Any suggestions for the best material for multi rig?. I'm assuming a coated braid is best?
A material for size 4-6 hooks and a lighter material for size 8-10 hooks (smaller eyes?) .
Something that will hold the "D" loop without the need for addition of tubing and something that will hold a slight curve.
A material for size 4-6 hooks and a lighter material for size 8-10 hooks (smaller eyes?) .
Something that will hold the "D" loop without the need for addition of tubing and something that will hold a slight curve.
In reply to Post #1
Rigmarole Hydrolink been using it for years never had it slip once,I use the 25lb for size 4 muggas but for smaller hooks you may need to go the lighter version.
Rigmarole Hydrolink been using it for years never had it slip once,I use the 25lb for size 4 muggas but for smaller hooks you may need to go the lighter version.
In reply to Post #1
Atomic Jel-e-Wyre for me.
Atomic Jel-e-Wyre for me.
In reply to Post #3
Can second this been using jell-e wire for afew months now and been spot on.
Can second this been using jell-e wire for afew months now and been spot on.
In reply to Post #1
It has to be coated to work properly yes, the thinking anglers tungskin is my choice for the multi
It has to be coated to work properly yes, the thinking anglers tungskin is my choice for the multi
Thanks folks. I have some Jel-E-Wire so Wii give that ago 👍
In reply to Post #1
I used coated braid n trap I cannot stop the d from collapsing I bought some korda ready mades
And they collapse had to use some tubing to hold d in place
People rave about this rig on YouTube and use it without tubing I must be doing something wrong
I used coated braid n trap I cannot stop the d from collapsing I bought some korda ready mades
And they collapse had to use some tubing to hold d in place
People rave about this rig on YouTube and use it without tubing I must be doing something wrong
In reply to Post #7
What do you mean by collapsing?
What do you mean by collapsing?
In reply to Post #8
I Think he means the "D" loop through the hook eye and over the hook shank, probably moving on impact casting in, or winding back in.
I Think he means the "D" loop through the hook eye and over the hook shank, probably moving on impact casting in, or winding back in.
In reply to Post #9
Yeah ,just seems an odd word to describe that happening
Yeah ,just seems an odd word to describe that happening
In reply to Post #10
Agree with you. Wording is a bit odd.
In any case put a hook bead on to trap the loop behind. That's what I've done for years now.
Agree with you. Wording is a bit odd.
In any case put a hook bead on to trap the loop behind. That's what I've done for years now.
In reply to Post #1
I've been ESP Two Tone Strip Teaze and Kryston Mantis. Both are original versions as I bought loads when they first came out. I think Jel-E Wyre is a good suggestion.
I've been ESP Two Tone Strip Teaze and Kryston Mantis. Both are original versions as I bought loads when they first came out. I think Jel-E Wyre is a good suggestion.
In reply to Post #11
I've never needed to add anything, if tied properly it won't ever slip
I've never needed to add anything, if tied properly it won't ever slip
In reply to Post #13
I'm also not sure exactly what is meant by collapsing, but the loop sliding and getting smaller happens every time you catch/play a fish.
If by collapsing he means that the loop doesn't stand proud off the back of the shank, that happens when the coating breaks/wears off.
I like and use ESP Tungsten coated/loaded.
I've found the coating easier to work with than the Korda N-Trap.
It goes through a size 4 Krank hook OK coated, size 6 is very tight.
That ESP chap done a video on it once, and he uses a small piece of silicon to go over the eye, I will try to find the video.
I often use a trimmed 'kicker', but sometimes nothing at all...depends how lazy I am feeling
I'm also not sure exactly what is meant by collapsing, but the loop sliding and getting smaller happens every time you catch/play a fish.
If by collapsing he means that the loop doesn't stand proud off the back of the shank, that happens when the coating breaks/wears off.
I like and use ESP Tungsten coated/loaded.
I've found the coating easier to work with than the Korda N-Trap.
It goes through a size 4 Krank hook OK coated, size 6 is very tight.
That ESP chap done a video on it once, and he uses a small piece of silicon to go over the eye, I will try to find the video.
I often use a trimmed 'kicker', but sometimes nothing at all...depends how lazy I am feeling
In reply to Post #14
I've seen that vid bought the tubing it won't go on its far to small think he made a mistake on the size of tubing he is using
And as for tying rig properly as I said in post i made my own i also bought ready made Korda multi rigs and they do the same there should have been a piece of tubing on rigs included as it
Lies flat on shank won't keep the d shape let's face it you have loop of material going through an eye what's stopping it going flat
So why is someone like Mike holly using tubing if it works so well without it
I've seen that vid bought the tubing it won't go on its far to small think he made a mistake on the size of tubing he is using
And as for tying rig properly as I said in post i made my own i also bought ready made Korda multi rigs and they do the same there should have been a piece of tubing on rigs included as it
Lies flat on shank won't keep the d shape let's face it you have loop of material going through an eye what's stopping it going flat
So why is someone like Mike holly using tubing if it works so well without it