake Ontario?. Lol.
Ever marked the bottom of Lake Ontario?. Lol.
In reply to Post #1
I start with a bare lead and see whats happening, practice,
I start with a bare lead and see whats happening, practice,
In reply to Post #5
I've done that as well good advice for a novice. Just make sure the lakes quiet or you'll get lynched.
I've done that as well good advice for a novice. Just make sure the lakes quiet or you'll get lynched.
In reply to Post #1
Don't use a tournament lead, they cast well but dont work well on the deck. Get yourself a 4oz sea fishing cannonball lead.
Don't use a tournament lead, they cast well but dont work well on the deck. Get yourself a 4oz sea fishing cannonball lead.
Use a tournament or pear lead, you can free them from weed better than most other shapes.
With braid you get a really good feel, but to reduce tangles, without losing much feeling use a mono (Amnesia) shockleader of around 20feet. It also reduces miscasts and finger pain if you do slip on a cast.
A lead link is useful, especially in weed.
Dart flight floats can get caught in weed more than plain straight or rounded top marker floats. The more buoyant the float the more chance it has of reaching the surface, however, the bigger the float, the heavier lead you will need.
With braid you get a really good feel, but to reduce tangles, without losing much feeling use a mono (Amnesia) shockleader of around 20feet. It also reduces miscasts and finger pain if you do slip on a cast.
A lead link is useful, especially in weed.
Dart flight floats can get caught in weed more than plain straight or rounded top marker floats. The more buoyant the float the more chance it has of reaching the surface, however, the bigger the float, the heavier lead you will need.
In reply to Post #8
What a lake that is.
What a lake that is.
In reply to Post #12
Yep use a tournement lead because it comes free from weed better
The whole point of the type of lead you use is what it feeds back not how good it comes through weed, at some point all leads can get locked up.
Zip leads are the worst, they dont hold bottom on the retrieve by design.
Shock leaders on a marker set up are for nods, learn how to use the proper tools, funny how people post the amnesia bull these days, solely down to lack of ability and instant carpers.
MCF floats, take your pick, the best there is.
If your that bad at casting treat yourself to a four quid golf glove off ebay.
Yep use a tournement lead because it comes free from weed better
The whole point of the type of lead you use is what it feeds back not how good it comes through weed, at some point all leads can get locked up.Zip leads are the worst, they dont hold bottom on the retrieve by design.
Shock leaders on a marker set up are for nods, learn how to use the proper tools, funny how people post the amnesia bull these days, solely down to lack of ability and instant carpers.
MCF floats, take your pick, the best there is.
If your that bad at casting treat yourself to a four quid golf glove off ebay.
In reply to Post #14
Listen to you, I think you need to learn some manners.
I have been carp fishing since the 1980's.
Tournament and pear leads DO give positive feedback, and the shape means in weed they come free better than a grip type lead.
If your lead is not holding bottom, someone as knowledgeable as yourself should know you are reeling in too fast.
As for casting, I like my fingers, I also don't like tangles, run rings can stick on braid as it 'cuts' into them and Amnesia reduces that risk. I can cast a decent distance, well over a 100 metres, have been doing so since the 1990's.
So I'm not that bad at casting, but every now and again, EVERYONE slips a cast. Why should I wear a finger stall or golfing glove (which incidentally I could pick up free from work as I work at a golfing hotel), when I find them uncomfortable, and actually increases my miscasts as I lose the feel?
I have used various marker floats, and found the ESP marker floats better than almost every other brand. In fact in many cases, marker floats are not as good as pike floats.
Listen to you, I think you need to learn some manners.
I have been carp fishing since the 1980's.
Tournament and pear leads DO give positive feedback, and the shape means in weed they come free better than a grip type lead.
If your lead is not holding bottom, someone as knowledgeable as yourself should know you are reeling in too fast.
As for casting, I like my fingers, I also don't like tangles, run rings can stick on braid as it 'cuts' into them and Amnesia reduces that risk. I can cast a decent distance, well over a 100 metres, have been doing so since the 1990's.
So I'm not that bad at casting, but every now and again, EVERYONE slips a cast. Why should I wear a finger stall or golfing glove (which incidentally I could pick up free from work as I work at a golfing hotel), when I find them uncomfortable, and actually increases my miscasts as I lose the feel?
I have used various marker floats, and found the ESP marker floats better than almost every other brand. In fact in many cases, marker floats are not as good as pike floats.
In reply to Post #15
Thank you everyone mad how much you can learn within 24 hours I'll be practicing on the bank soon
Much appreciated
Ps not sure what you mean by learning manners I was rude in any way I asked a general question and certainly wasn't rude about it
Any thank you so much guys cheers
Happy angling
Thank you everyone mad how much you can learn within 24 hours I'll be practicing on the bank soon
Much appreciated
Ps not sure what you mean by learning manners I was rude in any way I asked a general question and certainly wasn't rude about it
Any thank you so much guys cheers
Happy angling
In reply to Post #16
Don't think it was directed at you, enjoy your angling by the way fishing on clays a good shout
Don't think it was directed at you, enjoy your angling by the way fishing on clays a good shout
In reply to Post #16
Definitely not aimed at you, look at the 'reply' post number😉
I think you'll see who it was directed towards.
