Hi all,
Have been bought a spod rod/reel pachage (https://johnsonrosstackle.co.uk/shimano-carp-rods/18942-shimano-tribal-tx-spod-rod-12ft-aerlex-combo.html) which I'll be using soon when I switch back to carp. Have never done any serious spoding, just a few mini spods with the third rod.
My question is whether the 30lb braid will be sufficient straight through or whether I should use a heavier braid/mono leader to prevent crack offs?
Thanks,
James.
Have been bought a spod rod/reel pachage (https://johnsonrosstackle.co.uk/shimano-carp-rods/18942-shimano-tribal-tx-spod-rod-12ft-aerlex-combo.html) which I'll be using soon when I switch back to carp. Have never done any serious spoding, just a few mini spods with the third rod.
My question is whether the 30lb braid will be sufficient straight through or whether I should use a heavier braid/mono leader to prevent crack offs?
Thanks,
James.
In reply to Post #1
Lighter braid on reel and a leader if going really far... depends how far your trying to cast.. 100yrds with a 40-50lb leader onto the 30lb there will be fine
Lighter braid on reel and a leader if going really far... depends how far your trying to cast.. 100yrds with a 40-50lb leader onto the 30lb there will be fine
I was having frap ups/crack offs when using a lighter braid (25lb) to a 50lb braided leader then changed to 50lb braid straight through and haven't suffered since and regularly fish 120 yards 
Michael
Michael
In reply to Post #3
I also use 50 straight through. Trouble free method imo.
I also use 50 straight through. Trouble free method imo.
I always used 12lb mono with a Fox tapered leader, worked fine for me!
i use 30lb braid for the first 10 yards or so and join the braid to 15 lb line for the rest not had a crack off using this method
30lb probably fine for a midi spomb but I would go 50lb straight through on a large spomb or use a leader.
I'll only be using it sub 100 yards for the moment at least. Sounds like it should be sufficient for this using midi spombs and alike.
Will have a go and pop a leader on if I suffer any breakages - no risk of me hitting anyone with a cracked off spomb where I fish.
Will have a go and pop a leader on if I suffer any breakages - no risk of me hitting anyone with a cracked off spomb where I fish.
In reply to Post #3
Had the same problem. Lost 45 quids worth of spomb in 48 hours
Had the same problem. Lost 45 quids worth of spomb in 48 hours
I use Gardner's Kinetic in 35lb for distances up to 115 yards no probs as long as it's wet.
What I have noticed recently though it that braid straight into the spoil has issues and the entire lot rotated around the spool. I have been advised to strip the braid and put 20 metres of line on first.
What I have noticed recently though it that braid straight into the spoil has issues and the entire lot rotated around the spool. I have been advised to strip the braid and put 20 metres of line on first.
I use Gardner's Kinetic in 35lb for distances up to 115 yards no probs as long as it's wet.
What I have noticed recently though it that braid straight into the spoil has issues and the entire lot rotated around the spool. I have been advised to strip the braid and put 20 metres of line on first.
What I have noticed recently though it that braid straight into the spoil has issues and the entire lot rotated around the spool. I have been advised to strip the braid and put 20 metres of line on first.
In reply to Post #1
Whatever you go for I suggest you look at an 8 carrier braid like Daiwa J x8, for spombing it casts better and is much better behaved than a 4 carrier like standard Whiplash, also doesn't seem to need the constant wetting. It's basically what the Korda Spod braid is.
Whatever you go for I suggest you look at an 8 carrier braid like Daiwa J x8, for spombing it casts better and is much better behaved than a 4 carrier like standard Whiplash, also doesn't seem to need the constant wetting. It's basically what the Korda Spod braid is.
In reply to Post #12
I've just started using this, casts great.
I've just started using this, casts great.
In reply to Post #13
In reply to Post #12
Am I right in thinking the 20lb is the same as the Korda one just cheaper as it comes in the same colours?
Am I right in thinking the 20lb is the same as the Korda one just cheaper as it comes in the same colours?
In reply to Post #15
I reckon yes
I reckon yes
In reply to Post #16
Looks like I'll be going for the Daiwa one then
Looks like I'll be going for the Daiwa one then
In reply to Post #12
What breaking strain would you recommend please ?
What breaking strain would you recommend please ?
In reply to Post #18
For reference the Korda stuff is 20lb 0.16 diameter, which is the same as the Daiwa J 20lb, but unless you are fishing long range you could always go a bit heavier like the 29lb version which is 0.20, with these you would definitely need a leader. Some people prefer to fish say a 50lb braid straight through, does cut down on distance slightly though.
For reference the Korda stuff is 20lb 0.16 diameter, which is the same as the Daiwa J 20lb, but unless you are fishing long range you could always go a bit heavier like the 29lb version which is 0.20, with these you would definitely need a leader. Some people prefer to fish say a 50lb braid straight through, does cut down on distance slightly though.
In reply to Post #19
Thank you
Thank you
In reply to Post #1
I fish 50lb straight through, was finding with lighter braid at long chucks it would suffer more wind knots and occassionally snap hitting the clip.
I fish 50lb straight through, was finding with lighter braid at long chucks it would suffer more wind knots and occassionally snap hitting the clip.
Has anyone tried the Daiwa J-braid x8 straight through in the higher breaking strains like 58lb / 0.28mm?
I've been using j braid in 0.16mm with a 50lb armakord leader but getting occasional frap ups and I'm thinking the 0.16 is just too thin and causing the issues.
