HI
I'm currently on my syndicate and have managed a few small ones but have unearthed a problem I've never had before.
I've cast out on my right hand rod about 40 yards right of my spot.
I've had 4 runs now landed 3,and when I get the initial indications which have been finicky(no screamers) I've picked the rod up to strike and the fish has been 40 yards left in my left hand rod spot.
The question being with so little indication how has the fish moved so far.
I'm using RX+s and have swapped over alarms to see if 1 was having an issue but it's done it also with that one too, alarms are set to 2 off max sensitivity also.
Looking for an answer to this mystery.
I'm currently on my syndicate and have managed a few small ones but have unearthed a problem I've never had before.
I've cast out on my right hand rod about 40 yards right of my spot.
I've had 4 runs now landed 3,and when I get the initial indications which have been finicky(no screamers) I've picked the rod up to strike and the fish has been 40 yards left in my left hand rod spot.
The question being with so little indication how has the fish moved so far.
I'm using RX+s and have swapped over alarms to see if 1 was having an issue but it's done it also with that one too, alarms are set to 2 off max sensitivity also.
Looking for an answer to this mystery.
Running rig with a light lead, notorious for it if that is what you are using.
Also clipped up too tight with indicator at the top and the fish can run sideways and keep an equalibrium on the line tension and does not allow the indicator to drop or the line to pull out of the clip is also another cause.
Slacklining, I never do it but I know a couple of lads who do and when they strike, the fish can be anywhere in front of them.
Also clipped up too tight with indicator at the top and the fish can run sideways and keep an equalibrium on the line tension and does not allow the indicator to drop or the line to pull out of the clip is also another cause.
Slacklining, I never do it but I know a couple of lads who do and when they strike, the fish can be anywhere in front of them.
In reply to Post #2
I forgot to mention lead clipped 3 oz rig with fox dumpy bobbins
I forgot to mention lead clipped 3 oz rig with fox dumpy bobbins
In reply to Post #1
There's a few things you can try fish the lead clip upside down with the lead threaded onto the line, then placed into the clip with no tail rubber, when the fish picks up the clip allows the lead to fall away onto the leader / line.
As said below also there needs to be a good drop in indicator and a clip to create a better angle for the indicator to move up and down.
You could go tight lines and springers - but as I always back lead this isn't something I have experience of.
It happened on a lake I fish where it went from screamers to kiting fish - and collectively sorted it - but as with all things a few months on and the problem changes so the solution becomes different. The above is around thinking about your particular situation. I fished with a guy who got so many more liners than I ever did - but I caught about the same as him, it made me realise his set up was far more accurate than mine, and hence the importance of balancing the indicator to the situation. I now enjoy that same annoying beeps of every farting perch but also know that I will get the earliest possible indication of a bite.
If you don't get liners, fairly regularly (even with back leads) you are not fishing effectively.
There's a few things you can try fish the lead clip upside down with the lead threaded onto the line, then placed into the clip with no tail rubber, when the fish picks up the clip allows the lead to fall away onto the leader / line.
As said below also there needs to be a good drop in indicator and a clip to create a better angle for the indicator to move up and down.
You could go tight lines and springers - but as I always back lead this isn't something I have experience of.
It happened on a lake I fish where it went from screamers to kiting fish - and collectively sorted it - but as with all things a few months on and the problem changes so the solution becomes different. The above is around thinking about your particular situation. I fished with a guy who got so many more liners than I ever did - but I caught about the same as him, it made me realise his set up was far more accurate than mine, and hence the importance of balancing the indicator to the situation. I now enjoy that same annoying beeps of every farting perch but also know that I will get the earliest possible indication of a bite.
If you don't get liners, fairly regularly (even with back leads) you are not fishing effectively.
Agree with some of the below, fish kiting on a high line has long been offered as an explanation.
Unless fishing at range or to snags, I fish fairly slack with the bobbin hanging on its chain.
Unless fishing at range or to snags, I fish fairly slack with the bobbin hanging on its chain.
Keep the 3oz lead but try a running rig with a slack(ish) line and your bobbins hanging low. You will get an indication whichever way the fish moves.
Delkims 
In reply to Post #1
I have experienced this.
Some fish are cute, or some just sluggish, and somehow manage to simply kite on a tight line in a semi circle arc without giving more than a bleep or two. Even using the below method, I had one bite that shifted a crazy amount of water, on just a couple of bleeps!
I always fish semi slack lines with light to mid weight home made carbon clip ( elstow type ) bobbins on.
I have found the indication better as whatever little movement happens, alerts me, and I fish mostly days, you can watch the lines entering the water, rod tips, before it may drop off, or scream off.
As people have said previously, once you suss your preferred way of getting plenty of bites, the fish habits change/angling pressure changes and you have to re assess things.
I have experienced this.
Some fish are cute, or some just sluggish, and somehow manage to simply kite on a tight line in a semi circle arc without giving more than a bleep or two. Even using the below method, I had one bite that shifted a crazy amount of water, on just a couple of bleeps!
I always fish semi slack lines with light to mid weight home made carbon clip ( elstow type ) bobbins on.
I have found the indication better as whatever little movement happens, alerts me, and I fish mostly days, you can watch the lines entering the water, rod tips, before it may drop off, or scream off.
As people have said previously, once you suss your preferred way of getting plenty of bites, the fish habits change/angling pressure changes and you have to re assess things.
In reply to Post #1
Are you using back leads?
Are you using back leads?
In reply to Post #1
If it pulls line through your alarms ( going away from you) it will trigger them, same as if it swims toward you until the bobbin bottoms out, that's how alarms work. Sounds to me when they are hooked they are going to that spot for a reason, snag or safety and not pulling any more line off the spool etc.
