This is most likely a stupid question but I have some 12ft free spirit s lites 3.5tc I like the plain black look of them, apart from the little silver bits above, below the reel seats and the silver butt cap.
I was just wondering if there is any black paint I can buy to paint these black to match the rods or do I have to send them off to a rod builder to change it all. I wouldn't mind painting themselves I'm very good at painting but just don't want to get something that will either wash off or just fall off in the rain
Thanks I'm advance
I was just wondering if there is any black paint I can buy to paint these black to match the rods or do I have to send them off to a rod builder to change it all. I wouldn't mind painting themselves I'm very good at painting but just don't want to get something that will either wash off or just fall off in the rain
Thanks I'm advance
In reply to Post #1
Have you thought about using carbon effect vinyl tape/sheets I've had some good results on reel seats that we're black but have polished through whilst being in holdals, I buy off cuts what the car custom lads use of eBay simply get the area warm with either a fan heater or hairdryer and apply and remove the excess with a sharp blade and simple to remove if you change your mind later
Have you thought about using carbon effect vinyl tape/sheets I've had some good results on reel seats that we're black but have polished through whilst being in holdals, I buy off cuts what the car custom lads use of eBay simply get the area warm with either a fan heater or hairdryer and apply and remove the excess with a sharp blade and simple to remove if you change your mind later
In reply to Post #1
If you do go for paint use an etching primer to improve adhesion.
Tape sounds a good idea though.
If you do go for paint use an etching primer to improve adhesion.
Tape sounds a good idea though.
Personally I would go the tape route also. Even with A Etch primer, it would still easily chip/ scratch.
If the tape started to lift, just remove and replace. I did this on my old scopes with black electrical tape trimmed down. Just renewed it probably once a year.
If you know anyone who does sign writing for vehicles better still, as the vinyl is more apply able, especially with a little heat.
If the tape started to lift, just remove and replace. I did this on my old scopes with black electrical tape trimmed down. Just renewed it probably once a year.
If you know anyone who does sign writing for vehicles better still, as the vinyl is more apply able, especially with a little heat.
In reply to Post #1
Going forward,
The black painted reel seats on my daiwa magnum tapers wore away and figured out it was the 2 sections of the rod rubbing together that was causing it.
I've since figured out that Nash do a chod rig cover set....the bigger part of it velcroes over your reel seat in transit to stop it happening again
Going forward,
The black painted reel seats on my daiwa magnum tapers wore away and figured out it was the 2 sections of the rod rubbing together that was causing it.
I've since figured out that Nash do a chod rig cover set....the bigger part of it velcroes over your reel seat in transit to stop it happening again
Tape sounds like a good idea, when you put it on does it look cheap? Or does it look alright. Plus does it look good? Don't want it to look nasty would rather send it to a rod builder to do if it don't look right
In reply to Post #6
Personally I would go for 2 component lacquer. I live in the Netherlands and we sell spray cans in which the 2 components are present. You have to put in a plug at the bottom, this punctures the 'wall' that seperates both parts within the can. Then shake the can for about 2 minutes to get the 2 parts to mix properly.
This is a very durable solution. Plus I would make sure both rod parts don't rub together.
Personally I would go for 2 component lacquer. I live in the Netherlands and we sell spray cans in which the 2 components are present. You have to put in a plug at the bottom, this punctures the 'wall' that seperates both parts within the can. Then shake the can for about 2 minutes to get the 2 parts to mix properly.
This is a very durable solution. Plus I would make sure both rod parts don't rub together.
In reply to Post #6
A sheet will cost between £3 & £5 or more depending on the size with practice you can get fantastic results that's the best way to put it, I once did some optonics which was fun NOT the secret I've found is to get it warm and apply under tension and make sure there's no grease from your hands, if your not happy with the results just simply warm back up and peel off ,I've done kids Xbox controllers loads off stuff. There's stuff on YouTube of it being used I got the idea from doing motor bike bits
A sheet will cost between £3 & £5 or more depending on the size with practice you can get fantastic results that's the best way to put it, I once did some optonics which was fun NOT the secret I've found is to get it warm and apply under tension and make sure there's no grease from your hands, if your not happy with the results just simply warm back up and peel off ,I've done kids Xbox controllers loads off stuff. There's stuff on YouTube of it being used I got the idea from doing motor bike bits
In reply to Post #8
Presumably that's similar or the same as a car pvc wrap?
I would think if it's good enough for supercar bumpers then it should be ok for a fishing rod.
Presumably that's similar or the same as a car pvc wrap?
I would think if it's good enough for supercar bumpers then it should be ok for a fishing rod.
In reply to Post #9
Yep that's the stuff
Yep that's the stuff
In reply to Post #1
Pretty sure they're stainless, so etch primer as a matter of course if painting.
The butt cap you can replace with a delrin one for a couple of quid.
Pretty sure they're stainless, so etch primer as a matter of course if painting.
The butt cap you can replace with a delrin one for a couple of quid.
In reply to Post #11
Is it easy enough to replace them bud?
Is it easy enough to replace them bud?
In reply to Post #1
If you do decide to go down the paint route you may consider Hammerite Smooth black, no primer needed and with a very small artist type brush you can get into small area's, very good finish.
If you do decide to go down the paint route you may consider Hammerite Smooth black, no primer needed and with a very small artist type brush you can get into small area's, very good finish.
In reply to Post #13
Stainless is a bit sketchy with paint, I'd always use an appropriate primer now after having a few "direct to metal" type paints flake/peel away. I know at least once it was hammerite that peeled off, not sure which type tho
Stainless is a bit sketchy with paint, I'd always use an appropriate primer now after having a few "direct to metal" type paints flake/peel away. I know at least once it was hammerite that peeled off, not sure which type tho
In reply to Post #14
Personally I would go for a good primer and a 2 K lacquer. Hammerite wouldn't be my first choice.
Personally I would go for a good primer and a 2 K lacquer. Hammerite wouldn't be my first choice.