What upgrades can be made to reels?
Regardless of whether they are worth it financially. Just curious what upgrades can be made and what the effect of them is
I know you can upgrade the washers but what does that actually do? Only useful to an old reel or better than. Standard washers in a new reel?
Anything else?
Regardless of whether they are worth it financially. Just curious what upgrades can be made and what the effect of them is
I know you can upgrade the washers but what does that actually do? Only useful to an old reel or better than. Standard washers in a new reel?
Anything else?
In reply to Post #1
If you tell people what reels they are might give them a better to tell you what better upgrades can be done to that reel
If you tell people what reels they are might give them a better to tell you what better upgrades can be done to that reel
In reply to Post #1
The best upgrade MAYBE to sell them and buy better reels but that may depend on what reels you have.
The best upgrade MAYBE to sell them and buy better reels but that may depend on what reels you have.
In reply to Post #3
I was just talking in general. Was mainly out of curiosity what can be done to make top end reels better
I was just talking in general. Was mainly out of curiosity what can be done to make top end reels better
In reply to Post #1
New line clips to make inserting line easier.
Carbon washers can make the drag a lot smoother, but as I don't have top end reels I can't compare.
New worm drive shaft to improve line lay if required.
New spools with differing tapers (Weston Developments etc)
Re gearing ratio, if wanted.
Cosmetics, re spray, different handle knobs.
If you want it you can have it, beit for the betterment of the reel of just what you like 👍
New line clips to make inserting line easier.
Carbon washers can make the drag a lot smoother, but as I don't have top end reels I can't compare.
New worm drive shaft to improve line lay if required.
New spools with differing tapers (Weston Developments etc)
Re gearing ratio, if wanted.
Cosmetics, re spray, different handle knobs.
If you want it you can have it, beit for the betterment of the reel of just what you like 👍
In reply to Post #5
Do carbon washers also make the drag quicker or can you make it smoother without making it quicker?
Do carbon washers also make the drag quicker or can you make it smoother without making it quicker?
In reply to Post #6
Is there nothing to make them smoother?
Is there nothing to make them smoother?
In reply to Post #6
That depends on what washers are currently fitted to your reels, if they are felt washers then it will be made quicker if swapped with carbon if they are non compression washers whatever the material they wont quicken by just changing washers
That depends on what washers are currently fitted to your reels, if they are felt washers then it will be made quicker if swapped with carbon if they are non compression washers whatever the material they wont quicken by just changing washers
In reply to Post #1
I have a set of Emblem 5000xt black reels which I love, absolutely indestructible. I've upgraded the line clips, quick dragged them, and changed to carbon washers. Unless I felt I needed something to fish at extreme range, I don't think I'll ever change them now as I've made a great set of reels even better.
I have a set of Emblem 5000xt black reels which I love, absolutely indestructible. I've upgraded the line clips, quick dragged them, and changed to carbon washers. Unless I felt I needed something to fish at extreme range, I don't think I'll ever change them now as I've made a great set of reels even better.
In reply to Post #7
I've had very good results using molybdenum disulphide or graphite grease. Other reels might respond differently but I've ended up with a drag on my okuma that is virtually perfect.
I've had very good results using molybdenum disulphide or graphite grease. Other reels might respond differently but I've ended up with a drag on my okuma that is virtually perfect.
In reply to Post #6
Carbon just dissipates heat better, which is all well and good if you're fishing for gt or sailfish. They also don't compress like felt so reduce usable drag range.
Felt washers should only be lightly oiled, never greased.
Obvious upgrade is to fit sealed bearings in place of unsealed or shielded. I'm sure you could blow a small fortune on hybrid ceramic bearings or something and not really notice one iota of difference except for longevity.
Actually, replacing a line roller bearing with a bush can actually be an improvement if it's low quality.
Or having gears machined from brass or stainless... Which would be impressive, but completely pointless given the minimal pressure the drag and gearing ever really experience carp fishing.
Carbon just dissipates heat better, which is all well and good if you're fishing for gt or sailfish. They also don't compress like felt so reduce usable drag range.
Felt washers should only be lightly oiled, never greased.
Obvious upgrade is to fit sealed bearings in place of unsealed or shielded. I'm sure you could blow a small fortune on hybrid ceramic bearings or something and not really notice one iota of difference except for longevity.
Actually, replacing a line roller bearing with a bush can actually be an improvement if it's low quality.
Or having gears machined from brass or stainless... Which would be impressive, but completely pointless given the minimal pressure the drag and gearing ever really experience carp fishing.