I've been using j braid in 0.16mm with a 50lb armakord leader but getting occasional frap ups and I'm thinking the 0.16 is just too thin and causing the issues.
In reply to Post #1
The main think to consider is the weight of what your casting. If just using the middle size spomb for example, you will be fine using braid straight through. Unless your trying to launch it 150!
The main think to consider is the weight of what your casting. If just using the middle size spomb for example, you will be fine using braid straight through. Unless your trying to launch it 150!
In reply to Post #1
Dont need braid all the way through. 50lb braid shock leader and 10lb mono will give you all the distance you need
Dont need braid all the way through. 50lb braid shock leader and 10lb mono will give you all the distance you need
In reply to Post #24
I'm the same, I won't use braid for spodding, although I go with 15lb line and a 40/50lb leader, usually Drennan Greased Weasel in grey
I'm the same, I won't use braid for spodding, although I go with 15lb line and a 40/50lb leader, usually Drennan Greased Weasel in grey
In reply to Post #24
I've often heard of people doing this but I would imagine the stretch in the mono would mess with the accuracy - interested to hear your view, as I've been thinking about a set up that will give me more distance (100yds +)
I've often heard of people doing this but I would imagine the stretch in the mono would mess with the accuracy - interested to hear your view, as I've been thinking about a set up that will give me more distance (100yds +)
In reply to Post #26
A number of reasons with me:
1. I have had braid cut a groove in rings on a spod rod, the tip and butt rings. It happens on the retrieve with spods. It was Berkely Gorilla Braid 50lb and Spiderwire I think from memory.
The groove in the tip ring started to shave shockleaders potentially causing crack-offs.
This spod rod only lasted one season, although it was getting regular use on Ardleigh Reservoir.
2. There is no, or minimal, stretch in braid, so hitting the clip hard can cause the spod or Spomb to crack-off.
I would much rather not have to replace Spombs and spods at around £10 a time. Even if they do float, not usually into the margin where I can see or find it.
3. The stretch in mono is useful on hitting the clip, it prevents crack-offs. With a Spomb that opens on impact it goes around the spot it hits on the water, no problem with accuracy. With a spod near the marker you do have to give time to empty as it is not instant, so see number 4.
4. Braid, even wetted, can get wind (pronounce as whined) knots if it goes slack and sometimes through itself. I have had takes actually while spodding, and had to strike the rod. Sort the fish, go back to the spod rod and reel a bundle of washing in...
I am pretty good at unpicking knots, but some of those beat me, and another expense of new braid.
5. Some of my spodding or Spombing is at ranges over 100metres on Big Bertha and her DD's with a Shimano Aerlex and 15lb line and shockleader.
I can do this distance easily with a half loaded Large Spomb or a fully loaded medium Spomb, and my spods.
I have heard a few lakes banned braid for spodding, as well as insisting that spods and Spombs were fitted with floats.
A number of reasons with me:
1. I have had braid cut a groove in rings on a spod rod, the tip and butt rings. It happens on the retrieve with spods. It was Berkely Gorilla Braid 50lb and Spiderwire I think from memory.
The groove in the tip ring started to shave shockleaders potentially causing crack-offs.
This spod rod only lasted one season, although it was getting regular use on Ardleigh Reservoir.
2. There is no, or minimal, stretch in braid, so hitting the clip hard can cause the spod or Spomb to crack-off.
I would much rather not have to replace Spombs and spods at around £10 a time. Even if they do float, not usually into the margin where I can see or find it.
3. The stretch in mono is useful on hitting the clip, it prevents crack-offs. With a Spomb that opens on impact it goes around the spot it hits on the water, no problem with accuracy. With a spod near the marker you do have to give time to empty as it is not instant, so see number 4.
4. Braid, even wetted, can get wind (pronounce as whined) knots if it goes slack and sometimes through itself. I have had takes actually while spodding, and had to strike the rod. Sort the fish, go back to the spod rod and reel a bundle of washing in...
I am pretty good at unpicking knots, but some of those beat me, and another expense of new braid.
5. Some of my spodding or Spombing is at ranges over 100metres on Big Bertha and her DD's with a Shimano Aerlex and 15lb line and shockleader.
I can do this distance easily with a half loaded Large Spomb or a fully loaded medium Spomb, and my spods.
I have heard a few lakes banned braid for spodding, as well as insisting that spods and Spombs were fitted with floats.
In reply to Post #26
I also use mono for spodding.
I tried braid when I first started and had a lot of crack offs and birds nests. Granted this was probably due to inexperience and poor technique. Alongside carp fishing, I also do a lot of beach fishing, so I figured I'd do the same as that, 10lb mono and a 60lb shock leader. It's worked perfectly for me ever since so now I'm of the opinion, if it isn't broke, don't fix it!
My last trip, I was fishing tight to an island 110yds out and the mono worked perfectly clipped to the same as my other rods.
I also use mono for spodding.
I tried braid when I first started and had a lot of crack offs and birds nests. Granted this was probably due to inexperience and poor technique. Alongside carp fishing, I also do a lot of beach fishing, so I figured I'd do the same as that, 10lb mono and a 60lb shock leader. It's worked perfectly for me ever since so now I'm of the opinion, if it isn't broke, don't fix it!
My last trip, I was fishing tight to an island 110yds out and the mono worked perfectly clipped to the same as my other rods.
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