Hi everyone, I'm going to be fishing a lake this year that really benefits using the boat to drop your rigs due to the amount of weed. Casting would need to be super accurate and would probably end up with lots and lots of re casts to get it right which would hamper my chances
So my question is what's the best way of getting your rigs out using the boat, the boat doesn't have a motor so you do need to row out and back . How does everyone row back to the bank without dragging your rig out of position or allowing the line to go all over the place ?
So my question is what's the best way of getting your rigs out using the boat, the boat doesn't have a motor so you do need to row out and back . How does everyone row back to the bank without dragging your rig out of position or allowing the line to go all over the place ?
In reply to Post #1
Old fashioned:
Row out each rod one at a time working from left to right or vice versa. Put a piece of foam or old teabag in the butt ring, open the bail arm, the rod in the rests with alarm turned OFF, take your end tackle out in the boat.
The foam or tea bag stops the line from coiling off the spool and ending up drifting across the lake.
Drop and repeat.
Best carried out with a mate present.
Old fashioned:
Row out each rod one at a time working from left to right or vice versa. Put a piece of foam or old teabag in the butt ring, open the bail arm, the rod in the rests with alarm turned OFF, take your end tackle out in the boat.
The foam or tea bag stops the line from coiling off the spool and ending up drifting across the lake.
Drop and repeat.
Best carried out with a mate present.
In reply to Post #1
This raises so many questions. What kind of weed? What kind of boat? What kind of venue (depth/waves, is it open to wind). Will you be fishing over/in the middle of the weed? Will you (need to) use backleads? What distances? What rigs and weights? What kind of line?
Each of these things can make a difference once you are in your boat. A gripper lead will probably give you more room for error than a round one. A fast sinking line will be a bit more forgiving on your rig compared to a suspending one. Getting them out there in a boat that's all over the place will be more difficult than in one with good drifting qualities. The height of the weed and your position in it/towards it can also make all the difference. Best to make up as you go imo, or you will end up wasting time and money on stuff you cannot now yet. I mean, even the size and location of the weed will probably be completely different from last year.
This raises so many questions. What kind of weed? What kind of boat? What kind of venue (depth/waves, is it open to wind). Will you be fishing over/in the middle of the weed? Will you (need to) use backleads? What distances? What rigs and weights? What kind of line?
Each of these things can make a difference once you are in your boat. A gripper lead will probably give you more room for error than a round one. A fast sinking line will be a bit more forgiving on your rig compared to a suspending one. Getting them out there in a boat that's all over the place will be more difficult than in one with good drifting qualities. The height of the weed and your position in it/towards it can also make all the difference. Best to make up as you go imo, or you will end up wasting time and money on stuff you cannot now yet. I mean, even the size and location of the weed will probably be completely different from last year.
In reply to Post #1
Simply put its easier with a mate or the bank to help with line lay etc. very dependant on the wind of course . Some blokes on my sindicate use short rods and boat em out with the rod with them. then try to get back in a straight line.... perhaps they use heavy leads and tighten down to them but it looks rough to me
. Line lay must be awful, they are small rowing boats by the way.
Simply put its easier with a mate or the bank to help with line lay etc. very dependant on the wind of course . Some blokes on my sindicate use short rods and boat em out with the rod with them. then try to get back in a straight line.... perhaps they use heavy leads and tighten down to them but it looks rough to me
. Line lay must be awful, they are small rowing boats by the way.
The rowing part is the killer, it can be hard enough getting decent line lay with one hand on a motor and one mending the line, specially when it's blowy. Easiest way is to get someone to hold the rod on the bank while you row out and drop. You then have to trust them to mend/sink the line and they know all your spots.
If you're on your own I'd advise a heavy lead (8oz plus) , heavy flouro leader and a neutral braid. Hopefully the braid floats as you row in and you can then mend and sink the line once you get back to the bank.
The other option is to find your spots and mark with poles from the boat, then cast to the poles. You can always go and check how it's sitting from the boat once it's out.
If you're on your own I'd advise a heavy lead (8oz plus) , heavy flouro leader and a neutral braid. Hopefully the braid floats as you row in and you can then mend and sink the line once you get back to the bank.
The other option is to find your spots and mark with poles from the boat, then cast to the poles. You can always go and check how it's sitting from the boat once it's out.