Try winding down VERY tight to the lead and set your clutch accordingly so you are nearly dislodging the lead and then see what happens
If it pulls line through your alarms ( going away from you) it will trigger them, same as if it swims toward you until the bobbin bottoms out, that's how alarms work. Sounds to me when they are hooked they are going to that spot for a reason, snag or safety and not pulling any more line off the spool etc.
Try winding down VERY tight to the lead and set your clutch accordingly so you are nearly dislodging the lead and then see what happens
In reply to Post #3
The number of times I used to have this happen to me, it was a case of always watching the line and indicator, hitting single bleeps.
I found the simple answer was ditch the semi-fixed leads, and go to running leads on slack lines.
Have your indicators hanging straight down with no tension on the line which should be touching every rod ring, and dropping straight down from the rod tip.
The best way I found to get it as slack as possible, was cast out and tighten up to the lead, very gently reeling until until you feel it. Turn on the free spool or baitrunner, and with the rod tip under water take your rod to the buzzer paying line off the reel. Put your rod on the buzzer, and give some more slack, then put your indicator on, it should be hanging very low, pull more line off the reel until the indicator is straight down. It may start to lift as the line settles, as it does keep pulling more line off the reel so it drops down again. When it has eventually totally settled, the line should be as said, touching every rod ring and dropping straight down from the tip.
The main reason for NOT using slack line is simply undertow or currents may not allow it, I've used them to around 80metres with no problems, and on big open waters like Nazeing Meads on the lagoons when there was no undertow.
The number of times I used to have this happen to me, it was a case of always watching the line and indicator, hitting single bleeps.
I found the simple answer was ditch the semi-fixed leads, and go to running leads on slack lines.
Have your indicators hanging straight down with no tension on the line which should be touching every rod ring, and dropping straight down from the rod tip.
The best way I found to get it as slack as possible, was cast out and tighten up to the lead, very gently reeling until until you feel it. Turn on the free spool or baitrunner, and with the rod tip under water take your rod to the buzzer paying line off the reel. Put your rod on the buzzer, and give some more slack, then put your indicator on, it should be hanging very low, pull more line off the reel until the indicator is straight down. It may start to lift as the line settles, as it does keep pulling more line off the reel so it drops down again. When it has eventually totally settled, the line should be as said, touching every rod ring and dropping straight down from the tip.
The main reason for NOT using slack line is simply undertow or currents may not allow it, I've used them to around 80metres with no problems, and on big open waters like Nazeing Meads on the lagoons when there was no undertow.
In reply to Post #1
Try really light bobbins. You won't get an indication on a roller type alarm if the line doesn't move, a light bobbin and your rod tips pointed at the lead will give the least resistance therefore allowing more line movement.
Forget really slack lines that will make it worse.
Try really light bobbins. You won't get an indication on a roller type alarm if the line doesn't move, a light bobbin and your rod tips pointed at the lead will give the least resistance therefore allowing more line movement.
Forget really slack lines that will make it worse.
In reply to Post #12
While Chanmenie (Mark) and I have differing advice, I know we both have success on our different methods, (we are on the same syndicate) but pointing your rods at the end tackle is important.
The dont fish slack line advice is relevant as well, IF you fish semi-fixed leads.
If you want to fish a true running lead slack line is a must.
There are times when undertow or current may not allow you to fish slack, the run ring can be fished with a tight line, effectively making it a Bolt rig as per Kevin Maddocks in Carp Fever.
(For some reason, without looking, page 72 comes to mind)
While Chanmenie (Mark) and I have differing advice, I know we both have success on our different methods, (we are on the same syndicate) but pointing your rods at the end tackle is important.
The dont fish slack line advice is relevant as well, IF you fish semi-fixed leads.
If you want to fish a true running lead slack line is a must.
There are times when undertow or current may not allow you to fish slack, the run ring can be fished with a tight line, effectively making it a Bolt rig as per Kevin Maddocks in Carp Fever.
(For some reason, without looking, page 72 comes to mind)
In reply to Post #1
As has been suggested – Running Rig with a heavy ish Lead to form a “Anchor Point” , any movement you get will be a forward take, to make sure you pick up even the slightest movement I would be using Springer type Indicator every time. Adding weights does not vary (Gravity does not change) but with a tension type indicator- forward movement the tension increases, backward movement tension unloads = more grip = more “Bleeps”, you miss nothing.
I would not be bothering with Back Leads either - even on a tight line around 1/3rd of your line is on the deck back from your rig position (Ask any diver who has seen a rig on the bottom or just measure the angle of your line from the Rod tip, it never lines up to the rig position)
As has been suggested – Running Rig with a heavy ish Lead to form a “Anchor Point” , any movement you get will be a forward take, to make sure you pick up even the slightest movement I would be using Springer type Indicator every time. Adding weights does not vary (Gravity does not change) but with a tension type indicator- forward movement the tension increases, backward movement tension unloads = more grip = more “Bleeps”, you miss nothing.
I would not be bothering with Back Leads either - even on a tight line around 1/3rd of your line is on the deck back from your rig position (Ask any diver who has seen a rig on the bottom or just measure the angle of your line from the Rod tip, it never lines up to the rig position)
IMO you get way more indication using a light bobbin on a slack/slackish line. I spent several days testing different setups and deliberately getting the moorhens and coots to pick up the bait (no hook involved) and the lightest bobbin came out tops no matter what lead arrangement was used. The bobbin will hit the top before the line has tightened. If for some reason you have to fish a tight line then a springer setup comes out tops.