I did mention reeling in slowly in the reply, it is amazing what you can find with a very slow retrieve. Small patches of gravel, silt or clay that feel different to the rest of the lakebed. You can even feel the lead drop down into carp dug holes at times, as well as straight drops off gravel bars or plateaus. With these the rod and line just goes slack.
On silt once the lead is free if it has 'plugged', it tends to glide back along the silt, whereas weed almost pulls back.
Gravel feels 'bouncy', the lead is constantly tapping on the retrieve along the lakebed. Clay can be sticky, then smooth, a steady retrieve once unplugged, but hitting it on the cast can feel a positive 'donk', sand the same, whereas silt you may not get the donk that you do on them or gravel.
Even different types of weed can feel different. Some types the lead will pull free easily, others it will jam, especially blanket weed
It really is practice to get the feel off your lakebed.
Definitely not aimed at you, look at the 'reply' post number😉
I think you'll see who it was directed towards.
I did mention reeling in slowly in the reply, it is amazing what you can find with a very slow retrieve. Small patches of gravel, silt or clay that feel different to the rest of the lakebed. You can even feel the lead drop down into carp dug holes at times, as well as straight drops off gravel bars or plateaus. With these the rod and line just goes slack.
On silt once the lead is free if it has 'plugged', it tends to glide back along the silt, whereas weed almost pulls back.
Gravel feels 'bouncy', the lead is constantly tapping on the retrieve along the lakebed. Clay can be sticky, then smooth, a steady retrieve once unplugged, but hitting it on the cast can feel a positive 'donk', sand the same, whereas silt you may not get the donk that you do on them or gravel.
Even different types of weed can feel different. Some types the lead will pull free easily, others it will jam, especially blanket weed
It really is practice to get the feel off your lakebed.
In reply to Post #18
Sorry mate my bad didnt see post reply number
Thanks for the help bud
Sorry mate my bad didnt see post reply number
Thanks for the help bud
In reply to Post #1
Personally I'd just gradually work my way round the lake with a marker float just to have an idea of the depths and what the bottom feels like, doesn't have to be every swim just a general map, write it all down.
If the marker is attached via a clip it can be removed and just the bare lead used if you think there is something there.
Post 3 is about right for the feeling, weed you will generally bring back with the marker / lead and as said it's better with braid mainline, heavy lead and stiffer rod.
The fish will generally show the areas they like, then it's a case of getting in there and having a feel around for what to put your baits on.
Personally I'd just gradually work my way round the lake with a marker float just to have an idea of the depths and what the bottom feels like, doesn't have to be every swim just a general map, write it all down.
If the marker is attached via a clip it can be removed and just the bare lead used if you think there is something there.
Post 3 is about right for the feeling, weed you will generally bring back with the marker / lead and as said it's better with braid mainline, heavy lead and stiffer rod.
The fish will generally show the areas they like, then it's a case of getting in there and having a feel around for what to put your baits on.
Evening all.
Looking at getting a rod that's good for feature finding. Any suggestions would be great. I've seen that heavier TC rods are better, and circa 3 oz leads.
Cheers all.
Looking at getting a rod that's good for feature finding. Any suggestions would be great. I've seen that heavier TC rods are better, and circa 3 oz leads.
Cheers all.
Adam Penning's, feature finding on Youtube is a goosd watch, lots of good advice.
In reply to Post #6
I do this with a leading rod, hold the braid in between thumb and index finger (Rod pointing at lead) and either pull/walk back a little if I've found something interesting,
A lot of people I've watched over the years using a marker setup pull back to quickly/rush.I'm sure they must miss spots.just my opinion.
I do this with a leading rod, hold the braid in between thumb and index finger (Rod pointing at lead) and either pull/walk back a little if I've found something interesting,
A lot of people I've watched over the years using a marker setup pull back to quickly/rush.I'm sure they must miss spots.just my opinion.
In reply to Post #22
Cheers mate. Excellent video, although £180 for a spod rod seems overkill!
Cheers mate. Excellent video, although £180 for a spod rod seems overkill!
In reply to Post #18
On weedy lakes or lakes with sporadic patches I want to know 'what' kind of weed I'm actually fishing in or over or around - on this basis switching to a grappler type lead and intentionally pulling in a load is useful - not only for checking the weed makeup itself (eg love onion weed / hate heavy canadian) but also what insects / molluscs / bugs live in it . . .
On weedy lakes or lakes with sporadic patches I want to know 'what' kind of weed I'm actually fishing in or over or around - on this basis switching to a grappler type lead and intentionally pulling in a load is useful - not only for checking the weed makeup itself (eg love onion weed / hate heavy canadian) but also what insects / molluscs / bugs live in it . . .
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