IMO
you really need a mate on the bank holding the rod up then when you get to the spot you signal or shout tighten up he then has to reel in any slack and PULL the line straight then drops the tip under the water and puts the runner on or loosens the clutch this allows you to pull any line that may have pulled you back you drop the rig let him know once its on the bottom he gently tensions to sink the line
you really need a mate on the bank holding the rod up then when you get to the spot you signal or shout tighten up he then has to reel in any slack and PULL the line straight then drops the tip under the water and puts the runner on or loosens the clutch this allows you to pull any line that may have pulled you back you drop the rig let him know once its on the bottom he gently tensions to sink the line
In reply to Post #6
Exactly like Gerry says, but i also generally take my second rod out with me in the boat, and after the first one has been dropped, head over to your second spot and then drop that one yourself and bring it in carefully as mentioned previously. Doing this method saves time, battery consumption if you are using an outboard, and also limits disturbing your swim.
Exactly like Gerry says, but i also generally take my second rod out with me in the boat, and after the first one has been dropped, head over to your second spot and then drop that one yourself and bring it in carefully as mentioned previously. Doing this method saves time, battery consumption if you are using an outboard, and also limits disturbing your swim.
Been using a boat for the last 15 years.
I've used both methods as described but as I fish on mostly my own I don't have anyone to assist usually. To this end I take the rod out in the boat, position the rig and return back. It's obviously easier with a motor as you can hold the rod with the tip in the water with one hand and feather the line out with your finger and steer the motor with the other. Prior to having an engine and using oars, I used foam or teabag in the butt ring as previously mentioned and placed the rod in a rod rest on the transom and rested the reel on my lap with the rod handle against my hip. The tip is again under the water. This way the spool was against my lap and stopped the line spooling off and the foam/teabag added just enough tension to feather the line without dragging the lead out of position. As you row back, don't try to race it, go at a nice smooth pace and take your time.
I always have a set routine from placing the rod in the boat, stepping in, casting off etc. Nothing ever changes or left to chance so everything is second nature. I even have the dog in the boat with me! Using a boat to drop rigs is a skill in itself, just like casting, using a marker float or spodding etc and needs practice to get it right.
For the OP - if your lake supplies boats for your use but only with oars it's worth considering buying a motor. Second hand they aren't dear and have a good resale value if you move on. Likewise older used lead acid batteries are easy to come by as people swap to lithium. This is how I came by my combo before moving onto another lake and buying my own boat.
I've used both methods as described but as I fish on mostly my own I don't have anyone to assist usually. To this end I take the rod out in the boat, position the rig and return back. It's obviously easier with a motor as you can hold the rod with the tip in the water with one hand and feather the line out with your finger and steer the motor with the other. Prior to having an engine and using oars, I used foam or teabag in the butt ring as previously mentioned and placed the rod in a rod rest on the transom and rested the reel on my lap with the rod handle against my hip. The tip is again under the water. This way the spool was against my lap and stopped the line spooling off and the foam/teabag added just enough tension to feather the line without dragging the lead out of position. As you row back, don't try to race it, go at a nice smooth pace and take your time.
I always have a set routine from placing the rod in the boat, stepping in, casting off etc. Nothing ever changes or left to chance so everything is second nature. I even have the dog in the boat with me! Using a boat to drop rigs is a skill in itself, just like casting, using a marker float or spodding etc and needs practice to get it right.
For the OP - if your lake supplies boats for your use but only with oars it's worth considering buying a motor. Second hand they aren't dear and have a good resale value if you move on. Likewise older used lead acid batteries are easy to come by as people swap to lithium. This is how I came by my combo before moving onto another lake and buying my own boat.
In reply to Post #1
Dont worry about getting it right the first few times, a little trial and error and you will find your way.
I use....... heavy gripper lead - check drop with scope - ridgemonkey control arm on reel - nice smooth row back .... simple as that. After your first session you will get in the swing.
Dont worry about getting it right the first few times, a little trial and error and you will find your way.
I use....... heavy gripper lead - check drop with scope - ridgemonkey control arm on reel - nice smooth row back .... simple as that. After your first session you will get in the swing.
