Had a new rad installed, previous one was too small, to balance the system I have to start at the one nearest the boiler and work to the last one, the valves on the supply side are open and the valve on the exit are adjusted so there is a 12c difference between the 2 valves, now for the expert advise, should the valves on the exit side be closed while I adjust the 1st then the 2nd etc and then opened when I make the adjustment, hope this all makes sense.
In reply to Post #1
This is how I would do it. Leave all valves fully open.
Start at the boiler nearest to the radiator and turn the return (exit) valve down to the required temperature.
Go to the next radiator and do the same and so on.
If you want to be technical you want to adjust so your return (exit) end of the radiator to be 11 degrees Centigrade lower then the flow (in) end. There are videos on youtube about this.
This is how I would do it. Leave all valves fully open.
Start at the boiler nearest to the radiator and turn the return (exit) valve down to the required temperature.
Go to the next radiator and do the same and so on.
If you want to be technical you want to adjust so your return (exit) end of the radiator to be 11 degrees Centigrade lower then the flow (in) end. There are videos on youtube about this.
In reply to Post #2
Thanks Bob, I wasn't sure about the return valves, it can be time consuming though.
Thanks Bob, I wasn't sure about the return valves, it can be time consuming though.
In reply to Post #3
Yes that's why I keep putting doing mine off.
Yes that's why I keep putting doing mine off.
In reply to Post #4
It takes a little time over a number of days in reality if you want to be exact with 11 degrees drop ( based on 82 degrees flow give the BTU / Kw output of rad)
I would work from fully open on furthest and 1/4 turn open on nearest to start and see how temps feel.
I wouldn't get to hung up on 11 degrees rad drop as summer is nearly here so you have lots of time
Flow valve / TRV (Inlet) fully open and regulate on lockshield (return) valve
It takes a little time over a number of days in reality if you want to be exact with 11 degrees drop ( based on 82 degrees flow give the BTU / Kw output of rad)
I would work from fully open on furthest and 1/4 turn open on nearest to start and see how temps feel.
I wouldn't get to hung up on 11 degrees rad drop as summer is nearly here so you have lots of time
Flow valve / TRV (Inlet) fully open and regulate on lockshield (return) valve
In reply to Post #5
I get a lot of help from gas safe neighbour.
I was talking to him about the government advice to set the radiator flow temperature to 60C at the boiler to save money.
He wasn't convinced saying it would just take longer to get the house up to the required temperature.
What are your thoughts?
I get a lot of help from gas safe neighbour.
I was talking to him about the government advice to set the radiator flow temperature to 60C at the boiler to save money.
He wasn't convinced saying it would just take longer to get the house up to the required temperature.
What are your thoughts?
In reply to Post #6
What temp did he recommend?
What temp did he recommend?
In reply to Post #1
I put a thermometer in every room and adjusted trv's to suit.
I put a thermometer in every room and adjusted trv's to suit.
In reply to Post #8
that sounds like a much easier way, what i didn't say was....the new rad is more than twice the size needed for the room, the BTU's for the room is calculated at = 5184. the rad is 10,922 BTU.
Its either a furnace or a fridge, the rad will have to be changed for a smaller
er one.
that sounds like a much easier way, what i didn't say was....the new rad is more than twice the size needed for the room, the BTU's for the room is calculated at = 5184. the rad is 10,922 BTU.
Its either a furnace or a fridge, the rad will have to be changed for a smaller
er one.
In reply to Post #9
Sounds like you haven't TVRs (Thermostatic rad valves) fitted which would enable you to turn the temperature down in each individual room.
If you aren't familiar with them they cut the flow through each rad when the desired room temperature is more or less reached. Fitting them would avoid the furnace or fridge scenario and and as bonus you can also drop the temperature in any temporarily unused room. Well worth having even if to only save energy.
If you fitted them to several rads you must leave at least one path for the water open (towel rails perhaps) otherwise you could have a situation where you have no flow in your main system.
Sounds like you haven't TVRs (Thermostatic rad valves) fitted which would enable you to turn the temperature down in each individual room.