I was wondering if the worm shaft/gearing on the Technium's would fit my Ultegra Ci4 reels to give them the same super slow oscillation that the Technium's have at a lower cost than replacing the reels. I know that you can get 3rd party worm shafts for the Daiwa SS/Tournament series reels which slow the oscillation speed down for improved line lay so was a thought I had regarding the Shimano's. I don't think there is a 3rd party worm shaft for the Shimano's (that I have seen anyway) so if it was possible it would have to be an original Technium part.
Anybody done this or know if possible?
Anybody done this or know if possible?
In reply to Post #11
So you can upgrade the bearings too but they just extend their life as opposed to ofefering a better feel/performance?
So you can upgrade the bearings too but they just extend their life as opposed to ofefering a better feel/performance?
In reply to Post #9
How did you upgrade the line clips?
How did you upgrade the line clips?
Hi Noj, you say in your post that felt washers should only be oiled not greased, is there a reason for this? Cheers
In reply to Post #15
Only ever so slightly oiled too. The drag is a brake, it needs to clamp down when required to stop a fish or keep from slippage during a cast but also allow line to be released smoothly under pressure. Nobody lubricates the brake discs or rims of a car, motorbike or bicycle.
Grease can make it sticky, attract and hold more crap, increase thickness of washer stack and can be problematic when hot. Carbon is fine to grease with the correct product
Only ever so slightly oiled too. The drag is a brake, it needs to clamp down when required to stop a fish or keep from slippage during a cast but also allow line to be released smoothly under pressure. Nobody lubricates the brake discs or rims of a car, motorbike or bicycle.
Grease can make it sticky, attract and hold more crap, increase thickness of washer stack and can be problematic when hot. Carbon is fine to grease with the correct product
In reply to Post #14
How did you upgrade the line clips?
Line friendly clips are available from several places, but I done my SS2600's & other peoples Tournies with Shimano round line clips, springs & e-clips. The SS2600's were easily done with an inch of 1mm sprung wire straightened out & pushed through the hole in the line clip to secure.
How did you upgrade the line clips?
Line friendly clips are available from several places, but I done my SS2600's & other peoples Tournies with Shimano round line clips, springs & e-clips. The SS2600's were easily done with an inch of 1mm sprung wire straightened out & pushed through the hole in the line clip to secure.
In reply to Post #14
I purchased some self fit ones, I think they're from south custom reels. I found I had to add some glue to them when fitting, but they work fine. 👍🏻👍🏻
I purchased some self fit ones, I think they're from south custom reels. I found I had to add some glue to them when fitting, but they work fine. 👍🏻👍🏻
In reply to Post #1
Depends on the reel, I looked at tarting up an ss2600 but the cost just didn't justify it so I purchased a better reel.
Depends on the reel, I looked at tarting up an ss2600 but the cost just didn't justify it so I purchased a better reel.
In reply to Post #4
I had my original iso serviced and upgrades added.
Better spool clicker
Bearing race in handle
Spool skirt stability improved.
Other than that nothing could be bettered.
I had my original iso serviced and upgrades added.
Better spool clicker
Bearing race in handle
Spool skirt stability improved.
Other than that nothing could be bettered.
In reply to Post #16
The drag is a brake,
Actually a Reels Drag is just the opposite, it's a "Clutch" Designed to slip when at a pre-determined level of rotary torque is reached, which is set by the adjustment Knob.
Wet or Dry Clutch? all depends on what material the Clutch Plates (Washers as called in Reels) are made of, Oil can destroy some Carbon ones.
Reel up grades: I've actually over the past few months been playing with a old Penn Multiplier I've re-engineered to work and cast under the Rod.
Everything works, winds in just as if a Fixed Spool Reel was fitted, only been using it for Spodding. The only issues I've had are lack of line clip, and the Braking system to slow the Spool down; it's an old Reel and relies on a knurled spring Loaded Cap adding braking pressure directly onto the Spools axle end.
Wonder if newer Multipliers would be better with Magnetic braking systems, would they be more suitable?
Good entertainment learning to use it thou.
The drag is a brake,
Actually a Reels Drag is just the opposite, it's a "Clutch" Designed to slip when at a pre-determined level of rotary torque is reached, which is set by the adjustment Knob.
Wet or Dry Clutch? all depends on what material the Clutch Plates (Washers as called in Reels) are made of, Oil can destroy some Carbon ones.