In reply to Post #1
If you've not done a lot of fishing like this It's the old adage 'the more you do it the easier it gets', we learn by our mistakes, many scenarios that people have already replied to and factor in, it's what works best or is practical for you, you'll soon work it out
I'm the same as Neil post #8 I've also been boat fishing with and without motors for many years, I love this type of fishing especially on a large sheet of water out in the middle of the lake on a calm day drifting over a spot with gin clear water looking into the aquarium, the last bit of advice I would add when using a boat without being able to use a motor and completely on your own, become proficient at rowing using two oars rather than a single oar and paddling, it will make life far easier especially over bigger distances.
If you've not done a lot of fishing like this It's the old adage 'the more you do it the easier it gets', we learn by our mistakes, many scenarios that people have already replied to and factor in, it's what works best or is practical for you, you'll soon work it out
I'm the same as Neil post #8 I've also been boat fishing with and without motors for many years, I love this type of fishing especially on a large sheet of water out in the middle of the lake on a calm day drifting over a spot with gin clear water looking into the aquarium, the last bit of advice I would add when using a boat without being able to use a motor and completely on your own, become proficient at rowing using two oars rather than a single oar and paddling, it will make life far easier especially over bigger distances.
I find the easiest way to row in a straight line is with two short oars, positioning yourself at the front of the boat, and sculling in tandem with both at once.
If taking the rig out, rather than the rod, then a wet beer towel folded over the spool works well. Also take a bucket with lid out to put the rig in whilst rowing.
Waiting until later during the evening to sort the rods can help with line lay, as the wind often drops, making life easier.
With regards to take the rod or take the rig, both have advantages and disadvantages. H-block markers or canes can help.
Decide how much bait you want to put in and only take that amount with you in the boat. It's very easy to overdo it.
It's a far harder skill to master than bank fishing, as said below try it and you'll find your own methods.
If taking the rig out, rather than the rod, then a wet beer towel folded over the spool works well. Also take a bucket with lid out to put the rig in whilst rowing.
Waiting until later during the evening to sort the rods can help with line lay, as the wind often drops, making life easier.
With regards to take the rod or take the rig, both have advantages and disadvantages. H-block markers or canes can help.
Decide how much bait you want to put in and only take that amount with you in the boat. It's very easy to overdo it.
It's a far harder skill to master than bank fishing, as said below try it and you'll find your own methods.
In reply to Post #3
Lake is about 8acres with depths to about 7-8ft, nothing really over 50-60 yards distance wise . The lake is quite open in parts so depending on wind direction it can have a good chop on the water. ill be using braided mainline . Weed is a mix of Canadian and the thin green candy floss type no idea what it's called. Boats are smallish row boats with two oars
Lake is about 8acres with depths to about 7-8ft, nothing really over 50-60 yards distance wise . The lake is quite open in parts so depending on wind direction it can have a good chop on the water. ill be using braided mainline . Weed is a mix of Canadian and the thin green candy floss type no idea what it's called. Boats are smallish row boats with two oars
In reply to Post #12
In all honesty I would have thought dropping from the boat would be more of a hinderance on a lake that size. Rowing back and forth finding spots and dropping rigs on a smaller water will send them to ground. I would use the boat to a minimum to find and mark your spots with poles. Put your bait out from the boat then go back to the bank and cast to your poles.
In all honesty I would have thought dropping from the boat would be more of a hinderance on a lake that size. Rowing back and forth finding spots and dropping rigs on a smaller water will send them to ground. I would use the boat to a minimum to find and mark your spots with poles. Put your bait out from the boat then go back to the bank and cast to your poles.
In reply to Post #13
the weed is like nothing I've ever seen before and spots are small so it's what's worse, the boat or possible recasting but I'll be trying both to see what works what doesn't etc
Any recommendations on marker poles, the fox ones are way out my price range £400 for 3, it's nearly the same price as my syndicate fees haha
the weed is like nothing I've ever seen before and spots are small so it's what's worse, the boat or possible recasting but I'll be trying both to see what works what doesn't etc
Any recommendations on marker poles, the fox ones are way out my price range £400 for 3, it's nearly the same price as my syndicate fees haha
In reply to Post #14
If it's only up to 8 foot deep I'd use bamboo canes.
If it's only up to 8 foot deep I'd use bamboo canes.