If you aren't familiar with them they cut the flow through each rad when the desired room temperature is more or less reached. Fitting them would avoid the furnace or fridge scenario and and as bonus you can also drop the temperature in any temporarily unused room. Well worth having even if to only save energy.
If you fitted them to several rads you must leave at least one path for the water open (towel rails perhaps) otherwise you could have a situation where you have no flow in your main system.
In reply to Post #6
Setting the boiler at 60 flow is fine as long as the rads are big enough to give the output.
Obvioulsy a lower running temp on the boiler will make it more effective ie condensing boilers.
The misnoma about condensing boilers is that are the be all and end all of heating, in condense temp they are perfect for underfloor heating as that wouldn't run over 40 degrees flow for obvious reasons.
Dew point of flue gas is generally taken at 55 degrees.
I would always say fit the biggest rad you can i.e. double panel double convector, as you can always turn it down.
Back to longer to heat the house, that may be the case but depends how hot you want it. the (old school now) BTU to raise a fixed volume of air by 1 degree is not linear, its a bit like drag the higher the temp the more heat input to raise each degree.
I cannot remember the formula but
up to 16 degrees is a point
then 16 to about 18 and
then 18 to 21,
its all along the lines of factories at 16ish and offices/schools etc 18 degrees at start time these calcs all came out of the 1970's fuel crisis in relation to heating goverment establishments if i remember correctly
My boiler is on 65 flow which seems to be okay but I will be updating rads and yes i will fit the biggest output i can.
Hope that helps
Setting the boiler at 60 flow is fine as long as the rads are big enough to give the output.
Obvioulsy a lower running temp on the boiler will make it more effective ie condensing boilers.
The misnoma about condensing boilers is that are the be all and end all of heating, in condense temp they are perfect for underfloor heating as that wouldn't run over 40 degrees flow for obvious reasons.
Dew point of flue gas is generally taken at 55 degrees.
I would always say fit the biggest rad you can i.e. double panel double convector, as you can always turn it down.
Back to longer to heat the house, that may be the case but depends how hot you want it. the (old school now) BTU to raise a fixed volume of air by 1 degree is not linear, its a bit like drag the higher the temp the more heat input to raise each degree.
I cannot remember the formula but
up to 16 degrees is a point
then 16 to about 18 and
then 18 to 21,
its all along the lines of factories at 16ish and offices/schools etc 18 degrees at start time these calcs all came out of the 1970's fuel crisis in relation to heating goverment establishments if i remember correctly
My boiler is on 65 flow which seems to be okay but I will be updating rads and yes i will fit the biggest output i can.
Hope that helps
In reply to Post #9
That's why I did it that way lol
Accurate measurement for that room then
That's why I did it that way lol
Accurate measurement for that room then
In reply to Post #11
Blimey Martin I bet you have forgotten more than I will ever know
I had so much buggering about room to room then waiting for it to settle
In the end I turned all the return valves open full then back 1/4 of a turn set the TRV's to the desired temp for that room, stone me it seems to be working now, Thank you all for your help and advise, maybe thats that
Blimey Martin I bet you have forgotten more than I will ever know
I had so much buggering about room to room then waiting for it to settle
In the end I turned all the return valves open full then back 1/4 of a turn set the TRV's to the desired temp for that room, stone me it seems to be working now, Thank you all for your help and advise, maybe thats that
In reply to Post #11
You know your stuff
I'll might try experimenting my flow 65c at some point.
You know your stuff
I'll might try experimenting my flow 65c at some point.
In reply to Post #14
This thread is like another language to me.
I've got one of those little keys to bleed the radiator and I know that the wife likes them all on number 5 while I'm happy to turn them to 1
Hope that helps
This thread is like another language to me.
I've got one of those little keys to bleed the radiator and I know that the wife likes them all on number 5 while I'm happy to turn them to 1
Hope that helps
In reply to Post #14
Ours is set on 65, that said the heating generally gets switched off in May till September or October.
The state of your rads and pipework plays a part too.
Ours is set on 65, that said the heating generally gets switched off in May till September or October.
The state of your rads and pipework plays a part too.
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