Reel up grades: I've actually over the past few months been playing with a old Penn Multiplier I've re-engineered to work and cast under the Rod.
Everything works, winds in just as if a Fixed Spool Reel was fitted, only been using it for Spodding. The only issues I've had are lack of line clip, and the Braking system to slow the Spool down; it's an old Reel and relies on a knurled spring Loaded Cap adding braking pressure directly onto the Spools axle end.
Wonder if newer Multipliers would be better with Magnetic braking systems, would they be more suitable?
Good entertainment learning to use it thou.
In reply to Post #21
A reel‘s clutch is part of the anti reverse system.
The drag doesn't affect the mechanical ‘driving' of the rotor, simplified it could be described as a clutch as it is designed to slip but so is a brake until it is locked.
A reel‘s clutch is part of the anti reverse system.
The drag doesn't affect the mechanical ‘driving' of the rotor, simplified it could be described as a clutch as it is designed to slip but so is a brake until it is locked.
In reply to Post #22
The Drag/Clutch in a reel is a safety feature, so the spool will “Slip” rather than snapping the line, that's all it is, a Bait Runner feature is a secondary Drag/Clutch that allows a 2nd setting to allow line to be released even more freely so resistance is not felt by the fish.
Does not matter where the Clutch is located in the dive as long as it allows the main spindle to the spooled line to slip if required.
The Anti-reverse be it via ratchet and Pawl mechanism or a One way drive Bearing is just that - to stop the movement of the whole gear chain in one direction. It's a totally different entity.
The Drag/Clutch in a reel is a safety feature, so the spool will “Slip” rather than snapping the line, that's all it is, a Bait Runner feature is a secondary Drag/Clutch that allows a 2nd setting to allow line to be released even more freely so resistance is not felt by the fish.
Does not matter where the Clutch is located in the dive as long as it allows the main spindle to the spooled line to slip if required.
The Anti-reverse be it via ratchet and Pawl mechanism or a One way drive Bearing is just that - to stop the movement of the whole gear chain in one direction. It's a totally different entity.
In reply to Post #23
I'm not disagreeing with you that the properties of a drag aren't similar or the same as a clutch, Keith. Albeit in reverse as it is decreasing momentum.
But the fact remains that if you were to order a replacement ‘clutch' without a parts diagram, you would receive a one way roller bearing, which helps initiate the mechanical drive when the handle is turned.
What about the brakes on a multiplier, which incrementally increase resistance in the same way a drag does?
I'll settle for secondary or deceleration clutch
I'm not disagreeing with you that the properties of a drag aren't similar or the same as a clutch, Keith. Albeit in reverse as it is decreasing momentum.
But the fact remains that if you were to order a replacement ‘clutch' without a parts diagram, you would receive a one way roller bearing, which helps initiate the mechanical drive when the handle is turned.
What about the brakes on a multiplier, which incrementally increase resistance in the same way a drag does?
I'll settle for secondary or deceleration clutch
In reply to Post #24
Perhaps a closer analogy to a drag rather than a straight forward brake or clutch would be the overload clutches found in engineering drive systems.
Very common in agriculture to limit the torque in the event of an overload or sudden stop scenario.
Slip clutch, overload clutch, torque limiter etc. All allow a fixed drive until a preset torque is reached then they release just like a reel drag.
Perhaps a closer analogy to a drag rather than a straight forward brake or clutch would be the overload clutches found in engineering drive systems.
Very common in agriculture to limit the torque in the event of an overload or sudden stop scenario.
Slip clutch, overload clutch, torque limiter etc. All allow a fixed drive until a preset torque is reached then they release just like a reel drag.
In reply to Post #25
Now you've opened a can of worms
Now you've opened a can of worms
In reply to Post #26
I've a set of emblem x that I've had upgraded with line clip quick drag slow oscillation wooden handles and a extra bearing which basically makes them in to a emblem z . If you ask me why I had it all done I couldn't tell you think it's this pandemic and Henri Weston's cider lol next project is me 6000t which will have slow oscilation all ready quick dragged and I c you can now get a new gear for the reverse on them that takes the a lot of the play out of them
I've a set of emblem x that I've had upgraded with line clip quick drag slow oscillation wooden handles and a extra bearing which basically makes them in to a emblem z . If you ask me why I had it all done I couldn't tell you think it's this pandemic and Henri Weston's cider lol next project is me 6000t which will have slow oscilation all ready quick dragged and I c you can now get a new gear for the reverse on them that takes the a lot of the play out of them
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